
We are still in the thick of it, kiddies. Me and my significant other were in cool, clear Vermont. But now we’re back in the city, the Apple, or as it has been referred to as of late, the Baked Apple. It’s been a hot, cruel summer. The only thing I look forward to is the free outdoor concerts in Central Park where you can have a good outdoor picnic while sipping a light wine. One of my favorite picnic dishes (and summer food) are cold noodle salads. They are easy to prepare, and delicious. Add some cold chicken, fruit, cheese, and good bottle of bubbly, and you’re set.
Almost any kind of pasta can be used for a cold noodle salad. My favorites, however, are oriental noodles. By that, I mean Japanese udon noodles, buckwheat noodles (soba), or fresh Chinese egg noodles. Below are given two recipes. One using soba noodles, and the other, Chinese noodles. If you don’t access to these, then any pasta noodles will do (linguini, angel hair, spaghetti, bucatini, perciatelli, etc.). The first recipe calls for hot sesame oil which can be found in any Asian or Oriental store.
#1: COLD NOODLES IN SESAME SAUCE
1 pound fresh, thin Chinese egg noodles
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon hot sesame oil (if you really like your noodles very hot, then you can make it 1 teaspoon or more)
1 tablespoons regular sesame oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar or white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
6 scallions, cut into ringlets
1. Bring salted water to a boil, add noodles and cook for just 2 or 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.
2. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over noodles, tossing until well blended. Cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
#2: COLD JAPANESE NOODLES
1 pound Japanese noodles (udon or soba)
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red peppers (pepe rosso)
6 scallions, cut into ringlets
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1. Bring salted water to a boil and cook noodles about 4-5 minutes or until desired tenderness. Drain and rinse under cold running water.
2. In the same pot, heat together the sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, and red peppers. Add the noodles, and toss well until blended. Add the cilantro, cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Noodles are ubiquitous in Thai cuisine. Some say there are over 300 varieties. The most commonly used are rice noodles, which come in three varieties: sen yai (wide flat noodles), sen lek (thin flat noodles), and sen mee or sen mi, which are thin and round and are called vermicelli in the West. There are also chicken noodles (gu-tiaw gai), and pork or beef noodles (gu-tiaw rua); as well as barni, noodles made from eggs and wheat floor and usually sold fresh. If you can get these fresh noodles, you are in heaven. Another dry variety are mung bean flour noodles called wunsen. They are very thin and are known to us as cellophane noodles.
The recipe, called Chicken Lard Nah, uses wide precooked rice noodles. They do have thinner pre-sliced, precooked rice noodles, but Paul prefers cutting the wide noodles to the size he wants. The dish calls for osyter sauce, but Paul admits he didn’t get the sauce quite right so he experimented and came up with something else. In this case, sweet chili sauce, which Paul notes you can get at the local oriental grocery store for $1.89 or thereabouts. Chilies were introduced into Thailand by the Portuguese in the 16th century. And their cuisine has never been the same since. They love their chili.
The recipe is very easy and quick to make, quite tasty and healthy—except for the sweet chili sauce which has a high level of salt. But, as Pablo says, if you add it to the water in the pan, there’s no problem .
PABLO’S CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI WITH RICE NOODLES
3 tablespoons peanut oil, olive oil, or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons water
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into 1/2-inch wide strips
1 head fresh broccoli, cut into florets
6 separated strips (1 1/2-inch) precooked rice noodles
Sweet chili sauce to taste
1 medium to large ripe tomato, cut in half and then sliced into quarters
1. In a cast-iron pan or wok, add the oil and water, and mix.
2. Add chicken strips and broccoli florets. Cook for about two minutes. Cover the chicken and vegetable with the rice noodles.
3. Cook for about 5-8 minutes, stirring constantly, making sure there’s enough water to steam everything or else the noodles will stick. If necessary, add a little bit more water.
4. Add sweet chili sauce and mix well with the liquid remaining in the pan or wok.
5. Garnish with tomato.
Yield: 4 servings.
Basic Avocado Salad: Take one medium to large ripe avocado; peel, and cut into slices length-wise. Place on a serving plate, drizzle with olive oil and red-wine vinegar. Sprinkle with fresh or dried oregano, and a pinch of salt. That’s it. Serve with bread.
Cucumber Salad: In a salad bowl, place 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar. Pour over cucumbers and marinate 15-20 minutes. You can serve the cukes as is or, to liven it up more, you can stir in 1/2 cup sour cream and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.
Broccoli Salad: In a large salad bowl, combine 2 pounds fresh broccoli, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces; 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese; and 1 medium red onion, sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl combine 1 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Add to salad and toss to coat.
Veggie Salad: In a bowl, mix one head cauliflower, broken into florets; 1 head lettuce, washed and dried thoroughly; one medium red onion, sliced thin; and one cup fresh or frozen peas. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 cups mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 2 teaspoons white vinegar. Pour over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.
Green Salad: Rinse and drain well one head Bibb lettuce, 1 bunch fresh spinach, 1 bunch escarole lettuce, and 1 bunch endive. Tear into bite-sized pieces and toss in a large salad bowl. In a blender or food processor combine 1/2 cup olive oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1 teaspoon dry mustard; 1 teaspoon celery seed; and 4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled. Pour over salad greens and toss gently. If desired, you can garnish with cooked and crumbled bacon (if you can stand the idea of cooking anything).
String Bean Salad: Marinate overnight in half a cup white vinegar: one pound fresh or frozen green beans, and 1 cup black olives, with salt and pepper to taste. Next day, combine 1 cup sour cream; 1/2 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons chopped chives; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard; and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Drain beans and olives from marinade, and toss lightly with the dressing ingredients.
Three Bean Salad: In a mixing bowl, combine 1 can (16 ounces) garbanzo beans (chick peas), drained; 1 can (l6 ounces) red kidney beans, drained; 1 can (16 ounces) white Cannellini beans, drained. Add 1/2 cup prepared Italian dressing; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning; 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix together and refrigerate 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Drain and serve.
Salad Nicoise
1-2 heads Romaine or Boston lettuce, washed and drained
1 medium green pepper (pimento), slice thinly
1 red onion, sliced thinly
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
3 hard boiled eggs, quartered
12 big or jumbo pitted olives
2 cans tuna fish (in water), drained and broken into chunks
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon mustard (preferably dijon)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1. Line a large salad bowl with the lettuce leaves.
2. Arrange the green pepper, onion, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and olives, in groups on top of the lettuce. Put the tuna fish chunks in the middle.
3. In a small bowl, combine the anchovy fillets, garlic, mustard, olive oil and vinegar. Pour over the salad, cover and chill for 30 minutes.
There you have it. Some traditional, and not so traditional salad dishes. If nothing still gets you, then just make some ripe tomato sandwiches with mustard and mayo on sliced bread. My mom use to do this during the summers back in East Harlem, and we loved the suckers.
As one who has served this nation in time of conflict, and who would do it again willingly, I am concerned, as are others, of what has been referred to as this “cultural divide” between those who serve in our military, and those who have not. This nation has always cherished the ideal of the citizen-soldier. It began at our inception when a bunch of rag-tag farmers took on the British Empire at Lexington. It grew to its apotheosis when citizen-soldiers fought to both sides, North and South, during the crucible of the Civil War. It happened again in both World Wars when citizens fought under the same banner against the evil of Fascism. In the defining struggle of my generation, Vietnam, despite the protests and upheavals, it was still a citizen army that bore the brunt of the struggle. There was one cultural leveller, and that was the draft.
The draft is no longer with us, having been rescinded years ago. What we have now is an all-volunteer army. Unfortunately, this has only exacerbated the chasm between America’s military and its civilian population. In reality, what we have today is an armed force, by and large, composed of poor whites, blacks and minorities led by a predominantly white officer corps. The sons and daughters of the elite, of legislators, of the upper brackets (with, of course, some exceptions) do not have to put themselves in harms way. Those who can’t find work when the economy is good (let alone when we’re in an awful depression) or who do not have the wherewithal to go to college, or can’t get access to advancement and even good health care, they are the ones who sign up. And they serve selflessly, one long tour after another while the rest of us can’t even fathom what they are going through. Thus the military has become an arm onto itself, aloof, apart and, yes, resentful of a leadership that has no idea of what it is to face fire. C.E. Montague once stated, “War hath no fury like the noncombatant.” And it is the non-combatants, like a recent vice-president who claimed six deferments during the Vietnam war so as not to serve, who now make policy for those who must put their lives on the line.
This is not a good scenario. When a military becomes estranged from the nation is must protect, dissension and chaos will follow, as occurred with the early Roman Republic when a dysfunctional and ineffectual government succumbed to the legions who despised it. I’m not claiming this is our fate as of yet. But if this becomes a generational pattern with a growing separation between the political leaders and the military, it won’t be long before that military losses respect for the politicos. And if there is no longer any respect for distant, elite rulers, then why should the soldiers obey them?
The last President we had who served in the military (and I’m not talking about George W. Bush’s stint in the Air National Guard protecting us from the Gulf of Mexico) was Jimmy Carter, who had been a naval officer. Now, being a veteran is not a requirement for being a good Commander-in-Chief. Franklin Delano Roosevelt never served in uniform, yet he was a superb executive during World War II. But as was shown during the last Bush administration, having a cabinet of “furious non-combatants” is not necessarily a good thing. Those who have never seen battle may be too readily willing to commit us to questionable military endeavors. If the Congress at that time knew that their sons and daughters might have to serve in a dubious war, I doubt they would have been so willing in committing us to a uncertain adventure in Iraq.
My humble view (and this may trouble both my liberal and conservative friends) is that the draft should be reinstalled. Some European countries have a unique method of conscription. Everyone serves either in the military or a comparable national service for one year, with no deferments for anyone. One year, when you come out of high school is not going to ruin your life or prospects For those who like the military, they can stay in. For those who want to pursue a civilian career, they can pursue that as well. An equitable system for all. Also, and I say this with great pride, we are fortunate to be Americans; it’s only fair we should give something back, and not have one percent of the population having to bear the brunt of protecting us. Because, my friends, I despair that the way we are going, someday in our future we just may have some Caesar who may want to “save” the nation. And that would be the worst of all outcomes.

A wok is a perfect tool for steaming foods. The whole idea is to cook food rapidly using hot most air. This cloud of steam evenly cooks the food without need to boil it in water or broth. It’s perfect for cooking seafood since it preserves the delicacy of the fish. In the process one uses as much water as in necessary to steam the dish and, if the water boils away during the steaming, more water can be added to the wok.
Any food can be cooked by steaming, be it meat, sliced or in big chunks, or vegetables, either frozen or fresh. If the food is frozen, it should be brought to room temperature otherwise condensation will result and the food will become too moist and watery. Slow steaming takes about 40 minutes to an hour. Quick steaming of cut or sliced food can take 5 to 15 minutes.
Most woks come with a steamer attachment: a small round, serrated metal stand on which you can place the food. If you don’t have one, then you can make a homemade version by piercing holes in a metal pie plate. The wok is filled with 2-3 cups of water. A small can is placed into the water and the pierced pie plate rests on the can. The food is laid on the pie plate and the wok is covered with the lid after the steam starts rising. You start steaming the food when the water reaches a fast boil. When steaming delicate foods such as fish, timing is very important. Too long a time steaming will toughen the food. It’s best to remove steamed foods a minute before they are completely cooked. That way the heat of the steamer will complete the cooking process and the food will come to table hot and perfect.
The recipe given is for steamed chicken. The chicken can be steamed as is, in water, and a sauce poured over it before serving. My recipe calls for the chicken in a marinade (makes it more flavorful that way).
BASIC STEAMED CHICKEN
12 ounce chicken (with bone and skin), cut into approximately 1-inch pieces
Marinade:
2 tablespoons light or dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a bowl, mix marinade ingredients. Add chicken pieces and let marinate for 15 minutes at room temperature.
3. Arrange the pieces on a plate in a single layer and steam at medium-high for 10 minutes. Serve with boiled rice.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: A bigger (2 1/2 to 3 pound) chicken can be use. In this case, increase soy sauce to 3/4 cup, and marinate with other ingredients as given. Place chicken pieces on a plate and arrange in a heaping shape with skin side on top. Steam for 10 minutes, remove lid from wok and, using tongs or a fork, rearrange chicken pieces so that skin pieces are on bottom and other pieces on top, and steam for another 10 minutes.

The wok is one of the oldest cooking utensils known to humankind. The Chinese have used it for centuries. Here in the West it’s gained prominence in the last generation, with more and more people applying it to their cuisine. The uses of a wok are almost limitless. It can be used as a steamer, or double broiler. It’s also good for making sauces and soups, for stewing, sauteing, smoking foods, and even baking (like egg-cake baked in a wok). But it’s most popular use is for stir-frying.
A wok is nothing more than a deeply-dished basin made of metal. Its components could be steel, aluminum, or cast-iron. These days they are even made of ceramic. I prefer the cast-iron version. Problem is, they are hard to find. You may have to go on the web or via a catalog place to get one. Once you acquire a wok, if it’s made of metal, it has to be seasoned. This ensures the wok is in prime working order. The procedure is simple enough. First, wash the wok with hot water and soap to remove the special anti-rust coating. Rinse and dry with a clean towel or paper towels. Rub the inside surface with a thick film of peanut, corn, or soybean oil. Heat the wok over low heat for about 3 to 5 minutes until the oil steams. Turn off the heat and allow the wok to cool. Wipe away excess oil with paper towels, and your wok is now ready to use. After cooking, the wok should not be washed with soap or detergent. Just rinse it with hot water and, if need be, scrub it with a plastic (not metal) pad or you can purchase special bristle scrubbing brushes sold in Chinatown or most Asian stores. Wipe wok thoroughly dry and apply a light coat of vegetable oil to keep the wok from rusting.
As to using a wok in your kitchen, in the old days woks came with a round adapter ring. You put the wok on top of the ring to balance the round surface of the wok. This made woks work well with a gas range. It did not work that well with an electric one. Today there are woks made with a flat base so that you don’t need the adapter ring. Also, the adapter ring has a tendency of leaving a burn mark on the surface of the range after constant use. That’s why I prefer using a wok without the adapter ring.
Most woks come with a spatula (wok chan) and a long spoon (siu hok), for ease of cooking. It goes without saying, you’ll also need a sharp knife or, better yet, a sharp heavy cleaver for cutting, slicing and chopping. A good chopping block is another necessity. These can be made of treated plastic or wood. There is an argument about this. Old timers still prefer the heavy wooden chopping block that can be found in stores in various sizes and shapes. Some claim the non-wooden chopping boards are best since they minimize the danger of bacteria build-up (even after cleaning with chlorine bleach). What type of cutting board or block you use? That’s something you’re going to have to decide for yourself.
Below is the easiest stir-fry recipe I know. Served over steamed rice, it makes a great vegetarian dish. But be aware that you can cook fish, meat, poultry, whatever, in a wok. Usually the ingredients are cut in such a way that all the pieces will be of uniform size; and the food which takes the longest time to cook will be put in the wok first. Another thing, most Chinese dishes call for soy sauce, of which there are two types: light and dark. Light soy sauce has more of the aroma of soybeans and is best used in soups, with white meat and cold dishes. Dark soy sauce has a stronger flavor and more sugar and is best in fried dishes and stews.
STIR-FRIED TOMATOES, ONIONS AND GREEN PEPPERS
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 large onion cut into 1/8-inch thick slices
2 green peppers, diced into 1-inch squares
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 large tomatoes, each cut into eight wedges
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1. Blend the cornstarch in water.
2. Add soy sauce and mix. Have it ready beforehand. Chinese stir-frying goes very quick.
3. Preheat wok over high heat. Do not heat the oil in the wok before adding food, otherwise the food will stick to the wok.
4. Add peanut oil and heat over medium flame.
5. Add onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
6. Add peppers and garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes.
7. Stir in tomatoes. Add the cornstarch-soy mix, and stir to to thicken (about 1-2 minutes).
8. Remove from heat, and add sesame oil. The function of sesame oil is to give the food a pleasant aroma. If it is included too soon, the aroma is lost. In general, it should be added before the food is served.
Yield: 4 servings
Note: If you want a more Asian flavor, add 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger root to the vegetables while cooking; and garnish the finished dish with chopped scallions.
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