Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 74 of 83)

Thai Noodles

My friend, Paul Goldstein, has become a maven in terms of Thai cooking. He’s spent some time in Thailand, and its cuisine has really captured him. Which is great for me since I’m always in the market for some good recipes. And this is one of them. It’s simply rice noodles in a sauce with chicken and broccoli added to it.

Noodles are ubiquitous in Thai cuisine. Some say there are over 300 varieties. The most commonly used are rice noodles, which come in three varieties: sen yai (wide flat noodles), sen lek (thin flat noodles), and sen mee or sen mi, which are thin and round and are called vermicelli in the West. There are also chicken noodles (gu-tiaw gai), and pork or beef noodles (gu-tiaw rua); as well as barni, noodles made from eggs and wheat floor and usually sold fresh. If you can get these fresh noodles, you are in heaven. Another dry variety are mung bean flour noodles called wunsen. They are very thin and are known to us as cellophane noodles.

The recipe, called Chicken Lard Nah, uses wide precooked rice noodles. They do have thinner pre-sliced, precooked rice noodles, but Paul prefers cutting the wide noodles to the size he wants. The dish calls for osyter sauce, but Paul admits he didn’t get the sauce quite right so he experimented and came up with something else. In this case, sweet chili sauce, which Paul notes you can get at the local oriental grocery store for $1.89 or thereabouts. Chilies were introduced into Thailand by the Portuguese in the 16th century. And their cuisine has never been the same since. They love their chili.

The recipe is very easy and quick to make, quite tasty and healthy—except for the sweet chili sauce which has a high level of salt. But, as Pablo says, if you add it to the water in the pan, there’s no problem .

PABLO’S CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI WITH RICE NOODLES

3 tablespoons peanut oil, olive oil, or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons water
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 1/2-inch wide strips
1 head fresh broccoli, cut into florets
6 separated strips (1 1/2-inch) precooked rice noodles
Sweet chili sauce to taste
1 medium to large ripe tomato, cut in half and then sliced into quarters

1. In a cast-iron pan or wok, add the oil and water, and mix.
2. Add chicken strips and broccoli florets. Cook for about two minutes. Cover the chicken and vegetable with the rice noodles.
3. Cook for about 5-8 minutes, stirring constantly, making sure there’s enough water to steam everything or else the noodles will stick. If necessary, add a little bit more water.
4. Add sweet chili sauce and mix well with the liquid remaining in the pan or wok.
5. Garnish with tomato.
Yield: 4 servings.

Salad Time!

July 6, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

It’s hot as Hades out there, kiddies. Cooking is the last thing on your mind. The idea of lighting up that stove—ug! Even the old barbecue grill starts looking unappetizing. Still, we need sustenance. That means, salad time!—that ole stand-by. And by that I mean using fresh summer greens (with some canned stuff when needed. It doesn’t hurt).
Given below are given some quick and easy salad dishes. No cooking necessary. The recipes start from the simplest to a more substantial Salad Nicoise (which uses boiled eggs—and those you can get at the deli). Anyway, Here goes.

Basic Avocado Salad: Take one medium to large ripe avocado; peel, and cut into slices length-wise. Place on a serving plate, drizzle with olive oil and red-wine vinegar. Sprinkle with fresh or dried oregano, and a pinch of salt. That’s it. Serve with bread.

Cucumber Salad: In a salad bowl, place 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar. Pour over cucumbers and marinate 15-20 minutes. You can serve the cukes as is or, to liven it up more, you can stir in 1/2 cup sour cream and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.

Broccoli Salad: In a large salad bowl, combine 2 pounds fresh broccoli, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces; 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese; and 1 medium red onion, sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl combine 1 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Add to salad and toss to coat.

Veggie Salad: In a bowl, mix one head cauliflower, broken into florets; 1 head lettuce, washed and dried thoroughly; one medium red onion, sliced thin; and one cup fresh or frozen peas. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 cups mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 2 teaspoons white vinegar. Pour over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.

Green Salad: Rinse and drain well one head Bibb lettuce, 1 bunch fresh spinach, 1 bunch escarole lettuce, and 1 bunch endive. Tear into bite-sized pieces and toss in a large salad bowl. In a blender or food processor combine 1/2 cup olive oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1 teaspoon dry mustard; 1 teaspoon celery seed; and 4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled. Pour over salad greens and toss gently. If desired, you can garnish with cooked and crumbled bacon (if you can stand the idea of cooking anything).

String Bean Salad: Marinate overnight in half a cup white vinegar: one pound fresh or frozen green beans, and 1 cup black olives, with salt and pepper to taste. Next day, combine 1 cup sour cream; 1/2 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons chopped chives; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard; and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Drain beans and olives from marinade, and toss lightly with the dressing ingredients.

Three Bean Salad: In a mixing bowl, combine 1 can (16 ounces) garbanzo beans (chick peas), drained; 1 can (l6 ounces) red kidney beans, drained; 1 can (16 ounces) white Cannellini beans, drained. Add 1/2 cup prepared Italian dressing; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning; 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix together and refrigerate 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Drain and serve.

Salad Nicoise

1-2 heads Romaine or Boston lettuce, washed and drained
1 medium green pepper (pimento), slice thinly
1 red onion, sliced thinly
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
3 hard boiled eggs, quartered
12 big or jumbo pitted olives
2 cans tuna fish (in water), drained and broken into chunks
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon mustard (preferably dijon)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Line a large salad bowl with the lettuce leaves.
2. Arrange the green pepper, onion, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and olives, in groups on top of the lettuce. Put the tuna fish chunks in the middle.
3. In a small bowl, combine the anchovy fillets, garlic, mustard, olive oil and vinegar. Pour over the salad, cover and chill for 30 minutes.

There you have it. Some traditional, and not so traditional salad dishes. If nothing still gets you, then just make some ripe tomato sandwiches with mustard and mayo on sliced bread. My mom use to do this during the summers back in East Harlem, and we loved the suckers.

A Republic on the Edge

June 25, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The latest flap over President Obama’s firing of General Stanley McChrystal has brought to mind the old argument of the inevitable clash between civilian leadership and the military. We have been fortunate among nations that our tradition of civilian oversight has never been challenged. This is how the Founding Fathers envisioned it, and this is how it has been. However, I believe that we are at a crossroads at this point in time, and the danger lurks of a considerable disconnect between civilian authority and military responsibility.

As one who has served this nation in time of conflict, and who would do it again willingly, I am concerned, as are others, of what has been referred to as this “cultural divide” between those who serve in our military, and those who have not. This nation has always cherished the ideal of the citizen-soldier. It began at our inception when a bunch of rag-tag farmers took on the British Empire at Lexington. It grew to its apotheosis when citizen-soldiers fought to both sides, North and South, during the crucible of the Civil War. It happened again in both World Wars when citizens fought under the same banner against the evil of Fascism. In the defining struggle of my generation, Vietnam, despite the protests and upheavals, it was still a citizen army that bore the brunt of the struggle. There was one cultural leveller, and that was the draft.

The draft is no longer with us, having been rescinded years ago. What we have now is an all-volunteer army. Unfortunately, this has only exacerbated the chasm between America’s military and its civilian population. In reality, what we have today is an armed force, by and large, composed of poor whites, blacks and minorities led by a predominantly white officer corps. The sons and daughters of the elite, of legislators, of the upper brackets (with, of course, some exceptions) do not have to put themselves in harms way. Those who can’t find work when the economy is good (let alone when we’re in an awful depression) or who do not have the wherewithal to go to college, or can’t get access to advancement and even good health care, they are the ones who sign up. And they serve selflessly, one long tour after another while the rest of us can’t even fathom what they are going through. Thus the military has become an arm onto itself, aloof, apart and, yes, resentful of a leadership that has no idea of what it is to face fire. C.E. Montague once stated, “War hath no fury like the noncombatant.” And it is the non-combatants, like a recent vice-president who claimed six deferments during the Vietnam war so as not to serve, who now make policy for those who must put their lives on the line.

This is not a good scenario. When a military becomes estranged from the nation is must protect, dissension and chaos will follow, as occurred with the early Roman Republic when a dysfunctional and ineffectual government succumbed to the legions who despised it. I’m not claiming this is our fate as of yet. But if this becomes a generational pattern with a growing separation between the political leaders and the military, it won’t be long before that military losses respect for the politicos. And if there is no longer any respect for distant, elite rulers, then why should the soldiers obey them?

The last President we had who served in the military (and I’m not talking about George W. Bush’s stint in the Air National Guard protecting us from the Gulf of Mexico) was Jimmy Carter, who had been a naval officer. Now, being a veteran is not a requirement for being a good Commander-in-Chief. Franklin Delano Roosevelt never served in uniform, yet he was a superb executive during World War II. But as was shown during the last Bush administration, having a cabinet of “furious non-combatants” is not necessarily a good thing. Those who have never seen battle may be too readily willing to commit us to questionable military endeavors. If the Congress at that time knew that their sons and daughters might have to serve in a dubious war, I doubt they would have been so willing in committing us to a uncertain adventure in Iraq.

My humble view (and this may trouble both my liberal and conservative friends) is that the draft should be reinstalled. Some European countries have a unique method of conscription. Everyone serves either in the military or a comparable national service for one year, with no deferments for anyone. One year, when you come out of high school is not going to ruin your life or prospects For those who like the military, they can stay in. For those who want to pursue a civilian career, they can pursue that as well. An equitable system for all. Also, and I say this with great pride, we are fortunate to be Americans; it’s only fair we should give something back, and not have one percent of the population having to bear the brunt of protecting us. Because, my friends, I despair that the way we are going, someday in our future we just may have some Caesar who may want to “save” the nation. And that would be the worst of all outcomes.

Rama Rong Song Chicken

June 21, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Recently, my dear friend, Paul Goldstein, sent me an e-mail with regard to my posts on Chinese wok cooking. He, like I, is an avid fan of wok cuisine; and he also prefers using a cast-ironwok. Following this vein, he gave me a Thai recipe that can also be prepared in a wok. He stated it’s one of the easiest Thai recipes to make. I tried it, and he’s right. Quick and easy, and delicious.

Truthfully, I use a wok constantly for cooking these days, but I’ve never considered preparing a Thai recipe with it. But it does make sense. Both cuisines are Asian and full of flavor.

If you don’t own a wok, Paul’s recipe can also be done using a deep pan or pot. The recipe calls for using Satay peanut sauce, which you can get in any Asian store, or most supermarkets these days. So here it is: Pablo’s Rama Rong Chicken (with peanut sauce and spinach over rice).

RAMA RONG SONG CHICKEN

1 to 1 1/2 cups water

2 tablespoons peanut or olive oil

1 pound boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch strips

1 pound fresh or frozen spinach ( if using fresh, cut into bite-sized pieces)

4 cups ( or more) cooked rice

2 tablespoons Satay peanut sauce diluted in 1/4 cup water

1 small red bell pepper (pimento), cored and sliced thinly

1. In a wok, add the water and oil; and place a steamer rack inside. If you don’t have a steamer rack, punch holes in an aluminum pie plate and place the pie plate atop a small can (about 5-6 ounces) inside the wok. The amount of water used will depend on height of can. Just make sure you have enough water to steam the chicken and spinach.

2. Bring water to a boil. Place chicken on plate, cover, and steam for about 5 minutes.

3. Add spinach and cook for about another 3-4 minutes (depending on whether spinach is fresh or frozen).

5. Fill a serving bowl with cooked rice, then top with chicken and spinach.

6. Pour Satay sauce over chicken and spinach, and arrange red pepper slices on top as a garnish.

Yield: 4 or more servings.

Nouveau Grilling

June 15, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Summer time an’ the livin’ is easy—which means that the grilling/barbecue season is here. But, you know what, kiddies—is it going to be the same old franks, burgers and half-burnt chicken? Now, not that there’s anything wrong with franks, burgers and half-burnt chicken. But why not try something different and out-of-the ordinary, like grilling fish? You heard it right: fish, like in seafood. Fish is perfect for barbecuing and grilling. It’s moist, delicious and easy to cook. Probably easier than grilling a steak.

Definitions are in order here. To my mind, grilling is just that: roasting meat outdoors over an open fire, grill, framework, or pit. Barbecue is when you add a highly seasoned sauce. So, wanna barbecue fish? Just add your favorite BBQ sauce. It’ll probably be better for you than some contaminated, e-coli meat.

Below are given two simple but scrumptious (I love the word) fish dishes. Both are made with what in the Old World is known as “al salmoriglio”—with an oil and lemon sauce. Better tasting and healthier for you, believe me. Both recipes can be cooked on a charcoal grill, brazier, or gas grill. In each case, preheat the brazier or grill. If you don’t have an backyard and a grill, you can also cook the fish in a broiler. In the first recipe given, you have to marinate the fish. This gives it a richer flavor. In the second recipe, marinating is not necessary, if you’re in a hurry. Both recipes will yield about 4 servings.

PESCE AL SALMORIGLIO (Fish steaks with oil and lemon sauce)

Recipe I:

In a covered bowl or container, combine 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1/2 cup fresh chopped basil, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Add to the marinade 2 pounds fish steaks (swordfish, salmon, cod, halibut, or tile fish) cut crosswise into 1/2-inch thick pieces. Refrigerate for 3 hours or, better yet, overnight. Turn fish several times in the marinade. Preheat grill; and brush grill with a little olive oil. When grill is quite hot, place fish steaks on grill and cook quickly over high heat. The fish should be close to the surface heat, and it should take about 2 minutes to cook on one side. Turn over quickly but carefully and cook about 2 minutes or slightly longer on the other side. Do not overcook or fish steaks will become too dry. Remove fish from grill and serve with lemon wedges, if desired.

Recipe II:

In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. (Note: in this recipe, the basil is optional.) Mix well and set aside. Preheat grill; and brush grill with a little olive oil. Grill fish as noted above in recipe I. Transfer to a warm platter and pour oil and lemon sauce over the fish.

There you have, friends. Now you can truly impress your neighbors and loved ones the next time you use the old grill.

Wok Cooking – Part II (Steaming)

June 4, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

A wok is a perfect tool for steaming foods. The whole idea is to cook food rapidly using hot most air. This cloud of steam evenly cooks the food without need to boil it in water or broth. It’s perfect for cooking seafood since it preserves the delicacy of the fish. In the process one uses as much water as in necessary to steam the dish and, if the water boils away during the steaming, more water can be added to the wok.

Any food can be cooked by steaming, be it meat, sliced or in big chunks, or vegetables, either frozen or fresh. If the food is frozen, it should be brought to room temperature otherwise condensation will result and the food will become too moist and watery. Slow steaming takes about 40 minutes to an hour. Quick steaming of cut or sliced food can take 5 to 15 minutes.

Most woks come with a steamer attachment: a small round, serrated metal stand on which you can place the food. If you don’t have one, then you can make a homemade version by piercing holes in a metal pie plate. The wok is filled with 2-3 cups of water. A small can is placed into the water and the pierced pie plate rests on the can. The food is laid on the pie plate and the wok is covered with the lid after the steam starts rising. You start steaming the food when the water reaches a fast boil. When steaming delicate foods such as fish, timing is very important. Too long a time steaming will toughen the food. It’s best to remove steamed foods a minute before they are completely cooked. That way the heat of the steamer will complete the cooking process and the food will come to table hot and perfect.

The recipe given is for steamed chicken. The chicken can be steamed as is, in water, and a sauce poured over it before serving. My recipe calls for the chicken in a marinade (makes it more flavorful that way).

BASIC STEAMED CHICKEN

12 ounce chicken (with bone and skin), cut into approximately 1-inch pieces

Marinade:

2 tablespoons light or dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a bowl, mix marinade ingredients. Add chicken pieces and let marinate for 15 minutes at room temperature.
3. Arrange the pieces on a plate in a single layer and steam at medium-high for 10 minutes. Serve with boiled rice.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: A bigger (2 1/2 to 3 pound) chicken can be use. In this case, increase soy sauce to 3/4 cup, and marinate with other ingredients as given. Place chicken pieces on a plate and arrange in a heaping shape with skin side on top. Steam for 10 minutes, remove lid from wok and, using tongs or a fork, rearrange chicken pieces so that skin pieces are on bottom and other pieces on top, and steam for another 10 minutes.

Wok Cooking – Part I

May 31, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The wok is one of the oldest cooking utensils known to humankind. The Chinese have used it for centuries. Here in the West it’s gained prominence in the last generation, with more and more people applying it to their cuisine. The uses of a wok are almost limitless. It can be used as a steamer, or double broiler. It’s also good for making sauces and soups, for stewing, sauteing, smoking foods, and even baking (like egg-cake baked in a wok). But it’s most popular use is for stir-frying.

A wok is nothing more than a deeply-dished basin made of metal. Its components could be steel, aluminum, or cast-iron. These days they are even made of ceramic. I prefer the cast-iron version. Problem is, they are hard to find. You may have to go on the web or via a catalog place to get one. Once you acquire a wok, if it’s made of metal, it has to be seasoned. This ensures the wok is in prime working order. The procedure is simple enough. First, wash the wok with hot water and soap to remove the special anti-rust coating. Rinse and dry with a clean towel or paper towels. Rub the inside surface with a thick film of peanut, corn, or soybean oil. Heat the wok over low heat for about 3 to 5 minutes until the oil steams. Turn off the heat and allow the wok to cool. Wipe away excess oil with paper towels, and your wok is now ready to use. After cooking, the wok should not be washed with soap or detergent. Just rinse it with hot water and, if need be, scrub it with a plastic (not metal) pad or you can purchase special bristle scrubbing brushes sold in Chinatown or most Asian stores. Wipe wok thoroughly dry and apply a light coat of vegetable oil to keep the wok from rusting.

As to using a wok in your kitchen, in the old days woks came with a round adapter ring. You put the wok on top of the ring to balance the round surface of the wok. This made woks work well with a gas range. It did not work that well with an electric one. Today there are woks made with a flat base so that you don’t need the adapter ring. Also, the adapter ring has a tendency of leaving a burn mark on the surface of the range after constant use. That’s why I prefer using a wok without the adapter ring.

Most woks come with a spatula (wok chan) and a long spoon (siu hok), for ease of cooking. It goes without saying, you’ll also need a sharp knife or, better yet, a sharp heavy cleaver for cutting, slicing and chopping. A good chopping block is another necessity. These can be made of treated plastic or wood. There is an argument about this. Old timers still prefer the heavy wooden chopping block that can be found in stores in various sizes and shapes. Some claim the non-wooden chopping boards are best since they minimize the danger of bacteria build-up (even after cleaning with chlorine bleach). What type of cutting board or block you use? That’s something you’re going to have to decide for yourself.

Below is the easiest stir-fry recipe I know. Served over steamed rice, it makes a great vegetarian dish. But be aware that you can cook fish, meat, poultry, whatever, in a wok. Usually the ingredients are cut in such a way that all the pieces will be of uniform size; and the food which takes the longest time to cook will be put in the wok first. Another thing, most Chinese dishes call for soy sauce, of which there are two types: light and dark. Light soy sauce has more of the aroma of soybeans and is best used in soups, with white meat and cold dishes. Dark soy sauce has a stronger flavor and more sugar and is best in fried dishes and stews.

STIR-FRIED TOMATOES, ONIONS AND GREEN PEPPERS

3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 large onion cut into 1/8-inch thick slices
2 green peppers, diced into 1-inch squares
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 large tomatoes, each cut into eight wedges
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Blend the cornstarch in water.
2. Add soy sauce and mix. Have it ready beforehand. Chinese stir-frying goes very quick.
3. Preheat wok over high heat. Do not heat the oil in the wok before adding food, otherwise the food will stick to the wok.
4. Add peanut oil and heat over medium flame.
5. Add onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
6. Add peppers and garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes.
7. Stir in tomatoes. Add the cornstarch-soy mix, and stir to to thicken (about 1-2 minutes).
8. Remove from heat, and add sesame oil. The function of sesame oil is to give the food a pleasant aroma. If it is included too soon, the aroma is lost. In general, it should be added before the food is served.
Yield: 4 servings
Note: If you want a more Asian flavor, add 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger root to the vegetables while cooking; and garnish the finished dish with chopped scallions.

Mofongo

May 24, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

Mofongo, just like Mondongo, is a word of African origin. And like Mondongo, I love the word. “Mofongo,” pronounced just like it’s spelled. Mondongo, as described in a prior post, is a hearty stew. Mofongo is simply a mix of crushed green plantains with fried pork crackling, usually served with a sauce. I know, fried pork gets a bad rap now and then but, from time to time, this is a superb dish. Once you’ve taste it, you’ll be come back for more, I’m sure.

We Puerto Ricans adore mofongo. And we prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs from ours in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball which is served in a bowl. Modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish or meal on its own. By the way, the recipe given is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group).

Note that plantains these days are very easy to find. Almost every supermarket carries them. We even get them in our summer place in Vermont. They are a traditional root plant well known in the Caribbean, and are quite healthy for one. They are high in Vitamin A, potassium and fiber. They contain similar nutritional benefits as bananas. Can’t go wrong there.

MOFONGO (Plantains and Pork Crackling)

5 green plantains
1/2 pound salt pork, washed and diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Peel plantains and cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick
2. Place plantains and diced salt pork in a pot with water to cover. Let soak for 10 minutes.
3. Drain and wipe both plantains and salt pork with paper towels.
4. Place salt pork in a hot skillet or frying pan (no extra oil is necessary). Stir-fry over high heat until pieces are browned and crisp (about 5 minutes) and set aside. This is know as the chicharron or pork crackling.
5. Deep fry plantains in hot oil until golden. Drain well on paper towels.
6. Crush plantains and pork crackling together in a wooden bowl or mortar. This may have to be done in batches depending upon the size of the bowl or mortar. Set aside.
7. Crush garlic cloves, and blend in olive oil. This is best done in a mortar, if you have one, or any small bowl will do.
8. Add garlic-oil seasoning to the plantains and crackling, and mix thoroughly.
9. Scoop up a tablespoon of the mixture and shape into a ball (about 2-inches in diameter, or larger if desired). Repeat until mix is used up.
10. Serve by itself or with favorite sauce or gravy.
Yield: 12 or more mofongo balls.

The Hooker’s Special – Pasta a la Puttanesca

May 17, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Yup, you read it right. Hooker’s style pasta. And it’s no too far off the mark. During the Italian campaign of World War II, when hordes of horny GIs reach Naples, the local working girls (and by that I mean the pros) found themselves swamped with customers. Now, it takes a lot of effort to keep the brothel running under such trying conditions. The ladies need sustenance that will provide enough energy to keep them going at full tilt. So, some enterprising individual came up with this recipe that could be prepared with a minimum of effort and provide a quick supper for the girls, in-between turning tricks, or servicing the servicemen, as it were.

American soldiers are no longer crawling all over Napoli, but the dish remained, and is now claimed by almost every Italian city where the ladies of the night ply their trade. And yes, the name has remained, Pasta a la Puttanesca, “Whore’s Style Pasta.”

PASTA A LA PUTTANESCA

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, slice into rings
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 pounds plum tomatoes, chopped (can use good quality Italian canned tomatoes, if preferred)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 can (2 oz.) anchovies packed in oil, chopped fine
1/2 cup pitted black olives, halved
1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 pound fusilli or rigatoni (or other large tube-shaped pasta)
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
Freshly grated Romano, Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

1. Heat olive oil in a heavy saucepan (I prefer cast iron). Add onion and cook over medium heat until translucent. Add garlic and cook for a minute or two.
2. Add tomatoes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 5 minutes.
3. Add the anchovies along with their oil. Stir in olives, capers, oregano, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Stir to mix and simmer over medium heat for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. While sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook pasta according to package directions. Drain pasta and place in a serving bowl. Toss with remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Top with the Puttanesca sauce, sprinkle the parsley on top, and serve with the grated cheese.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Fried Rice

May 10, 2010 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Nothing speaks to us more of what we consider “Chinese” cuisine than fried rice. Problem is, it ain’t Chinese, it’s an American invention. It’s part of that overall catchphrase of what in known in the trade as “Chinese-American” cooking. Think of chop suey, egg foo young, chow mein, etc. They did not originate in China. The were invented in the good ole U.S.A (just like fortune cookies). And it all has to do with the Cantonese influence on American cooking.

Large scale immigration from Canton in southern China to the U.S. in the 1800s assured that this Americanization of Chinese cooking would take hold. The Chinese immigrants who flooded to California to work on the Pacific Railroad were constrained by the lack of authentic ingredients and vegetables that had represented their diet back home. They had to make do with what was available. Not only that, if they went into the restaurant business they had to make their dishes palatable to Western tastes. It’s amusing to think that someone from the Chinese mainland would come to this country and go in search of genuine American chop suey, chow mein, or fried rice.

Fried rice is a very easy dish to make. All you need is rice. And there’s an argument here. Some people swear that genuine fried rice should be done only with the sticky Chinese style of rice or something like Nishiki premium grade rice (I know, it’s Japanese, but some consider it of better quality). I cook fried rice with the good old long grain variety such as Carolina brand or even Uncle Ben’s. That’s what my friend Eddie Hor, of late memory, always used. This is his recipe.

It should be noted that, in some fried rice recipes, the eggs are cooked along with the rice. Eddie would cook scrambled eggs separately and then add the eggs to the rice. Also, one can use light soy sauce or dark soy sauce if you want a darker color.

You can add other ingredients to this basic recipe, and make it vegetable fried rice, or shrimp
fried rice, or whatever (you can even cook it with Spam). Be creative, let your imagination reign.

BASIC FRIED RICE

4 tablespoons peanut oil or olive oil (I prefer the olive oil)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Ground black pepper to taste
4 cups cooked rice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1-2 scallions, or as many as desired, washed and coarsely chopped

1. In a wok or frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat and add the eggs. Cook, stirring, until they are lightly scrambled, seasoning with pepper. Remove the eggs to a dish and set aside.
2. Clean out the wok or pan with paper towels. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and, when hot, add the rice. Stir fry for a few minutes over medium-high heat, using chopsticks or a wooden spoon to evenly cook the rice.
3. Stir in the soy sauce and scallions. When rice is heated through and has achieved desired color, spread the scrambled eggs over the top. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings.

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