Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

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CHICKEN MAYONNAISE

One of the most famous restaurants in American history is Delmonico’s, which gained its fame during the so-called Gilded Age (from about the late 1870s to the late 1890s). At that time, Delmonico’s was and is a place where the rich and the famous came to dine and be seen. By the way, it is still around at its historic location at 56 Beaver Street (at the corner of Beaver and William streets).  During the 1880’s its head chef was Charles Ranhofer, who created several famous dishes. Among these are Lobster Newberg, Eggs benedict and the Delmonico Steak (a thick cut of ribeye). Yet one of the unique dishes in the April 1899 Delmoinico’s menu held by the New York Public Library is ‘Chicken Mayonnaise.’ When you come to think of it, it’s a great combo: chicken breasts lathered with mayo then baked. Nothing could be simpler or more satisfying. A rich, delicious entrée.

The recipe itself is simple enough, but I tweaked it since my purview is Puerto Rican cuisine. I omitted the cheese (either Parmesan or cheddar) that is usually listed in the recipe and instead added sazón (or sasón), an ingredient popular in Puerto Rican and Latino cuisine. Goya products make a pretty good version as does Sa-són Ac’cent and Bodega Badia. It usually comes in 0.17-ounce packets If you don’t have or cannot find sazôn, you can substitute a ¼ teaspoon of turmeric. Also, in some recipes the chicken is pounded with a mallet between two sheets of plastic wrap to flatten them. I do not flatten the chicken breasts. Instead, I slice them in half lengthwise and then bake. Which means you have four servings using two breasts. Or eight servings using four chicken breasts. Your choice, depending on how many people you’re feeding at a given time.

Let me add, for the record, that I came across this historical tidbit from the Winter edition of Repast Magazine, a quarterly publication of the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor (https//culinaryhistoriansannarbor.org). They are a wonderful organization that record almost anything and everything that has to do with fine food.

So, enjoy this recipe. I served it with orzo, a small pasta that resembles a large shape of rice. If you prefer rice, then go with that. Or you can substitute any favorite grain such as quinoa, millet or couscous. Have fun.

MAYONNAISE CHICKEN (Nuyorican version)

Ingredients:

4 (4-oz) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
¼ teaspoon black pepper or to taste
1 packet  sazôn seasoning

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
  2. Rinse chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place them in a lightly greased baking dish (we prefer cast-iron)
  3. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, black pepper and sazón.
  4.  Spread the mayonnaise mixture evenly over the top of each chicken breast.
  5. Bake for 20-30 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a breast reads 165 degrees F.
    Yield: 6-8 servings (see above).

COOKING WITH FENUGREEK

Back in my young manhood I discovered fenugreek, an ancient herb and spice that, as I recall, we never used in our cooking back in Spanish Harlem. But once I found it, it became part of my culinary tradition.  For the health conscious, fenugreek has many benefits. It is packed with soluble fiber, protein and iron. It also helps regulate sugar levels, stimulates breast milk production, reduces inflammation, and helps with weight management by suppressing appetite. Not, only that, it can help in the bedroom department. Clinical studies suggest that fenugreek seed extracts may aid in boosting sexual arousal increasing sex drive and slightly raising testosterone levels in men. So, what more do you want?

I am partial to its sweet maple-like aroma in cooking. At the same time, it has a slightly bitter taste that, I can’t explain how, but also imparts a slight sweetness to a dish. It is a contradiction that makes for a glorious meal; be it breakfast, lunch or dinner. Fenugreek is very popular in Indian, Middle Eastern and North African cuisine. It adds depth and complexity to curries, stews, flatbreads and spice blends like Ethiopian berbere, a spice mixture often paired with lentils, stews, braises and meat.

For today’s recipe, I combined fenugreek with zucchini, a vegetable I enjoy. The result is a delicious vegetarian dish for any occasion. But, if you’re a meat lover, add some to your favorite beef, pork or lamb entrée. Be aware that, to some, fenugreek, may be an acquired taste. So, it’s best regulated according to your taste buds. However you use it, it is a marvel waiting to be discovered. Note that fenugreek comes in whole seed or powdered form. I use the powder. If you’re adventurous you can also use the seeds and then crushed them in a mortar. I just find that to be extra work. The powder is more convenient.

We served this dish with angel hair pasta, and it was great. But you can pair it with ny pasta you prefer be ut string or shells like macaroni or penne. Or you can use a favorite grain like rice, couscous or quinoa. Or just serve it on its own with meat or seafood. It is a versatile rendition that won’t disappoint. Enjoy.

ZUCCHINI WITH FENUGREEK

Ingredients:

3 medium-to large zucchinis (do not peel)
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
¾ cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons flour
¼ teaspoon fenugreek seed powder or to taste
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 medium-to large tomatoes

Instructions:

1. Rinse zucchini under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Slice zucchini into small rounds, about a 1/8-inch thick. Then cut rounds in half. If large, cut into quarters.
3. Heat oil in a large heavy skillet or fry pan.
4. Add onion and garlic and cook until onion is soft and translucent.
5. In a small bowl or cup mix chicken broth with flour and add to zucchini. Cook, stirring, until broth starts to thicken. Note that if broth gets too thick you can always add more water or broth.
5. Stir in fenugreek and heavy cream.
6. Stir in tomatoes and serve
Yield: 4-6 servings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SOY SAUCE FISH FILLETS

This is an easy and delicious recipe for every fish lover. It’s fish fillets drizzled with soy sauce. Nothing could be simpler. The soy sauce adds an Asian tang to the fish. In this instance we used cod fillets, but any white fish fillets can be used be it cod, haddock, tilapia, flounder, scrod or halibut. You can also do it with salmon fillets, if desired.  If you want to be adventurous you can try it with a whole fish like seabass or stiped bass. Just double the ingredients and add more soy sauce to taste. So, go out there and wow family and friends.

SOY SAUCE FISH FILLETS

Ingredients:

4 boneless, skinless, white-fleshed fish fillets (bout 6 ounces each)
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon oregano
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons dry white wine
3 tablespoons soy sauce or to taste

Instructions:

  1. Rinse fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels
  2.  Season fillets with pepper and oregano
  3. Combine olive oil with the butter and heat in a large skillet or frypan on medium-high heat.
  4. Add fish fillets and pan fry about 2 minutes on each side.
  5. Add wine to pan and cook for 30 seconds.
  6. Drizzle with soy sauce, lower heat to medium-low, cover pan and cook fillets 3 minutes more.
    Yield: 4 servings.

STEAMED MUSHROOMS

 

As noted before in this blog, mushrooms is one of those vegetables that one either loves or hate. There is no middle ground here. I love the suckers Even when i was a kid, I was a fan. Their unique earthy flavor and consistency was and is, catnip to me. One of the ways I like to prepare them is by steaming. A method very popular in Asian and continental cuisine. Normally, I use good ole white mushrooms. But one of the delights of mushrooms is the variety you have available: cremini, portobello, chanterelle, shiitake and a host of others. For the record, scientists have estimated nearly 2,000 to 3,000 species are edible. That’s a whole lot to choose from. Luckily, most chefs limit the repertoire to 16 common types of mushrooms that are amenable to cooking, from button white mushrooms to oyster mushrooms to morels, you name it. You can’t go wrong with this delicious edible fungus.

For steaming mushrooms you’ll need a steamer, either bamboo or other. If you don’t have a steamer, you can improvise by placing the mushrooms in a plate; place the plate in a large pot fitted with a 15 ounce can of beans, vegetables, soup or other. Then fill the bottom of the pot with water by about 2 inches and cover. Bring water to a boil and steam the mudrooms. That’s it. Now you’re set for a delicious meal.

Usually, steamed mushrooms are served as a side dish. You can also pair them with rice or other grain such as couscous, quinoa or farro (a nutty- flavored grain popular in Italian cuisine).

STEAMED MUSHROOMS

Ingredients:

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced lengthwise into bite-sized pieces
4 scallions, chopped
3 slices ginger, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons Sherry, dry or sweet, your choice
1 teaspoon Sugar
Salt to taste

1. Drain mushrooms under cold running water. If using other variety than white button mushrooms, soak in warm water for 20 minute and drain.
2.  Place in dish for steaming (see above).
3. Mix mushrooms, scallions, ginger, sherry and sugar together. Place dish in steamer and steam for35 minutes. Add salt to taste and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

HAMBURGERS WITH PICKLES

 

I’m always on the lookout for a good hamburger recipe and, luckily, I came across a burger preparation I had from years ago. For the record, it was a burger recipe from the old 60-Minute Gourmet column in the New York Times by renown chef Pierre Franay. He called it “A German Touch for Ground Beef.” The recipe is essentially, Hamburger with Pickles. Obviously, this is not a Nuyorican dish. Yet the ingredients and preparation mirror how we make Hamburgesa Criollo, or Creole Burgers. You can find a recipe for Creole Burgers in my first cookbook, Puerto Ruican Cuisine in America (Running Press). So, go at it with this recipe. No fuss, no mess, just add finely chopped dill pickles to the ground beef, and there you have it.

Unique about this dish is that it can served as dinner with a side like say, rice, couscous. potatoes or a favorite vegetable. In this case we used sliced tomatoes as a garnish. Also note that, in the original recipe, it called for corn, peanut or vegetable oil for frying. I used olive oil and the tase was great. Again, you’re choice.

This time around, elevate the humble hamburger to the center a fine meal. It won’t disappoint.

HAMBURGERS WITH PICKLES

1½ pound ground beef
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon corn, peanut or vegetable oil (I used olive oil, see above)
½ finely chopped onions
4 tablespoons breadcrumbs
½ cup finely chopped dill pickles
½ teaspoon finely minced garlic
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/3 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons finely chopped parley

Instructions:

  1. Put the meat in a mixing bowl.
  2. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a small saucepan of skillet and add half the onions. Cook, stirring, until wilted. Cool briefly.
  3. Add the cooked onions to the meat, Add the breadcrumbs, pickles, garlic, salt and pepper, and blend thoroughly with the hands.
  4. Divide the mixture into four equal portions and shape each into a patty about 1 inch thick.
  5. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet and when it is very hot add the patties. Cook over moderate heat about 5 minutes or until nicely browned on one side. Turn the patties and cook 2 minutes or to the desired degree of doneness on the other side. Transfer the patties to a warm platter. Pour off the fat from the skillet and add the butter. When it is hot and melted add the remaining onions. Cook, stirring, until wilted and add the vinegar, stirring. Cook about 45 seconds and stir in the sour cream. Stir and heat without bringing to the boil. Pour the sauce over the patties. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

BAKED BRIE

This recipe will seal your immortality among your crowd when it comes to appetizers. The “oohs” and “ahhs” will reverberate throughout the dining room. And it’s so easy to make. Note that the brie is traditionally served with crackers (yes, it can be Ritz) or a sliced baguette. Some people include peanuts and grapes along with sliced apple. Here, you can be as creative as you want. Also, the recipe calls for Himalaya or sea salt. If you don’t have either, regular salt will so, but it won’t taste the same. Sea salt (or Himalayan) gives it more “oomph”. And remember to have the brie cold in the fridge before baking. If it’s at room temperature or warm, it will melt as it bakes.

BAKED BRIE

Ingredients:

1 large round brie cheese (12 to 16 ounces) chilled
Honey (for drizzling over brie)
Chopped pecans (toasted, if preferred)
Himalayan or sea salt to taste
Fresh rosemary or thyme sprigs for garnish
Apple slices

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. You can bake the brie in a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or simply on foil wrap with a light coating of olive oil to prevent stockage.
  2.  Place the chilled brie on the baking sheet and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until soft in the middle.
  3. Remove from oven and carefully transfer to a serving dish.
  4.  Drizzle generously with honey and sprinkle with chopped pecans and salt. Garnish with rosemary or thyme and serve with apples, crackers ora baguette.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

GUISO DE CORDERO PRIMAVERA (Spring Lamb Stew)

The following is wonderful dish for the season. We call it Guiso de Cordero  Primavera or, “Spring Lamb Stew. ” In our crowd, normally in Spring it would be a rack of lamb that would grace the table. But, sometimes, we prefer to do something that’s simple yet creative. That’s where this dish comes in. You can use lamb stew meat that you can get packages at any store or market. And it’s a lamb dish that’s done on a stovetop. No broiling or baking necessary. You can also use leftover neat from a leg of lamb: simply cut it up in ½-inch thick pieces or thereabouts.

The spices in this entrée are salt, pepper, garlic and dried rosemary. If you have fresh rosemary on hand, you can use that. Then you dredge the lamb chunks in flour and cook in some olive oil. This is an easy Nuyorican dish that’s good not only for Spring, but also whenever you want to create something convenient and delicious. Also, note that we add frozen veggies to the recipe. You can use whatever is available. We used green beans. You can substitute carrots, frozen peas, cauliflower, etc. or a mix thereof. If you want to use fresh vegetables, go right ahead. Just be aware that the cooking time may be shorter.

Let me add that we serve this dish on a bed of steamed white rice. It’s not written in stone. You can serve it with whatever grain you desire, be it couscous, quinoa or, even kasha. Or a green salad would work, for that matter. You can also pair it with pasta, preferably tubular like penne, macaroni or elbows. Just let your imagination table flight. Happy dining.

GUISO DECORDERO PRIMAMAVERA
(Spring Lamb Stew)

Ingredients:

Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons flour (or more as needed)
1-1½ pounds boneless stew meat
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 (16-oz.) bag frozen vegetables
1 cup beef broth
½ cup red wine (dry or sweet)

Instructions:

1.Combine salt, pepper and flour in a shallow plate or bowl. Dredge lamb chunks in the mixture.
2. Heat olive oil in a large skillet or frypan (we prefer cast-iron) over medium heat. Add lamb and cook until browned (about 2 minutes). Turn and continue cooking until browned on all sides (about 5-6 minutes).
3. Reduce heat to low. Add garlic, rosemary, frozen vegetables, broth, wine and cover. Cook, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

BACALAO EMPANANDO (Breaded Codfish)

Nuyoricans love codfish. We boil, it, we fry it, broil, bake, you name it. When we first came to New York) from Puerto Rico in the 1950s, we discovered that cod could be found almost everywhere. From Little Italy to Chinatown, wherever there was an ethnic enclave, there was cod. And we mean salted codfish which, honestly, takes preparation.  Why? Because of the sodium content. It goes back to the old days when packing in salt was the best preservative. Thus, to this day, before cooking, salted cod has to be soaked in cold water, preferably overnight to rid it of the salt. Then you rinse it, pat dry with paper towels and it’s set for cooking. You might think, this is a lot just to cook the freakin’ fish. But, believe me, the final result is glorious; like today’s entrée: Bacalao Empanado or, Breaded Codfish.

In this instance, all you do it just encrust the cod in breadcrumbs, add the required spices, inclusive of mayonnaise and sour cream, and bake. That’s it. You can pair this dish with your favorite grain, like rice, couscous or even potatoes. This time, we served it with orzo, the small rice-shape pasta made from semolina. Lastly, you can garnish the dish with rosemary or tarragon, or whatever fresh herb you have on hand.  On a whim, we added tomato as a garnish. However you dress it up, the dish is heavenly. Have fun.

BACALAO EMPANADO
(Breaded Codfish)

Ingredients:

½ cup breadcrumbs
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
¼ cup sour cream
¼ mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt to taste
1½-2 pounds salted cod, skinned if desired
Half a tomato for garnish

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. For the baking, you can coat a large baking pan or foil wrap with a little olive oil.
  2. Comvbine breadcrumbs, garlic and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small bowl. Combine yogurt, mayonnaise, lemon juice, tarragon in another small bowl. Place fish on the baking pan or foil wrap. Spread 1 tablespoon of the yogurt mix on each piece of fish, then put 2 tablespoons of the breadcrumbs over it.
  3. Bake the codfish until opaque in the center and golden, about 15 minutes. Serve each portion with 1 tablespoon of the remaining sauce.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

PAN-SEARED RACK OF LAMB (Costilla de Cordero Guisado)

 

In our family, rack of lamb was one of those glorious, mostly inaccessible dishes. and it was only procured for a special occasion. And every time it was done in the oven. You marinated the lamb, preferably overnight in olive oil, salt, pepper, oregano and desired herbs like rosemary and thyme. Then you roasted the thing at 450 degrees F. until preferred doneness. That was the traditional way.

Recently, I began thinking about cooking the rack of lamb on the stovetop, in a skillet. Just sear the suckers in olive oil, add desired spices, and a little wine, cover and cook until done. Simple and easy to prepare. No mess, no fuss. And that is the recipe given below: Pan-Seared Rack of Lamb or, as we would call it back on the block, Costillas de Cordero Guisado (Kostiyas deh Korderoh Gee-sa-doh). This is a special one, where you want to impress everyone at the table, not just that special someone you want to take home. Enjoy this one, folks.

Note that a standard rack of lamb typically contains 7 to 8 rid bones. These racks are often sold “Frenched” meaning the meat and fat have been removed from the bone end for a cleaner presentation. A full rack normally consists of 8 ribs, which can be carved into 8 individual chops.

PAN-SEARED RACK OF LAMB
(Costilla de Cordero Guisado)

Ingredients:

2 (2 pound) racks of lamb
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
6 large springs fresh rosemary, chopped, or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
½ cup dry white wine

Instructions:

  1. Wash lamb racks under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Season racks with salt, pepper, oregano, rosemary and thyme. If you’re not pressed for time, set lamb on a piece of foil-wrap enough to cover loosely and refrigerate overnight until ready to cook. If not, then cook immediately. In all cases, let the racks of lamb sit at room temperature for 30-60 minutes before cooking. This will ensure more even heat distribution when cooking on stovetop.
  2. Heat olive oil in a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, over high-medium heat. Place racks meaty side down and cook until lightly browned, about 3-4 minutes.
  3. Using tongs, turn racks meaty side up and cook until lightly browned on the underside, about 3 minutes.  Note that ribs curve, so the underside won’t make complete contact with the pan. Stand the racks, so the bones are pointing upward, and sear so that the underside is lightly browned. You may need to lean the racks against each other to keep them from falling.
  4. Add butter to the pan and let melt. Add garlic, lower heat to medium and cook the lamb, flipping constantly, and basting with the hot butter, about 2 minutes.
  5. Add white wine, reduce heat to low and cook 15-20 minutes. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the internal temperature in the thickest part of the meat. It should register 130 degrees F. for medium-rare or 135 for medium. The cooking time will vary depending on the size of the racks. They range from quite small to big and meaty.  Use your judgement. And make sure to spend some time basting the ribs side of the racks so that they cook evenly too.
  6. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil and let rest 10 minutes before slicing. Carve between the ribs into individual chops and serve.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

ARROZ CON AGUACATE, LIMAS Y GARBANZOS (Rice with Avocado, Lime and Chickpeas)

Once in a while I like a good vegetarian dinner. I am not a vegetarian, but I do have vegetarian friends, and I do comply with their tastes and well-being. The recipe given today is in that vein. It’s a Dominican dish I came across, which couples’ avocado (flavored with lime juice), rice and garbanzos (chickpeas). The avocado-lime rice got my attention. The recipe is simple enough: Layer rice with creamy avocado and, finally, garbanzos.  Can’t go wrong with this one. With some crusty bread and a chilled white wine such as Sauvignon blank or Pinot Grigio (or even beer, if that’s your preference), you’ll have a most enjoyable meal that even carnivores will love.

Let me add that I have modified the original Dominican dish by adding the usual Nuyorican ingredients and spices (onion, garlic, oregano, etc.). What can I say? It’s a Nuyorican thing. But however you prepare the dish, you won’t be disappointed.

Now, here come the semantics. The word “limon” typically refers to what English speakers call a lime, while “lima” is used for what English speakers call a lemon. This is a linguistic quirk where the same word, “limón,” is used for both. However, in our household back on the block, we call limes, “limas” or “lima.” So, that’s my usage in this instance.

ARROZ CON AGUACATE, LIMAS Y GARBANZOS
(Rice with Avocado, Lime and Chickpeas)

Ingredients:

2½ cups long grain rice
Water to cover
4 Tablespoons olive oil (divided)
1 small red onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 cans (15-oz) garbanzos (chickpeas), drained and rinse
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
2 large fresh avocados (or 4 small), cut in half
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
¼ teaspoon garlic powder

Instructions:

  1. Wash rice in a colander under cold running water at least 3 times and drain to rid it of starch.
  2.  Place rice in a heavy kettle or pot (we prefer cast-iron) and cover with water to cover by at least 1-inch. If desired, you can add 1 chicken bouillon cube or 1 tablespoon powdered bouillon for added flavor.  Bring water to a boil. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Cover pot, lower heat to simmer, and cook until all water is absorbed (about 10-15 minutes). If rice is not tender enough to your taste, just let it steam more under desired consistency. This is something you gain by experience Usually, just steaming it until water is absorbed, is enough. Let it rest, covered, for about 5 minutes, and fluff with a fork.
  3.  While rice is cooking, heat another 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pan or skillet. Add onion and garlic, and stir-fry until onion is soft and translucent.
  4.  Add garbanzos. Season with salt, pepper and oregano. Cook, stirring, until garbanzos are crunchy and golden.
  5.  Mash avocados in a medium bowl until creamy. Add lime juice and garlic powder to make a soft avocado cream.
  6.  Transfer rice to a large bowl or plate. Add avocado cream until it covers the rice.
  7.  Top with the garbanzo beans and serve.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

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