Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 73 of 83)

Pumpkin Gratin


Halloween is upon us yet again. And the jack-o-lanterns are out. Anybody ever consider cooking those suckers? I would not recommend it. The traditional pumpkin used as a jack-o-lantern motif makes for a flavorless, insipid dish. That’s why they are used for decorations. In my culture, pumpkin are prized as bianda or cooked root plants that we use to enhance a meal. Traditionally, our favorite pumpkin dish is very simple: slice a piece of pumpkin, peel, remove seeds, and boil until tender. Then serve with olive oil and vinegar.

But I’ve experimented with pumpkin dishes and found that they make a great gratin. A gratin (pronounced grah-tan) comes from French cooking. It is a dish prepared with a brown crust. My pumpkin gratin is quick and easy to make, and it’s tasty to boot. Again, use small available commercial pumpkin, not the Halloween type or, better yet, you can use winter squash or butternut squash.

So, here goes Le gratin de Courge, as our French brethren would say. It makes a fabulous side dish or accompaniment to any meal.

PUMPKIN GRATIN

2 to 2 1/2 pound pumpkin, butternut, or other winter squash, halved, seeded, peeled, and cut
into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup flour
1/3 cup olive oil
8 garlic cloves (yes, 8), finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano (or pinch dried)

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
2. Toss the pumpkin or squash cubes in the flour until they are evenly coated.
3. Generously oil the bottom and sides of an ovenproof casserole, Dutch oven, or cast-iron pan (you will have some oil left over). Fill the casserole with the pumpkin or squash. Then scatter the garlic and parsley over it, and season with salt, pepper, and oregano. Sprinkle the remaining oil over the pumpkin or squash.
4. Place in oven and bake for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until the top has formed a rich dark crust. Note that it’s not necessary to add water during cooking since the pumpkin or squash produces enough liquid on its own.
Yield: 4 servings.

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Chicken Noodle Soup (P.R. Style)


Chicken noodle soup. What is lovingly termed “Jewish penicillin.” We Puerto Ricans have our own version of it, and just as good. We use noodles, which are called fideos (fee-deh-os). These noodles are thin coiled strands similar to angel’s hair or vermicelli. People back on the island, in the old days, read the package name and took it to mean any kind of noodles. In time fideos became the most popular pasta in both the island and the mainland. It’s use is mainly in soups. When Puerto Ricans first migrated to New York back in the 1940s and 50s, and went shopping, they wouldn’t ask for noodles, they would ask for fideos. It was the only pasta pasta we knew, apart from spaghetti.

I would say our chicken noodle soup is as healthy and beneficial as its Jewish counterpart; and it has a particular Latin flavor. As noted, if you can’t find the fideos, any thin strand pasta will do as well. You can find this recipe (and others) in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books).

SOPA DE POLLO CON FIDEOS (Chicken Noodle Soup)

1 broiler fryer (about 2-2 1/2 pounds, cut in parts)
2 quarts (8 cups) water
1/2 pound fideos #169 (see above)
2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 packet Sason Goya (coriander and annatto—found in any supermarket these days)
1 chicken bouillon cube
1/4 cup tomato sauce
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry.
2. Place chicken in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or until chicken is very tender.
5. Remove chicken to a cutting board and let cool. Bone chicken, discarding bones and skin. Cut meat into bite-size pieces
4. Add chicken pieces, fideos, potatoes, Sason Goya, bouillon cube and tomato sauce to the broth. Add another cup of water, if needed, and season with salt and pepper.
6. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. garnish with parsley.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Hummus



When I was a youngster growing up back on the block, we never heard of hummus. It wasn’t until my early adult-hood that I became aware of this Middle Eastern savory. Today its is ubiquitous. You see it everywhere. No party, wedding, birthday bash, or social function would be complete without it. It’s used as a spread, dip, or pita filling. Most people get it in the supermarket, with all the additives that come with it to preserve shelf-life. However, some of us would never buy the store bought stuff. Why? Because it is so EASY to make. Ten minutes, top, and you have grade A hummus.

Hummus is a concoction of chick peas (garbanzo beans), Tahini, or sesame seed paste. I use Tahini, which can be found in any store and is simply pureed roasted sesame seeds. Apart from using hummus as dip or over veggies, I like it over rice. Try it. It’ll spice up the old grain. But my favorite hummus recipe is with pasta and olives. Simple: cook any tubular pasta (penne, macaroni, rigatoni, ditalini, etc.) as per package directions. Drain, then add a cup of hummus, and one (6-oz) can medium or large black olives (drained under cold running water to remove excess salt, and sliced). Mix it all together, and you have a great, delish pasta dish. Quick and Nutritious.

Of course, you need to make the hummus first. So, here is my quick hummus recipe. You’ll never buy the shelf stuff ever again.

BASIC HUMMUS

1 (15-oz) can garbanzo beans (chick peas)

1/3 cup Tahini

1/4 cup lemon juice

3 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon olive oil

1. Place all ingredients, except the olive oil, in a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth.

2. Transfer to a serving bowl or dish. Drizzle olive oil over the mixture and serve.

Yield: about 2 cups (the recipe can be doubled for additional servings)

NOTE: Some people like to add cumin (about 1 teaspoon) and a pinch of paprika to the recipe for a more pronounced Middle Eastern flavor. Do whatever suits you best.

Fried Green Plantains (Tostones)

Please enjoy the Video: If you can not see it click here

I enjoyed making this video with my good friend this week.

The Hard Drive Doctor

We plan on doing more Cooking Videos as time passes.

Rossana Rossi’s Red Clam Sauce


One of my dear friends, Rossana Rossi, had sent me (at my request) a delicious clam sauce. It is truly scrumptious. Now, in her recipe, fresh clams are used. If you don’t want the bother or trouble of shucking fresh clams, I guess you can buy chopped or whole clams from a jar at the supermarket. But, I tell ya, it ain’t the same. The taste and texture of fresh clams is unequal in this dish.

As to the type of clams used? There is a variety. You got Chowder clams that are used for (you guessed it) clam chowder. There are Cherrystone clams, not as large as chowder clams. You could say they’re the second largest, and go great in a clam sauce. Then there Top Neck clams that are used mainly for clams casino and clams on the half shell. And, finally, Little Neck clams that can be used in a clam sauce as well as steamers. They are tiny and sweet.

Rossana says this is her personal recipe for clam sauce, and she invented it about a month ago while working on a “super tasty awesome tomato sauce.” It’s a “Dominican/Italian” recipe.

ROSANNA ROSSI’S RED CLAM SAUCE

2 dozen Cherrystone clams, or 4 pounds Little Neck clams, scrubbed clean and picked over
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 teaspoons oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
2 tablespoons vinegar (preferably herb-infused)
1 teaspoon rosemary
1 whole cinnamon stick

1. In a large frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Add garlic and saute quickly (do not let the garlic burn). Add tomatoes, oregano, thyme, vinegar, rosemary and cinnamon stick. Lower heat and simmer about an hour or so (Rossana says she cooks her sauce for 2 hours).
2. While the tomato sauce is cooking, place about 1-inch water in a large saucepan, add clams and steam them open. Place shell-less clams in a plate and set aside. Save the water left in the saucepan. If you desire, once clams have cooled you can chop them before adding to the sauce, or you can leave them as is.
3. When the sauce is just about done, add the clams and clam water. Simmer until the flavors are blended. The trick is not to overcook the clams; just reheat.
4. Serve over any long-type pasta such as linguini, spaghetti, perciatelli, or fettuccine.
Yield: 6 servings or more

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Real Barbecued Chicken


The Labor Day Holiday is upon us. So, before you put away the flip-flops and the old grill, here’s one more outdoor recipe. And what could be anymore American than barbecued chicken? By that I mean real barbecued chicken. One that uses, for once, your own barbecued sauce, not that crap sold in supermarkets and which is chock full of chemicals and “enhancers.” The thing is, barbecue sauce is very easy to make. When I ventured down South during my young manhood, everyone I met made their own sauce; and everyone had their own secret ingredient, whether it was a little bourbon whiskey put in to add a bit of dash, or some mesquite in the hot coals to give the meat some character.

The two sauces I give below use ingredients that can be easily found. No need to get fancy with some undefinable herb or spice. We keep it simple. The idea is to fix up the sauce, lather the chicken, grill quickly, and enjoy the farewell to summer with your mates and fellows.

BARBECUED CHICKEN

Sauce #1

1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Sauce #2

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger or 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon chili powder, or to taste
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

1. Take one broiler chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, and split it into two halves. Pound the chicken on a cutting board or flat surface with a mallet or the bottom of a skillet. This will ensure that the chicken lies flat and cooks more evenly on the grill.
2. Rub the chicken with salt, pepper, and oregano to taste; then rub all over with about 1/3 cup olive oil and two tablespoons red wine vinegar. Set aside.
3. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small pan, and stir over moderate heat until blended.
4. Place chicken halves, skin side up on a heated gas grill or over hot coals. Brush the sauce over the skin side of the chicken and grill, without turning about 10 minutes. Turn and brush the other side. Continue cooking and basting every 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Cooking time will depend on how hot the grill is and how close it is to the heat source. For faster cooking you may want the grill top closed.
Note: the recipe can be doubled if you want to grill 2 chickens.

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Mosques in America: A Perspective


The uproar over the proposed mosque/cultural center on Ground Zero makes some of us, on both sides of the argument, uncomfortable. When that paragon of of marital fidelity, Newt Gingrich, equates Islam with Nazis, then the thing has gotten out of hand. The whole episode reflects a deep, personal and passionate argument. And what’s lost in the argument is that the Islamic creed and American principles go back a long way, sometimes in tandem, and sometimes as opposites. This is not the first time the mosque issue has come up, and certainly it will not be the last. Whether one favors the building of the mosque/cultural center or not, one should understand the historical record. If nothing else, it gives us a guidepost as to understanding America’s relation to Islam. And, though most of us may not know it, it’s a long and storied history.

The earliest documented case of a Muslim coming to these shores is that of a Dutchman, Anthony Janszoon van Salee. He came to what was then New Amsterdam (later New York) in 1630; and was referred to by his compatriots as a “Turk.” The first Muslim to enter the historical record is one Estevanico of Azamor, a Berber from North Africa who explored parts of the Midwest for the Spanish Empire. As far as we know, the first American public official to acknowledge the impact of Islam was John Adams who, in his treatise Thoughts on Government, praised the prophet Muhammad as a “sober inquirer after truth” alongside Confucius, Zoroaster, Socrates and other “pagan and Christian thinkers.” Later on, in 1790, the South Carolina legislature granted special legal status to a community of Moroccans, 12 years after the Sultan of Morocco became the first foreign head of state to recognize the U.S. That’s right, a Muslim nation was the first to recognize our existence.

Relations between Muslim nations and America were not always that rosy. In Marine Corps boot camp we recruits had to learn the Marine Corps anthem. The opening line is “From the halls of Montezuma to the Shores of Tripoli.” The Tripoli part has to do with the U.S. war against the Barbary Pirates, a bunch of Muslim privateers who operated out of bases in North Africa; and, who from 1785 to 1815 demanded tribute from the U.S. in order for us to trade with the Orient, without having U.S. ships boarded and taken. Finally, the Americans had had enough and the marines were sent in to stop the extortion.

As for mosques in America? No less a notable than Benjamin Franklin, wrote in his autobiography (published in 1791) that he “did not disapprove” of a meeting place in Pennsylvania that was design to accommodate all religions. He stated that “even if the Mufti of Constantinople were to send a missionary to preach Mohammedanism to us, he would find a pulpit for his service.” Muslims took him at his word and in 1907, immigrants from the Podliasie region of Poland founded the first Muslim organization in New York City, The American Mohammedan Society. But it wasn’t until 1915 that the first American mosque was founded by Albanian Muslims in Biddeford, Maine. The nest big mosque, the Al-Sadig Mosque, was built in the Bronzeville neighborhood of Chicago in 1920. And in 1934, the first building specifically built to be a mosque was established in Cedar rapids, Iowa. By 1945 a mosque existed in Dearborn, Michigan, home to the largest Arab-American population in the U.S. The building of mosques increased in the 1920s and 30s, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that construction really sped up. Statistics note that 87% of mosques founded in the U.S. were established within the last three decades. Today there are from 40,000 t0 50,000 mosques, and California has more mosques than any other state.

There are an estimated 2.5 million Muslims in the country. What is not know is that, historically, they tended to support the Republican Party. In the 2000 presidential election nearly 80% of Muslim-Americans supported George W. Bush over his Democratic opponent, Al Gore. Of course, within recent years, with all that’s been going on, that support has sharply declined.

In the current on-going debate, I can understand both viewpoints. Religious freedom, whether you believe in religion or not, is one of our bed-rock principles. The right to attend a place of worship in enshrined in our psyche. The Constitution guarantees that right. Still, some argue, having a mosque so close to where 3,000 of our citizens were murdered (300 of whom were Muslim) is like pouring salt on the wound of those who lost friends and family on 9/11. The proponents of the mosque/cultural center should have been aware of that fact, however well intentioned. Nevertheless, because of the controversy, we are suffering a black eye in the Muslim world. Eventually, the controversy will subside, cooler heads will prevail, but, for the time being, the healing will take a long time in coming.

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Grillin’ Chicken

We’re not going to put away that grill anytime soon. The long hot summer continues. So does al fresco cooking. In that vein, let’s grill some more. This time, chicken. Believe it or not, chicken is one of the most easiest things to cook on a grill. Problem is, most times, it’s burnt chicken on the outside and, almost raw chicken on the inside. I discovered a long time ago, to get perfectly grill, cooked chicken, simply parboil the chicken pieces beforehand. Now, this may not be necessary if cooking chicken breasts, especially if they have been pounded into thin pieces. That being said, making chicken on a grill is a quick straightforward thing. It all depends on the herbs or sauce used in the cooking.

Below are three easy grilling recipes for poultry. Don’t have access to a grill? You can do same by broiling chicken in the oven.

#1: GRILLED POULTRY

For this recipe you can use small chickens, Cornish game hens, or even quail. Rinse poultry under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Split the poultry in half. In a bowl, combine 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon dried oregano, 3 minced garlic cloves, and 1/4 teaspoon dried sage. Add poultry and marinate for about 30 minutes or more. Remove from marinade and grill the poultry pieces directly over medium coals or gas grill. Cook for about 20 minutes, turning and basting frequently with the marinade mixture.

#2: SIMPLE GRILLED CHICKEN
4 chicken breasts
1/3 cup olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon rosemary
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1. In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients except for the chicken breasts, and process until smooth.
2. Place chicken in a large bowl or, better still, in a resealable plastic bag ( I like the ones that have the zip lock). Pour marinade mixture over chicken and cover (if using bowl), or seal, if using bag. Place in the refrigerator and let marinate for 1-2 hours (you can even marinate overnight if you want a full, rich flavor).
3. Drain marinade and reserve. Grill chicken, turning and basting frequently with marinade for about 30-40 minutes or until desired tenderness.

#3 GINGER-HONEY GLAZE GRILL CHICKEN

1 2 1/2-to-3 pound chicken, quartered or cut into serving pieces
Olive oil, melted margarine or butter
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon finely shredded orange peel
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup sliced scallions
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons corn starch
1 teaspoon grated ginger

1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place chicken in a pot with water to cover, bring to a boil, and parboil for about 2 minutes.
2. Remove chicken and brush with oil, melted margarine or butter. Sprinkle with pepper and oregano. Set aside
3. To make Ginger-Honey Glaze: combine remaining ingredients in a small skillet or frying pan. Cook and stir over medium heat until bubbly. Cook, stirring all the time, about 2 minutes more.
4. Place chicken, skin side down in an uncovered grill directly over medium coals or gas grill, and cook for 20 minutes. Turn and grill for 15-20 minutes more or until desired tenderness, basting often with the Ginger-Honey Glaze.

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Cold Noodle Salads for Summer


We are still in the thick of it, kiddies. Me and my significant other were in cool, clear Vermont. But now we’re back in the city, the Apple, or as it has been referred to as of late, the Baked Apple. It’s been a hot, cruel summer. The only thing I look forward to is the free outdoor concerts in Central Park where you can have a good outdoor picnic while sipping a light wine. One of my favorite picnic dishes (and summer food) are cold noodle salads. They are easy to prepare, and delicious. Add some cold chicken, fruit, cheese, and good bottle of bubbly, and you’re set.

Almost any kind of pasta can be used for a cold noodle salad. My favorites, however, are oriental noodles. By that, I mean Japanese udon noodles, buckwheat noodles (soba), or fresh Chinese egg noodles. Below are given two recipes. One using soba noodles, and the other, Chinese noodles. If you don’t access to these, then any pasta noodles will do (linguini, angel hair, spaghetti, bucatini, perciatelli, etc.). The first recipe calls for hot sesame oil which can be found in any Asian or Oriental store.

#1: COLD NOODLES IN SESAME SAUCE

1 pound fresh, thin Chinese egg noodles
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon hot sesame oil (if you really like your noodles very hot, then you can make it 1 teaspoon or more)
1 tablespoons regular sesame oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar or white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
6 scallions, cut into ringlets

1. Bring salted water to a boil, add noodles and cook for just 2 or 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.
2. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over noodles, tossing until well blended. Cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

#2: COLD JAPANESE NOODLES

1 pound Japanese noodles (udon or soba)
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red peppers (pepe rosso)
6 scallions, cut into ringlets
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Bring salted water to a boil and cook noodles about 4-5 minutes or until desired tenderness. Drain and rinse under cold running water.
2. In the same pot, heat together the sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, and red peppers. Add the noodles, and toss well until blended. Add the cilantro, cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Grilled Steak with Peppercorns

One of the most popular and easiest dishes to make is steak au poivre vert. That is, steak cooked with green peppercorns. It’s a classic, and a favorite with firemen in firehouses because it is so easy to prepare, and still considered classically French. Well, the same deal can be done in the hot summer months on the old grill. And you don’t need green peppercorns. If you don’t have them, you can use regular black peppercorns which can be found in any grocery store. No need to be fancy with the meat, unless you want to. Almost any steak variety can be used, and not just the top quality stuff like rump, porterhouse or rib-eye. Usually, for this type of grilling the best is strip steak, boneless beef steak, beef tenderloin, top round or, if you want to spend a little more cash, sirloin. The steak should be anywhere between 1-inch to 1 1/2-inch thick.

With almost any food item, there are two ways to grill: direct heat and indirect heat. With direct grilling the meat is placed directly over the heat source. This is the basic and most preferred method. For indirect grilling, the heat source is off to the side of where the meat is cooked. For a gas grill this means turning on the burner on one side but cooking the meat on the other side of the grill. The same with a charcoal grill. Just have the heated coals on one side and cooked the meat on the other side. I am not partial to indirect grilling. I like the meat cooked and seared. Choose whatever way works best.

Grilled Peppercorn Steaks
4 steaks
3/4 cup whole black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup scallions, chopped (can use both green and white parts)
2 cups red wine
1/3 cup capers, drained

1. Put peppercorns, garlic, and oregano in a mortar. Pound until crushed. Add olive oil and mix thoroughly.
2. Coat both sides of steaks with peppercorn-olive oil mixture.
3. Grill steaks, covered with grill lid, about 5-6 minutes per side or until desired doneness.
4. Melt butter is a small skillet. Add scallions and saute 1-2 minutes. Add wine and capers, and cook until liquid is reduced by half (about 10-15 minutes). Pour over steaks and serve. Note that this part can be done in the kitchen ahead of time so you can have it ready by the grill.
Yield: 4 servings.

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