Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

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WHITE PEPPERCORN SAUCE

We are all familiar with black pepper, which come from black peppercorns, naturally. The same with white pepper. There are also green peppercorns (I have a wonderful Green Peppercorn and Cream Sauce recipe in my post of 05/10/18). Each has its own fragrance  and flavor. And a sauce of white peppercorns and butter is far and away one of the best. White pepper is milder than black pepper and gives food its own accent. I like it over seafood. It particularly goes well with salmon, one of the more delicate of fish. A rich, heavy sauce will overwhelm its taste, whereas a white pepper sauce will  enhance it tremendously. So, here it is, salmon fillets, or steaks, in a white peppercorn sauce.

Let me state that this sauce goes well over vegetables, not just seafood. Some even like it with pork chops, lamb chops or steaks. Again, my preference is with salmon. As they say, it’s a marriage made in heaven—and the sauce is so easy to make. In the recipe given below, I paired it with Spanish yellow rice. I’m sure that fries or a baked potato will do just as well.

WHITE PEPPERCORN SAUCE

Ingredients:

4 salmon fillets, about 6-8 oz. each. or 4 fish steaks (1½ pounds)
1 teaspoon white peppercorns (more or less to taste)
½ cup butter, softened
¼ teaspoon tarragon
1½ teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. Wash salmon fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  3. Crush the peppercorns using a mortar and pestle.
  4.  In a small bowl, blend crushed peppercorns with the other ingredients to make the sauce
  5.  Place salmon in an ovenproof dish, drizzle with the sauce and bake for 15-20 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork; or you can broil the fish 4 to 6 minutes.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

TOFU CON CHILI Y GANDULES

I’m always experimenting with unique tofu recipes. The one I came up with today could be categorized as a fusion Nuyorican dish, Tofu con chili y Gandules. Basically it’s tofu spiced with chili and coupled with green pigeon peas or what we call gandules, a legume very popular in our cuisine.  For this dish I used pigeon peas because I happen to have a couple of cans on hand. I’m sure you can try it with any bean variety of your choice, be it red beans, black, white, pinto or, even black eye peas. The fusion element comes in when I add soy sauce and peanut butter to attain a distinctive sweet and sour affect. Trust me, you’ll love it.

The dish may be a bit repetitive in that you use two pans to cook the ingredients. Other than that, it’s quite easy to make. Also, It’s an entrée that you can serve by itself or over rice or pasta. If you’re a tofu fan, this recipe will hit the spot.

Final Note: in our family, we like extra firm tofu but, even with extra firm, we still press it before cooking.  Pressing the tofu compresses it and squeezes out extra moisture, making it firmer and dryer, which means you can get a more  closed-grained interior and wonderfully crisp exterior when you cook it. The procedure is easy enough: wrap a block of tofu in a couple sheets of paper towels, then place in a plate with a lip. Put something heavy like a frying pan on top and weigh it down with 2 full cans or jars, or even a couple of books, and leave for 30 minutes.. The tofu will lose about two-thirds its original thickness, and up to 100ml water will have been removed. You can take a chance on  cooking the tofu without pressing, but you might end up with shredded tofu and a soup-like consistency. Better to be safe and sure.

TOFU CON CHILI Y GANDULES

Ingredients:

1 bloc tofu (14-16 oz,) rinsed and cut into chunks or serving pieces
¼ cup soy sauce
1½ tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons peanut butter
1/8 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ cup water
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic peeled and minced
2 (15 oz.) cans gandules – reserve the liquid in the cans
1 tablespoon chili powder or to taste
1 tablespoon cumin  powder

Instructions:

  1. In a bowl, combine the tofu, soy sauce, tomato paste, peanut butter, oregano and water. Mix until the tofu is evenly coated.
  2. In a wok or large pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive  oil and fry the tofu pieces until all liquid is absorbed and the tofu is browned.
  3. In another smaller pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and sauté the onion and garlic over medium heat until the onion is transparent. Add these, the browned tofu, and gandules to the wok or large pan. Add reserved water from the cans, chili powder and cumin. Stir to mix, cover and simmer on medium-low heat for 3-4 minutes or until  hot.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

BACALAO CON HUEVOS (Cofdish with Eggs)

Bacalao, or salted codfish, is still very popular in the Caribbean. This probably has to do with the fact that in olden days, before refrigeration, encasing fish  (usually cod) in salt was the best preservative. A ship would sail out of New England to say, Newfoundland, catch as much cod as possible,  have it salted and brought back. This became a staple diet in the Caribbean, West and North Africa, Southeast Asia and Southern China. With the advent of refrigeration and the availably of seafood, salt cod lost its cache—but not in our family. We ate it regularly back on the block, and still do. It’s an ethnic thing.

Salt cold, when properly prepared, has a texture and taste unlike any other; and it’s so versatile. In our crowd we cook it in numerous way, whether stewed, in casseroles, with eggplant, with peppers, with rice, you name it. One favorite way, as shown in the following recipe, is with eggs.  It’s a dish good for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner. You can serve it as it with bread or pair it with your favorite grain or pasta, as we did this time around  with linguini. You can even make sandwiches out of it.

One of the reason salt cod lost its popularity is because, due to its salt content (duh?) it must be prepared for cooking. The usual procedure is to soak it in water to cover for at least 6 hours or, better yet, overnight. Then drain and rinse under cold running water, and again place in a pot with water to cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes or so. Now the cod is mostly salt-free. You can flake it and it’s ready to cook. There is an easier method if time is a problem: place cod in a pot or pan with water to cover and let it stand 15-20 minutes. Then drain the cod,  place in a skillet and cook over low heat for 5-6 minutes. This ensures that the salt content is removed. We should note that, these days, in most places salt cod already comes with the skin and bones removed. So, no problem there. This makes it the more easier to prepare. Yes, I know, you’re saying, Why go through all this bother when I can buy any other fish and just heat  it up? Well, because as Tevye said in Fiddler on the Roof: “It’s Tradition!” Look, just try the thing. You’ll be surprised on how delicious this recipe is. Not only that, you’ll be contributing to the history of an edible that has been with us since time immemorial.

And, one last thing. The recipe calls for achiote, that Puerto Rican ingredient that is also used for flavor and coloring. Achiote is simply dried annatto seeds which can be found in Latino or Asian markets. All you do  is, in a small skillet, heat ½ cup olive oil, add 1 tablespoon of annatto seeds (in most supermarkets they come in 8 oz. jars), turn heat to low and cook the seeds, stirring frequently for 5 minutes. During cooking the oil will turn a bright red-orange color. Remove from heat, let cool, place in a glass jar or container and refrigerate. That’s it. As mentioned, you can use the achiote to give food that bright red-yellow hue and enhance its flavor. Among other things, it make perfect yellow rice without spending loads of cash on saffron.

BACALAO CON HUEVOS
(Codfish with Eggs)

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1 pound dried salt cod, prepared for cooking (see above)
3 tablespoons achiote (see above)
1/8 teaspoon dried oregano
6 eggs, lightly beaten

Instructions:

  1. Heat oil in a large frying pan or skillet. Add onion and garlic and sauté until onion is tender and slightly brown.
  2. Add flaked codfish, achiote coloring and oregano. Cook for about 3 minutes.
  3. Add beaten eggs. Sauté over low heat until eggs are scrambled to taste.
    Yield: 4 servings.

MAJERETE (Corn Pudding)

Majerete (Mah-heh-reh-teh) is a dessert that is popular in the Caribbean but, depending on where, it has variations. Traditionally, majerete is a corn pudding made from freshly husked corn.  Think of it as a smooth corn-type custard. The Spanish verb majar  means to grind or crush, and in the old days that’s  how it was done, with a mortar and pestle to grind the corn. The other thing is that, in some recipes, they use rice flower and still call it majerete. In our family we didn’t do the rice majerete, we used canned corn. Yes, canned corn. In the summer, when sweet corn was available, we would use fresh corn. However, year round, we found that canned corn is just as good. We are not purists in that regard.

Initially, the pudding was made from just 4 ingredients: corn, milk, sugar and cinnamon. In our version we add cornstarch to give it a thicker texture. In Spanish Harlem, we had people who preferred using coconut milk instead of regular whole milk in the preparation. We stuck with the milk. It was the flavor we were use to. Whichever way you spruce it up, you’re gonna love this dessert.

Ingredients:

2 cans (15.25 oz.) corn, drained
2 cups whole milk
Pinch of salt
¾ cup brown sugar
¼ cup cornstarch
2 cinnamon sticks
Ground cinnamon for garnish

Instructions:

  1. In a food processor, add corn, milk, salt, sugar and cornstarch. Blend until pureed.
  2. Strain the mixture through a metal or wire-mesh sieve removing all the corn kernel pulp and leaving just the liquid. You may have to strain it a few times or, if desired, you can use a cheese cloth.
  3. In a medium saucepan or deep skillet, add the corn liquid and cinnamon sticks. Stir to combine until the sugar is dissolved. Cook on medium heat, stirring constantly so that it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan and the mixture has thickened to a smooth, pudding-like consistency, about 45 minutes. Rule of thumb: you know it has thickened when it coats the back of a spoon.
  4. Discard cinnamon sticks and transfer the mixture to 6 small dessert cups or one medium size serving bowl. Cool about 10 minutes. Place in refrigerator and chill until cold and set, at least 45 minutes. Garnish with ground cinnamon, if desired.
    Yield: 6 servings.

PECHUGA DE POLLO CON RON (Chicken Breasts with Rum)


I always thought there was a classical French cuisine component to this dish. Reason being, it’s partly cooked in a rich white sauce which gives it that smooth, creamy texture. But it has that Caribbean slant to it: we prepare it with rum; and by that I mean Puerto Rican rum. The best there is.

It’s simple enough: halve the chicken breasts, season, dredge in flour and fry until lightly browned. Then simmer with heavy cream. That’s it. The secret ingredient is that you flame the chicken with dark rum to give it that unique taste. Don’t worry about getting tipsy on the booze. The alcohol content disappears and only the sweet rum flavor remains.

Enjoy this one. You won’t be disappointed.

 

PECHUGA DE POLLO CON RON (Chicken Breasts with Rum)

Ingredients:

4 chicken breasts, boned
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
4 tablespoons butter
¼  cup dark rum
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon paprika

Instructions:

 1. Rise chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Halve chicken breast, sprinkled with salt, pepper and thyme. Dredge the halves in flour to coat them lightly.
3. Heat butter in a heavy skillet or frying pan over medium heat, adding more butter as needed. Add breasts and sauté until lightly browned
(they do not need to be cooked through to the center).
4. Heat the rum, pour over the breasts and ignite with a match. Add cream, cover skillet and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. Add paprika and season to taste. Arrange the breasts on a warmed serving platter. Strain the sauce remaining in the skillet over the chicken  and  serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

SPICED RUBBED STEAK CARRIBEAN STYLE

Yes, we Nuyoricans like our food with a bit of spice. It goes back to our heritage on the island of Puerto Rico, and which continued with the vast migration to the mainland.  Back in Spanish Harlem (East Harlem these days) we would spice up our steaks with whatever was available in the kitchen cupboard; and we had enough spices on hand to make a go of it. Like this spiced rubbed steak that you can whip up in 15 minutes. The spice rub gives the meat a sweet and sour flavor whether the steak is grilled, broiled or sautéed.  This dish can be done with 4 individual steak servings using porterhouse or club steaks. You can also cook up 2 pounds of  other meat such as bottom round  ribeye or (if times are lean)  chuck steak, and then cut into serving pieces. Lastly, if you want it really spicy you can add cayenne pepper. As noted, this is optional.

We normally do steak in a cast iron skillet;. but some prefer a nonstick skillet. Go with what’s best for you. Traditionally this meal is served with rice.  You can also add a side vegetable, if desired   Buen apetito.

SPICED RUBBED STEAK CARIBBEAN STYLE

Ingredients:

4 porterhouse or club steak (8 ounces per steak, about ½-inch thick)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt an pepper to taste
½ teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon cayenned (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil

Instructions:

  1. Wash steak under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  2. In a small bowl, combine spice ingredients and rubbed the mixture over the entire surface of the steaks.
  3. Heat oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add steaks and cook 5-6 minutes on each side or until cooked to desired degree of doneness. Transfer meat to a carving board and let it rest 5 minutes before serving.
    Yield: 4 servings.

POLLO CON HABICHUELAS (Chicken and Beans)

 

In our culture we love chicken and we love beans. So why not combine them together in a one pot meal, as we did back on the block with Pollo con Habichuelas. Just mix the ingredients, season, cook, and you have a marvelous one dish entrée.

In our family we use dried beans when preparing this dish. It will not work with canned beans, which are already precooked. You would have to prepare the chicken and beans separately, and then combine—which negates the idea of a one dish meal. Also, since it’s dried beans we’re dealing with, that means they need to be soaked for at least 8 hours or, preferably, overnight. This makes it easier to cook, and reduces the gas produced when the food is being digested.  There is a quick presoak method I’ve seen online: In a large pot, add 6 cups of water for each pound (2 cups) of dry beans. Heat to boiling; boil for 2–3 minutes. Remove from heat, cover and soak for at least 1 hour. Full disclosure, I’ve never tried this method; so I can’t vouch whether it works or not. Proceed as you think best.

Note that we use white beans in this recipe, which cuts down on the cooking time (about 1 hour). It takes longer to cook other beans. For instance, black beans take 60 to 90 minutes, kidney beans, navy beans and pinto beans take 90 to 120 minutes. With those varieties, since we’re cooking the chicken and beans together, by the time the beans are done, the chicken will be overcooked and dry.

The usual accompaniment to this dish is rice. In out family we like it as is with a crusty loaf of bread. Whichever way you serve it, it makes for a great dinner and the leftovers taste better the next day.

 

POLLO CON HABICHUIELAS

Ingredients:

2 cups white beans
1 2½-3 pound chicken, cut into serving pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon fresh chopped leaf oregano  or 1 teaspoon dried
1 chicken bouillon cube
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 cup black olives, sliced

 

Instructions:

  1. Day before, rinse beans, place in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 inches. Cover pot, and soak overnight. Note that the beans do not need to be refrigerated while soaking. Just leave in the kitchen counter while soaking or atop the stove.
  2. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a bowl, drizzle with olive oil, add salt, pepper, garlic and oregano. Mix to combine. Let stand for 15 minutes so that the spices blend into the chicken pieces.
  3. Drain beans, place in large pot, add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and add chicken, bouillon cube and turmeric. Stir to mix. Lower heat to gentle simmer, cover and cook until beans are tender, about 1 hour. Add more water, if necessary, during cooking. Add olives, cook 4 minutes more and serve.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

EASTER LAMB DISH

Easter is upon us once more, and it brings back memories of the Easter meals back on the block. In Spanish Harlem it was either pernil (roast pork shoulder) or lamb. In my family, we preferred lamb (we had the pernil at Christmas). I didn’t find out about roast Smithfield ham for the holiday (as is popular in some Anglo households) until I left the block and my horizons expanded.

Today, lamb is still our favored dish for this time of year, and I’m always on the lookout for unique ways to prepare it. The recipe given below is Glazed Leg of lamb. The recipe itself is simple enough: we make slits in the lamb and stuff it with slivers of garlic; then we marinated it overnight in a mix of salt, pepper, turmeric and olive oil. When the lamb is roasted, the glaze used is a mix of apple jelly, rosemary and lemon juice. We serve the dish with sweet potatoes (yams). It makes for a great Easter meal or, for anytime you want that special leg of lamb extravaganza.

GLAZED LEG OF LAMB

Ingredients:

Leg of lamb (about 5 pounds)
3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
1 tablespoon turmeric
Salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup apple jelly
½ teaspoon rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup butter
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 pound sweet potatoes, washed, peeled and cut into chunks

Instructions:

  1. Day before cooking, rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers.
  2. In a small bowl, combine turmeric, salt, pepper and olive oil. Brush mixture over entire leg of lamb. Wrap lamb in aluminum foil, place in fridge and marinate overnight.
  3. Next day, preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
  4. Place lamb in a shallow roasting pan and bake 30 to 35 minutes per pound or until a meat thermometer registers 175 degrees for medium doneness.
  5. Meanwhile, combine jelly, rosemary and lemon juice in small saucepan. Brush on lamb during last hour of roasting time.

BAKED YAMS

  1. Combine butter, brown sugar and nutmeg in a small saucepan. Stir and cook over low heat until well blended.
  2. Pour butter mixture over sweet potatoes and arrange around lamb; and continue baking for the last 30 minutes of roasting time. Arrange on a serving platter and serve.
    Yield: 6 or more servings.

QUESILLO BLANCO

This is one of the lesser known desserts in criollo cuisine. It is a type of custard for which there is no English translation. Although queso means ‘cheese’ in Spanish, there is no cheese in this dessert. Why it’s called quesillo I have no idea. There are two types of quesillo: one is made with pineapple juice boiled  with sugar, which is then baked and chilled in a mold. The other is Quesillo Blanco. Or White Quesillo. That is the recipe given below. This version is made with eggs and condensed milk. Whatever it is called, forget the  semantics. It’s a truly delicious dessert that will cap a fine end to any meal.

Note that in the dessert, when baked, the custard will rise in the pan, giving it a sooth, delectable pink/russet color that will entice you with a tasty finish.

Quesillo Blanco

Ingredients:

3 eggs, separated
1 14-ounce can sweetened  condensed  milk
Cinnamon for garnish.

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.
  2.  In separate bowls, beat egg yolks and whites until light and frothy.
  3.  Add yolks to whites and beat well.
  4.  Stir in condemned milk and beat until blended.
  5.  Pour into a 1 quart mold or casserole.
  6.  Fill a baking pan ¾ full with hot water. Place mold in water and bake for 1 hour. The custard will rise in the pan, and is done when a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
  7.  You can serve as it or, if preferred, run a knife along rim of mold or casserole and unmold onto a serving dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

BAKED GROUND MEAT

I’m told this recipe is of Lebanese origin. The recipe itself intrigued me in that in Nuyorican cuisine, at least in our family,  we would bake ground meat with cheese on top and serve it with bread. Later on, when my palate expanded I discovered Shepheard’s Pie and other ground meat dishes. So I’m always on the lookout for other baked meat specialties. In this rendition, the ground beef is seasoned and formed into meatball shapes and topped with slice onion, potato and tomato.  Le me add. if you want to cut back on your beef intake, you can substitute ground turkey or chicken, and it’ll be just as tasty. This dish is a meal in itself and, with a good crusty loaf of bread, makes for a sumptuous lunch or dinner.

BAKED GROUND MEAT

Ingredients:

1 pound lean ground meat
½ bunch chopped parsley, washed and finely chopped
½ onion, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more to taste
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
½ pound potatoes, thinly sliced (do not peel)
½ pound tomatoes, sliced
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degree F.
  2. In a bowl, combine the ground meat with the chopped parsley and onion. Add salt, pepper and cinnamon. Divide the mixture into a dozen equal parts and roll into balls. Now, you can make the meatballs as large or small as you like.  It could be anywhere from 6 large balls or a dozen small balls. Your choice.
  3.  Gently flatten the balls and place in a greased baking pan or dish (we prefer cast iron). Over each patty, place a slice of onion, a slice of potato and a slice of tomato.  Pour the tomato sauce over the patties, place in oven and bake for about 1 hour or until the patties are well cooked.
    Yield: 4-6 servings

 

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