Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 50 of 83)

Pasta with Pancetta

September 21, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Pancetta is a pork product very popular in Italy. In some circles it’s called Italian bacon. Along with prosciutto, it’s very common in the Italian kitchen. It is made from pork meat that is salt cured and spiced with lots of black pepper. In a the supermarket or deli it comes in a tight roll (arrotolata), or already cubed. It can even be found sliced paper thin.

If you can’t find pancetta, bacon can be substituted—but it won’t taste the same. Also, with bacon, it’s best to blanch it first in boiling water since it reduces its smoky flavor (pancetta is not a smoked product). That being said, the recipe given below can be done with almost any pasta but it’s usually served with spaghetti or linguini. Once in a while, if I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll use perciatelli, my favorite string pasta. Why? It’s thick, like a phone cable—and I love what my Uncle Phillip in pre-PC days would call a “manly pasta.”

One additional thing I must say, since we’re talking about pasta: remember in the old days when it came in one pound boxes? More and more it’s now 12 ounces. When did this crap start? Ronzoni, bless their heart, still comes in one pound boxes. Barilla does not (it’s 13.25 ounces). Everyone else, these days, is 12 ounces. Pretty soon it’ll be 9 ounces, then 8 . . . you get the idea. Someday a family of four will have to buy two boxes of spaghetti or whatever to get fed. If you’re lucky enough to find a place that sells fresh pasta, you can still get it by the pound—and even if it’s more expensive, it’s a better deal. The corporate structure (no surprise!) is out to gyp us.

I pound tomatoes (preferably plum tomatoes)
10-8 ounces pancetta or lean bacon, sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 pound fresh or dried spaghetti or linguini (if you can find a 1-pound box)
5 fresh marjoram sprigs, minced, or 1/4 teaspoon dried
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup fresh shredded basil
Freshly grated Pecorino or Romano cheese

1. Wash tomatoes under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Chop coarsely.
2. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add pancetta and stir-fry over low heat until fat is rendered.
3. Stir in onion and cook gently for 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook 2-3 minutes more.
4. Add tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered for about 10 minutes, stirring well. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package instructions.
5. Stir the marjoram into the sauce. Remove from heat. Drain the pasta into a serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss well. Sprinkle with shredded basil, and serve, passing around the Pecorino or Romano cheese.
Yield: 4 servings.

Greek-Style Lamb Chops

Lamb has long been a staple in our clan. We usually cook it the Nuyorican way: spices such as garlic, peeper, oregano and garlic are crushed in a mortar then patted on the lamb chops along with some olive oil and red wine vinegar. Yet we are always on the lookout for news ways to prepare this favorite. Thus I came across this Greek-Style recipe. It’s similar to Pureto Riucan cooking in terms of the spices used, except that my Greek acquaintances insist that in terms of oregano, only Greek oregano is mandated. Okay. When in Rome . . .

The beauty of this recipe is that it can be done on top of the stove, or using the broiler, or on an outdoor grilled. Be aware that, if grilling, omit the wine part. Or, you can use the wine in the marinade prior to grilling. Whichever way you choose to prepare, the recipe is a home run, or touchdown (insert whatever sports metaphor you desire).

3 to 4 pounds lamb chops (loin or rib), about 1-inch thick
3 tablespoons dried oregano, preferably Greek
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and black ground pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1. Wash chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. With a knife or fork, prick chops on both sides.
3. Combine oregano, garlic, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Rub spices on each side of lamb chops and drizzle with olive oil. Place in a covered bowl or zip-lock bag and marinate for at least 2 hours in the fridge or preferably overnight.
4. Melt butter in a large skillet or fry pan over medium heat. Add chops and cook for 4-5 minutes on each side, turning once or twice. Add wine, cover, and cook an additional 5 minutes. The wine will boil and thickened around the lamb, and that is what you want to increase the flavor. Add more wine , if necessary. Place on serving platter and let stand 2-3 minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 servings or more.

Fish Fillets with Mushroom Ragout

August 26, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I didn’t discover this concept of ragout (pronounced “ragoo”) until my early manhood. I went to a restaurant on the west side of Manhattan and asked what is this “rag-out” thing. My friends corrected me as to the pronunciation, and we ordered the thing. Subsequently, I learned that “ragout” comes from the French verb ragoûter, which roughly translates “to stimulate the appetite.” It’s mainly a seasoned, thick stew of meat, poultry or fish which may or may not contain vegetables. To confuse you more, ragu, also derived from ragout, is a popular dish in Italy’s Bologna region and is served with pasta. It’s main ingredients are ground beef and tomatoes, with some onions, carrots and wine wine thrown in.

The dish given below is a traditional ragout made with fish fillets and mushrooms. In the recipe I use perch fillets. But you can substitute cod, haddock, turbot, or any light firm-fleshed fillets. For the mushrooms, I use the oyster variety; but you can use cremini, shiitake, chanterelle, or a mix of mushrooms. Now, some people may add cream to their ragout. I’m told by a diehard, utterly traditional chef that never may you add cream to the ragout. It is “sacrilege, sacré bleu!” I’m not fascistic in my cooking, so, if you want to add cream, or anything else you think will improve the flavor, go right ahead. The subject of good cuisine is to constantly experiment. That’s the real joy of cooking. Also, and this will drive the traditionalists nuts, this is my Latino version of the dish. Muchas gracias.

FISH FILLETS WITH MUSHROOM RAGOUT

5 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound oyster mushrooms, washed and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 small shallot, sliced thinly
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped dill
4 6-ounce fish fillets
Salt and black ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup hot water

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet or fry pan (I prefer cast-iron). Add mushrooms and sauté until tender, about 4-5 minutes.
2. Add garlic, shallot, and 1 tablespoon butter. Cook until garlic and shallot are softened, about 1 minute.
3. Add chicken stock, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half and slightly viscous, about 4-5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and cook another 30 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in dill. Cover, and keep warm.
4. Wash fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, and oregano, patting seasonings into the fish.
Place fish in a roasting pan. Add water and 1 tablespoon butter. Bake until fish is tender, about 10 minutes.
5. Place fillets in a serving dish, spoon mushroom ragout over fish, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Caribbean Grilled Steak

August 4, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Grilling steaks can be the easiest or the most difficult thing depending upon how you go at it. The result can be a charred-burnt out piece of leather, or a raw, bleeding mess. The trick is to watch it carefully as it grills. The recipe given below is the Boricua way of grilling meat. That is, it uses all the herbs associated with Caribbean cuisine. Of course, you can add other spices as you desire. It’s all in the taste buds.

The recipe can be termed a peppercorn steak, or as they say in fancy-dan argot, “au poivre.” This consists of steak, normally filet mignon, cooked with cracked pepper, usually green peppercorns. In our cooking its black whole peppercorns.

Here we go again: in traditional Puerto Rican cuisine, we crush the spices in a mortar and pestle, to give it that extra zing. In you don’t own or have a mortar, then substitute ground pepper and salt to taste along with 1 tablespoon oregano, add 1 teaspoon garlic powder—and you’re set to go.

In terms of what meat to use, if you can afford filet mignon, go right ahead, and more power to you. Those of us who are less well-heeled can use other variety meats like strip steaks, cut about 1 1/2-inch thick. I use porterhouse steaks—believe it or not, I got them on sale.

CARIBBEAN GRILLED STEAK

4 porterhouse steaks, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds
3/4 cup whole peppercorns
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 teasppoon red wine vinegar
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup chopped scallions
2 cups beef broth
1 (3 1/2-ounce) jar capers, rinsed

1. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano, and salt. Mix in olive oil and vinegar. Brush steaks on both sides with this mixture.
2. Place steaks on grill, cover with lid, and cook on each side 4-5 minutes or until desired doneness.
3. Melt butter in a skillet or fry pan. Add scallions and sauté about 1 minute. Add broth and capers, and cook until liquid is reduced by half, about 10-15 minutes. Serve over grilled steaks.
Yield: 4 servings.

Dressing Up Potato Salad

July 21, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Potato salad is everywhere during the summer—in Church socials, picnics, barbecues, outdoor grilling, you name it. And usually it’s always the same: boiled and cubed potatoes drenched in mayonnaise with some salt and pepper. But there are ways to dress up this favorite so it doesn’t get boring.

Basic potato salad involves placing 1-2 pounds potatoes (could be either new potatoes, russets, or specialty potatoes) in cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are tender (10-15 minutes, depending on size). Drain under cold running water, cut in half, quarter or slice, and gently toss with the desired dressing. My preference is for the potatoes not be peeled. They should be cooked with their skins on. Nothing could be easier. It’s how you dress them up that counts. Following are some ways to dress up the spuds and give this common dish some new zing.

Basic Salad Dressing

In a bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon fresh oregano (or 1 teaspoon dried), and salt and pepper to taste. Toss with the potatoes and serve.

Chimichurri Potato Salad

To the basic Salad Dressing above, add 1 small red or green chili; 1 clove minced garlic; 1/4 cup chopped scallions; and 4 strips of lemon zest, thinly sliced.

Potato Egg Salad

In a large bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons sour cream; 2 tablespoons mayonnaise; 1 teaspoon white vinegar; 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped. Stir in 4 large hard-boiled eggs, chopped; and 2 half-sour pickles, cut into 1/4-inch pieces. Toss with the potatoes, and serve.

German Potato Salad (an Old World favorite)

In a large bowl, mix together 1 teaspoon brown sugar, 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard, 2 tablespoons white vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Toss lightly with the potatoes and serve.
Note: In some recipes, 1 cup sour cream and 1/2 cup thinly sliced cucumber is added to the potatoes. Then paprika is sprinkle over the dish and served.

Waldorf Potato Salad

(Presumably created by chef Oscar Tschirky of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York sometime in the 1890s)

In a large bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons sour cream; 2 tablespoons mayonnaise; 1 tablespoon white vinegar; 1 tablespoon whole grain mustard. Toss with the potatoes and add 1 cup small red grapes (cut in half); 4 stalks thinly sliced celery; and 1/2 cup toasted and chopped walnuts.

There you have it. Go at it, and enjoy.

Fish Rubs for Grilling

July 12, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Grilling season again. Temperatures rise and so does the need for al fresco cooking. In my circle I’m the oddball since I prefer grilling seafood. The usual burgers, hotdogs, chicken is alright, but to me, the height of ecstasy is a good grilled fish steak, or fillet. It’s amazing what one can do grilling-wise with something from the sea.

A great method of grilling fish is via seafood rubs. Simply rub the herbs and condiments into the fish, let the mixture stand 5-15 minutes, and cook. In every case, it’s always best to cut large steaks or fillets into meal-size portions so that they will be easy to turn when grilling. Brush the fish very lightly with olive oil before cooking; and always start grilling with the skin side up. Turn the fish once during cooking. It’s easiest to slide a metal spatula under the fish and turn. And most important, cook fish about 5-8 minutes per inch of thickness. Of course, if it’s a thin fillet, use less time. Cook until it’s sightly opaque in color. To be sure, jab the fish with a fork in the thickest part to check for doneness. Always remove from heat soon as it turns translucent.

For the grilling itself, common sense always applies. Seafood cooks best over a medium-hot fire. Also, make sure the grill is hot before cooking; and brush some vegetable oil on the grill prior to cooking.

Below are given four rubs for seafood. The seafood can be either 4 fish steaks (about 6 ounces each; fish fillets (about 1 1/2 pounds); or a whole fish, cleaned and scaled (2-3 pounds). If you need more condiments or herbs, adjust accordingly. Still, it’s up to you. Don’t go by what I say. If you’re adventurous, try to create your own blend. Almost every culture has a seafood rub. Experiment and enjoy.

Basic Caribbean Rub

Squeeze juice of half lemon over fish. Rub fish with 2 tablespoons fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried) ; 3 cloves garlic, finely minced; salt and ground black pepper to taste. Brush with 2 tablespoons olive oil, and grill.

Indian Rub

Blend 1 tablespoon garam masala; 1 teaspoon brown sugar; 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder; 1/4 teaspoon paprika; and salt to taste. Run onto fish; sprinkle with olive oil and cook.

Chipotle Rub (For those who like it hot)

Blend 1 tablespoon chipotle chilies (can use canned chilies, if desired, and remove seeds if you want reduced heat); 2 tablespoons brown sugar; 3 cloves minced garlic. Rub into fish. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons white vinegar, and grill.

Asian Rub

Combine 2 tablespoons honey; 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger; juice of half a lime; 2 teaspoons soy sauce; 1 clove finely minced garlic; and 1/2 cup sliced scallions. Rub into fish and grill.

Biftec Empanado – Breaded Beefsteak

July 5, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

For the longest time in Puerto Rico, before the advent of American style fast food joints, breaded steaks were a popular staple in mom-and-pop takeout places. These emporiums were called cafetines or “little cafes,” and almost every town had one. Here the breaded steaks were enjoyed by the regulars. The idea transferred to the mainland and the cafetines became cuchifrito places, and they abounded at one time in what was called Spanish Harlem in New York. Today the term used is East Harlem, and most of the cafetines are gone, along with the migration of second generation Puerto Ricans to Florida.

I’m nostalgic for those old take-out places. They would serve the breaded steaks with french fries, or as a sandwich in a roll or Italian bread. At home we would have it as an entrée with rice and beans. In the old neighborhood, biftec empanado was prepared two ways: either with bread crumbs or cracker crumbs. I knew of one individual who mixed cracker crumbs with corn flakes. And the rule of thumb was always that the meat should be cut thin. Some neighbors pounded the meat into the thinness of scalopine. In my family, we preferred thicker bictec empanado–and I still make it this way. Let me add that, for those who are shy of beef, chicken breasts or cutlets can be substituted.

In the recipe given, we do it the traditional criollo way by pounding all the spices in a mortar and pestle. If you’re a modernista, or don’t own a mortar and pestle, you can blend minced garlic cloves, the oregano, black pepper and salt to taste, along with olive oil and vinegar, and rub that onto the steaks. Then follow the rest of the recipe as given.

BIFTEC EMPANADO
(Breaded Beefsteak)

4 club steaks or beef round steaks (8 ounces per steak, about 1/2-inch thick)
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
12 whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon vinegar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup bread crumbs
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Put garlic cloves, oregano, peppercorns and salt in a mortar. Pound with a pestle until crushed.
Add olive oil and vinegar and mix thoroughly.
3. Rub the seasoning into the steaks.
4. Dip each slice in the eggs, then coat with bread crumbs, pressing crumbs into both sides with the heel of the hand.
5. Heat oil in a large skillet, frying pan or deep fryer until golden brown (about 4-5 minutes depending upon thickness). Drain on absorbent paper towel and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Calamares Frito – Fried Squid

June 25, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In Puerto Rican cuisine the main dish involving squid is arroz con calamares or rice with squid. Or, as we call it in our family, “black rice.” The reason for that is that the ink from the squid gives a dark color to the rice. This was my father’s favorite dish. It combined two things he loved: seafood and rice. We also have calamares frito or fried squid.

Fried squid is popular in Mediterranean cooking. Both Greek and Italian cuisine have a version of it. Ours is not that much different: the squid, both tentacles and body, is cut into small pieces or ringlets, dredged in seasoned flour or bread crumbs, and deep fried. The seasoning varies. We add oregano and parsley to ours, other recipes may use cilantro or thyme. It’s all a matter of taste.

This is one of the easiest dish to prepare—that is, if you buy already cleaned squid, which can be found these days in almost any supermarket or food shop. If you do have access to already cleaned squid, then purchase a whole squid from your fishmonger (note that one pound whole squid yields about 1/2 pound of cleaned calamari). Rinse the squid, tentacles and all, under cold running water. Cut the tentacles, which are near the eyes, and remove from the head. Reserve the tentacles since they are considered the choicest morsel. Remove and discard the mouth which is located in the center of the tentacles. Next, rub off the purplish outer skin of the body under cold running water with your hands. Hold the closed end of the body (also called the mantle) in one hand and with the other squeeze out the innards, pushing out the viscera, head and translucent backbone. Turn body inside out. Discard viscera, head and bone. Wash the inside of the body thoroughly. Lay the body on a flat surface and slice down the center from the bottom. Spread open and cut into bite-sized pieces or strips. Cut tentacles into rounds. That’s it. Another way of removing the viscera from the squid is to feel inside the body with one hand and simply pull out the innards, rather than using the toothpaste method of squeezing forward. Whichever way you do it, after washing and cutting the squid is set for cooking.

CALAMARES FRITO
(Fried Squid)

1 1/2 pounds cleaned squid with tentacles, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 cups flour
2 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano, or 1 tablespoon dried
Salt an freshly ground back pepper to taste
1/2 cup fresh parsley
2 lemons, cut into wedges
Vegetable oil for frying

1. In a large bowl, mix the flour, oregano, salt, pepper, and parsley.
2. Toss squid in floor mixture to coat, shaking off excess flour.
3. Pour oil in a heavy bottomed pan or skillet to about the depth of 3 inches. Heat over medium heat. Working in batches, add squid and fry until golden brown and crisp, about 1-2 minutes.
4.With tongs or slotted spoon, transfer calamares to a plate lined with paper towels
Yield: 4 servings.

Creole Burgers

June 1, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Long before the advent of McDonald’s, Wendy’s and Burger King, hamburgers served in Puerto Rico came replete with onions, lettuce and tomatoes. And on plain rolls, not the usual hamburger buns. This transferred over with the first great migration to the mainland in the 1950s. This was the essence of what of what we call “Creole Hamburgers.”

Naturally, this all changed with the coming of the fast food joints. So that today on the island, just as in the mainland, wherever you go, it’s the trendy fast food abomination that rules. Thank the gods that in my tribe we still prefer burgers the old fashioned way—large and spicy. The archetypal “hamburgesa criollo.” And, yes, traditionally, we crush the spices in a mortar, a cooking instrument ubiquitous in our cuisine. For the newer foodies out there, a mortar and pestle, weather, stainless steel, aluminum, or wood, can be found in any Asian or Caribbean food market, or even in a good hardware store.

CREOLE BURGERS

1 pound lean ground beef (can substitute ground chicken or turkey, if preferred)
10 whole black peppercorns
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon fresh oregano, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon vinegar
2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1. Place meat in a bowl.
2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in one tablespoon of the olive oil and vinegar.
3. Add spices to the meat and mix thoroughly.
4. Shape into hamburger patties.
5. Heat remaining olive oil and butter in a heavy skillet. Add patties and cook over medium-high heat, about 3 minutes per side for rare and 5 minutes per side for medium-rare.
6. Serve on plain or seeded roll, or toasted English muffin. Top with tomato slices and lettuce, and go at it. What we kids did (which use to drive my mother nuts) was splatter gobs of mayonnaise on the bun rather than use ketchup or mustard. To each his own.
Yield: 4 servings.

Pollo Al Gallego – Galician Style Chicken

May 21, 2016 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

This recipe is a contribution from our beloved Uncle Phillip. In our family, Uncle Phillip was the black sheep, and he was bigger than life. A von vivant, ladies’ man, and raconteur extraordinaire. And also a fabulous cook. Uncle Phillip was a merchant seaman, and he was a cook aboard ship. That’s how he learned about cuisine. He was always on the lookout for unique recipes. Yet, like Puerto Ricans of the old school, he had this thing about Spain. To the Boricuas of his and my parents generation, Spain was the “Mother Country.” Figures since Spain owned Puerto Rico for hundreds of years before the coming of the Americans in 1898. So anything having to do with Spain, was sacrosanct, especially its cuisine. For instance, to this day, the measurement of any restaurant in Puerto Rico is not its paella or pasteles but caldo gallego, a smooth, vigorous soup.

Galicia is a maritime province in Northern Spain, thus the Gallego appellation, as in the chicken dish given below. We assumed that’s where Uncle Phillip picked up the recipe, and it has remained a favorite in our family for ages. What’s interesting about this recipe is that originally it was prepared with bone-in chicken breasts. After the chicken breasts were roasted, the meat was removed from the bone. That’s how Uncle Phillip did it. I’ve discovered that whole, boneless chicken breasts work just as well, are easier to prepare, and are just as tasty.

Here it is. For dinner tonight take a trip to the Iberian peninsula. In our family, the dish was traditionally served over steamed rice. But it can also complement any other grain, potatoes, or even pasta. The dish calls for paprika. I prefer Hungarian paprika which is medium-hot. Uncle Phillip preferred the milder Spanish paprika. Use whatever suits you best. With a good Rioja wine, the dish is heaven.

POLLO AL GALLEGO
(Galician Style Chicken)

3 pounds whole chicken breasts
2 teaspoons paprika
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 bay leaf
Pinch of cayenne pepper (about 1/8 teaspoon)
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chicken broth or bouillon
8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Wash chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each breast in half lengthwise.
3. Sprinkle chicken with 1/2 teaspoon paprika. Place in a shallow roasting pan and bake approximately 25 minutes or until golden brown.
4. Meanwhile, in a small pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Add garlic and bay leaf. Sauté until garlic turns brown (do not burn). Add remaining paprika, cayenne pepper, flour and salt. Mix well and slowly add chicken bouillon or broth. Bring to a boil, gently stirring to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly. When the sauce is done, remove bay leaf.
5. Arrange breasts on a serving platter and pour sauce over chicken. Garnish with olives, either whole or sliced in half, and serve.
Yield: 4 or more servings.

Author, Warrior, and Teacher