Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 35 of 83)

BRAISING POT ROAST

Back on the block, in our family, like almost everywhere else in America, Sunday was pot roast day.  And my mother would make it the usual way via baking or roasting in the oven. Lately, thinking back on those days, I started experimenting with pot roast. And one of the most successful method was braising instead of roasting. I subsequently discovered that braising made the pot roast juicier, more moist and less dry than the baking method.  It has become our favorite way of preparing a roast.

In the recipe given I use a chuck roast like my mother did back in Spanish Harlem. You do not need a fancy cut of meat in  this. Braising renders the meat succulent, whether it’s chuck roast or top loin roast. So, if you’re money conscious, use the good ole’ chuck meat. If you wanna splurge on a choice cut, that’s up to you.

Also note that this braising recipe can also be used for lamb, pork or fowl. It’s an all-purpose recipe, and that’s it’s advantage. You can use it with whatever meat you like. Though I do not thank it would work that well for fish. But, if you want to try it with fish and prove me wrong, go right ahead. That’s the beauty of experimenting with cooking: you can really come up with some great results (or not). And if not, keep at it. It will always serve you well.

BRAISING POT ROAST

Ingredients:

1 beef chuck roast, about 3 pounds
Salt to taste
Fresh ground pepper to taste
Oregano, fresh or dried to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2-3 cups diced cabbage or celery
2-3 carrots, cut into rounds
½ cup dry red wine
1 cup chicken broth
½ cup tomato sauce
Bunch fresh rosemary or tarragon

Instructions:

  1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  2.  Prick the meat all over with a fork or knife. Season on all sides with the salt, pepper, and oregano, rubbing the seasoning into the meat with the flat of the hand. Drizzle with the olive oil
  3.  Place the roast in a large pot or Dutch oven. Add and scatter all over with the cabbage and carrots. Add wine and chicken broth mixed with the tomato sauce. Top with a bunch of fresh rosemary or tarragon. Bring to boil, cover, lower heat to low-medium and simmer for an hour or so or until meat is tender. Transfer to a serving platter and serve.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

FRIJOLES CON TOCINO Y ARROZ (Columbian Rice and Beans)

As you may have noticed in prior posts, in my culture rice and beans reign supreme.  It’s in our DNA. Thus, I am always on the lookout for requisite good recipes.  In Columbia they have their own method of  preparing this consummate dish. My Columbian brethren add plantains to the dish. Something we never do in Nuyorican cooking. We may have plantains as a side dish, either green plantains (tostones) or ripe plantains (platanos dulce).

Let me add that in Columbia, when making this dish, they use a type of bean called Bola. This is a red ball bean with a white eye.  Admittedly, they are hard to find, even on the East Coast.  I’m sure you can find them online.  I’ve discovered that red kidney bean do just as well in the recipe, and are quite tasty.  Also,  this recipe contains slab bacon, which gives it that added flavor.
Disfruté.

FRIJOLES CON TOCINO Y ARROZ
(Columbian-Style Rice and Beans)

Ingredients:

1 pound dried red kidney beans
8 ounces slab bacon, cut into ¼-inch cubes
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 medium-ripe plantains, cut into ½-inch cubes
¼ cup chopped cilantro
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
Salt to taste

Instructions:

1. Rinse and pick through beans. Then soak overnight in a large pot of water (the pot does not need to be covered unless you prefer it that way).
2. Next day, rinse soaked beans well with cold water. Place in a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, cover with water (for at least 2 inches) and bring to a boil. Lower heat to low- medium, cover, and cook for two hours.
3. In a skillet, sauté bacon (no oil is needed), onion, plantains, cilantro, garlic and salt. Add to beans. Continue cooking, covered, at low-medium heat for about 45 minutes or until beans are tender. Stir occasionally to make sure than beans do not stick to pot. When completely cooked, liquid should have the consistency of a thick soup. You can serve the beans and rice separately, or beans over the rice.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

SESAME TOFU

I’m always on the lookout for good tofu recipes. Tofu, or bean curd, is something that I discovered in my young manhood. And I’ve been  a fan ever since. To me, Tofu by itself is tasteless. Yet the beauty of it is that it acquires the flavor of whatever seasoning you use. This is its crowning glory. And the recipe given below exemplifies that. It’s nothing less, or more, than tofu marinated in soy sauce and herbs and, then, for that added touch, sesame is added to the mix. You can’t go wrong with this one. Serve over steamed rice or noddles, this is a winner, In this case, I served the marinated tofu over Japanese green tea noodles, And it was delicious. It makes for a great vegetarian dinner. And even if you’re not a vegetarian, you’ll appreciate the mix of flavors this dish brings up.

Let me add that the Japanese green noodles I find in the stores come in  a 22.57 ounce package. If you can find a 12.8-ounce package then you’re set. Otherwise use half of the 22.57 ounce package for a dinner for four.

SESAME TOFU

Ingredients:

1 pound package (14-ounce) of extra firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1/3 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and mince
1 tablespoon ginger root, peeled and grated
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup sesame seeds
2 tablespoons peanut oil

Instructions:

  1. In a medium bowl, combine tofu, soy sauce, garlic, ginger root and sugar. Stir to mix. Marinate or 2 hours.
  2.  Remove tofu from marinade and roll in sesame seeds.
  3.  In a wok or fry pan, heat peanut oil on medium heat. Add tofu along with marinade and cook tofu for 4 minutes.
  4.  Serve over steamed rice or noodles.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

In 1940 a little known cookbook came out, Hors d’Oeuvre and Canapés, by the incomparable James Bard. Among its recipes was one for stuffed mushrooms. In 1940 American, stuffed mushrooms were an oddity. To most it must have seemed totally alien. Today, stuffed mushrooms are everywhere.  Yes, we have come along way. Below is my recipe for this venerable dish. I like to serve them with tostones, or deep-fried plantains, as a meal in itself, not just an appetizer. For a good tostones recipe see my post of 10/16/16.

For the recipe given you can used portobello or white button mushrooms. Most recipes call for baby mushrooms for stuffing. I did a combination of portobello and white, and not all were baby mushrooms. So I ended up with some large stuffed mushrooms. It still came out alright.

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
12 mushrooms or more, depending on how many people to feed
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
¼ cup breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
1 tablespoon freshly chopped thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Wash mushrooms under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Remove stems from mushrooms and chop stems. Set aside.
3. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add chopped mushroom stems and cook until most of the moisture is out, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the breadcrumbs to bind them, 3 minutes.  Add wine and let it cook until it almost evaporates. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and let cool slightly
4. In a large bowl, mix together mushroom stem mixture, cream cheese, parsley and thyme. Fill mushroom caps with filling and place in a baking pan or dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and bake until mushrooms are soft and tops are golden, about twenty minutes.

 

BECHAMEL SAUCE

Another spur of the moment dinner. We had some leftover risotto, and decided to have it with organic turkey burgers that we had on hand.  But, to make it more interesting, I decided to make a Béchamal Sauce to go with the turkey burgers. It came out great.

Béchamel Sauce is basically a white sauce. Except that I add to it onions and garlic. The sauce given is a quickly version that I improvised—I add one envelope of instant chicken broth. The instant chicken broth I use is the Goya band. Why? It has a lesser salt content than the other brands. If you have liquid chicken broth on hand, you may use that according to the taste and texture you want in the sauce. My improvised version makes a velvety béchamel sauce.

BÉÉCHAMEL SAUCE

Ingredients:

¼ cup (½ stick butter)
1 small onion, peeled and chopped (¼ cup)
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
3 tablespoons flour
1 envelope instant chicken broth
¼ teaspoon pepper
2 cups milk

Instructions:

1. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and sauté until soft.
2. Stir in the flour, instant chicken broth and pepper. With a wire whisk, cook, stirring constantly, until mixture bubbles, about 3 minutes.
3. Stir in milk and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce thicken and bubbles, about 3 minutes.
Yield:   2 cups.

 

 

 

 

IN MEMORIAM: VINCENT VAN ZANDT

In Memoriam:

Vincent Van Zandt

No post on recipes or drink. This is more personal, and more timely.

Vincent Van Zandt was my student. I called him one of My Tigers (the other being Reggie Zephyrin). Vinnie and I went back a long time. I remember when he first entered the Tuesday/Thursday class at Alan Lee’s Chinese Kung-Fu Wu-Su Association. What struck me about Vinnie was how knowledgeable he was about Kung Fu and the martial arts in general. This was someone who had thoroughly researched the topic before he committed to the training. I found this both satisfying and endearing.

When Vinnie joined the school (which we refer to as The Temple), back in the 90s, it was a different scene back then. We were just transitioning to a new outlook and new way of thinking. When I first joined the Temple in 1973, it was a whole different school. As fellow Masters Robert Thomas and Paul Johnson will affirm, it was another universe. Honestly, it was mainly comprised of kids from the ghetto, be it New York or Newark, where we had our Jersey school. We just wanted to learn how to fight, and termed it self-defense. It was a tough bunch. At that time we were not interested in learning the Health/Life aspects of the system; such things as meditation, concentration, breathing exercises for longevity training. We had some exercises, like 8 Silk Weaving, an exercise meant to strengthen the internal organs, but that was about it. Grandmaster Lee did not, as he does now, give extensive Chi-Kung/Qi Gong lessons. Those came later.

Vinnie and his fellows were the vanguard of the new group geared toward a more holistic system. And in this Vinnie excelled. Not only was he a good fighter on the floor who, being a little guy, could still hold his own against anyone. More than that, he was a thinking man’s fighter. Those come only once in a generation. That’s why immediately I focused on him and Reggie, from the same group. Reggie was, and is, the lethal artist. He can be a tiger, or a crane. His movements are fluid and flowing, but when he strikes home you feel it if you are on the receiving end. Vinnie was the one who sought out the weak spots, who compensated brute force for definite pin-point accuracy. And his mind soaked up martial knowledge like a sponge. He would come across some technique in a book, or journal, or some arcane missive or even an old Kung-Fu movie and he would incorporate it into his training, meshing it with our own system.

When Master Lee gave his lectures on the Sunday of each month, you couldn’t miss it when Vinnie would pepper the Grandmaster with some question or theory as to the art. And the Grandmaster would respond diligently, carefully, while we all listened. Later I would ask Vinnie, “Where did you get that?” And he would reply, almost nonchalantly, “Oh, I just came across this old book, and it reminded me of something Mr. Lee had said.” And he was so unassuming in his response. And I would go back and start researching the stuff myself.

That’s what I will miss about Vinnie. That inquisitive mind.

I must also mention that Vinnie was a loner. We knew he worked as a case worker, and he would check out other martial arts venues be it Karate, Kung-Fu or other, but he was not the rah-rah well-met hail fellow type. He could keep his distance. We knew he had a brother and sister. The brother came to our demonstrations a couple of times. I do recall he also came with Vinnie to one of our Temple dinners. I remember him as a true gentlemen, well-informed and polite. We never saw his sister at the Temple, thus I cannot comment on her perspective. But we know she was the one who found Vinnie at his place when he had passed on.

And this is another thing about Vinnie. His humanity. As has been told to us, Vinnie took his job seriously, and to heart. He kept seeing his clients, even at the height of this pandemic, regarding them before himself. He became ill during this time. Whether it was from Covid-19 or something else, we cannot be sure. We do not know. But we know that his supervisor told him go home and rest.  Which he did. Yet it was like Vinnie to consider others before himself. That was the type of man that he was.

We at the school are grieving. Vinnie is the first death the Temple has had at this time.   And from Master Lee on down, we feel it acutely. One death is too many. But when we lose someone of Vinnie’s caliber, it hurts, and it hurts a lot.

To Vinnie’s family we send our deepest condolences. For ourselves, we mourn.

I can only say, Goodbye, my brother, one of my tigers. We shall meet again in the hereafter, and we shall compare notes and techniques again, and laugh when it works, and laugh when it doesn’t.

Till then, you’ll be forever in our thoughts. And you will be with us till the end of time.

Oswald Rivera

SOPA DE HABICHUELAS CON SALCHICHA (BEAN AND SAUSAGE STEW)

Due to the Covid-19 virus we have stocked up on beans. By that, I mean the dried variety. The are cheap, still plentiful and a healthy food source. Thus we’re always on the lookout for a creative way to use legumes (fancy name for beans). In this effort, beans and sausage are incorporated into a stew. For the dish I used white Northern beans. But you can also try it with red beans, black beans, chickpeas (garbanzos), black eye peas, and lentils. It s a multi-task recipe. Add a good crusty loaf of bread and some dry red or white wine to wash it down, and you have an unforgettable meal.

For a Nuyorican meal one would use the spicy chorizo sausage so beloved in our culture. But you’re not limited. You can use whatever sausage you prefer, be it sweet Italian sausage, French Andoille, kielbasa, even turkey or  chicken sausage. Holly and I came across a wild mushroom sausage with Italian herbs. It peaked our interest.  And you know what? It came out scrumptious. So if you come across something unique, don’t be afraid to experiment. That’s what cooking’s all about.

Let me add that you can use canned beans, if that’s what you want. The recipe won’t take as long but, honestly, it won’t taste the same; and it’ll be a whole different recipe. If you’re using the carrots, you may have to parboil them before adding them to the cooked sausage, along with  the canned beans (and their liquid). And you may have to add more liquid for the soup content. Lots of luck.

SOPA DE HABICHUELAS CON SALCHICHA
(Bean and Sausage Stew)

Ingredients:

2 table spoons olive oil
1 pound sausage, sliced ¾-inch thick
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 medium carrots, diced
1 onion, peeled and sliced into rings
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 pound dried Great Northern  beans, rinsed and picked through
Salt taste
3 sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
2 large rosemary sprigs or ½ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper or more to taste

Instructions:

1. Heat oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add sausage and brown until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate, and set aside.
2. Add the tomato paste and cumin to the pot. Cook, stirring, until dark golden, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables had softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the beans, 8 cups water, salt, thyme, rosemary and bay leaf. Turn the heat up to high and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to low and simmer gently until the beans are tender, about 2 hours. Stir in the vinegar and pepper. Ladle into warm serving bowls and served drizzle with additional vinegar and olive oil, if desired.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

 

 

 

HERBED PORK CHOPS

This is the easiest  pork chop recipe I know. Preparation is quick. It’s the braising/steaming factor that takes time, about 45  minutes. In the interim you can be busy making a side dish such as rice or potatoes, or a vegetable. Once it’s done, you’ll love it. Also, this recipe is healthier, no deep frying or roasting in oil or fats.

I’m sure you can also prepared this dish with lamb chops, if that is your desire. Either way, it’s a winner.

HERBED PORK CHOPS

Ingredients:

4 loin pork chops, about 1-inch thick
1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage or 1 teaspoon dried
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup water
½ cup dry white wine

Instructions:

1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a small cup, saucer plate, or cutting board, mix rosemary, sage, garlic, salt and pepper. Rub the pork chops thoroughly with the mixture.
3. Place the chops in a large greased skillet, add the water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer on medium-low heat until all the water has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Remove the cover and brown chops in their own fat.
4. Add the wine and cook about 1 minute, turning the chops occasionally. The wine should be almost evaporated before serving.
Yield:  servings.

 

 

 

EGGPLANT AU GRATIN

Once in a while I have to go back to classical French cooking. I was not trained in French cuisine. I am a gourmand not a gourmet. What I learned from cooking, I did from experience, coming from a Latino culture where good food and drink is paramount. So, I enjoy dabbling in the French cannon with its rich sauces and elegant inspired creations. Within this vein, one of my favorite dishes is eggplant au gratin. I love this eggplant and mushroom combination replete with cream and butter and delicate spices. This is a special dish for a special occasion. Oh, what the hell, for any occasion where you want something out of the ordinary. During this time of pandemic, what better way to affirm the joy of living and eating well.

Note that for this dish, you can use whatever mushroom desired. I use a combination of white button mushrooms and portobello. But I’m sure the dish will go well with shiitaki, crimini, chanterelle, porcini, whatever. I do insist on fresh mushrooms. This time around the canned variety just won’t cut it. I’m not being elitist, just practical.

EGGPLANT AU GRATIN

Ingredients:

1 pound eggplant
Salt to taste
½ pound fresh mushrooms
Juice of ½ lemon
1½ tablespoons flour
½ cup milk
¼ cup heavy cream
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Few drops of Tabasco Sauce
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
3 Tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 425º.
  2.  Peel eggplant and cut into 1-inch cubes, more or less. Drop cubes into boiling salted water and cook about 5 minutes or just until done. Drain well.
  3.  Meanwhile, slice mushrooms. You should have about 3 cups. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add mushroom slices. Sprinkle with salt and about 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Cook, stirring, until wilted and juices come out. Continue cooking until liquid evaporates. Set aide.
  4.  Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in a large saucepan. Add flour, stirring with wire whisk. Add milk and cream, stirring rapidly with whisk. When blended and smooth, add salt and pepper to taste, remaining lemon juice, nutmeg and Tabasco to taste. Stir in mushrooms and eggplant. Stir in egg. Spoon mixture into baking dish (preferably 8X10″ pie plate or cast-iron). Sprinkle with a mixture of bread crumbs and cheese. Dot with tablespoon butter.
  5.  Bake for 30-40 minutes, and then brown under broiler for a couple of minutes.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

ISFANAKH MUTAJAN

This dish is nothing more than lightly boiled spinach seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. But once you taste it, you”ll think it’s manna from heaven. The recipe is from my second cookbook,  The Pharaoh’s Feast (Four Walls Eight Windows). Published in the UK under the title, Feasting with the Ancestors. The title says it all. It’s a compendium of cooking throughout the ages and how it changed our world view. 110 simple recipes starting from the dawn of time to the present. The Arabic section of the book is particularly interesting. While in medieval times, western man was dining on rancid mutton and half cooked vegetables, in  the Persian Empire they were dining on truffles from the Arabian Desert, cakes from Egypt, steamed couscous from Baghdad, and savories cooked with spices from India and China

Throughout this time, one gourmet reigns supreme, al-Baghdadi (the whole name is Muhammad ibn al-Hassan ibn Muhammad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi).  His cookbook, dating from the 13th century, defined Persian cooking.  The problem with al-Baghdadi is that his recipes are, by and large, highly complex in terms of the spices used. There are recipes which include sumac, taro, murri, and coriander juice.  So, it was great to come across this offering which doesn’t go to town with numerous ingredients and cooking techniques.  al-Baghdadi  put this dish under the heading of “relishes.”  It’s simple and delicious. For a vegetarian, this is the best dish you’ll have. And if you’re not a vegetarian,  you”ll savor it just as much.

My friends, eat like your a sultan tonight. The accompaniment to this dish is rice or couscous. I served it with pilaf rice. But whatever side dish you use, this simple spinach dish will be unforgettable.

ISFANAKH MUTAJAN

Ingredients:

2 to 2½ pounds spinach, stems removed, washed, drained, and chopped
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Instructions:

  1. Parboil the spinach for 1 to 2 minutes in a large pan of boiling salted water. Drain and squeeze dry.
  2.  Stir in the sesame oil, add the garlic, and mix.
  3.  Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with the cumin, coriander, and stir to mix.
  4.  Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.
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