Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 67 of 83)

Jelly Doughnuts

December 5, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Hanukkah (or Chanukah) celebrates the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days during the re-dedication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem following the Jewish victory over pagan Syrian-Greeks in 165 B.C.E. Legend has it that the victors had only enough oil for one day but, miraculously, it lasted eight days. The Jewish Menorah commemorates this. My father, who held all religious symbols suspect, would often quip as to what kind of oil they were using: was it Progresso olive oil or Goya? Be it as it may, since oil is the cornerstone of the holiday, fried foods are often served during this time, the most popular being latkas, or potato pancakes. But one of my favorite treats at Hanukkah is sufganiyot, or jelly-filled doughnuts.

Jelly-filled doughnuts has an interesting history. They are variously called Berliners by German and paczki by Poles. No one really knows where or how they originated. Although some trace it to a 1485 cookbook, Kuchenmeisterei (Mastery of the Kitchen), which gives a recipe consisting of jam sandwiched between two rounds of yeast dough bread and deep-fried in lard. Then, sometime later, someone got the idea of injecting jelly into deep-fried doughnuts. In the upper Midwest jelly doughnuts are called “jam busters, and are extremely popular. If you’re fan of any kind of doughnut, these suckers are delicious.

JELLY DOUGHNUTS

2 envelopes (1/4 ounce each) active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
1 cup warm milk
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting baking sheets or surface

1/3 cup butter, softened

5 cups vegetable or canola oil for frying, plus more for coating a bowl

1 (13 1/2 ounce jar) strawberry jelly, fruit jelly or jam

Powdered sugar (as much as needed)

1. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water and let stand for about 5 minutes or until foamy.

2. In a large bowl, combine yeast mixture, milk, sugar, vanilla, salt, and flour. mix ingredients until smooth and soft but not sticky. If using a mixer, mix on low speed for a few minutes until a shaggy dough forms. Add butter, increase speed to medium, and mix until dough is smooth.

3. Grease another large bowel with oil. Form the dough into a ball. Place dough in the bowl, turning to coat with oil. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Set aside in a warm spot and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

4. Lightly flour a baking sheet or surface (a large wooden square block is perfect for this). Turn the dough onto the floured surface and, using a rolling pin, roll out until about 1/2-inch thick. Using a lightly floured 2-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible (should have 25 or more). Place on a lightly floured sheet or surface, spacing them apart. Again, loosely cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel, and let rise until doubled in size, about 20-30 minutes.

5. Heat oil in a deep fryer, large skillet or large pot to 350 degrees F. Using a flat spatula, carefully slide the dough rounds into hot oil and, working in batches to avoid overcrowding, fry until they rise to the surface, then turn over and fry until puffy and golden brown (2-3 minutes). Drain on paper towels.

6. When doughnuts have cooled, using a paring knife, cut a small slit in the side of the doughnut and fill this center with jelly (about 1 tablespoon), using a pastry injector, syringe, piping bag, or small spoon. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

Yield: 25 or more jelly doughnuts.

Caption: courtesy of petemonico.com

Coquito , A Puerto Rican Holiday Drink

November 22, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

A Puerto Rican Holiday Drink similar to Eggnog, or egg nog.
Available in my book: Page 255. https://www.amazon.com/Puerto-Rican-Cuisine-America-Nuyorican/dp/1568582447

The Reuben Sandwich

The famed Reuben Sandwich claims many fathers. One account states that Reuben Kulakofsky, a grocer from the Dundee neighborhood located west of midtown Omaha, Nebraska, invented the sandwich. Another version holds that it was created in 1914 by Arnold Reuben, owner of Reuben’s Delicatessen in New York. Still another version says that it was Alfred Scheuing, Reuben’s chef, who created the sandwich for Reuben’s son, Arnold Jr., in the 1930s. I first had the sandwich when I traveled to Indiana years ago, and discovered its popularity in the Midwest. Today, the Reuben Sandwich is ubiquitous from coast to coast.

REUBEN SANDWICH

8 slices dark rye bread

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup Thousand Island dressing or Russian dressing

8 slices Swiss cheese

8 slices corned beef, sliced thin (about ¼ pound)

1 cup drained sauerkraut

1. Preheat a large skillet or griddle on medium heat.

2. Lightly butter one side of bread slices. Spread 1 tablespoon Thousand Island dressing (or Russian dressing) on the other 4 bread slices. Follow with a layer of 1 slice Swiss cheese, 2 slices corned beef, 2 tablespoons sauerkraut, and an additional slice of Swiss cheese. Top with the buttered bread slices, buttered side up.

3. Grill both sides of sandwiches until bread is slightly toasted and cheese begins to melt, about 4 minutes per side. Serve with sweet or dill pickles.

Yield: 4 servings.

Sweet Potato Pie

October 22, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

My uncle Phillip, of late memory, had a lady friend, Margie Jones, who made the best sweet potato pie I ever tasted. When I was a youngster, we would trot over to her place in Harlem and feast on this delicacy. Uncle Phillip, who was a lady’s man extraordinaire, apparently appreciated the many attributes Miss Jones brought to the table, including her delicious pie. At the time I didn’t know that it was a traditional southern dish. I knew I just loved the dessert.

2-3 sweet potatoes, about 1 pound

½ cup butter, softened

½ cup milk

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

3 eggs

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup whipped cream.

1. Boil sweet potatoes whole in their skin for 40-50 minutes, or until done and tender. Run cold water over the potatoes and when cool, remove skin.

2. Place in a medium bowl and break apart with a fork. Add butter and mix well. Stir in sugar, milk, eggs, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and vanilla. Combine and mix well until mixture is smooth. Pour filling into pie crust.

3. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 55-60 minutes, or knife inserted in center comes out clean. Pie will puff up like a soufflé, and then will sink down as it cools. Serve garnished with whipped cream.

Yield: 6 servings or more.

Photo: courtesy of photobucket

Ham Hocks and Beans

October 11, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Back in my Marine Corps days one of the most memorable persons I met was Staff Sergeant Hollins. He was a warrior and lifer grunt who loved two things: the Marine Corps and ham hocks and beans. He would rhapsodize about the dish and how it was his favorite meal from boyhood onward. We knew that in the southern U.S., whether you were white or black, ham hocks and beans was, and is, a rite of passage. When I discovered how tasty it was I also became a fan of the dish.

I’m pretty certain Staff Sergeant Hollins would approve of the recipe given below. With a beer or, if you prefer, a hearty red wine such as a Cabernet or Chianti, nothing could be better.

1 pound dry pinto or navy white beans

4-6 smoked ham hocks (about 4-5 ounces each)

1 large onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

2 bay leaves

1. Soak beans in cool water for about 45 minutes. Drain, picking out any bad ones, gravel or rocks.

2. Place beans, ham hocks, onion, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, and bay leaves in a large Dutch oven or pot. Fill with water until an inch to cover beans. Bring to a boil, cover with lid and simmer on medium-low heat for 4 to 5 hours, stirring occasionally, adding more water if needed. Remove ham hocks when they are tender and meat fall off the bones. The longer you simmer the thicker the broth will become.

3. Remove ham hacks from the broth, and allow to cool so they can be handled. Remove meat from the ham hocks, discarding fat and bones and return to the stockpot. Remove bay leafs, adjust seasonings to taste, if necessary, and serve (I prefer it with steamed rice).

Yield: 4 servings or more.

Photo: Courtesy of heatherchristo.com

Southern Fried Chicken

September 24, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Almost every country has a fried chicken dish. But, in America, it’s southern fried chicken that takes the crown. First of all, why does it have to be southern and why is it called so? For this you have to go to the Scots. They liked frying their chicken rather than boiling and baking the bird like their English counterparts. When the Scots settled in the American south they brought this style of cooking with them. African-American slaves quickly adapted the method to plantation life since they were often allowed to raise their own chickens. This contributed to the dish becoming a traditional southern favorite. Let us note that it did not become popular in the North until well into the 19^th century. Today it is ubiquitous all over the U.S. My mother would make her own version of it in our Spanish Harlem neighborhood. And that is the recipe given below. With an ice cold beer or a bottle of pinot noir, nothing could be better.

SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN

1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into pieces

4 cups water

3 teaspoons salt

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

2 eggs

3 cups light cream or half-and-half

2 cups vegetable oil

1. Wash chicken pieces; then soak chicken in water and salt for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator.

2. In a large shallow dish, mix together the flour, salt, paprika, oregano, garlic powder, and pepper. In a separate bowl, mix eggs and cream.

3. Dredge chicken pieces in cream mixture, then in the seasoned flour until well coated.

4. Heat the oil in a large heavy frying pan or skillet (I prefer cast iron) until it’s at least 360 degrees F.

Place the chicken in the pan, trying not to crowd the pieces. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Check the chicken. When it’s golden brown, turn pieces, cover and cook for the next 5 minutes.

5. Remove cover and cook uncovered, turning occasionally, until cooked through (about another 20 minutes). Watch carefully to make sure the pieces don’t get too dark. If it’s frying too fast, reduce heat slightly. The key to this is to cover the pieces at the beginning to start the cooking process inside the chicken. Then uncover during the last part of the cooking time to get a nice and crispy golden brown finish.

Yield: 4 servings.

NOTE: These days, some prefer to place the seasoned flour inside a gallon ziplock bag, then coat the chicken in the bag a few pieces at a time. Use whatever method suits best or is more convenient.

The Joys of Garlic

September 12, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Let me say it up front. I am a serious, confirmed garlic-lover. Where people hold up their noses and scowl when garlic is mentioned, I embrace the bulb with the passion of a devout believer. I come from a culture where garlic is king. Count Dracula would have a hard time attacking us. Garlic (Latin name: Allium sativum) is a member of the onion family. It has been used throughout recorded history for both medicinal and culinary purposes. It is native to central Asia and has been around for 5,000 years. The ancient Egyptians were the first to cultivate it and it played an important role in their culture. The builders of the ancient pyramids were said to eat garlic to enhance their endurance and strength. Roman emperors were particularly fond of garlic. They used it an an antidote to poisons—something very popular at the time if you wanted to get rid of the top dog in the empire. The Spanish conquistadors used it as a preservative.

Garlic has great medicinal properties. It promotes the well being of heart function and helps maintain healthy blood circulation. One of its great health benefits is that it enhances the body’s immune cell activity. It helps regulate the body’s defenses against allergies; and helps loosen plaque from arterial walls. It also aids in regulating blood sugar levels. Not only that, it helps regulate the body’s blood pressure. So, if you have problems with high or low blood pressure, garlic can help to equalize it. The reason is that garlic contains the compound allicin, which not only lowers blood pressure, but also assists in regulating proper weight control. Garlic also reduces the risk of heart attacks and strokes. Studies have shown that two or three cloves a day have cut the risk of subsequent hearty attacks in half of heart patients. But most important of all, garlic contains germanium, an anti-cancer agent. Garlic had more of it than any other herb. Think of garlic as an anti-cancer food. All taken together, one can say that garlic is a powerful perfect natural antibiotic. As such it is effective against many bacteria, fungi and viruses. Back in the Middle Ages it was though to ward off the plague.

All the medicinal benefits aside, garlic is a wonderful seasoning. It adds aroma, taste and nutrition to foods. There is nothing better to give a dish that extra “oomph.” Yet for maximum flavor and nutritional benefits, always buy fresh garlic. Avoid garlic flakes, garlic powder and garlic paste. They ain’t as good culinarilly or otherwise. Buy garlic that is plumb and has an unbroken skin. Then simply squeeze the bulb between your fingers to check that it feels firm and is not damp. Avoid garlic that is soft, shriveled, moldy, or that has begun to sprout. Always store garlic in an uncovered or loosely covered container in a cool dark place. These days you can purchase garlic storage pots made of clay or marvel. They are perfect for this function. It’s not necessary to refrigerate garlic. And freezing raw garlic will reduce its flavor and change its texture.

The following is one of my favorite garlic recipes. It call for twelve cloves—that’s right: 12 cloves. Its an easy chicken dish for all us garlic fanatics out there.

CHICKEN WITH GARLIC SAUCE

1 broiler fryer chicken (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), cut up into serving-size pieces
1/3 cup olive oil
12 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced finely
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup chicken broth

1. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a medium-size skillet or frying pan (I prefer cast iron). Add chicken pieces and stir-fry until brown on all sides.
2. Add garlic and cook for about 3 minutes more. Add sesame oil, soy sauce and chicken broth.
3. Cook 5 minutes more, then lower flame to low simmer, cover, and cook 10 minutes more. Serve with steamed rice, pasta, or crusty bread.
Yield: 4 servings.

Tomatoes for the End of Summer

August 31, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

By now most of us are, as the saying goes, “tomatoed-out.” In the dark days of winter we dream of fresh, succulent vine-ripened tomatoes. By late August, we’ve just about had our fill. I mean, how many tomato salads or stuffed tomatoes can you have? Well, kiddies, the season will last until October. And, yes, there are still many innovative ways to use this vegetable. Below are given some ingenious ways to use tomatoes. So, in the middle of a frosty February, you can again begin to dream of the fresh juicy crop come June .

RAW TOMATO SAUCE

That’s right, a raw sauce where the tomatoes don’t have to be cooked. Simple: In a bowl, combine 1 pound chopped tomatoes or 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved; 1/2 cup diced mozzarella cheese; 1/3 cup chopped black olives; 1/4 cup olive oil; 1 teaspoon capers; 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar and 2 garlic cloves, minced. Stir in 1/4 cup fresh chopped basil, 1 teaspoon oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Let the bowl stand for 1/2 hour to allow the flavors to combine. Toss with you favorite hot pasta. 4 servings.

TOMATO WITH BASIL AND MOZZARELLA

The all time favorite, and the easiest thing to prepare: Wash and slice off the tops and bottoms of 1 pound tomatoes, and cut the tomatoes into about 3 slices each. Slice 1/2 pound mozzarella very thinly; wash and dry 10-12 large basil leaves (more if the leaves are small). On a salad plate, arrange the mozzarella and basil on the tomato slices, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with some oregano and pepper. 4-3 servings.

TOMATO GRATIN

A fancy-fied tomato dish to impress your guests: Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Cut 2 large beefsteak tomatoes into 1/2-inch slices. Arrange the slices, slightly overlapping, in an oiled 9-inch gratin dish or shallow casserole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons finely chopped basil, and 1 teaspoon oregano. Cook 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced, in a small pan or skillet over moderate heat, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle over the tomatoes, and bake in the middle of oven until bread crumbs are golden, about 15 minutes. 4 servings.

TOMATO-FETA PITA SANDWICHES

In a large bowl, combine 1/4 cup olive oil and 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon oregano, and salt and pepper to taste; 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved; 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced; 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped; 1/3 cup black olives, halved; 1 small red onion, chopped; and 1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley. Mix together, then stir in 1 cup crumbled feta cheese. Take 4 (8-inch) diameter pita bread, cut in halve and stuff with the tomato mixture. 4 servings.

HOMEMADE KETCHUP

That’s right, homemade ketchup. Believe me, much better than the stuff you get at the grocers, and much healthier. Store bought ketchup is all processed sugar and salt. Ca-ca. And the homemade brand is so easy to make: In a food processor, puree and blend 1/3 cup water; 3 small tomatoes, chopped; 2 tablespoons white vinegar; 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves; 1/4 teaspoon pepper; 1/3 cup honey; 1 tablespoon maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. That’s it. You’ll never use the store-bought stuff again.

Aioli

August 19, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Aioli is said to have originated in the Provence region of Southern France. It’s a traditional sauce composed of garlic, olive oil and egg. Yet there are many variations. Catalonia, in the northeastern part of the Iberian Peninsula, makes a version that uses olive oil and salt, pounded in a mortar until smooth, but minus the egg. The call it allioli. In Malta, they add crushed tomato to the mix. In other variations, mustard may be added, or even pears. Most people likened aioli to mayonnaise, because of its smooth, creamy texture. But it’s nothing like mayo, it’s distinctively garlicky.

Some of us may have experienced aioli as a spread on sandwiches or as a side for fries. It’s more versatile that that. You can drizzle it on salads, or as a dipping sauce for seafood, meat and vegetables. It’s good on cold roasts, and perfect as a tasty addition when a teaspoon or two is added to fish soups. You can toss some spaghetti or linguine with aioli sauce and top with Parmesan cheese for a rich pasta dish.

Aioli is a popular summer dish when fresh vegetables and juicy garlic are all over the place. That being said, as a creamy condiment it’s good any time of the year. And it is quite easy to make at home. You can bypass the traditional mortar and pestle by using a bender or food processor. Saves a lot of time and mess. The only caveat is the question of using a raw egg. If you are concerned about this, then an egg substitute can be used in place of the raw egg.

AIOLI

Note: all ingredients must be at room temperature
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste (preferably sea salt)
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper to taste

1. Place garlic and salt in a blender or food processor, and pulse for about 2-3 seconds.
2. Add lemon juice and egg. Pulse the mixture in intervals until it well combined. Do not blend the mixture more than necessary.
3. Turn on the food processor again, and slowly add the oil, a few drops at a time. After about 1/3 of the oil has been added, add remaining oil in a slow steady stream. If the mixture is too thick, you can add a little water and blend in into the mixture until desired consistency.
4. Season with pepper and serve.
Yield: approximately 1 1/2 cups.

Note: picture courtesy of Anne Cusack/LAT

Gazpacho con Ajo Blanco

August 9, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Gazpacho is the perfect summer dish, especially when it’s just too hot to cook. This famed Spanish soup is of Moorish origins. Remember that the Moors (Muslims of Northern Africa ) occupied Spain for over seven centuries. Some etymologists suggest that the word, gazpacho, derives from the Arabic word for soaked bread. Others say that it may have come from the word caspa, which means residue or fragment—as in the residue or fragments of bread used in the original recipe.

Andalusia is renowned as the home of gazpacho, especially in the province of Malaga. It probably originated as a soup of soaked bread, olive oil, and garlic. Today the Spaniards would call this an ajo blanco, or garlic soup. And this was the most common gazpacho until the introduction of the tomato to the European continent, which resulted in the chilled tomato concoction of today.

Today, Andalusian gazpacho is made with ripe tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, garlic, moistened bread, and ice water. But I’ve gone back to the original gazpacho as derived from its Moorish influence.

GAZPACHO CON AJO BLANCO

1 cup untrimmed fresh bread, cubed
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
Cold water
4 tablespoons chopped scallions

1. Soak the bread in water. Drain and squeeze to extract excess moisture.
2. In a mortar (preferably earthenware), pound the garlic until crushed.
3. In a wooden bowl, mix the garlic, bread, and salt, and stir in the olive oil.
4. Add cold water as desired, to get the smoothness of a soup. Recall this the original gazpacho, which is served at room temperature, garnished with chopped scallions. But, if you want, you can serve it chill after an hour or so in the fridge.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: You can modify this recipe for Malaga-Style Gazpacho by adding 2/3 cup crushed peeled almonds and 1/2 teaspoonr red wine vinegar before adding the cold water.

Author, Warrior, and Teacher