Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 56 of 85)

Kung Pao Chicken

September 10, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Kung Pao chicken is one of those dishes that has filtered into western cuisine during the last generation or so. When I was a kid and the family would trudge down to the Old Wah Kee restaurant in Chinatown, we would have all the traditional Chinese-American dishes (fried rice, chow mein, egg-drop soup, etc.) We never had Kung Pao chicken. That started popping up in later years, and it caught on because it was spicier that traditional Chinese fare. Kung Pao chicken (or Gong Bao, Kung Po) comes from Sichuan cooking that originated in Sichuan Province in southwest China. Sichuan cooking is noted for its use of Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese coriander and used in Tibetan, Nepelese and Indian cuisine as well. The westernize version of the dish (which includes the recipe given) does not use Sichuan peppercorn since it was illegal to import then into the U.S. from 1968 to 2005. The ban solidified the western version and chili peppers are used instead. Also, in my recipe, I have substituted the sugar used in most versions with honey. My contribution to this venerable dish.

During the infamous Cultural Revolution in China (1966-1976), the dish was renamed “Fast-fried chicken cubes” or “Chicken cubes with seared chilies.” Why? The dish was supposedly named after a Quin Dynasty official, Ding Baozhen, and association with the Quin (1644-1912) was considered subversive or politically incorrect. Again, why? Well, psychotic mass murderer Mao Zedong decided to preserve “true Communist ideology” by purging all “bourgeois” elements and traditional “counter-revolutionary” thought from Chinese society. It set back China socially and economically for decades.

Ding Baozhen is an interesting character. Not only was he an official of the Quin government; but he had very bad teeth and he couldn’t chew meat that was tough or thick. So his personal chef prepared for him a meal consisting of finely chopped stir-fried chicken with lost of peppercorn in it. And the dish was born. Let me add that in my version, I serve it over whole wheat pasta rather than the traditional Chinese noodles. It doesn’t hurt to innovate.

KUNG PAO CHICKEN

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, washed and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 large egg whites
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons cornstarch
5 tablespoons peanut oil
3 dried red chilies (or more if you want it spicier)
1 7.25 ounce bottle or can unsalted peanuts or mixed nuts
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh scallions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
1/3 cup chicken broth (canned is fine)
1/4 cup rice wine or dry sherry
4 tablesppons soy sauce
3 teaspoons honey
2 tablespoons Chinese black rice vinegar (available in most Asian stores)

1. In a medium bowl, mix chicken breasts, egg whites, salt, 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil, and 2 tablespoons of the cornstarch. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, mix reaming tablespoon corn starch with 1/3 cup water. Set aside
3. Place a large pot or wok over high heat until hot, and add peanut oil. When oil is very hot, add chicken pieces and cook for 3 minutes. Add chilies and stir-fry until slightly blackened. Add peanuts, garlic, scallions and ginger, stirring until lightly browned.
4. Add chicken broth, rice wine, soy sauce, honey, vinegar and remaining tablespoon sesame oil. Mix well to combine, and stir in cornstarch mix. Stir-fry for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and let the mixture sit (uncovered) for about 2 minutes more. Mix again, and serve.
Yield: 4 or more servings.

Chick Pea Salad

September 4, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The endless summer continues, and cool salads are still the preference. Following that vein, chick peas or garbanzos, as we call ’em, is one of my favorite dishes. Traditionally, we serve chick peas as a stewed bean dish over rice. Everyone these days is familiar with hummus, that versatile appetizer made with chick peas. Chick peas are also great in salads, as in the famous Three Bean Salad. I make a different chick pea salad. Here, it is paired with olives and fennel.

Now, fennel is something that I discovered back in my young manhood. We never heard of it in East Harlem. Once I discovered it, I fell in love with the thing. It is a flowering plant that yields a pale green bulb with a fragrance akin to anise (as in anisette). It is crunchy and slightly sweet, and very popular in Mediterranean cuisine. It’s health benefits are legion. In the past, fennel was used as a cure for indigestion, constipation, and flatulence. I don’t know about its curative effects, but is it high in Vitamin C, fiber and potassium. The thing is good for you.

This is the archetypical summer recipe. No need to light up the stove, or heat anything. Canned chick peas are fine. The whole thing takes less that 20 minutes to prepare.

CHICK PEA SALAD

3 cups chick peas (if canned, rinsed and drained)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
18 large black olives, pitted and halved
2/3 cup finely diced fresh fennel
2 tablespoons minced scallions
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon black olive paste (available in fancy food shops or stores)
5 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 medium tomato, sliced in 1/2-moon shapes (for garnish)
1 hard-boil egg, sliced (for garnish)

1. Place the chick peas in a serving bowl. Add the garlic, oregano, olives, fennel, scallions and parsley. Mix to combine.
2. In a cruet or small bowl, mix the lemon juice with the olives, olive paste and olive oil. Pour over the chick pea mix and toss gently.
3. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir to mix again. Garnish with tomato and egg, and serve.
Yield: 6 servings.

Marinated Fish Salad

It has been a hot, lengthy Summer on the East Coast, and cool salad meals still reign. But one can have just so many vegetable and pasta salads. So how about a fish salad for a change? And I don’t mean canned tuna fish either, or herring in cream. I’m talking a marinated fish salad. In Puerto Rican cuisine the most popular marinated fish is pescado en escabeche or pickled fish. This is fish marinated overnight in herbs and spices and served at room temperature. In our cooking, it’s not actually considered a salad dish as such, but more of a great entrée for summer.

I’ve been experimenting with marinated fish as a genuine salad dish. And this is a recipe I came up with. In pescado en escabeche the fish used is kingfish or swordfish steaks. In this dish I use halibut fillets. But any firm fleshed fish can be had, be it turbot, cod, pollock, haddock, tilapia, even sole. Here, the fish is steamed briefly then marinated in the veggies and spices given; and finally served on a bed of lettuce leaves. With a good hunk of bread, a light white wine or rosé, or even a good beer on a hot day, it can’t be beat.

MARINATED FISH SALAD

1 pound halibut
1 medium green or red bell pepper, cut itno thin strips, then strips cut in half
1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley
1 medium oion, cut into thin strips
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and black ground pepper to tatse
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup lemon juice
Lettuce leaves (for sreving with fish)
1 medium tomato, cut into 1/2 moon shapes

1. Wash fish fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.2. Cut fish into 1-inch cubes. Place in a steamer (either bamboo or other), or in a pan with water barley to cover, and steam briefly until cooked. Allow about 10 minutes per inch thickness of fish. Do not overcook.
3. Place cooked fish in a glass bowl. Add bell pepper, parsley, onion, cucumber, garlic, salt and pepper.
4. Combine remaining ingredients (except for lettuce); and pour marinade over fish-vegetable mix. Marinate for several hours or overnight in the fridge.
5. To serve, arrange lettuce leaves on a plate. Using a slotted spoon, place the fish salad on the lettuce; and garnish with tomato slices.
Yield: 4 servings.

Salad Dressings

August 22, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

Summertime is salad time, we all know that. The problem has always been salad dressings. Back on the block, when I was coming up, there was no such thing as exclusive salad dressings. It was just plain ole olive oil and vinegar drizzled over the greens. Even in Spanish Harlem in the 50s and 60s this was the norm. Then, like everybody else, we started getting into the fancy individualized dressings: Russian, French, Ranch-Style, 1,000 Island, etc. But, you know what?—in my family it was still the old standby of oil and vinegar.

Now, I know times have changed, and even an old dinosaur like me recognizes that. Still, to me, salad dressings are a goof. Go to the supermarket and you are inundated by every type and blend— everything from the regulars, like Italian, Blue Cheese, Caesar, to Raspberry Walnut, Chipotle Ranch, Guacamole Ranch, Ginger-Mandarin, Lime-Basil, Sun-Dried Tomato, Santa Fe Blend, and specialty premium types like Champagne Dressing and something called “Goddess” Dressing. All well and good. However, most are loaded with chemicals and ersatz ingredients. I discovered long ago that you can make fine dressings at home, and usually with stuff already in your cupboard. I stopped buying the fancy-dan specimens a while back. Plain, good ingredients, and in a few moments of your time you have best, nutritious and delicious backdrop to any salad.

Below are given five of my favorites. Why spend money on pseudo stuff, when you can whip up the genuine article?

BASIC DRESSING
Combine in a small bowl or cruet: 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar (distilled white, cider or red wine), 1/2 teaspoon mustard (dry or prepared), salt and pepper to tatse. Blend with a fork or small whisk. Stir in 1 teaspoon of crumbled herbs (basil or thyme, or oregano, or parsley, or dill). Place in refrigerator until ready to use.

SESAME DRESSING
In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar (distille white or red wine). Stir in 2 small thinly sliced scallions, and season with pepper to taste. This is normally used over steamed vegetables or fish.

CREAMY SALAD DRESSING
Combine until smooth in a blender or food processor, 1 medium peeled cucumber, 1 scallion, 2 tablespoons fresh mint, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon sesame tahini.

YOGURT-DILL DRESSING
Combine until smooth in a blender of food processor: 1 cup yogurt, 2 tablespoons fresh dillweed, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1/2 small yellow onion or 1 scallion. Chill and serve over cooked vegetables or fish.

TOMATO-TAHINI DRESSING
Stir together in a small bowl until well blended: 3/4 cup yogurt, 1 tablespoon sesame tahini, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon white vinegar. Serve chilled over toss salad or in tuna, macaroni or chicken salad.

Following in this vein, some friends have asked me how to infuse or flavor olive oil. You know what I mean: you go into a fancy store and you see bottles of olive oil with all kinds of things growing in them. You can have the same affect at home for 1/3 of the cost.

FRESH-HERB DRESSING
Wash and dry a large bunch of fresh herbs (such as basil, cilantro, tarragon, dill, etc.) Fill a bottle with half of the leaves, and then fill with olive oil. For more flavor, you can add some whole peppercorns, 1 clove garlic (smashed), and (if you’re really adventurous) one red or green hot pickled pepper (or 1 chili pepper). Cover and store in the fridge for 1-2 weeks. For a stronger flavor, remove the basil leaves and replace with more leaves. Cover and steep for another week. Strain the oil

Roman Pasta Salad

August 12, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In the U.S., summer pasta salads have become ubiquitous (I love them $20 words, as my father would say). You see them at every outing or function. And it’s usually the same deal: chilled macaroni or ziti floating in a mound of mayonnaise or bottled Italian dressing, with some greens or cherry tomatoes added for color. That’s what I experienced during my youth until I took a trip to Italy—and discovered pasta salads unlike anything I had back home. No mayo, no bottled dressing, and simple, fresh ingredients. In fact, no chilling in the fridge. Back in the old days, refrigeration was at a premium, and pasta salads were made and served as is.

The recipe given follows that concept. I first had it in Naples, even though it’s commonly known as Roman Pasta Salad. If it were up to me I would call it Napoli Pasta Salad or Neopolitan Pasta Salad, but, then, what do I know? The salad works best with tubular pasta or shells. You can use rotini, penne, whatever. I used rigatoni. The dish is simplicity itself. Basically the cooked pasta is marinated in onion, basil, tomato, and black olives. If desired, you can add grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese—although this wasn’t done when I first had the dish. Also, as they do in Naples, serve at room temperature. Add a good hunk of bread, some light red wine, and you’re set.

ROMAN PASTA SALAD

5 large ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 medium onion, sliced into thin rings
1 bunch basil, rinsed and torn into bite-sized pieces
1 16-ounce can black pitted olives, drained and halved
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound rigatoni

1. In a large bowl, toss and mix together the tomatoes, onion, basil, olives, olive oil, oregano, salt and pepper. Let stand at least 2 hours for flavors to develop.
2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the rigatoni and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain and toss the warm pasta into the salad, season with additional salt and pepper if necessary.
Yield: 6 main courses or 12 side-dish servings.

Asparagus Salad

August 8, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Summer is archetypical salad time. But in my culture we never actually considered salads as a main dish. Back on the block, when I was growing up, salad was the side dish, not even the first course. This is common to Puerto Rican cuisine. We would never dream up such a thing as a huge chef’s salad. The idea of salad as a main course never entered out vocabulary until we reached the mainland. Back in the island of Puerto Rico a salad was considered nothing more than a simple amassing of greens served along with the main course. The arrangement was simple: lettuce and tomatoes slices drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. Party salads and such were the province of San Juan debutante society. Today, of course after three generations of Americanization, our salad repertoire is as vast and various as anyone’s.

Thus in this vein, in my family we’re always experimenting. We’ve come up with salad dishes that to some may seem more like vegetable dishes, for example using broccoli and artichokes as a main ingredient. The following recipe is within that category: an asparagus salad. I’ve always like asparagus, even as a kid. The salad given has a definitive classical influence. It consists simple of a vinaigrette spooned over the asparagus. The salad calls for raw onion rings (which in my family we love). If you don’t like eating raw onions, then soak the slices in a bowl of cold water for 10 minutes, drain, pat dry, and then serve with the salad. Add some crusty bread, a light red or white wine, and you’ve got a fabulous summer meal.

ASPARAGUS SALAD

1 pound fresh thin asparagus
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon Dijon-style or whole grain mustard
2 medium tomatoes, cut into half-moon shapes
1 small or 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 hard boil egg, sliced into half-moon shapes
2 ounces fresh shaved Parmesan or Romano cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.
2. Meanwhile, using sharp knife, trim and discard any tough asparagus stem ends.
3. Place the asparagus in the boiling water and cook for 3-4 minutes or just until the vegetable is bright green and tender but not soft.
4. Drain and transfer to a serving plate or platter.
5. Whisk together the lemon juice, oil and mustard in a salad cruet or measuring cup. Blend well to form a vinaigrette.
6. Arrange the tomatoes around the asparagus. Top with the onion and cheese. Spoon the vinaigrette over the vegetables.
7. Garnish with the egg slices and serve at room temperature.
Yield: 2-3 servings.

Grilled Pork Chops

July 31, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Grilling season again. And pork chops are a natural for this type of cooking. In this recipe we’re using pork loin chops. They’re real meaty, and with this zesty marinated recipe, real tasty. I’ve added fresh mint to the recipe for that extra zing.

GRILLED PORK CHOPS

4-5 loin pork chops (about 3 to 3 1/2 pounds)
1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano or 1 tablespoon dried
3 tablespoons fresh chopped thyme leaves
1/4 cup fresh chopped mint
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1. Wash pork chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.
2. Combine remaining ingredients in a bowl. Mix well.
3. Prick pork chops on each side with a knife or the tines of a fork. Coat both sides of chops with marinade mixture, rubbing well into the meat. Place in a covered dish and let stand at least 2 hours in the refrigerator for flavors to develop.
4, Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill. Fire should be moderately hot.
5. Grill about 10 minutes per side or until done.
Yield: 4 or more servings.

Marinated Turkey

July 25, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I’m a fan of marinades or, as others would say, marinating. In Puerto Rican cuisine, we marinate pork, as in pernil (roast pork shoulder); veal (as in veal chops a la jardinera); and, our favorite, fish (pescado en escabeche or pickled fish). Then I figured, Why not extend this to other things like, let’s say, turkey? By that, I mean, turkey breasts. And thus arose this recipe for marinated turkey. Turkey is a funny meat to marinate. The marinade cannot be either too strong or it may overpower the meat, or too weak, then it’s tasteless. So I kept it simple in terms of ingredients, adding maple syrup and ginger for a slight sweet-sour effect. The results were not too bad. In fact, it was delicious. If you don’t have maple syrup around, you can substitute honey. That, and common seasonings found in your cupboard make this a great meal. In Nuyorican tradition, the dish would be served with pilaf rice. If rice is not your forte, then it goes well with yellow or red steamed baby potatoes.

MARINATED TURKEY

1 boneless turkey breasts, about 3-3 1/2 pounds, cut into 1/2-inch slices
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup lemon juice
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground ginger
Pinch of ground cloves

1. Wash turkey breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place turnkey in a glass dish or bowl.
2. Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl, and mix well. Set aside 1/3 cup of the marinade, cover and store in the refrigerator. Pour remaining marinade over the turkey. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, better yet, overnight.
3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Drain and discard marinade. Place turkey in a baking pan or dish, and pour reserved marinade over turkey. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until no longer pink, basting twice during baking.
4. Transfer to serving platter and serve.
Yield: 4 or more servings.

Alcapurrias – Stuffed Green Bananas

July 16, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In Puerto Rican cuisine the most favorite savory are frituras or fritters, and cuchifritos. These are snacks, side dishes and appetizers that are deep fried. Frituras are fried vegetables, some with meat stuffing, which are mainly for noshing between meals. Cuchifritos, the other hand, are fried pork products such as pork rinds. These delicacies have been in our culture since time immemorial. In the old days, pork fat or lard was used as the frying agent. These days it’s olive oil or vegetable oil. Within the vegetable category, the best would be safflower oil or a good canola oil, if nothing else because of reasons of health. True, even today, frying in lard or Crisco will give a better taste—at the expense of hardening your arteries.

Alcapurrias come under the heading of frituras. As to the term itself, alcapurrias (pronounced: al-kah-poo-reeas), could be a traditional Caribbean Indian word or island slang of a more recent derivation. Wherever the word came from, this snack is very popular with islanders and Nuyoricans alike. Basic alcapurrias are made with green bananas; what we call guineos (ghee-neh-os). Traditionally, the other way we serve green bananas is boiled and then drizzled with olive oil. So you’re probably saying, Who the hell would eat green bananas? Simple, anyone who knows how good they are, cooked in a sauce or, as we have it here, stuffed with ground beef.

The recipe below calls for achiote, which is an ingredient used for taste and coloring. It consists of annatto seeds cooked in vegetable oil or olive oil. Annatto seeds can be obtained in 8-ounce jars in most supermarkets or any Asian or Caribbean market. Simply heat 1/2 cup of oil in a small skillet or pan, add 1 teaspoon annatto seeds, turn heat to low and cook the seeds, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. If the flame is kept on high the seeds may crack and splatter. During cooking, the oil will turn a bright orange-red color. The longer the seeds steep in oil, the deeper the hue. Remove from heat, let cool and, using a strainer, pour into a small jar or container. Cover and refrigerate. In my family we use a lot of achiote. Some of our recipes call for a whole bottle of vegetable oil (32-ounces) and one jar of annatto seeds. This would be enough to feed an army.

If you’re interested in learning more about frituras and cuchifritos, you can always pick up my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books, Running Press) which has recently gone into its third printing. It’s chock-full of similar Boricua recipes. And even if you’re not native to the Caribbean, your taste buds will thank you for it.

ALCAPURRIAS
(Stuffed Green Bananas)

8 whole black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon vinegar
1 pound lean ground beef
1/4 cup tomato sauce
3 pounds green bananas
1 large green plantain
1/2 cup achiote (see recipe given above)
Vegetable oil for frying

1. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, salt and oregano. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. Add seasoning to beef and mix
2. Brown seasoned beef in a skillet over high heat (no extra oil is necessary). Reduce heat to low. Stir in tomato sauce and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove meat to a bowl and set aside.
3. Peel bananas and plantain, and cut in half. Grate the bananas and plantain using the grating disk of a food processor or a hand held shredder. Mix in a bowl with the achiote, then mash with a fork or
potato masher.
4. Spread some of the banana-plantain mix in the palm of your hand (keep palms wel while doing this).
With your fingers make asmall nest in the center of the mix in your palm, and stuff with about a spoonful of the beef filling. Cover the filling with more mix and shape into a cylinder or croquette. Repeat until filling and bananas are used up.

5. Deep-fry in hot oil (375°) until golden brown (about 4 minutes each). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.
Yield: About 15 alcapurrias.

Soy Sauced Chicken

July 11, 2015 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

One of the standard dishes in Cantonese and American Chinese cuisine is soy sauced chicken. It’s facility for easy cooking makes it a very popular entrée. In the traditional preparation all you need is chicken, usually cooked whole, soy sauce, sugar, scallions and (sometimes) sesame oil. The cooked whole chicken is then cooled and cut into bite-sized pieces.

In my family, we’ve evolved another way of cooking this dish—the Nuyorican way. First of all, we cut up the chicken and season it with spices native to our palette. It makes for a slightly different dish from the traditional norm, but just as tasty and enticing. Served over plain steam rice or (if you wish) buckwheat noodles, it’s a great main course.

SOY SAUCED CHICKEN

1 fryer chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, cut into serving pieces
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons water or dry white wine
2 tablespoons honey
4 stalks scallions, washed and chopped
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in a bowl with the garlic, pepper, oregano. Rub seasoning well into chicken pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and vinegar. Mix well to combine. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes.
3. In a wok or pan (I prefer cast-iron), add water or wine, scallions and honey. Add the chicken. Cover and cook on medium heat. The heat should be strong enough to bring the mixture to a boil, bubbling around and over the chicken but not too strong as to evaporate the liquid too quickly.
4. Turn the chicken pieces 2-3 times. If sauce gets too little in quantity, add no more than 2 tablespoons additional water (or wine).
5. After 25 minutes, pierce chicken with a knife or fork. If no pink juice comes out, the chicken is done.
6. Remove from heat, add sesame oil and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Author, Warrior, and Teacher