Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 81 of 86)

Hangover Cures for the New Year

“My brain is melting into my feet.”

—Mel Brooks

It’s that time of year again, kiddies. New Year’s is just around the corner; and you know what that means: the perpetual New Year’s eve hangover. Yes, New Year’s revels have been with us since the beginning, and so have hangovers cures. The ancient Romans recommended eating deep fried canaries as a sure-fire cure. The ancient Libyans quaffed a mixture of sea-water and wine. The ancient Greeks recommended eating sheep’s lungs. The ancient Chinese swore that eating horse’s brains was the cure. In the 1800s in the U.S. it was thought that soaking your feet in mustard would do it. Among our Irish brethren it was thought that burying the person up to the neck in moist river sand would generate a cure.

Today in Mexico the national cure is menudo, a broth made of boiled tripe. In Haiti, it’s sticking 13 black-headed pins in the cork of the bottle you drank from that will deliver you from the hangover. In Puerto Rico, at one time, it was said that rubbing a lemon under your drinking arm would be the cure. In Poland, it is still recommended that drinking pickle juice is a good remedy (I would think twice about that one). A more modern cure among scuba divers is taking a blast from an oxygen tank. Some say a steam sauna is the best way to get rid of a hangover. But what if you don’t have access to a sauna?

My experience with hangovers comes from my wild and misspent youth when I was known for more than my share of imbibing. The following remedies are what I consider to be tried and true options, as far as the primordial hangover is concerned.

1. Drink plenty of fluids. Booze dehydrates you. Replenish your system with fruit juices and water. Orange juice with its vitamin C content is especially good.

2. Take a hot shower. This relaxes constricted blood vessels and tense neck muscles.

3. Avoid caffeine. It dehydrates you more. Drinking black coffee will probably make you sicker.

4. Tray good ole Alka Seltzer the next morning. Avoid aspirin, Tylenol or Ibruprofen. Aspirin is a blood thinner, and just like alcohol it can intensify the affects of a hangover. Tylenol (acetamoniphen) can adversely affect the liver. Ibuprofen can cause stomach bleeding.

5. Sweat it out. Exercise the toxins out of your system. But beware that too strenuous exercise may dehydrate you more. I do a series of breathing exercises from our Kung-Fu Wu-Su system called 8 silk weaving. This is marvelous for easing a hangover.

6. Pop some vitamins. B vitamins (especially B6) help the body metabolize alcohol. B vitamin supplements also provide a boost of energy. Vitamin C helps detoxify the body naturally, reducing the affects of the poisons in your system.

7. Ginkgo Biloba (ginkgo seeds) is considered a good herbal remedy since ginkgo contains an enzyme that speed up the body’s metabolism of alcohol.

8. Drink skullcap tea made from an herb (skullcap) that eases withdrawal from the alcohol. It can be found in capsule or tablets in health food stores. I like skullcap tea sweetened with pure, raw organic honey. Believe me, you’ll feel better in an hour or so.

9. Another good tea drink is peppermint. The mint contains antioxidants which is a natural stomach soothener and digestive aid.

10. Ginseng tea or ginseng root (steeped in hot water) soothes the stomach and helps with stomach troubles (endemic to hangovers). I prefer Korean Panax ginseng tea (which contains fructose).

11. Which leads us to the next cure, fructose (or fruit sugar), which speeds the body’s metabolism of alcohol by 25%. Or try putting some raw honey in your tea (it’s more than 40% fructose). Recall that among old time bartenders the favored hangover remedy was just honey in hot water.

If nothing works you can always try the time honored “Hair of the Dog.” That is, having a shot on booze, preferably gin or vodka. Something about the blood stream dealing with the new alcohol and thus ignoring the old alcohol, and the hangover in your system. For the record, I have never tried this, and I don’t think I ever will. And then there’s offering prayers to Saint Viviana, patron saints of drunkards and, concurrently, hangovers.

But my best hangover cure of all is simply, rest, peace, and quiet. Just sleep it off.

celebrate with COQUITO!

December 21, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In Puerto Rican households of old, the traditional drink for the Christmas holidays was coquito. In Puerto Rico, I’m told, it was also the beverage that flowed during Las Fiestas Patronales, or the the Feast of the Patron Saints. Seems every town or village had a patron saint, and what better way to pay homage than by making coquito. My folks called coquito Puerto Rican moonshine. It’s not too far off the mark. Some liken it to potent eggnog; and it can be made very potent or mild depending on how much rum you put in it.

In our family we still make coquito in the traditional manner. In my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group), the family recipe is given, and it calls for ripe coconuts which are cracked open, and using both the coconut milk and the coconut skin to make the coquito. It is a great recipe, and it makes the finest coquito on earth. But, it’s time consuming. I’ve modified the recipe using cream of coconut or coconut milk (readily available in most supermarkets) and there is no need to go buy coconuts and grate and pour and strain. If you want the traditional way of doing it, buy the book. Otherwise, just follow the steps given below. It produces a pretty good version.

An additional note: whichever way one makes coquito, my mother insists that only 151 proof dark rum should be used. Anything else is sacrilege.

COQUITO

3 cups cream of coconut or coconut milk (called coconut juice in some circles)
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 5-ounce can evaporated milk
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 egg yolks, ligthtly beaten
3 cups 151 proof dark rum

1. In a large bowl, combine coconut cream or coconut milk, condensed milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, egg yolks and rum. Pour in a blender or food processor and blend 10-20 seconds. If using a blender, this may be done in portions.
2. Pour into 1 liter or 1 quart containers (soda or wine bottles are fine), cap tightly and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3. Serve in glasses with a sprinkling of nutmeg or cinnamon.
Yield: 14 servings or more, depending if you serve in a shot glass, pony glass, or wine glass.

Jewish Comfort Food – Matzo Brei

December 17, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

As our Jewish brethren head toward the eighth day of Chanukah, I keep thinking of my favorite Jewish comfort foods. I’ve already posted on potato latkes, the traditional dish during the Festival of Lights, and kasha varnishkes, which we in the Rivera family love to eat. My other favorite is matzo brei. Traditionally you enjoy this during Passover. However, we make it all the time. It’s my wife’s favorite pick-me-up. Easy, quick, and scrumptious.

In my version of matzo brei, I add onion to it (which is not traditional as far as I know, but it does enhance the flavor). Matzo brei can be prepared two ways: either scrambled (which I prefer), or as a whole frittata-like omelet. It is served with sugar sprinkled over it or jelly.

MATZO BREI

4 matzos

4 large eggs, beaten

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1 medium onion, thinly sliced in rounds

3-5 tablespoons olive oil or margarine

1. Break matzos into small pieces, and place in a bowl.

2. Cover with hot water for about a minute or two. Then gently squeeze out the water.

3. Add eggs, salt, pepper, and onion. Mix well with a fork.

4. Heat oil or margarine in a heavy 10-to-12-inch skillet or frying pan. Add matzo mixture and fry over medium heat, stirring constantly until eggs are scrambled and matzo begins to crisp, about 3 minutes. Or you can brown the entire matzo mixture on one side. Then turn over with a spatula and brown on the other side (figure about 4-5 minutes per side).

Yield: 4 servings.

How About Some Kasha Varnishkes?

December 12, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

In the last post I included a recipe for latkes, a traditional dish served during Chanukah, to honor the Festival of Lights. Traditionally, my Jewish friends serve latkes with beef brisket. However, it has been my experience and preference that a great dish to serve with brisket is none other than that usual standby, kasha varnishkes.

Kasha is boiled or baked buckwheat. Actually, buckwheat that has been hulled and crushed. It is a side dish (think of rice or pasta) popular in Eastern Europe. It is traditional comfort food. I love kasha varnishkes, by itself, or as an accompaniment to a main meal. And I prefer that popularly known brand, Wolff’s Kasha. So, without further ado, here is my version of kasha varnishkes.

KASHA VARNISHKES

1 cup kasha (medium grain)
1 large egg (or egg white, if preferred), slightly beaten
1/4 cup margarine or olive oil (being Latino, I prefer the latter)
1 large onion, thinly sliced in rounds
2 cups chicken broth or bouillon
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1 cup bow-tie noodles
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. In a small bowl, combine the egg and kasha. Using a wooden spoon or fork, mix well, making sure all the kasha kernels are coated with the egg.
2. Heat oil or margarine in a heavy skillet or frypan, and saute onions until translucent.
3. Stir in kasha mixture, and cook for a couple of minutes. Add broth or bouillon, salt, pepper, and oregano. Bring to a boil, cover tightly and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring a medium-to-large pot of water to a boil. Cook the bow-tie noodles according to package directions. Drain.
5. When kasha is done, stir in cooked noodles. Put skillet or frypan in the broiler and brown under broiler flame (1-2 minutes).
6. Remove from boiler, sprinkle with parsley, and serve with gravy or as is.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: You can also convert this dish into kasha pilaf by omitting the noodles, and sauteing 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms along with the onions. Or you can add 3/4 canned chickpeas, drained, to the broth or bouillon. This is the fancier way of cooking kasha.

Latkes for Chanukah – Puerto Rican Style

December 7, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

One of my favorite Jewish holidays is Chanukah (also known as Hanukkah). It is a time when family and friends come together to commemorate the holiday by lighting a candle on a menorah for each of the eight days of the celebration. Chanukah means “dedication,” and it notes the rededication of the Holy Temple at Jerusalem by Judah Maccabee and his followers in 165 B.C.E. after its desecration by the forces of the Hellenistic King of Syria, Antiochus IV. This character invaded Judea, outlawed the Jewish religion and ordered an alter be erected to the pagan god Zeus, and pigs sacrificed on the alter.

Once the Maccabees ousted the invaders, they discovered there was only enough purified oil for one day. Miraculously, the oil lasted eight days; enough time for more oil to be purified. My father of late memory use to razz his Jewish friends by asking if the Jewish liberators used Goya or Progresso olive oil. That would get a laugh all around. Anyway, in America and Europe, the traditional dish served on Chanukah is latkes, basically, potato fritters. I love latkes, and I have my own variation on it. Call it the Puerto Rican way of doing things. I’ve discovered that if you add some grated carrots to the recipe, it enhances the flavor.

Another note: Judah Maccabee was also known as Yehuda HaMakabi (“Judah the Hammer”). I reckon that today he would have made a good linebacker.

POTATO LATKES (RIVERA FAMILY STYLE)

3 large potatoes

1 small onion, chopped fine

3 eggs

1/4 cup grated carrots

2 tablespoons matzo meal

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/4 teaspoon oregano

2 tablespoons parsley, chopped

Oil for frying (I use a combination of vegetable oil and olive oil, 1/2 cup or more)

1. Peel the potatoes and grate them into a bowl. You can do it by hand (the traditional method) or by using a food processor. Squeeze out the extra liquid into the sink.

2. Add onion, eggs, carrots, matzo meal, salt, pepper, oregano and parsley. Mix well.

3. In a large heavy skillet (I prefer cast-iron), heat the oil. Using a tablespoon, carefully drop the potato mixture into the hot oil and fry until browned on both sides, turning only once (about 3 minutes per side). Some people prefer to flatten each latkes with a spoon. Use whatever method you desire. The latkes should not only be golden brown but also crispy.

4. Drain on paper towels and serve with applesauce, sour cream or preserves.

Yield: about 2 dozen or more latkes.

The Magic of Mofongo

December 3, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Mofongo. I love the word. Pronounced just like it’s spelled. Undoubtedly of African origin. Basic Puerto Rican mofongo a mixture of crushed plantains and fried pork crackling shaped into balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball served in a bowl. Modern variations have the mofongo stuffed with beef, poultry, or seafood, especially lobster. It is delicious as an appetizer, side dish, or a meal on its own. And, yes, the recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group).

MOFONGO (PLANTAINS AND PORK CRACKLING)

5 green plantains
1/2 pound salted pork, washed and diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Peel Plantains and cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick.
2. Place plantains and diced salted pork in a pot with water to cover. Let soak for 10 minutes.
3. Drain and wipe dry both plantains and salted pork.
4. Place salted pork in a hot skillet or frying pan (no extra oil is necessary). Stir-fry over high heat until pieces are browned and crisp (about 5 minutes) and put aside. This is known as the chicharron or pork crackling.
5. Heat vegetable oil in the same skillet and deep-fry plantains until golden. Drain well on paper towels.
6. Crush plantains and pork crackling together in a mortar. This may have to be done in batches depending on size of mortar. Place in a bowl and set aside.
7. Crush garlic cloves in the mortar. Blend in the olive oil.
8. Add garlic-oil seasoning to the plantains and crackling, and mix thoroughly.
9. Scoop up a tablespoon of the mixture and shape into a ball (about 2-inches in diameter, or larger if desired). Repeat until mix is used up.
10. Serve by itself or with your favorite sauce, or gravy.
Yield: 12 or more mofongo balls.

Turkey Leftovers – The Day After

November 29, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Two days since Thanksgiving and we’re still scarfing down the remains of that 15, 20, or 30 pounder. So what do we today? It’s a challenge, trying to come up with something delicious and different with all that leftover meat. Turkey sandwiches on mayo will just get you so far. So, below, are various ways to utilize leftover turkey. One would be surprise how versatile turkey can be. These recipes go on the basis of 2 cups or more of turkey meant for 4 people. Of course, they can be modified for more helpings.

Turkey Curry: saute leftover meat (either strips or cut up) in olive oil or butter. Add 1 cup chicken or beef broth plus 1 tablespoon curry powder (or to taste). Cook until heated. If you desire a thicker sauce, you can mix the curry powder with flour for thickness, add cold water and blend. Stir into the meat mixture and cook until thicken.

Creamed Turkey: Saute one medium onion in oil, add turkey meat, 1 can cream of chicken soup (can also use cream of broccoli or asparagus). Gradually stir in 1 cup milk. Cook for a few minutes, add juice of 1 lemon and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan, mozzarella or cheddar cheese. If you don’t want it to be too cheesy, then add 1 10-ounce pack frozen green beans or peas. Heat until tender. Serve over biscuits, rice or pasta.

Scalloped Turkey: Alternate layers of turkey, cut up, 2 1/2 cups rich gravy, and 1 cup bread or cracker crumbs, in a greased 1 1/2-quart casserole; dot with butter. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes.

Turkey Croquettes: Combine 1 cup thick white sauce, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, turkey meat, and any other spices to taste. Spread on a plate and chill. Shape 1 rounded tablespoon of mixture for each croquette. Roll in bread crumbs, then 1 beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry in hot oil. Or you can brush with olive oil or butter and bake at 400 degrees until done.

Turkey Creole: In a skillet or pan, saute 1 large chopped onion, 1 small chopped green pepper (pimento) in butter or olive oil. Add 1 cup or 1 can tomatoes (drained), 1 can tomato soup, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and a dash of pepper. Bring to a boil. Then simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Serve over rice or couscous.

Florentine Turkey: Cook 1 pound fresh or 1 10-ounce package frozen spinach. Drain well, and chop fine. Transfer to a 1 1/2-quart casserole. Preheat broiler. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan. Add 3 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper to taste, dried oregano to taste, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Gradually add 1 1/2 cups milk, stirring constantly until mixture thickens and comes to a boil. Add 1/2 cup light cream and diced turkey meat. Stir together and pour cream mixture over spinach. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and dot with butter. Broil until lightly browned.

Turkey Tetrazzini: Saute 1 small chopped onion, 1 small green pepper, and 1 clove garlic, finely minced, in butter or olive oil. Add diced turkey and 1 can cream of mushroom soup. Season to taste, stir and cook until heated. If sauce is too thick, can add 1/4 cup water, if desired. Serve over hot cooked noodles.

Sukiyaki: In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup soy sauce, 1/2 cup beef or chicken broth, 1/4 cup beer, 1 teaspoon sugar, and pepper to taste. Heat 3 tablespoons peanut in a medium skillet and brown turkey meat, cut into fine strips. Keep meat to one side of pan. Pour half of soy sauce mixture over meat. Add 2 cups sliced onions, 1 cup sliced bamboo shoots and 1 cup sliced mushrooms. Saute for 3 minutes. Pour remaining soy sauce mixture into skillet; add 1 cup sliced scallions. Cook for 3 minutes. Serve over cooked, hot rice.

Turkey Stroganoff: Mix together 2 tablespoons flour, salt and pepper to taste. Fry one large chopped onion and 1 clove garlic, finely minced, in 2 1/2 tablespoons butter. Add turkey meat cut into strips. Sprinkle flour mixture over meat and browned onions. Add 1/4 cup beef stock, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce and 1 cup sour cream. Mix well and cook until heated. Fry 1 cup mushrooms in butter and add to mixture. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve over fettuccine noodles.

Turkey Stir Fry: Combine 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 3/4 cup chicken broth, 2 tablespoons cornstarch, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. In a wok or skillet, heat 3 tablespoons peanut oil, and stir fry 1 medium chopped onion and 1 clove garlic, finely minced. Add turkey meat, cut into strips, and stir-fry 2-3 minutes. Add soy sauce mixture and 1/4 cup chopped scallions. Cook until thicken, and serve over rice.

There you have it, leftover heaven. If this doesn’t make work for you, then next year serve ham or pork loin for Thanksgiving.

The Puerto Rican Thanksgiving Turkey

November 21, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Yes, it’s that time of year again. My favorite holiday: Thanksgiving. Leave it to the American consciousness to create a holiday devoted to feasting and gluttony. I love it. We Puerto Ricans have our own version of the cooked bird. It’s more highly seasoned than its North American counterpart and, in my humble opinion, more flavorful. You see, back in the days of yore, in Puerto Rico, the main staple for the holidays was pernil, or roasted pork shoulder. For health and other reasons, turkey has supplanted the pernil. But, guess what—we spice up the turkey to taste like pork, or a la criolla (creole style). So, here it is, the Puerto Rican Thanksgiving turkey which we normally serve with yellow rice and pigeon peas (gandules). The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (The Perseus Books Group).

PAVO RELLENO A LA CRIOLLA

(Stuffed Roast Turkey)

1 81/2 pound pound dressed-weight turkey

5 cloves garlic, peeled

6 whole black peppercorns

1 tablespoon dried oregano

4 teaspoon salt

1 cup olive oil

4 tablespoons paprika

1/4 cup vinegar

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 pound lean ground beef

1 packet sazon accent (Goya makes a good one with coriander and annato)

1/2 cup stuffed pimento stuffed Spanish olives

4 tablespoons capers, drained

1/2 cup tomato sauce

1. Rinse and wash turkey, inside and out, and wipe dry. Do the same with the heart, liver and gizzard, and then chop innards coarsely. This will be combined with the ground beef when preparing the stuffing.

2. Pound together the garlic, peppercorns, oregano and 3 teaspoons of salt in a mortar. Add 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons paprika, vinegar, and combine. Rub the turkey with the seasoning inside and out—what my mother calls “abodar el pavo” (seasoning the beast). This is done a day ahead (the turkey should be left overnight, in a covered pot, in the refrigerator). This will allow it to absorb the flavors.

3. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or kettle. Add the ground beef and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the meat loses its color. Reduce heat to medium low and stir in the sazon, olives, capers, tomato sauce and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, to complete the stuffing.

4. Remove from heat and let cool. Stuff the turkey loosely about three quarters full. Truss the turkey (sew or skewer together the neck and bind the legs).

5. Place turkey in a roasting pan breast side down. To insure a golden brown exterior combine the remaining 2 tablespoons paprika with the remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the entire turkey with this mixture and roast in a slow to moderate over (325 degrees F.) for 3 1/2 hours. To brown bird, raise temperature to 350 degrees during the last 25 minutes of cooking. This is an excellent way of cooking if in doubt as to tenderness of turkey. Some people prefer covering the turkey with aluminum foil while roasting, and removing this during last 20-30 minutes of cooking time to brown the skin. I find that frequent basting during cooking gets the same result.

Baking theories abound. There is the old traditionalist view that allows 1 1/2 hours for the first pound and then 25 minutes per pound up to 7 pounds and 20 minutes per pound after that. Thus, a 5 pound bird would take 3 hours and 20 minutes, a 7 pounder would take 4 hours and 10 minutes, and a 10 pounder 5 hours and 10 minutes. But in my view, there’s no set rule. Some birds take more time to roast, some less. In the Rivera family we go by general common sense: figure a 7 to 8 pounder takes 3 1/2 to 4 hours to cook; a 10 pounder maybe 4 1/2 hrs., and a 12 pound turkey maybe 5-5 1/2 hours. Rule of thumb: turkey is done when drumstick and thigh move easily.

6. For gravy: remove turkey from roasting pan and keep warm. Drain drippings from roasting pan into a sauce pan. Skim off the fat but retain 1/4 cup of the drippings. Add 2 cups water or 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 1/2 cups water to pan drippings. Bring to a boil over high heat while stirring in the 1/4 cup fat. Lower heat and thicken slightly with a little cornstarch and water combined. If you want to reduce the grease content, mix 3 teaspoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water. Add this to the strained pan drippings and heat, thereby omitting the reaming fat content.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Mulsum – The Great Aperitif of Olden Times

November 16, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

As noted in an earlier blog, I have always been fascinated by ancient Roman cooking. My second cookbook, The Pharaoh’s Feast (Thunder’s Mouth Press) has a whole chapter on this. Roman meals, especially at the time of the Empire, were sumptuous productions for the upper classes. They were ostentatious and sometimes downright weird. Imagine eating dormice, sow’s womb, and peacock’s brain in a sauce. Admittedly, not something for everyone

Yet, in a Roman banquet (and some of the dishes were quite sophisticated), each meal began with a sweet aperitif, mulsum, a mix of wine and honey. Then the successive courses were served and here, early in the dinner, the guests ate without drinking. Then they drank without eating. Wisely, the Romans, like the ancient Greeks before them, normally drank their wine mixed with water.

An ancient gourmand, Apicius, who lived in the time of Emperor Nero, wrote a tome, On Cookery, or De Re Coquinaria. In it he has a recipe for spiced honey wine that calls for peppercorns, mastic (a sort of resin), bay leaf, saffron, and dates. Trying to emulate this recipe would be a daunting undertaking. I prefer to make the mulsum by simply combining the honey and the wine. The recipe follows below; and note that it is best to use pure, unprocessed raw honey, the type sold in health food stores.

MULSUM

1/2 cup honey

1 bottle medium-dry red wine

1. Heat the honey in a small saucepan. Do not boil. Remove from the honey and let it cool.

2. Mix the wine and honey in a ceramic jar or pitcher and serve at cool room temperature. the wine and honey can also be mixed in a bowl and served in a decanter.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

The Alimighty Egg Cream

November 12, 2009 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I recall the first time I was down south, and it was when I was in the military, fresh out of boot camp. I stopped by a local soda fountain store in some God-forsaken burg somewhere and asked for an egg cream. The old cracker behind the counter gave me a weird look and said, “Pard’on?” I repeated my request. He stared at me myopically through thick lens glasses and said, “Yuh wan’ an a-i-ggh in yore cream?” I knew then I was in foreign territory, at least where egg creams are concerned.

Egg creams, in the north, and by that I mean the New York metropolitan area, are a rite of passage, a legendary elixir that defies imagination. I’ve had a love affair when egg creams since my early youth. Even in the Spanish Harlem of old, we revered egg creams. It transcended race, creed, nationality. It was, and still is to some of us, the ultimate good time drink—especially in you like chocolate.

Egg cream’s genesis is said to have begun in Brooklyn, N.Y. Yes, the same borough that gave the world Barbra Streisand, Neil Simon, Neil Young and William Bendix, gave us the egg cream, that immutable mix of cold milk (whole, not skim or partially skimmed), chocolate syrup and seltzer. Historians claims that is began in the Jewish community in the 18880s and 1900s. Yet, it does not have an egg. Some authorities state that initially, before World War II, it did contain an egg that was mixed in with whipped cream and chocolate syrup. I cannot say if this is true or not. The consensus behind this theory is that the egg was dropped from the drink because of wartime rationing.

What I do know is that in my part of the world there has been an ongoing discussion, some would say an argument, about what type of chocolate syrup to use. When I was a kid, it was divided into two camps: those who favored the traditional Fox’s U-bet Chocolate Syrup, and those who preferred Hershey’s Chocolate Syrup. In my neighborhood, there were some partisans who used Bosco as the syrup base. I have never tried it with that.

Sadly, egg creams are becoming a nostalgic entity. Back in my youth, there were neighborhood soda fountains all over, and each served egg creams. Today, they are harder to find. My favorite New York egg cream these days comes from Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop, a diner that has been on 5th Avenue and 22nd street since 1929.

At home, I still make my own egg creams. And I still use the traditional small Coca-Cola glass for it. There are many variations to making a genuine New York egg cream, as you will see below. But in all cases it is imperative that you use a long spoon to mix the chocolate and the milk in order to get a foamy white head.

Here’s a traditional recipe. Oh, yes, very important, the classic egg cream should be drunk straight from the glass. I find that I lose something if I drink it through a straw; I just don’t get the taste of the foamy cream.

TRADITIONAL EGG CREAM

1/2 cup cold milk
1 cup bottled seltzer or club soda
2 tablespoons chocolate syrup (or more to taste)

Pour the milk in the bottom of a soda glass. Then drop the chocolate down the side of the glass and gently mix it with the milk, using a long-handled spoon. Now pour the seltzer down the center of the glass and stir with the spoon to generate a thick white foamy head. Some variations argue that you should stir the mixture only after everything has been added, being careful not to disturb the foam. And some say, first add some milk, then the syrup, then more milk and the seltzer. And still others claim that it tastes better using whipped cream instead of milk. You are free to experiment to see which one suits your palate.

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