Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 37 of 83)

CARAMELIZED VEGETABLES

Caramelization is the process of browning when sugar is heated. This process can also be used in vegetables when the sugars found in fruits and vegetables turn golden brown and form new flavors. This oxidation or browning reaction is used extensively in cooking. It produces such foods as caramel sauce, crème brûlée, and caramelized sweetened milk (dulce de leche). You’ve probably seen it in French onion soup whereby the onions are caramelized before incorporating into the soup.

In the home kitchen, caramelized vegetables are very easy to make. Almost any vegetable can be turned into a great side dish or even a vegetarian meal by itself.  There are two basic methods of cooking the vegetable: roasting (baking) method or the stove-top method.  Both work equally well.  So, you want to make a quick pasta or rice dish? Simple: prepare the vegetables while the pasta or rice is cooking. My favorite vegetables in this process are broccoli, cauliflower or carrots, or combination thereof. Enjoy.

Roasting or Baking Method:

Rinse vegetable under running water, pat dry and cut into bite-sized pieces. Toss them with live oil (1-3 tablespoons depending on how much vegetables you have).  Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread them on a sheet or baking pan (I prefer cast-iron) and bake at 425 degrees F. or higher until they become tender and caramelized.
When they come out all nice and tender, squeeze on a little lemon juice (usually juice of ½ lemon) or sesame oil.

Stove-top Method:

Stir-fry cut vegetables in a very hot wok or pan slicked with a little peanut oil (1-2 tablespoons or more). As above, the vegetables will take on the sweetness that comes from caramelization, which can be balanced with a splash of lemon juice or red wine vinegar.

SHRIMP MARINARA

Sometimes the best meals are those done at the spur of the moment. You’ve been there: “What’s for dinner, honey?” Reply: “I don’t know, what we got?” You look around, and inspiration strikes. Or doesn’t. In which case, you order pizza. But what if you don’t want pizza? There’s the challenge. And this is one of those meals. I look in the fridge, and I have some shrimp. I look in the cupboard, and I find a can of Marinara sauce (or it can be spaghetti sauce, pizza sauce, or even tomato sauce). Th rest is history, and a great meal. Add a good crusty bread, and a red wine like a Chianti or Zinfandel (or whatever the hell you want, even a white wine), and you have a delicious spur-of-the-moment dinner. It may not be haute cuisine, but it hits the spot.

SHRIMP MARINARA

Instructions:

1 pound capellini (angel hair) pasta (or any favorite pasta)
1 can (24- oz.) Marinara, spaghetti, or tomato sauce
¼ cup dry white or red wine
1 pound large or extra large shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

Instructions:

  1. Cooked pasta according to package directions.
  2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan or skillet, bring the Marinara, spaghetti, or tomato sauce  to a boil. Add wine and shrimp. Reduce heat, add salt, pepper, and oregano. Cover, simmer for 7 minutes.
  3.  Drain pasta, place in a serving bowl. Pour sauce over pasta and serve.
    Yield: 4 or more servings.

 

HABICHUELAS CON CHORIZO (Beans with Sausage)

Whether you call them, habicheulasfrijoles, or granos,  beans are a popular foodstuff in Puerto Rican cooking. In my parents day, during the dark times of the Great Depression, beans and rice is what staved off hunger on the island. It was cheap and nutritious. When Boricuas first came to New York during the mass wave in the 1950s, they brought with them their penchant for beans . I was raised on beans and whatever grain was available. And the dish given below was one of our favorites. It’s Bean with Sausage. The sausage being chorizo, the cured, spicy Spanish sausage so beloved in our culture. They come in an 8-ounce package and, for this meal, you’ll need three.

Now, if you’ve acquired my book, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Running Press) you will note that I give two  methods for soaking beans. Most likely you’ll be getting dried beans from a store or supermarket. They require soaking in water before cooking if for no other reason that the dry beans you pick up could be older and drier than last year’s meatloaf. I prefer overnight soaking as oppose to the quick soaking method. It follows that the more soaking time, the more tender the product. But, if you’re pressed for time you can do quick soaking: put the beans in a pot with water to cover (about 2 inches). Bring water to a boil and cook beans for 1 minute. Remove from heat, cover with a lid and let soak for 1 hour. Drain the beans, rinse and cook according to recipe.

Now, for this recipe you can use whatever beans are available. It can be red kidney beans, black beans, white beans, Lima beans, pink beans, black eye peas, or green peas (what we call pitipuas, a mispronunciation of the French petitpois).  This time around I used pinto beans, which we hand on hand. Yes, you’re saying, who not just use beans from a can. You could, and it would be convenient, but it just wouldn’t taste the same. Believe me, the result would be different.  If nothing else, dried beans are healthier (canned beans are chock full of salt).

Also, in preparing the beans, I use sofrito as a condiment.  Sofrito is an aromatic mix of herbs and spices that is a base for cooking countless dishes. In my cookbook I give a recipe for making sofrito. You can also access a recipe from my post of 11/08/10. Or you can prepare the recipe without it. Some cooks use Sazón Accent (Goya makes a good product).  And, of course, the perfect side dish for this recipe is white or yellow rice

HABICUELAS CON CHORIZO
(Beans with Sausage)

Ingredients:

1 pound package of whatever bean desired
3 cups water
½ cup olive oil
3 chorizo sausages, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
2 tablespoons sofrito
¼ cup tomato sauce
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

Instructions:

1. Rinse the beans in a colander under cool running water. Check and discard any stones or other debris. Soak overnight in a pot with water to cover.
2. Drain and rinse. Place in heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook over moderate-high heat for 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a skillet or frying pan, heat olive oil. Add chorizo and stir-fry on moderate heat for 5 minutes.
4. Add sofrito, tomato sauce, salt, pepper and oregano. Sauté another 5 minutes.
5. Add sofrito mix to the beans. Stir, cover and cook for 20 minutes or until sauce has thickened. Serve with rice.
Yield: 6 servings.

 

 

 

ROAST PORK WITH FENNEL

 

I’m always on the lookout for particular ingredients that can enhance my cooking. This recipe falls under that category. I’ve always been curious about fennel, an aromatic and flavorful herb, very similar to anise, from which comes that popular cordial, anisette. Fennel is used in the cooking of many cultures such as Indian, Afghanistani, Middle Eastern, and is one of the ingredients in Chinese five-spice powder. But, in western cuisine, how would it hold up on its own? Let’s say, if we pair it with meat? I pondered this and decided to combine it with some pork loin which I had on hand. The results were marvelous. And that is the genesis of Roast Pork with Fennel. You will not be disappointed in the results.

I’m sure this recipe can also be paired with steak or lamb. It would be too overpowering with fish.  I would say the same for chicken. But, who knows, it you want to try it with these other staples, go at it and let me know.

I served this dish with mashed potatoes, since the pork loin rendered a great gravy to go with it. A side dish such as rice, couscous or quinoa would complement it as well. Add a good red wine, such as a Cabernet, Zinfandel, or a lighter  Valpolicella or Beaujolais, and you have a feast.

ROAST PORK WITH FENNEL

Ingredients:

1 3½ to 4 pound boneless pork loin roast
3 to 5 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon crushed fennel
½ cup chicken broth

Instructions:

1. Wash the roast under running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Make gashes at various points in the roast, top, back, sides. Stud the holes with the garlic slivers. Sprinkle the roast with salt and pepper. Rub the roast with the fennel seeds.
3.  Place in large zip-lock bag, bowl or pan with a cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or, better yet, overnight.
4. Preheat oven to 400 degree F. Remove roast from refrigerator and arrange fat side down on a shallow baking pan. Bake for 30 minutes. Turn over on meat side and continue roasting another 30 minutes.
5. When the roast has baked a total of one hour, add the chicken broth. cover lightly with foil, and bake 30 to 45 minutes longer depending on size of tenderloin. Note that roast should register 140 to 145 degrees on a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the meant when done.
6. Remove from oven, and pour fat and drippings into a medium pan. Place roast on a cooking board and let it rest while you prepare the gravy:  Sprinkle 4 tablespoons flour onto the roast drippings over medium heat, and quickly stir with a whisk. Slowly add a cup of water or chicken stock, whisking vigorously. Allow the gravy to simmer and thicken, adding more liquid as needed until you have 2 cups of gravy. Now, some people insist that the gravy should be strained and then served. I do not do this. I like the gravy as is. Your choice.
7. Serve roast with the gravy.
Yield: 4-5 servings.

 

 

BUTTER-SPICED PEAS

My wife’s favorite vegetables is peas. I can take ’em or lave ’em. My favorite veggies are broccoli and mushrooms. However, when a good sweet pea recipe comes my way, I’m game. The dish given below attracted me because of its ingredients. I would say it’s probably Indian nature in nature. It calls for caraway, coriander, and mustard seeds. Which convinces me the recipe hails from the sub-continent. The only thing missing is cumin. But, if you want to make it even spicier, you can add cumin. This is a quicky recipe as well.  Start to finish: 15 minutes.

Th underlying ingredient for this dish is butter. In Indian or Pakistani cuisine it would be ghee, a clarified butter where all the milk solids have been removed.  And, if you want, you can make it that way. Ghee is made by heating sticks of butter on the lowest flame possible. Letting it cool for 5 minutes or more, then straining through a piece of muslin cloth and storing in a jar.  Yet I’ve discovered that regular unsalted butter will do as well. For convenience, this is what I use.

Rice would be the regular accompaniment  to this dish. But this time around I added a grain that I’ve come to appreciate: millet. This is a staple that hails from Asia and Africa, and is used not only as a food source for humans but as a fodder food for animals. In Akira Kurosawa’s classic, the Sever Samurai (not the Magnificent Seven movie, which was its cowboy western version) the poor villagers who hire the samurai to protect them from a bandit army, feed the heroes millet, the only food they have.  The samurai eat it, but still dream of meat, and lamb, and pastries. That being said, miller has a nutty flavor which toasting enhances. Simple recipe: toast a cup of millet in a skillet or pan over medium heat 4-5 minutes until the grains are golden brown and become fragrant. Add 2½ cups boiling water or stock, bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook, covered, until liquid is absorbed, about 25 minutes. Fluff with a fork when done, and serve with the peas.

BUTTER-SPICED PEAS

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon paprika
10 ounce sweet peas
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a medium pan or skillet, melt butter over medium heat.
  2.  Add caraway seeds, coriander, mustard and paprika. Cook, stirring frequently, until toasty and fragrant, about 2-3 minutes.
  3.  Add peas and sauté 3 to 4 minutes, or until just tender. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

CHULETAS CON LIMON (Lemon Pork Chops)

This recipe came about because my wife made a batch of cornbread, and it was delicious: “Splenfiferous” as Zorba the Greek would say. When I ventured down south, corn bread and pork chops was a natural combo. My wife’s singular cornbread made me hark back to those great gustatory memories. Now, as to the cornbread, you can use whatever family recipe you have or you can go on-line where there are hundreds and pick the one you like.

Chuletas con Limón was one of our family’s go-to dish during lean times.  It has minimal ingredients, is fairy inexpensive, and still gave you a great meal. We would serve it with rice or potatoes, and it never failed.  My father called it “chuletas hervidas,” or boiled pork chops because the chops are steamed in water. Therefore, going back to what was referenced above, it is a healthy dish, no deep frying other than the initial browning. In our family that was not the main concern. We just wanted something cheap and good tasting.

This dish can be done with either center-cut pork chops or boneless tenderloin (which I prefer). Let your taste and pocketbook decide. Also, you can use the pork fat itself for cooking or you can use olive oil or vegetable oil. Your choice. I know, those among us who are health conscious, and that is a worthy endeavor, can forgo the pork fat. But there is no argument that the chops taste better if using the pork fat. I figure, using the latter method once in a while will not kill you; and it’ll give you a great tasting meal.

CHULETAS CON LIMÓN
(Lemon Pork Chops)

Ingredients:

Four pork chops (1-inch thick)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
4 slices lemon rings, seeded
1 cup water

Instructions:

1. Trim some of the fat that remains around the edge of the pork chops and melt in a large heavy skillet or pan. If the chops are well-trimmed, use one or two tablespoons of olive oil or vegetable oil. You can also substitute shortening, if desired.
2. Sprinkle chops with salt, pepper and oregano on both sides. Add to skillet and brown on both sides slowly, using medium-low heat.
3. Top each chop with a lemon slice and pour in water. Cover tightly and simmer gently until chops are very tender, about 45 minutes. Serve with pan juices
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

SWEDISH SHRIMP

As a shrimp aficionado I’m always on the lookout for good non-traditional shrimp recipes. And the one given below fits that bill. I did not know there was something called Swedish Shrimp until I came across this recipe. It is a hearty shrimp dish. I’m told that in Sweden, it’s usually served over rice with peas. But the sauce with it came out so rich that I served it over angel hair pasta. This is one of those recipes that can go with your favorite grain (apart from rice) or almost any pasta, be it shell or string. With a good red wine, let’s say a Cabernet, Chianti, Merlot, or Zinfandel, it’s a winner.

 

SWEDISH SHRIMP

Ingredients:

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
1 pound shrimp, shelled and deveined
2 tablespoons sour cream
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon corn starch
¼ cup chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried
Juice of half a lemon

Instructions:

1. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about 2 minutes.
2. Add ¾ cup of the chicken broth, bring to a boil. Add shrimp, reduce heat and simmer, covered, until shrimp are pink, about 3 minutes.
3. Whisk together ¼ cup broth, sour cream, mustard and cornstarch in a cup until smooth. Whisk into skillet. Cook, stirring to thicken.
4. Stir in pepper, dill and lemon juice, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings or more.

 

 

 

 

BRAISED VEAL SHANKS (OSSO BUCO)

Osso Buco (or Ossobuco) is famous in Lambard cuisine.  It’s basically braised veal shanks with vegetables, white wine and broth. What I did not know is that my mother had been cooking this dish for years in our humble adobe in Spanish Harlem. She called it  Carne Ternera Guisada, or Braised Veal Shanks. All that time she was cooking a Northern Italian specialty, and we didn’t know it. It just shows the cross-currents of regional cuisines, and how they influenced each other.

Depending upon her whim, my mom would add carrots or potatoes to the dish; and we would serve it with yellow rice. Not the traditional risotto or polenta as done in Lombardy.

This is a hearty meal permeated with herbs, spices and wine. This time around we served it atop couscous, one of our favorite grains. You can use whatever grain is favored, or pasta. Add a good Chianti, Zinfandel or Cabernet, and you’re set.

BRAISE VEAL SHANKS
(Osso Buco)

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
4 medium-sized veal shanks
3 tablespoons flour
1 medium onion, chopped
2 small carrots, chopped
1 (15-oz.) can whole or diced tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1 cup Chablis or Rhine wine
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon rind
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a Dutch oven or heavy kettle, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and lamb shanks dusted lightly with flour; and brown on all sides.
  2.  Add onion, carrots, tomatoes, bay leaves and wine. Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and cook very slowly until tender, about 1½ to 2 hours.
  3.  Stir in parsley and grated lemon rind. Add salt and pepper, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

STUFFED EGGPLANT (Melitzanes Yemistes)

This recipe came about because of a wine I had just acquired. I belong to a wine club (Leithwaite’s Wine) and they had sent me a Greek wine, but made in Lodi, California, no less. It’s a Koroni Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. This gorgeous wine is produced by the Koroni family, who emigrated from Greece to Canada in 1959, and thence to California in 1966.   And they brought with them four generations of wine making expertise from Koroni, their hometown in Greece.

The wine is everything I admire in classic Cabernets: deep-colored with rich current and black cherry flavors. Naturally, I had to pair it with Greek cuisine, which I love. What came to mind was Melitzanes Yemistes, or Stuffed Eggplant. This is no ordinary stuffed eggplant.  Along with tomatoes, and onion, it contains olives, anchovy fillets and cinnamon. As an accompaniment, I included rice with fides noodles, Pilafi me Fides. Back in Spanish Harlem, my mother would cook with fideos, fine noodles that she added to soups. I was pleasantly surprised that in Hellenic cuisine, fideos can be added to rice. It gives the grain a unique crunchy structure.

Oh, yes, the above make a great vegetarian dinner

So, for a treat tonight, cook this glorious meal and imagine you’re in Athens or Crete, or Mykonos, or Santorini. And if you can’t find a Koroni, any good quality wine with do, or even beer. The quest is to enjoy the meal—and you will.

STUFFED EGGPLANT
(Melitzanes Yemistes)

Ingredients:

2 medium eggplants (about  ¼ to ½ pound each)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
1 pound tomatoes, rinsed and chopped
2 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
1 2-inch stick cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
12 black olives
8 anchovy fillets

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. Remove stems and caps from the eggplants
  3.  Heat the olive oil in a large pan or skillet, add the eggplants and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the pan. Cut in half lengthwise and carefully scoop out the pulp, leaving a thin shell. Chop the eggplant pulp coarsely.
  4.  Heat the butter in the same pan or skillet. Add onions and cook until golden. Add the tomatoes and eggplant pulp and cook for 10 minutes.
  5.  Crush the garlic cloves with the salt. Add to the tomato mixture, along with the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, pepper, parsley, and cook for 10 minutes more.
  6.  Fill the eggplant shells with this mixture. Garnish each shell with 3 olives and 2 anchovy fillets. Bake for 10 minutes and serve with rice with fides (recipe below).
    Yield: 4 servings.

RICE WITH FIDES
(Pilafi me Fides)

Ingredients:

1 cup long grain rice
½ cup crushed fideos or vermicelli
3 tablespoons butter
2 cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon dried chives

Instructions:

1. Rinse rice in water until it is clear and all the starch is gone. This is what they call in Pennsylvania Dutch Country as “Washing in Several Waters.”
2. Combine the rice and fideos and sauté in the butter in a 2-quart saucepan until golden brown. Add the chicken broth and chives. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, lower heat and simmer 20 to 25 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed and rice is tender.
3. Fluff with a fork and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

HANGOVER CURES FOR THE NEW YEAR – AGAIN

My brain is melting into my feet.”
—Mel Brooks

 

New Year’s Eve is upon us, and I celebrate by posting my famed Hangover Cures For The New Year once more. Believe me, folks, I’ve been though it.  So here is my treatise, again.

New Year’s revels have been with us since the beginning, and so have hangovers cures. The ancient Romans recommended eating deep fried canaries as a sure-fire cure. The ancient Libyans quaffed a mixture of sea-water and wine. The ancient Greeks recommended eating sheep’s lungs. The ancient Chinese swore that eating horse’s brains was the cure. In the 1800s in the U.S. it was thought that soaking your feet in mustard would do it. Among our Irish brethren it was thought that burying the person up to the neck in moist river sand would generate a cure.

Today in Mexico the national cure is menudo, a broth made of boiled tripe. In Haiti, it’s sticking 13 black-headed pins in the cork of the bottle you drank from that will deliver you from the hangover. In Puerto Rico, at one time, it was said that rubbing a lemon under your drinking arm would be the cure. In Poland, it is still recommended that drinking pickle juice is a good remedy (I would think twice about that one). A more modern cure among scuba divers is taking a blast from an oxygen tank. Some say a steam sauna is the best way to get rid of a hangover. But what if you don’t have access to a sauna?

My experience with hangovers comes from my wild and misspent youth when I was known for more than my share of imbibing. The following remedies are what I consider to be tried and true options, as far as the primordial hangover is concerned.

1. Drink plenty of fluids. Booze dehydrates you. Replenish your system with fruit juices and water. Orange juice with its vitamin C content is especially good.
2. Take a hot shower. This relaxes constricted blood vessels and tense neck muscles.
3. Avoid caffeine. It dehydrates you more. Drinking black coffee will probably make you sicker.
4. Tray good ole Alka Seltzer the next morning. Avoid aspirin, Tylenol or Ibruprofen. Aspirin is a blood thinner, and just like alcohol it can intensify the affects of a hangover. Tylenol (acetamoniphen) can adversely affect the liver. Ibuprofen can cause stomach bleeding.
5. Sweat it out. Exercise the toxins out of your system. But beware that too strenuous exercise may dehydrate you more. I do a series of breathing exercises from our Kung-Fu Wu-Su system called 8 silk weaving. This is marvelous for easing a hangover.
6. Pop some vitamins. B vitamins (especially B6) help the body metabolize alcohol. B vitamin supplements also provide a boost of energy. Vitamin C helps detoxify the body naturally, reducing the affects of the poisons in your system.
7. Ginkgo Biloba (ginkgo seeds) is considered a good herbal remedy since ginkgo contains an enzyme that speed up the body’s metabolism of alcohol.
8. Drink skullcap tea made from an herb (skullcap) that eases withdrawal from the alcohol. It can be found in capsule or tablets in health food stores. I like skullcap tea sweetened with pure, raw organic honey. Believe me, you’ll feel better in an hour or so.
9. Another good tea drink is peppermint. The mint contains antioxidants which is a natural stomach soothener and digestive aid.
10. Ginseng tea or ginseng root (steeped in hot water) soothes the stomach and helps with stomach troubles (endemic to hangovers). I prefer Korean Panax ginseng tea (which contains fructose).
11. Which leads us to the next cure, fructose (or fruit sugar), which speeds the body’s metabolism of alcohol by 25%. Or try putting some raw honey in your tea (it’s more than 40% fructose). Recall that among old time bartenders the favored hangover remedy was just honey in hot water.

If nothing works you can always try the time honored “Hair of the Dog.” That is, having a shot on booze, preferably gin or vodka. Something about the blood stream dealing with the new alcohol and thus ignoring the old alcohol, and the hangover in your system. For the record, I have never tried this, and I don’t think I ever will. And then there’s offering prayers to Saint Viviana, patron saints of drunkards and, concurrently, hangovers.

But my best hangover cure of all is simply, rest, peace, and quiet. Just sleep it off.

That time of year again; and again I post my famed Hangover Cures for the New Year.  The post is based on research and experience.  Believe me, friends, I’ve been through it.  My wild and misspent youth speaks for itself. I no longer indulge in New Year’s Eve festivities. I’ve had enough of those days. In fact, in one memorable New Year’s Eve party, I was thrown out a window—but that’s anther story  Be t as it may, for those who still over-indulge, here is my treatise—again.

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