Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 43 of 83)

GRILLED STEAKS (Nuyorican Style)

The days are coming to precious few, but summer is still here. And grillin’ is still the norm. With that in mind, below are  two recipes for grilled steak (Biftec a la Parrilla). This is the Nuyorican way of doing it.  And here, a little historical perspective in order.  Prior to the arrival of the Americans in 1898, grilling as we know it, was not prevalent in Puerto Rico. Other Caribbean Islands did have barbacoa, but nothing like our barbecue with the grill and all the other accouterments.  Some state that the Carib Indians did have barbacoa, but it was for cooking human beings in ritual sacrifices. Not an appetizing idea.

Growing up in Spanish Harlem, we had no such thing as barbecue. But with Americanization, and when Boricuas started moving to the suburbs, it became as popular as elsewhere.  My parents and grandparents could not recall anyone doing outdoor grilling when they were growing up. But, once they came to the mainland, it took root.

Naturally, our grilling was, and is, different in that we utilized all the herbs and ingredients native to our cuisine. Thus our dishes come out a little more spicy and, to my mind, the better for it. The two dishes given are convenient that the ingredients used are probably in your cupboard already. Or they can be acquired with ease from the nearest store or greengrocer. The dishes call for 4 steaks, and any good steak variety can be used, be it strip steak, boneless rib-eye, filet mignon or other. They should be from 1 ¼ to 1½ inches thick, and about from 10 to 12 ounces each. The steaks should be grilled 3 to 5 minutes for medium rare (an internal temperature of 135 degrees F.),  5 to 7 minutes for medium (140 degrees F.), 8 to 10 minutes for medium-well (150 degrees F.). Turned once during cooking, and they should be slightly charred for medium-well. Also, transfer to a cutting board, and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.

This is classic barbecue, so the preferred beverage is beer or ale. If you desire a wine, then a fruity Chenin Blanc for a white. If you’ll partial to reds, then a zesty Zinfandel or a silky Pinot Noir. If you can’t make up your mind, then go with the compromise choice of almost everyone, a light vintage rosé.

BIFTEC A LA PARRILLA
(Grilled Steaks)

Method 1:

Brush steaks with olive oil (2 tablespoons). Combine 1 tablespoon ground black pepper; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1 tablespoon dried oregano (or 1 teaspoon dried); 1 tablespoons garlic powder; 1 tablespoon ground cumin; 1 tablespoon brown sugar; ½ teaspoon chili powder (optional). Season steaks with herb mix and grill on medium-high flame.

Method 2:

In a food processor, add ½ cup basil (or parsley or cilantro); 1 tablespoons fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried); 4 cloves garlic; 1 small onion, chopped; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; and ¼ cup olive oil. Chop for 1 minute until everything is finely diced.  Melt 3 tablespoons butter and sauté herb mix for about 2 minutes. Set aside. Season steaks with salt and black pepper to taste. Grill on medium-high until preferred doneness.  Serve steaks topped with the herb mixture.

TUNA BEAN SALAD

Ever since I was a youngster, I’ve always loved canned tuna fish. I can’t recall how many tuna fish sandwiches I’ve had throughout my long life. And always with lots of mayo on it. Unfortunately, my wife has a different view of canned tuna. To her mind (and certain studies do confirm that tuna, canned or otherwise, is among the seafood with the highest mercury content) tuna is verboten. Problem is, I still like tuna.  I may not eat as many tuna steaks as I once did but, occasionally, I still enjoy canned tuna. So, when she’s not watching, I’ll indulge my tuna jones.

And that is the genesis of today’s recipe. It’s a Tuna Bean Salad. Great for the current hot weather we’re having. Easy to prepare, and can be served at room temperature or chilled. It calls for a single can of tuna fish for 4 people; but you can  double it if desired and use 2 cans. Let me state that if you don’t have black beans on hand, you can substitute red kidney beans, white cannellini beans, or garbanzos (chick peas). The dish is served on a bed of greens. I used romaine lettuce, but any crisp salad greens can be utilized.  Some folks even add corn to it. You’re only limited by your imagination. Add a simple vinaigrette dressing, and you’re set. Enjoy!

And, for brother Ray, the perfect wine is a white: either Soave or Sauvignon blanc. Or, since it’s summer, a nice, cold ale.

Ingredients:

TUNA BEAN SALAD

1 (5-oz) can tuna, drained and flaked
1 (15.5-oz) can black beans, drained
1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced
Crisp salad greens

VINAIGRETTE DRESSING

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a bowl, combine tuna, beans, and red pepper.
  2.  In a cruet or small bowl, combine vinaigrette ingredients, and add to tuna-bean salad.
  3.  Place crisp greens on a  platter or salad bowl. Top with tuna-bean salad. Sprinkle with fresh basil, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

ENSALADA DE REMOLACHA (Beet Salad)

Recently a friend gave us a bunch of fresh beets that she had just grown in her garden. So, the question was, What do we do with beets? I guess one could make Borscht. What else? There’s always beet salad.  But you really have to like beets to eat beet salad. Beets, like some foods is an acquire taste. Kids do not like beets. I away s did (I was a weird kid). In the family we had Ensalada de Remolacha or Beet Salad. And we all loved it. It contained onion, tomato, lemon juice,  olive oil, and a little sugar. From the youngest to the oldest, we would scarf it up.The perfect side dish to steak, ham, chicken or lamb.

Kiddies, here it is, the the beet recipe everybody will love—by way of Nuyorican cuisine.

ENSALADA DE REMOLACHA
(Beet Salad)

Ingredients:

1 pound beets, trimmed of leaves
Salt to taste
1 small onion, slice into thin rounds
1 small tomato, about ¼ pound, cored and cut into thin slices
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil

Instructions:

  1. Put the beets in a kettle or saucepan, add water to cover and salt. Bring to  boil and let cook, uncovered, about 30 minutes or until beets are tender. Cooking time will depend on the size and age of the beets.
  2.  Drain the beets, peel them, and place in a bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix gently. Chill until ready to serve. Garnish with basil before serving..
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

LEMON-GARLIC GRILLED FISH FILLETS

With this spell of hot weather, grilling  has come to the fore. Here’s a recipe that is not your usual grilling scene. No steak, no burgers, no hotdogs. Instead we have fish fillets.  For the recipe given we used perch fillets. But any firm-fleshed fillets can be used: haddock, turbot, cod, even red snapper fillets. But not fillet of sole. It’s too fragile for grilling. Also, for those who like a heartier dish, you can also use fish steaks with this recipe. Just be cognizant of the cooking time:. for fish steaks, grill 10 minutes per inch of thickness.

For richer flavor, the fish needs to be marinated in a mixture that combines all the ingredients given. The longer it marinates, the better the flavor. It could be one hour. But we’ve discovered that the best  is three hours or longer.

So, light up the grill, whether charcoal or gas, and enjoy.

LEMON-GARLIC GRILLED FISH FILLETS

Ingredients:

2 pounds fish fillets
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1/4 cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Lemon wedges

Instructions:

  1. In a covered bowl or large zip-lock bag, combine all ingredients. Mix well. Add fish fillets to the marinade and refrigerate 3 hours. While in marinade, turn fillets several times.
  2. Preheat grill, and brush grill grate with salad oil.  Place fillets on grill, and cook 5-6 minutes, turning once. Fish is done when it it close to the point of flakiness. Remove from grill and serve with lemon wedges.
    Yield: 4-5 servings.

 

 

ONION-GARBANZO SALAD

I like chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans. And I like eggplant. So why not combine the two in a luscious recipe during these dog days of summer? It is the easiest dish to prepare. And you don’t have to mess with a hot stove. However, I’ve discovered that, to get the best out of an onion dish like this one, it’s a good idea to first soak the onion rings in water and ice. This will render crispy onions and a nuanced flavor, but not so over powering it will  negate the other ingredients. With some good crusty bead, this recipe is perfect for hot weather.

And, as my  fellow martial arts brother Ray, would insist, the perfect wine accompaniment would be a Meursault. It’s the top Burgandy white, but somewhat expensive. Otherwise, a good Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, or Soave will do.

ONION-GARBANZO SALAD

Ingredients:

1 large sweet onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings
Ice cubes and water
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Crisp Romaine leaves
1 green pepper, thinly sliced in rings
1 tomato, cut in slender wedges
1 can (10-oz) garbanzo beans, drained
½ cup black pitted olives, sliced in half
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

Instructions:

  1. Place onion rings in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt, add water to cover with four ice cubes. Let stand 30 minutes.
  2.  In a small bowl or cruet, stir and mix olive oil, vinegar, oregano and pepper.
  3.  Arrange Romaine leaves on a serving platter; and top with green peppers, tomato wedges, garbanzos and olives.
  4.  Drain the onion rings and lay out on paper toweling. Arrange over beans and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Spoon on dressing and serve.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

 

 

MACARONI SALAD

Summertime and the livin’ ain’t easy. Though it’s been a mild one thus far, the heat will come, that’s guaranteed (global warming deniers aside). Thus we think of salads for summer. And, for some time now, pasta salads have come to the fore. My favorite of these has always been that great perennial, Macaroni Salad. Nothing says better, pasta salad, than this one. It’s simple, it’s wonderful; and you can pack ’em with whatever you want be it herbs or vegetables.

I’ve experiment with this dish for years; and I’ve come up with what I consider one of the best renditions of all. For most, macaroni salad is just macaroni swimming in mayonnaise. If you like that, great. But I’ve discovered a novel variation: 1/2 mayonnaise and 1/2 sour cream. A marvelous combinations of flavors Add to it lime juice, seasoning, roasted  red peppers, cilantro and, for those who like to give it a kick, jalepeño pepper, and you’re set. Bring on summer!

Note that this dish can be served at room temperature or chilled. Your choice. If using at room temperature, it’s best to let the pasta sit for 20 minutes after preparing so as to let all the flavors come together. Some state that, if serving chilled, add a drizzle of olive oil and toss to have it glistening again.

MACARONI SALAD

1 pound package elbow macaroni
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup low fat sour cream
Juice of half a lime
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1 (7-oz) jar roasted red peppers, chopped
½ cup fresh chopped cilantro
1 jalepeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped (optional)

1. Cook elbow macaroni according to package directions. Drain under cold running water to cool.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, lime juice, salt, pepper, and oregano.
3. Add macaroni and toss to coat. Fold in roasted peppers, cilantro, and jalepeño, if using
Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

 

 

SAUSAGE WITH MINT

Middle Eastern cuisine utilizes such savories mint as mint and rose water in their cooking. I always found this fascinating.  Here in the west, the only time we use mint in with the Eater lamb, if that. And forget about the rose water. Thus it came to mind recently when I acquired some fresh mint. I said, okay, it’s nice. I like mint tea—but what else?

That’s when inspiration struck. I had some sausages on hand. And I decided: why not try sausages with mint? (And see what happens). Now, in this rendition any good sausage can used. It can be Italian, smoked, Andouille, bratwurst, beef sausage, even chicken or turkey sausage. It’s a simple enough dish to prepare: cook the sausage rounds in olive oil, onion rings and garlic; season to taste, add the mint and serve. We served it over Spanish yellow rice. But you can have it with potatoes, couscous, quinoa, or your favorite grain. Or make great sandwiches with it.

SAUSAGE WITH MINT

Ingredients:

1 pound pork sausage
1 red medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup fresh chopped mint

Instructions:

  1. Rinse sausages under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Cut into ½-inch rounds. Note that if you’re using Italian sausage, the casing must be removed before slicing.
  2. In a large skillet or fry pan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add sausage and onion. Stir fry until sausage is brown and onion is tender. Season with salt and pepper.  Add garlic, and cook two minutes more.
  3.  Add wine and cook, over high heat, until liquid evaporates, stirring frequently.
  4.  Remove from heat, stir in mint, and serve over favorite grain.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

FISH FILLETS WITH SOUR CREAM AND HERBS

There are those occasions where you have to do with what’s in the fridge. So it happened that I had some leftover sour cream, and needed to utilize it before the thing expired. Same  for some fish fillets that we had purchased.

Now, the most common and quickest way to combine these ingredients, is to bake the fillets topped with sour cream. But I decided to try something different. Rather than having to use the oven, since it is summer, I decided on steaming the fish. And then serve it with the sour cream packed with fresh herbs. Summertime is when fresh herbs abound in the market. This made it a no-brainer  The herbs I used were scallions, chives, dill, parsley and basil. But you can use whatever fresh herbs are available in your grocer. By the way, if you don’t have or don’t like sour cream, then mayonnaise, that old reliable, can be substituted. If you’re health conscious, you can use yogurt (plain not flavored).

The fish can be served hot or, as I prefer, room temperature. I turn off the heat and let the fillets stand  in the cooking broth while preparing the sour cream with herbs. Then I drain the fish and serve it lukewarm. It goes better with the summer weather. And it goes without saying, any firm-fleshed white fillets go with this dish. I used haddock fillets; but turbot, cod, pollack, tilapia, bass, snapper, or even sole can be used.

FISH FILLETS WITH SOUR CREAM AND HERBS

Ingredients:

For Fish Fillets:

2 pounds skinless, boneless fish fillets
8 whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 small onion, peeled and cut into thin rings
¼ cup white vinegar
½ teaspoon dried thyme
6 sprigs fresh parsley

For Sour Cream with Herbs:

1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon mustard (preferably imported)
Juice of half a lemon
2 tablespoons finely chopped scallions
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

Instructions:

  1. Place fillets in a layer in a skillet or pan. Add water to cover, peppercorns, bay leaf, onion, vinegar, thyme and parsley. Cover, bring to  a boil, and let simmer 5 minutes.
  2.  Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the herb sour cream. Blend well with a fork or hand beater.
  3.  Drain fish, place in a serving dish and serve with the herb sour cream.
    Yield: 4 servings.

PORK PATTIES WITH RICE NOODLES

We recently purchased some pork patties from the the LeBlank Family farm in Vermont. What made these patties interesting is that they are flavored with maple. So we thought, um, great, pork patties. Now, patties are the easiest thing to cook. Fry them in butter or olive oil, and serve with a side vegetable. But, then, inspiration struck, and I decided on something different. I decided to cook ’em Vietnamese style.

I’ve been a fan of Vietnamese cuisine since my tour in ‘Nam back during the Vietnam War. Those days are long gone, thank the gods; and now I can experiment with their vibrant cuisine. I decided to prepare the patties with Nuoc Cham, a sweet-sour combination of fish sauce, garlic, sugar and lime juice very prevalent in Vietnamese cooking. Think of garam masala in Indian cooking, and the proverbial salsa in Mexican cooking.

The dish worked very well.  I added rice noodles to the mix plus a western twist, zucchini slices (we happened to have some zucchini on hand). For this recipe you can use prepared beef, turkey or chicken patties. Or you can make your own. Your choice. You can even utilize hamburger patties, if desired. Just adjust the cooking time to the size of the meat. The patties can also be done on a grill. This is the season for it. On a charcoal grill, heat coals until hot, and cook patties, about 5 minutes, turning once during grilling. On a gas grill, turn all burners to high, cover and cook patties 3 to 4 minutes per side.

PORK PATTIES WITH RICE NOODLES

Ingredients:

1 small green chili (or Thai chili), stemmed and minced
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1/4 cup hot water
5 tablespoons fish sauce (can be found in any Asian market or even most supermarkets these days)
Juice of 1 lime
1 medium-sized zucchini, peeled and thinly sliced, then slices cut in half
4 pork patties (or chicken, turkey, beef—whatever you have on hand), 4-5 ounces each, abut 1
pound
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces rice vermicelli or rice noodles
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

Instructions:

  1. Bring a large  of water to boil (at least 4 quarts).
  2. While water is boiling, in small bowl, combine the chili, sugar, garlic, water, fish sauce, and lime juice. Stir to mix until sugar is dissolved and set aside.
  3.  In a pan or skillet, heat olive oil, and cook patties over medium heat until browned (about 3-4 minutes per side). Place on a plate or dish with paper towels to drain, and set aside.
  4. Add noodles to boiling water and cook until tender. Usually this means placing noodles in boiling water, cover, turn the heat off and let stand for 3-4 minutes. Loosen with a fork, drain, rinse with cold water, and you’re set.
  5.  Place noodles in a platter or serving dish. Arrange zucchini slices on top. Drizzle with the fish sauce. Sprinkle with the chopped mint; and top with pork patties.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Berenjena Trito – Fried Eggplant

Back in Spanish Harlem, during our lean times, eggplant was one of the things we most enjoyed. It was cheap (still is, and highly versatile). I was amazed when I discovered from my Italian friends that you could incorporate in such things as eggplant parmigiana. Or in Indian cuisine, as in Ola, where you could bake it with yogurt. But I still hankered for the old Puerto Rican method of simple fried eggplant. This is one of the easiest dish to prepare, and not only for the vegan among us.

One of the hallowed rules concerning eggplant is that, prior to coking. It must be drained. That is done by peeling the eggplant, cutting into thin slices, sprinkling with salt and piling it on a plate. Then the slices are covered by another plate and set aside for about 30 minutes.  Finally, the slices are wiped cleaned and they are ready to be cooked. In our family we never enacted this ritual. Personally I think it’s a waste of time. Of course there are those who profess  the worthiness of this procedure, and more power to them. We’ve been making eggplant or way for generations; and we’ve never had any complaints.

In this recipe, I’ve given two ways to prepare eggplant: one with bread or cracker crumbs and eggs, and one with flour. Either one is just as good. Also, one can cut the eggplant into slices, if you have a large vegetable. Or, you can slice them lengthwise, if you have a small eggplants. In the recipe given, we’ve sliced them in the latter fashion. In all cases, the recipe yields 4 or more servings.

Added note: This recipe is from my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Running Press, Perseus Books).  If you enjoy Caribbean cooking, this book is it.

BERENJENA FRITA
(Fried Eggplant)

Method 1:

1 large eggplant or 3 small ones
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup bread or cracker crumbs
Salt and ground pepper to taste
¾ cup olive oil

1. Peel eggplant and trim off the ends. Cut eggplant into ¼-inch slices  or lengthwise, if preferred.
2. In a bowl, combine eggs with bread crumbs. Dip slices in egg-bread crumb mixture.
3. In a skillet or frying pan, heat olive oil and fry eggplant slices over moderate -low heat until golden brown and crisp.
4. Drain on paper towels and serve

Method 2:

1 large eggplant or 3 small ones
¼ cup flour
Salt and ground black pepper
¾ olive oil

1. Peel eggplant and trim off ends. Cut eggplant into ¼-inch slices or lengthwise.
2. Sprinkle slices with flour, salt and pepper.
3. In a skillet or pan, heat olive oil and fry eggplant over moderate-low heat until golden brown.
4. Drain on paper towels and serve.

 

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