Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 56 of 83)

The Rap Against Merlot – Why?

Recently at a local wine shop, while perusing for some favorites, I came across a Merlot that was on sale. By sale, I mean, an actual SALE. Bottles were going for $4.99. I said, What? $4.99? This must be some mistake—and who would buy this stuff? Probably it’s a Chateau East River Plonk 2015 that’s as tasteful as urine. I reasoned the owner of the store just wanted to get rid of the leftover Merlot in his cellar. After all, who drinks Merlot these days?

That is true. “Mer—lot” (as the guys back on the block once called it) has gotten a bad rap lately. And to which I must admit I had fallen victim to. In my circle, high or low, most acquaintances do not drink that much Merlot anymore. It may have to do with changing tastes, fashion, new lifestyles, whatever. It wasn’t always so. Back in the, seventies, eighties, and even into the nineties, Merlot, I recall, was a popular wine to drink. Along with Chardonnay, it was the go-to varietal most people cotton to whether at a party or a restaurant. Then, as suddenly, it fell out of favor. People (and by that, I mean mainly Americans) began discovering Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and, most recently, Malbec. Merlot became the also-ran. “Sophisticates” began spurn it. To be honest, it didn’t help that winemakers (mainly from California), impress by the initial demand for Merlot, began flooding the market with wine of inferior quality. But the final nail in the coffin came with the release in 2004 of the movie Sideways. It it, wine snob Miles Raymond, played by Paul Giamatti, in one of the movie’s key scenes, goes into a diatribe on Merlot: “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I’m not drinking any fucking Merlot!” I have to admit, I stopped drinking Merlot after that.

Now, here I was faced by this $4.99 ogre. I said to myself, This must suck a big one if they’re selling it for five bucks. Then I noticed that it came from Chile, not California. It was a Carta Vieja 2013 Merlot from the Loncomilla Valley—which is one of central Chile’s great viticultural regions. It has some of the better vineyards around and makes great quality wines. I figured, How bad can this wine be? As I discovered later, it happens to be the second most popular wine from the Loncomilla. I decided to buy it. If nothing else, I could use it as a cooking wine. Imagine my surprise when I tasted it. The wine had flavors of plum and raspberries. It was full and balanced, and expressive on the palate with notes of vanilla and caramel. Wow! Not bad for an East River plonk.

I began to rethink my conception of Merlot. If a cheapo could be this good, imagine what a higher premium Merlot could be like?—even from California. I started out seeking various offerings. And again, was pleasantly surprise at Merlot’s pedigree. I began with Chile again, with the Los Rosales Chapel Vineyard Reserve 2010 Merlot from one of the oldest estates in Chile. A fabulous wine, silky and smooth with a spicy aroma and fruit-filled finish. Then on to the Patriots 2009 Merlot from Chile’s Maipo Valley, floral with fruit aromas and a velvety taste that goes great with a juicy steak. Then on to California with a Pinegrove 2010 Merlot from Sonoma: aromas of plum and dark cherries and flavors of fine fruit, cinnamon and vanilla. Also from the same county, Sonoma Vineyards 2010 Merlot: full-bodied, smooth, strong and rich. I also discovered that Washington State has great Merlot’s—like the Bergevin Lane Entwined 2011 offering: rich with ripe cherry and plum flavors, and lots of oak which gives it a floral spice. Finally, from Argentina (where Malbec is king), the Schroeder Estate 2012 from the Patagonia region. It’s smooth and easy on the tongue with aromas of anise and fresh mint. The taste, as with any great Merlot, is soft and silky with hints of dark berry. It is considered one of the top two or three Merlots from anywhere in the world.

Listen, I’m not asking to go out and buy top of the line stuff. It’s not needed. A good, reputable wine merchant will guide you to a moderately priced Merlot that will make you rethink your view of this choice wine. Forget about the “sophisticates” with their noses in the air. Give Merlot another try. Who knows, you might be lucky enough to come across a $4.99 bargain and your world may change yet again.

Salud!

The Easter Ham

April 3, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Here we are again, the Easter holidays. This year, as has happened before, Easter and Passover are in close conjunction. This year, Passover begins on Saturday. Good Friday is the day before. Most Christians do not know (or conveniently forget) that the Last Supper was a Passover dinner wherein the Good Lord hosted his disciples before his crucible in Golgotha (according to the gospel of Matthew). The gospel of Luke calls it Calvary. Be it as it may, Easter dinner was a big deal in our family back in East Harlem. And it was always lamb. Sometimes my mother would make lamb and a roast pork shoulder (pernil) for those who didn’t like lamb. But lamb was the mainstay.

It wasn’t until I traveled down South that I discovered that ham was the biggie. And by that I mean a big, juicy Smithfield ham. This ham is a specific type of ham that comes from Virginia. It is usually a country ham that been naturally cured in salt and brown sugar. The other type is a smoked ham, which is cured in a brine consisting of sugar, salt and spices, and are fully cooked. You get them bone-in (with the bone) or boneless for easy slicing. Of course, if all fails or you can’t get these items, then there is canned ham, like Spam, but larger. This is the last option, short of death. There is also what is know as “Virginia ham.” This is similar to the Smithfield, but it does not come from Smithfield Virginia proper.

Now that I’ve got you properly confused, let me say that I used a smoked ham for the following recipe. It’s the only type I could get at the time. And it wasn’t too bad. In fact, it was pretty good since I cooked it in maple syrup ( a suggestion from my wife—who loves maple syrup, especially from Vermont). The recipe is amazingly easy, and the result are fabulous. Not the Nuyorican pernil, but a good substitute.

BAKED HAM

1 smoked ham (3-4 pounds)
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 stick butter
1/3 cup maple syrup

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
2. Prick ham all over with the tines of a fork; and rub with ground cloves.
3. In a small saucepan, heat the butter over medium-low heat. Add the maple syrup and combine.
4. Rub ham with maple-butter mixture, using a brush or, of you don’t have a brush, using your hands.
5. Place in a baking pan and bake 15 minutes per pound or until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees.
6. Place in serving dish or platter and slice thinly.
Yield: 4 servings.

Black Sea Cucumber – Odessa Style

March 27, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Once in a while I get a hankering for a vegetarian meal. Then I usually stir-fry greens: broccoli, spinach, green beans—the usual suspects. I add onion and garlic, and my favorite Nuyorican spices: oregano, pepper, recao, etc. and serve it over rice or some such grain. Recently, I deviated from my norm. I whipped up Black Sea Cucumbers, Odessa Style. I acquired this recipe years ago—and I can’t recall from where. I’ve never been to the Black Sea region, or Odessa, which is in the Ukraine. I have no conception of their cuisine, but the recipe is termed “Odessa” style. Thus I assume it is a Ukrainian or Russian variant. Now, there is something known as the Black Sea Cucumber, or Lollyfish, which is a species of marine invertebrate. But this has no relation whatsoever to the vegetable cucumber. So, how this dish, which uses average cucumbers, came to be called Black Sea Cucumber – Odessa Style, I have no idea. If somebody out there knows the origins of this dish, let me know.

The recipe is fairly easy to prepare. And it can be served as an appetizer. But, as noted, I serve over it rice, couscous, or pasta. It makes a great veggie meal. If you want to follow in the Odessa vein, forgo the wine and serve it with a good chilled vodka. Make believe you’re one of the Romanovs, vacationing in the Black Sea and dining on this dish—before the Revolution, of course.

BLACK SEA CUCUMBER – ODESSA STYLE

8 average cucumbers
1 large onion, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup mushrooms, washed and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 1/2 cups beef broth or stock
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
Salt to taste (preferably sea salt)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon caraway seed (optional)

1. Peel and slice the cucumbers. Place them in a pan or pot with cold, salted water to cover. Let stand 1 hour to firm them up.
2. In a large pan or skillet, heat the butter. Add the onion, mushrooms and garlic, and saute until the vegetables are lightly browned.
3. Drain cucumbers and add them to the onion pan.
4. In a medium bowl, combine the beef broth, tablespoon butter and flour; and thicken slightly, working into a smooth roux. Add to the pan, and simmer over low heat until the cucumbers are tender (about 4-5 minutes).
5. Season with salt and cayenne; and add the sour cream. Increase heat and bring gently to a boil. Add a sprinkling of caraway seed, if desired, and serve.
Yield: 6 servings.

Nuyorican Shrimp with Garlic

March 21, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In my family, back on the block, when we had shrimp, it was cooked either of two way: Camarones con Cebolla (shrimp with onion) or Camarones con Ajo (shrimp with garlic). Of these two dishes, my favorite was camarones con ajo. I love garlic. So did my father. Vampires would have a hard time getting close to us. And whatever leftover shrimp there was, we would have the next day in sandwiches.

I’ve discovered that in Spain, shrimp in garlic sauce is a popular dish in Galicia. That was probably the origin of our Puerto Rican shrimp dish—which became Nuyorican when the family got to new York. In our version we always added a hot pickled pepper, either red or green. And we usually bought the Goya brand which came in 6-ounce jars. The peppers were pickled in vinegar and we would sprinkle the vinegar on any dish to add a bit more spice. My mother thought we were nuts, but my father and I loved the added kick.

This recipe is fairly simple to make. It’s a quick, no fuss deal. Naturally, in my family, we served it over steamed rice; but any grain will do, even couscous or pasta. I’ve even served it over kasha (buckwheat groats)—though my Jewish friends would think this strange since kasha is a staple of Eastern European cuisine. But then, as my father would say, “I’m Puerto Rican, I don’t have to make sense.”

CAMARONES CON AJO
(Shrimp with Garlic)

2 pounds medium-to-large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 hot pepper (red or green), either pickled (as noted above) or dried, whole
2 tablespoon dry white wine or chicken broth
Minced parsley for garnish

1. Warm the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and pepper.
2. When the garlic begins to color, raise the heat to medium high and add the shrimp. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, turning once, or until the shrimp are pink.
3. Add the wine or chicken broth, remove the pepper, garnish with parsley and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Red Snapper Meunière

March 10, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I’m always on the lookout for easy ways to cook fish, especially fish fillets And one the most convenient, economical ways is what is called “Meunière” style. This is a classic method where the fish is dusted with flour, then sauteed in butter until crisp and golden. The whole thing is finished with brown butter, a sprinkle of parsley, and garnished with lemon. “Meunière” translates as “miller’s wife.” Presumable, in the old days, a miller’s wife would dredge the fish in flour before cooking it. This type of cooking usually applies to mild flavored fish such as halibut and sole. But it also works with any lean fish such as cod, haddock, and tilapia.

Recently I tried this dish with a more firm flavored fish, red snapper. And it came out pretty good. If figures since one can cook a whole fish, normally trout, and you get that famous combination: trout meunière. Red snapper has a more pronounced flavor, and it goes will with the flour and brown butter. Served with boiled potatoes and/or grilled tomatoes, and you got a winner.

RED SNAPPER MEUNIÈRE

4 red snapper fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup olive oil, vegetable or peanut oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
6 thin slices lemon, for garnish
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Rinse the fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano, and garlic powder.
3. Place fish in a dish large enough to hold in one layer. Pour milk over fillets.
4. Dredge fillets on both sides with the flour. Shake off any excess.
5. Heat oil in a large skillet and add the fillets. Brown nicely on medium-low heat on one side about five minutes and turn. Continue cooking until fish is cooked through (about 5-8 minutes).
6. Transfer the fillets to a serving dish, and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Garnish with the lemon slices.
7. Quickly wipe the skillet clean with paper towels. Add the butter and cook, swirling it around, until it has a hazelnut brown color (what is known as a beurre noisette). Pour this over the fish. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Marinated Pork Spare Ribs

February 28, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

When I was growing up in Spanish Harlem, almost every Friday evening the family would go to Chinatown to the Wah Kee Restaurant. This restaurant no longer exists. It was a hole-in-the wall joint on Doyers Street. You had to go down a stairway to the basement where the restaurant was located. And the dinner was always the same: egg drop soup, steamed vegetable dumplings, Cantonese noodles, friend rice, and baby spare ribs. It never deviated. This was what we always wanted. The spare ribs were unlike anything we had at home. They were “Chinese”—that is, lathered in soy sauce and sesame oil. The ribs we had at home were different: they were seasoned with black pepper, salt, oregano, garlic, olive oil, and red wine vinegar; then baked to perfection. If my mother had added Kikkoman soy sauce we would probably have considered them “Chinese” as well.

In my later years I’ve come to appreciate my mom’s spar ribs more and more. And I’m always experimenting. Once a friend gave me half a gallon of genuine Vermont maple syrup. So I thought, why not cook the suckers in maple syrup? And that is the recipe that follows. True to my Nuyorican roots, I accompany these ribs with yellow rice. But you can serve them with baked potatoes, or French fries. Add a green veggie and you have a superb meal. It’s not the ribs we had at the Wah Kee restaurant, but they are marvelous nevertheless.

MARINATED PORK SPARE RIBS

2 slabs or racks pork ribs (2-3 pounds)
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 ounce Worcestershire sauce
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup maple syrup

1. Wash the pork ribs under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place in a large bowl or resealable plastic bag. Add pepper, oregano, and garlic powder. Drizzle with the Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, and maple syrup. Thoroughly coat the ribs with the mixture.
3. Cover and marinate up to 5 hours in the refrigerator, turning and tossing the ribs once or twice.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spread out the ribs, bone side down in a baking pan. Add 1/2 cup water to pan, and bake for about 1 1/2 hours, turning the ribs once or twice to facilitate even roasting. Note that during the baking the drippings in the pan may dry put. If that is the case, add 1/4 eup water as needed. You will need the drippings for the rib sauce.
5. Remove ribs from oven and set aside. Pour the drippings from the baking pan into a small pan. Simmer over medium-high heat until the sauce begins to thicken (about 3-5 minutes). Brush this thickened sauce over the ribs.
6. Set the oven to broil; and place the ribs (in a pan or baking sheet) in the oven rack about 6 inches from heat source. Broil until the sauce is slightly caramelized, about 3-4 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest, covered, about 10 minutes. Cut between the bones to separate the individual ribs. Note that sometimes the ribs may fall apart when fully cooked. This makes it easier to separate them.
Yield: 4 servings.

Pollo con Limón – Lemon Chicken

February 17, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

This is a recipe that we in the Rivera clan discovered later on. The Nuyorican way of cooking chicken is by baking, roasting, frying, and stewing. But with lemons? Most likely it was our foolish, wonderful, wise Uncle Phillip, the black sheep of the family who, introduced us to this method of cooking chicken. He was a merchant seaman, and a world traveler. So, somewhere along the he discovered this gem. It is not native to the Puerto Rican repertoire. That being, said, it’s an easy, quick and delicious way to prepare chicken breasts. Served with steamed vegetables or rice, it can’t be beat.

Pollo con Limón
(Lemon Chicken)

2 lemons
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon dried or fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon marjoram
2 cups chicken broth

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Wash lemons and slice into thin rounds.
3. Wash chicken breasts and pat dry with paper towels.
4. Place half the lemon slices on the bottom of a baking dish or pan.
5. Arrange chicken in baking dish and top with lemons.
6. Sprinkle with pepper, oregano, garlic powder, and marjoram.
7. Pour broth over chicken, and top with remaining lemons.
8. Bake for 40 minutes or until tender.
Yield: 4 servings.

Tuscan Eggplant

February 6, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Berenjena, or eggplant, is an important component in Puerto Rican cooking. In Nuyorican cuisine we’ve had it since I can remember. I also recall that eggplant is something you either love or hate like let’s say, peanut butter. In my family we love it; and prepare it in myriad ways. The most common being breaded and fried eggplant slices that we serve with fish and/or rice. Thus I’m always on the lookout for new recipes to prepare this great vegetable. Now, we are all familiar with the Italian dish, lasagna; and moussaka, the Greek version that also uses copious amounts of eggplant. There is another way of preparing it—and this is the Tuscan version. I’ve come to love this dish. It could be called Italian comfort food. It’s layered eggplant combined with all the wonderful flavors of the Mediterranean.

The one difference in this dish is that it calls for Herbes de Provence; which is simply a mix of dried herbs found in the province of Provence, in southern France. The mixture usually contains savory, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, and oregano. For the American market they usually add lavender leaves (which is not an herb found in traditional southern French cooking). If you don’t have or don’t want to use Herbes de Provence, you can substitute regular Italian seasoning. Either way, you can’t go wrong with this hearty vegetarian entrée.

TUSCAN EGGPLANT

1 medium eggplant, peeled and sliced into 1/3-inch rounds

Olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon fresh oregano or ½ teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon garlic powder

5 ounces cheddar cheese, grated (or you can use your favorite cheese mix, grated)

1 7-ounce jar roasted peppers

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

½ teaspoon Herbes de Provence (or can substitute Italian seasoning)

1 ounce freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

1. Preheat oven to broil. Place eggplant slices on a baking sheet large enough to hold in a single layer. Brush the eggplant slices on each side with the olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, oregano, and garlic powder.

2. Broil eggplant for 3-4 minutes. Remove eggplant and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 375.

3. In a baking dish (I prefer cast iron), layer half the eggplant, all the roasted peppers, half of the tomato sauce, a generous sprinkling of Herbes de Provence and all of the cheddar cheese. Top with the remaining eggplant and tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese.

4. Put back in oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until the cheese melts.

Yield: 4 servings.

Scallops Cooked in Garlic Butter

January 30, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Most people I know consider scallops to be one of these “exotic” seafood. Well, they’re not. They’re classified as salt water clams or the, fancy term, marine bivalve. Whatever fancy term you use, the fact is they’re delicious if properly prepared. In Asian cuisine, Caribbean cuisine, and European classical cuisine, they’re considered a delicacy. Scallops today are found almost everywhere; and they’re pretty easy to cook. The recipe given below is the quickest, most efficient way I know to make scallops.

The two types of scallops we’re most familiar with are sea scallops and bay scallops. Sea scallops are relatively large, maybe 1 1/2 to 2-inches in diameter. Bay scallops are much smaller; and they are considered sweeter than sea scallops. There are other scallops in the repertoire but, for our purposes, bay scallops and sea scallops are what we usually used in American cooking. In the dish given below you can use either. If the scallops are too large, just simply slice in half. The scallops are sauteed in butter with garlic. Add some pepper, salt and oregano, and that’s it. Nothing could be easier or tastier. It’s a Nuyorican take on a splendid, classical seafood. This dish is great over pasta. This time around we served it over brown rice.

SCALLOPS COOKED IN GARLIC BUTTER

1 pound scallops, fresh or frozen (if frozen, have them defrosted)
1/4 cup butter
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Juice of half a lemon
Tartar sauce

1. Wash scallops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a large saucepan or skillet, heat butter and garlic on medium heat, about 2-3 minutes.
3. Add the scallops to cover the bottom of the pan without crowding. Add salt, pepper and oregano. Cook quickly over high heat, stirring constantly, until scallops are golden brown, about 3-4 minutes. Add lemon juice and cook about 1-2 minute longer. Remove from heat and serve immediately with tarter sauce.
Yield: 4 servings.

Pork Chops with Glazed Carrots

January 20, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

There are those of us who like pork chops, and there are those of us who like carrots. Problem is, how to mix the two together? In my family, following our Nuyorican roots, we normally served pork chops with yellow rice or bianda (assorted boiled root plants like taro, christophene and cassava). And, if bianda or rice wasn’t around, then we did potatoes. We seldom, if ever, served it with carrots. Then came the inspiration of cooking pork with glazed carrots. Now, for the glaze you can use either honey, marmalade or, my favorite, maple syrup. Nothing could be easier, or tastier. If you want to be fancy about it, add some cheese, preferably a soft cheese like Boursin, goat cheese, Camenbert or even brie. However, do not use a feta cheese—it’s too salty for this dish.Some also add roasted pistachios or almonds. This is optional, but it does give it a continental flair.

PORK CHOPS WITH GLAZED CARROTS

4 (10 ounce) pork chops
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon pepper
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup dry red or white wine
4 tablespoons butter (preferably unsalted)
2 tablespoons water
1/2 cup maple syrup (can substitute honey or marmalade)
1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
3-4 ounces fresh Boursin, goat cheese or any soft cheese
2 tablespoons roasted pistachios or almonds (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme leaves

1.Wash chops under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a bowl, combine the pork chops with the olive oil, pepper, garlic and oregano. Rub the seasoning thoroughly into the chops.
3. Heat a large frying pan or skillet (we prefer cast iron) over high heat. Add the chops and sear on both sides (about 2-3 minutes). Add the wine, cover pan, lower heat to medium-low and cook until medium-well, about 5 minutes per side. Remove chops from pan, set aside and keep warm.
4. In same pan, add butter, and once butter starts to melt, add water and maple syrup. When liquid starts to boil, add carrots. Season with salt and pepper, cover pan and cook until carrots are just tender, about 3 minutes. Uncover pan, increase heat to medium-high and cook until carrots are glazed with the syrup.
5. Add dollops of cheese, roasted pistachios (if using), and thyme. Stir to mix.
6. Divide chops among four serving plates, and serve with glazed carrots.
Yield: 4 servings.

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