Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 58 of 83)

Poached Fish with Broccoli

Recently, my wife bought me a fish poacher. You know, one of those elongated contraptions with a rack used to facilitate the boiling, or poaching, of fish. I must say it is convenient; and a healthy low-fat way to prepare seafood. You simply poach the fish in water, broth or vegetable juice seasoned with herbs, spices, or even wine. You can even poach the fish in milk. The possibilities are endless. This can work with fish fillets or, as I prefer, any whole fish be it sea bass, striped bass, bluefish, red snapper, monkfish, catfish, you name it. In the recipe that follows I tried it with a mullet; a fairly inexpensive fish that provides a great, delicate taste.

As noted, the cooking liquid for the fish may vary. In French they call it a court bouillon. And it usually consist of water and wine blended with spices and one or two vegetables such as carrots and onions. My recipe is simpler than that I used plain water and seasoned the fish beforehand Nuyorican fashion with all the ingredients. In this case: olive oil, vinegar, pepper, oregano. For more a flavor profile I added two spices common to Indian cuisine, coriander and cumin. So this poached version has an international flavor to it. Along with it I decided to make some stir-fried onions and broccoli florets. Yes, unlike one of our past presidents, I do love broccoli—and it went pretty good with the poached fish.

The good thing about poaching is the ease of cooking. Once the fish is simmering in the container, there is nothing more to do. Just wait till it’s done. The rule of thumb is to cook the fish 10 minutes for each inch of thickness. I just peek at it from time to time until it’s tender. You can also save the cooking liquid in the refrigerator or freezer for later use as fish stock.

POACHED FISH WITH BROCCOLI

1 three pound whole fish, cleaned scaled, but with head intact
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar (red or white)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
Water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced into rings
1 head broccoli, florets only
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons water

1. Rinse the fish well and pat dry with paper towels.
2. With a sharp knife make four to five incisions on each side of the fish.
3. Drizzle fish all over with olive oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with pepper and oregano, patting ingredients into the surface of the fish. Do the same with the coriander and cumin.
4. Lower the fish into a poacher with a tight-fitting lid, or a deep sauce pan or other oval casserole or pot large enough to hold the fish. Place the crushed garlic inside the fish. Add enough water to cover half of the fish, about 2-3 inches.
5. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pan, and boil for exactly 5 minutes. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes more.
6. While fish is cooking, heat olive oil in a medium skillet or fry pan. Add the onion and broccoli and sauté, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of water, cover pan, lower heat and simmer for 2 minutes more or until broccoli is tender but still firm. Season with salt and pepper.
7. When fish is done, remove with slotted spoon from liquid and place on a serving dish, surrounded with the broccoli and onion (or you can serve the broccoli and onion on the side, if you wish).
Yield: 4 servings.

Tostones with Broiled Lamb Chops

October 9, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Tostones are fried green plantains. Its probably the most popular side dish in Puerto Rican cuisine. It’s also popular in Dominican and Cuban cooking. In our family we have tostones frequently, which reflects our cultural norm. Go to any Caribbean restaurant, and tostones will be on the menu.This is not the first time we’ve featured fried green plantains on this blog. It was one of the first recipes we noted when I began this journey (see post of 9/9/10).

For tostones, you need green (not ripe plantains). Yes, ripe plantains can also be prepared, but that’s another story. Green plantains (platanos) can be found in most supermarkets these days, If not, any Caribbean or Asian market will usually carry them. This time around I’ve paired tostones with another favorite, broiled lamb chops. A light red wine, like a Gamay, Bardolino or Beaujolais, will complement the meat very well. If not, then a good robust beer or ale will will do (not that light beer stuff that taste like water).

TOSTONES WITH BROILED LAMB CHOPS

3 green plantains
4 cups water
2 tablespoons salt
Vegetable oil for frying
4 lamb chops, about 1-inch thick
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon turmeric
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Butter
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Juice of 1/2 lemon

1. Remove skin from the plantains. This is done by cutting tips at both ends; then cut a slit along the length of the plantain and peel off. To facilitate easier handling, some cooks dip plantains in hot water and then remove the skin. Once plantains are peeled, cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick. Reserve peels: typically, the unbroken skin of the plantain is used for flattening the tostones.
2. Combine water and salt in a bowl and soak plantain slices for 30 minutes. Drain well.
3. While plantains are soaking, in a bowl combine the olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, oregano and turmeric. Add the lamb chops and marinate for at least 1 hour. Or you can place the lamb chops in a large zip-lock bag, add the ingredients, and marinate that way in the fridge.
4. Broil the lamb chops in a very hot preheated broiler. Brown on both sides, cooking a total of 10 minutes for rare, 15 for medium, 20 minutes for well done.
5. While lamb chops are broiling, fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat oil until very hot (373 degrees F.). Deep fry plantains for 5 to 6 minutes over medium heat until golden yellow.
6. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
7. Place a plantain slice between two plantain peels, envelope fashion, and pound flat with the palm of the hand. Repeat until all slices are pressed. Return plantain slices to skillet and cook until golden brown (about 4-5 minutes longer). Drain on absorbent paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt. Three plantains will render about 12-15 tostones.
8. Transfer lamb chops to a warm platter, and place a pat of butter on each chop. Sprinkle with lemon juice and parsley. Serve with tostones.
Yield: 4 servings.

Super Grains: Whole Millet with Fish Fillets (Filete de Pecado al Horno)

October 4, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In this post we cover another of our super grains: millet—which has been called the world’s healthiest food. Why? It’s a food source of magnesium, which has been shown to lower blood pressure and reduce the risk of heart attack, especially in people suffering from diabetes or atherosclerosis. It also has phosphorus, which helps in the development and repair of body tissue. And it is high in fiber, which helps prevent gallstones. On top of that, it’s quite tasty.

The grain has been cultivated in China for 4,000 years. From China, it made its way to Europe by 5000 BCE. Today it’s also an important crop in India and western Africa. We Americans are contrarians, so we grow it mostly for bird feed. That’s right, bird feed. But don’t let that deter you. Whole millet is a great food—economical, nutritious, and easy to cook. I knew nothing about millet until my young manhood, when I saw Akira Kurosawa’s classic flic, Seven Samurai. In it, the villagers who hire the samurai to protect them, feed them (what else?) millet. At the time I thought, If it’s good enough for honorable samurai, it sure as hell is good for anyone.

The recipe given below combines this fabled grain with baked fish fillets, Puerto Rican style. It’s a blending of two cultures, and a great mix. And it shows how versatile millet can be. You can make it with poultry, pork, beef, you name it. It makes a great breakfast mixed with cream or milk with a little maple syrup on top. So, be a samurai tonight, eat some millet.

MILLET WITH FILETE DE PESCADO AL HORNO

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 1/2 cups whole millet (preferably organic)
2 cups boiling water or chicken broth
4-6 boneless. skinless fish fillets, such as flounder, sole, turbot or cod (about 1 1/2 pounds)
2 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon flour
3/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon white or dark Puerto Rican rum (optional)
Half of a small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
Salt to taste

1. In a heavy skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the the oil, add the millet and toast gently until the grain is tan and slightly brown.
2. Add the millet and remaining oil. Stir, cover, lower heat and simmer gently for 25-30 minutes or until desired texture and all the water is absorbed.
3. While the millet is cooking, preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
4. Rinse fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
5. In a small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons butter and flour over moderate heat, and boil for 1 minute.
4. Slowly pour in the milk, stirring constantly until thickened. Add the rum at this stage, if using.
5. Lower heat and add onion, garlic, bay leaf, pepper and salt, Stir together for about 1 minute.
6. Place fillets in a greased baking dish. Pour sauce over fillets, dot top with remaining butter.
7. Bake uncovered, for 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.
Yield: 4 servings.

Super Grains: Amaranth with Roast Chicken (Pollo Al Horno)

September 27, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Today we discuss the second of our super grains. The first was Pearl Barley (see post of 09/20/14). This one is on amaranth (or amaranthus), an ancient grain that was cultivated in Mexico, Guatemala and Peru. Nowadays it’s cultivated as a leaf vegetable in Indonesia, Malaysia, The Philippines, India and East Africa. But outside of such tropical countries it was virtually unknown until recently. At one time it was the main grain consumed by the Aztecs prior to the Spanish conquest. After that conquest, the cultivation of the amaranth seed was outlawed. And it wasn’t until the 1970s that it was revived in Mexico as a popular snack mixed with chocolate or puffed rice.

First of all, apart from being tasty, amaranth is good for you. It’s a good source of protein, and is rich in amino acids, vitamin A,C, thiamine, calcium and iron. It makes a great side dish or even a main course. In Greece it is served as a popular dish called vlita (or vleeta), where it’s mixed with olive oil and lemon juice and eaten as a salad. Amaranth is very easy to cook. And in this recipe I’ve combine it with a Puerto Rican favorite, Pollo Al Horno (Roast Chicken). Most recipes for amaranth call for measurements of 1 cup of the grain to 1 1/2 to 3 cups water or chicken broth. For those who want a more porridge-like consistency, they may use more water. I like amaranth tender but drier, so my measurement is 1 1/2 cup amaranth to 3 cups water. Again, it’s an individual choice. Either way, the recipe is great. You won’t be disappointed.

AMARANTH WITH ROAST CHICKEN
(POLLO AL HORNO)

1 3 to 3 1/4 pounds roasting chicken, cut into generous bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3 cups chicken brioth or water
1 cupo amarnath

1. Wash chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl.
2. In a small bowl or cup, mix olive oil, salt, pepper, oregano, tarragon and crushed garlic. Pour over chicken, rubbing seasoning thoroughly into the skin. Cover bowl and let stand 15 minutes or, better still, overnight. You can also place the chicken in a large zip-lock bag and marinate that way.
3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Remove chicken from marinade and place in a shallow roasting pan. Turn once during roasting, and bake until golden brown and juices are no longer pink, about 30 minutes.
4. While chicken is cooking, bring water to a rolling boil in a heavy saucepan or pot. Add amaranth, cover, lower heat, and simmer until grain is tender and all the water has been absorbed, 20-25 minutes. You can serve the chicken over the amaranth or on the side
Yield: 4 servings.

Super Grains: Barley with Picadillo

September 20, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Due to my beloved wife’s influence, we have been eating a lot of grains lately. Nutritionists will tell you that a diet in whole grains is beneficial to good health and well being. When I was growing up back on the block, the only grain we were familiar with was rice, which is endemic to Puerto Rican cuisine both as an entrée or side dish. The only other grain we had was oats, which we ate for breakfast in the form of oatmeal. Now, since we are more aware, I’ve discovered what I call super-grains. In the next three blog postings I will discuss three of these.

We start with one of the oldest grains around—barley. In this case, pearl barley. That is, barley where the bran (the fibrous outer hull) has been removed, mainly because this makes it cook faster, and is nuttier in taste than hulled barley. I’ve come to love pearl barley, and not only as a side dish. Barley is one of the oldest cultivated grains. There are biblical references to it in Deuteronomy (8:8) where it is one of the crops that is abundant in the Land of Canaan promised to Moses by God. In Ancient Rome it was a main food for gladiators, so much so that they became known as “barley eaters.” It is also a fermentabel component for making beer. In fact, barley beer was one of the first alcoholic beverages developed by humans. Add to that, barley is high in protein, vitamins (such as niacin, riboflavin, and vitamin C) and minerals like calcium and iron.

The recipe below ties pearl barley with a favorite in Nuyorican cooking, picadillo (pronounced “pee-cah-dee-yoh”). I’ve tweaked the recipe by adding heavy cream to the sauce for a richer consistency.

PEARL BARLEY WITH PICADILLO

1 1/2 cups pearl barley
3 1/4 cups water or chicken broth
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound ground beef, pork, turnkey or chicken
1 medium onion. peeled and sliced into rings
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup tomato sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 teaspoons sofrito (see note below*)
1/2 cup heavy cream

1. Place barley, water or broth in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 1/4 hours.
2. While barley is cooking, prepare the picadillo: heat olive in a large skillet or saucepan. Add beef and cook on high heat until meat loses its red color.
3. Add onion and saute over medium heat until onion is transparent and meat is brown (about 3 minutes). Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes more.
4. Add tomato sauce, oregano, salt, pepper, and sofrito. Stir to combine, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
5. Stir in heavy cream, cover, and cook 2 minutes more. Traditionally, picadillo is served over the grain, or you can serve it on the side.
Yield: 4 servings.
*Note: Sofrito is a seasoning which is described in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America. If you don’t have sofrito, you can substitute 1 packet sasón accent, or 1 teaspoon turmeric.

Scallop with Tomatoes

September 12, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The tomato season is coming to an end. But you can still find good tomatoes out there. In winter, when fresh good tomatoes are scarce, the back-up is canned plum tomatoes, preferably imported. For now, I’m still creating and eating tomato dishes. In this latest recipe, I’m combining tomatoes with one of my favorite seafood, scallops. This recipe is fairly easy. The usual ingredients are probably in your cupboard right now. The only innovation is saffron, still one of the most exotic seasonings around. Saffron can be expensive. But you just use a pinch. A little bit can go a long way. It gives color and a distinct flavor that no other herb possesses. Scallops can go with almost any grain or vegetable. This time around I serve the scallops with whole wheat linguini; but you can serve it with rice, or couscous, potatoes, or whatever. You won’t be disappointed.

SCALLOP WITH TOMATOES

1 1/2 pound scallops
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 pound ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced. or one 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, drained and diced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 teaspoon saffron thread, crushed

1. Rinse scallops under cold running water. Drain, and dry on paper towels. If the scallops are large, you can halve them horizontally.
2. Heat butter and olive oil in a saute pan or deep skillet.
3. Add onions and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 3-4 minutes.
4. Add tomatoes, oregano, salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, for about 5 minutes.
5. Add garlic and cook for 3 minutes more.
6. Stir in cream, white wine and saffron threads. Bring to a boil. Add scallops and cook over medium heat, stirring, until scallops are tender and white, about 2 minutes. Serve over whole wheat pasta, rice, or couscous.
Yield: 4 servings.

Pork Chops Supreme

September 4, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I got this recipe out of a cookbook which I acquired years ago. It was an old cookbook from 1968: Quick and Easy Dishes – Favorite Recipes of Home Economics Teachers. Remember “Home Economics?” Is it taught in the schools anymore? Anyway, this recipe caught my eye. It was simple enough: pork chops, salt, pepper, onion and tomato. I modified it in that I added cheese, olive oil, oregano garlic, and parsley. You could say I’ve made them Nuyorican Supreme Pork Chops.

PORK CHOPS SUPREME

4 pork chops, about 1 inch thick
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely mince
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 slices tomato
4 slices cheese, preferably a goat cheese like Manchego (but you can substitute Pecorino, Romano, Parmesan,
or other)
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Wash chops under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels.
3. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper.
4. Rub the seasoning into the meat.
5. Place chops in a baking pan or dish. Top with a tomato slice. Add enough water to cover bottom of pan. Place in oven and bake for one hour.
6. Top each chop with slice of cheese. Transfer to broiler part of oven and broil 1-2 minutes until cheese melts.
7. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Grilled Marinated Mint and Mustard Lamb

August 25, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

It’s the waning days of summer, but we’re still grilling. One of my favorites is grilled lamb; which is a change from the usual barbecue steaks, hotdogs and burgers. But how to do it? Lamb offers so many possibilities. One of them is marinated lamb. My favorite method to grill lamb is just to prepare it highly seasoned with salt, pepper, oregano, and olive oil. However, recently I came across a recipe where the marinade consists of fresh mint and mustard. I love mint, and I love mustard. I was in heaven. As with any marinade, it’s best to marinate the lamb at least for four hours or, preferably, overnight. The rest is a snap—grill until done.

GRILLED MARINATED MINT AND MUSTARD LAMB

1 red onion, peeled and chopped
1 bunch mint leaves (reserve 1/4 cup finely chopped leaves)
2 tablespoons dry or regular mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
1 4-5 pound leg of lamb, trimmed, but with a thin layer of fat kept on (I know, it’s fat but, guess what,
that’s what gives it the flavor. get over it.)
1/2 stick butter
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Puree the onion, mint leaves and mustard in a food processor. While the processor is running, add oil in a slow and steady stream.
2. Place lamb in a large zip-lock bag and pour in the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight, turning the bag from time to time to distribute the marinade.
3. On the day of grilling, combine the butter, garlic, chopped mint, salt and pepper in a small saucepan or skillet. Warm over low flame until the butter melts. Set aside.
3. One hour before grilling, let the lamb sit at room temperature. If using charcoal briquettes, prepare an intense fire on half of the grill. If using a gas grill, heat to high.
4. Remove lamb from the marinade and place on the hot portion of the grill. Cook until browned (6-8 minutes). Turn and cook for 5-7 minutes more.
5. Move the lamb to the cool side of the grill and brush with the butter-mint mixture. Cover the grill and cook until the internal temperature reads 125 to 130 degrees (for medium rare). This usually takes 24 to 30 minutes more, turning and basting with the butter-mint mixture occasionally.
6. When done, place on a warm serving platter and let sit for 15 minutes before serving.
Yield: 8-10 servings.

Camarones en Escabeche – Pickled Shrimp

August 17, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Pickled shrimp, marinated shrimp, take your pick. In our culture it’s all the same. Escabeche refers to placing cooked (or partially cooked) seafood into a marinade. That’s where the pickling comes in. In Criollo (Puerto Rican cuisine) we pickle fish, usually swordfish or kingfish steaks, and shrimp. In terms of fish steaks, we cook them first in olive oil, and then marinate them. Shrimp follow the same pattern in that we first boil them lightly and then proceed with the marinade.

A basic Criollo marinade consists of olive oil, red onions, garlic, pimento stuffed Spanish olives, oregano, cilantro, and fresh lime juice. We mix it in a bowl, add the par-boiled shrimp and let the thing sit overnight, and that’s it.. In Spain, they do it differently, and that’s the recipe given below. They omit the Spanish olives, oregano, cilantro, and lime juice. In a way, it’s a simpler recipe. The only other difference is that bay leaves, garlic and peppercorns are simmer first, then added to the marinade ingredients. In all cases, par-boiling, followed by marinating gives the shrimp their tender-firm texture. We serve pickled shrimp with steamed rice. That’s the favorite accompaniment. With a bottle of sauvignon blanc or soave, it can’t be beat.

CAMARONES EN ESCABECHE
(Pickled Shrimp)

1 small red onion, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced cosswise
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
2 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined (you can leave the tail intact, if desired)

1. In a shallow bowl, mix together the onion, vinegar, oregano, and salt. Set aside.
2. In a small saucepan or skillet, simmer on low the olive oil, bay leaves, garlic and pepper for 10 minutes. Then set aside until ready to use.
3. In a pan or pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add shrimp and cook on high heat for 2 minutes.
4. Drain and combine in a bowl (or a zip-lock bag) with the onion mixture along with the oil mixture. Mix well.
5. Store covered bowl (or zip-lock bag) in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight. Discard the bay leaves and serve shrimp cold or at room temperature.
Yield: 4 servings.

Heirloom Tomato with Swiss Chard and Avocado

August 6, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Summer is the time to enjoy delicious red tomatoes. In winter, we are bereft. What you see in the supermarket are mealy, bland versions packed in cellophane. They are tasteless and meager. Summer comes, and tomatoes, fresh and ripe, are in profusion again. One of my favorite varieties is heirloom tomatoes. They are plentiful now. The only problem I see with heirlooms is that they have shorter shelf-life than other commercial tomatoes. But that’s no problem in the Rivera household.We eat the tomatoes as soon as we get them, knowing that come winter, we’ll be in the doldrums again.

I use heirlooms in various ways, from sauces to entrees; but mainly in salads, as is called for in this season. Recently I was at the farmer’s market and I saw some Swiss chard. Now, truthfully, I am not familiar with this green. I heard it’s considered one of the most nutritious vegetables around, ranking second only to spinach. And I’m willing to experiment. So I decided to whipped up a tomato and Swiss chard salad, just for the hell of it. And it came out pretty good. To the mix I added an avocado, which are also in profusion right now. The result: an easy, quick and delicious meal. With a crusty bread and a light wine, you can’t go wrong.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO WITH SWISS CHARD AND AVOCADO

1 bunch Swiss Chard

1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
4 small tomatoes, ripe but firm
1 medium avocado, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons chopped scallions

1. Rinse the Swiss chard under cold running water; and tear into bite-sized pieces.
2. In a deep skillet or pan, bring 2-3 quarts water to a boil. Add the Swiss chard and cook for 1-2 minutes. Immediately rinse in cold water and drain on paper towels.
3. Make the marinade: in a bowl, combine the olive oil and vinegar. Add salt, pepper, garlic, and oregano. Stir to to mix.
4. Wash the tomatoes and cut into small wedges. Add to marinade and let stand 10-15 minutes.
5. Place the Swiss chard in a platter or salad bowl. Pour some of the tomato marinade over them. Dress by layering tomatoes and avocado. Season with the remaining marinade. Sprinkle with scallions and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

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