Time for salmon fillets. Haven’t had them in a while, and it’s like an itch that won’t go away. In our family, we love salmon. And normally, we like it simple, a piece of fish with a drizzle of butter and olive oil. But sometimes we pull out all the stops  and make it a banquet. I recently had that epiphany with one of my favorites, pepper encrusted salmon. To be honest, peppered salmon is not for everyone. Some folks, like my lovely wife, find the crusted pepper a bit strong. In fact, too spicy. So, I thought, why not have a sauce that could mitigate the pepper flavor; not necessary overwhelm it, but compliment it on the palette. And this was the result, Pepper Encrusted Salmon Fillets with Creamy Piccata Sauce.

A piccata sauce is one made with lemon juice, parsley and butter. It comes from the Italian “piccata,” or “larded.”It’s most popular incarnation is that popular dish, Chicken Piccata. In this recipe we add capers and sour cream to give it a refreshing tang. The beauty of this dish is that it can be served with any accompaniment. You can have it with rice, pasta, potatoes, or plain vegetables. So, treat family and friends to something special for dinner. No one will be disappointed.

Note that, for that genuine Nuyorican flavor, the recipe calls for the use of a  mortar and pestle to crush the peppercorns, garlic and salt. A mortar and pestle can be found these days in almost any store or supermarket. If you don’t have a mortar, simple place the ingredients between two sheets of waxed paper and pound  with a cleaver or heavy knife. You can cheat and use  ground pepper and garlic powder but, believe me, it won’t taste the same.

PEPPER ENCRUSTED SALMON WITH CREAMY PICCATA SAUCE

Ingredients:

4 salmon fillets or 1 pound center-cut salmon cut into four pieces
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 clove garlic, peeled
Pinch of sea salt or to taste
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 teaspoons capers, rinsed
¼  cup sour cream

Instructions:

1. Rinse salmon fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a mortar, crush well peppercorns, garlic and salt. Press peppercorn mix into  salmon, coating thoroughly. Set aside.
3.  Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the wine, and boil slightly until reduced, about 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice and capers. Cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat, stir in sour cream.
4.   Now, here, you can go two ways. You can place the the piccata sauce in a warm saucer or small bowl and set aside, then wipe the skillet clean with paper towels and use for the next step. Or,  you can heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in another skillet until the oil is hot but not smoking; add the salmon  and saute 2 minutes on each side or until it just flakes. Place the fillets in a serving platter, top with the piccata sauce and serve.
   Yield: 4 servings.

If you’ve followed my blog, you’ll know I’m a fan of serving marinated fish as an entrêe. Just follow the posts: Marinated Fish Salad (08/3815);  Fish Marinated in Garlic Oil (04/24/15); Rum Marinated Salmon (07/03/13). Thus I ‘m always on the lookout for a good recipe. And it so happens that the recipe given today is yet another way to marinate fish; and it’s probably the easiest way to do it. It is so simple: just marinate the fish in or soy sauce, olive oil and grated ginger, with an added dash of cayenne pepper thrown in. Then fry the thing.  Nothing could be less complex.

This dish calls for fish fillets like haddock, turbot, perch, cod, etc.; but you can also do it with fish steaks. That being said, we now get into controversial territory: the wine. I know, the usual format is that white wine goes with fish and red wine with meat. As I’ve noted before, this is BS. Serve the dish with whatever damn wine you like. I’ve discovered that this dish goes well with a light Chianti, like a DaVince Chianti. As long as the wine had a fruity edge, you can’t go wrong.

Since this recipe has Asian ingredients such as soy sauce and ginger, I suggest that the perfect accompaniment is brown or white steamed rice drizzled with a little olive oil. Or you can even serve it over pasta such as angel hair or linguini.  You are only limited by your imagination. So, go at it!

MARINATED FISH FILLETS

Ingredients:

1½ to 2 pounds, fish fillets
¼ cup tamari or soy sauce
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1/3 cup sliced scallions
Canola oil

Instructions:

1. Wash fish fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a small mixing bowl or cup, stir together the soy sauce, olive oil, and cayenne. Place the fillets in a large zip-lock bag, add the soy sauce mix, close bag tightly and let marinate for 20 minutes, turning once or twice during marinating process.
3. Fill a large skillet with the canola oil to a depth of ½-inch. Heat the oil over high heat until it shimmers. Add fish fillets and cook for 2 minutes per side (or 1 minute if you like it very rare). Serve with steamed rice.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

One of the easiest methods of preparing fish is by poaching. This is a technique whereby food is cooked by submerging in a liquid such as milk, stock, water or wine. It is perfect for cooking fish since it is a “moist heat” cooking method. The fish is rendered full of flavor and unbelievably tender. The recipe given below follows that pattern. I can it Nuyorican Versian since it encompasses the main ingredients inherent in Nuyorican/Puerto Rican cuisine.

In that vein, this recipe calls for achiote, which is used for coloring and flavoring of dishes, and is very popular in our culture. Achiote is made by cooking 1 tablespoon annatto seeds (found in any Latino or Asian market) in ½ cup olive oil over moderate heat for 5 minutes. The oil will turn a bright-orange red, and the longer it steeps in the oil, the darker the hue. Remove from heat. Let it cool, then strain into a glass jar or container, cover and refrigerate until ready to use.  Now, for those who don’t have the time or inclination to prepare achiote, you can make a short cut by mixing ½ teaspoon ground turmeric in 3 tablespoons olive oil. It will give you the same orange-red coloring.

For this recipe you can use any firm, white-fleshed fillets such as haddock, cod, perch, tilapia, turbot, catfish, bass, turbot or snapper. It even works with blue-fish fillets, so you can give that a try as well.  We served the fillets over risotto, and it was great! But, if you prefer, a veggie side dish and some crusty bread will do nicely, along with a chilled white wine.  Hell, with the wine, drink what you prefer. We are not purists on that realm. My mother, of late memory, would drink her favorite wine, Manischewitz Sherry, with whatever was offered. She was a true individual.

POACHED FISH – NUYORICAN VERSION

Ingredients:

3 pounds firm, white fish fillets of your choice (see above)
10-12 whole black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon fresh dill or ¼ teaspoon dried
½ teaspoon salt (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons achiote
¼ cup dry white wine
½ cup water

Instructions:

1. Rinse fillets under running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil.
3. Rub fish fillets with the seasoning. Brush with the achiote.
4. Place fish in  a heavy saucepan of fish poacher. Add white wine and water. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for about 5 minutes.
5. Carefully remove fish using a pancake turner or spatula and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

On a prior post (04/15/14) I gave a recipe on Pescado en Escabeche (Nuyorican pickled fish).  I’m always on the lookout for escabeche recipes, and this one has a slightly different twist. It’s a pickled fish recipe that uses fish fillets instead of fish steaks, which was the traditional way we did back on the block. In this recipe any white, firm fleshed fish fillets can be used, be it haddock, cod, turbot,  halibut, pollock, grouper, even sole. But the marinade is different. It contains, among other things, orange juice and dry mustard.

In my family’s escabeche, we served it with steam rice and/or plantains. The same accompaniment goes this effort.  And it also makes great sandwiches. What we liked about escabeche was that it’s  a great summer dish. You cook the fish in the morning, place it in the marinade, and then have it at dinner at room temperature. Enjoy.

PESCADO EN ESCABECHE – REDUX

Ingredients

2 pounds fish fillets (see above), cut into 2-3 inch pieces
Salt to taste
3/4 cup salad oil
1 cup all purpose flour

Dressing:
1/3 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 cloves garlic,  peeled and minced
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Garnish:
2-3 lemon slices
1/2 cup black olives
1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley

Instructions

1. Wash fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Season fish with salt. In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil. Dredge fish in flour, shaking off excess. Cook the fish 2-3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Depending on size of skillet, you may have to do this in batches. Arrange fish in a shallow serving dish.
3. For the dressing, in a small bowl combine all ingredients. Beat with a fork until well blended.
4. Pour dressing over fish, and let stand at least 1 hour before serving. Garish with lemon slices, olive,  parsley, and serve.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

I belong to a wine club, Laithwaite’s Wines. The recipe given came about because of them. In my last order, I received a Pinot Noir (Purple Owl Pinot Noir 2017). This pinot has everything I like about this grape. It has a ripe berry aroma, and a taste of fresh raspberry, with a hint of cinnamon that lingers in a long, silky finish. A perfect Pinot Noir. More intriguing was the food pairing recommendation: rosemary-citrus salmon with asparagus. Normally, the pairing for salmon is full-bodied whites, such as a White Burgundy, or Voignier, White Rioja, or even an oak-aged Chardonnay.  In my experience there are some red wines that go well with fish such a lightly chilled Barbera, Valpolicella, or Beaujolais.   But a red Pinot Noir?

I decided to give it a try. Well, the salmon matched perfectly  with the wine. Now, if you don’t have access to the Purple Owl Pinot Noir, any good pinot will do, preferably from California.  But one from the Burgundy region, or Argentina, Chile, and even South Africa will do just as well. So, defy convention, have a red wine with fish for a change. And the recipe itself ain’t that bad.

ROSEMARY-CITRUS SALMON AND ASPARAGUS

Ingredients:

1 to-2 pounds fish fillets, whole or 4 individual fillets
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons melted butter
3-4 fresh rosemary sprigs (about 3 tablespoons), chopped, or 2 teaspoons dried
Bunch (about 1 pound) green asparagus

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2.  Rinse fillet (or fillets) under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place fillet on a large sheet of aluminum foil.
3. In a small cup, combine lemon juice and butter. Pour and rub over fillets. Then sprinkle  with chopped rosemary. Place in oven and cook 15-20 minutes depending on size of fish. When it flakes easily with a fork, it’s done.
4.  Meanwhile, rinse the asparagus and pat dry. Trim the ends of the asparagus. If the spears are thick,  trim them lightly with a vegetable peeler. Place asparagus in a the top part of a steamer pan, and steam for 5 to 10 minutes depending on thickness, or until tender. If you do not have a steamer, you can use a steamer basket inside a large pot.
5.  Serve the salmon fillet (or fillets) garnished with the asparagus.
   Yield: 4 servings.

This is a relatively quick seafood dish that will wow your family or guests. Simple: fish fillets rolled up with spinach as a stuffing. The fish can be any firm-fleshed fish fillets, cod, haddock, perch, whiting, or whatever is available in the fish aisle. Still, I can hear you say, spinach? Ugh! Hey, you don’t have to be Popeye to like spinach. Here, the veritable green is seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, and garlic; and brushed with an lemon-butter sauce.  Believe me, you’re gonna love it.

The recipe can be done with fresh spinach, but I happened to have frozen organic spinach on hand and, you know what, it was easier in the preparation than the fresh stuff. You can still substitute fresh spinach if it’s on hand. We served the dish with a wild rice mix. But regular rice, or couscous, or quinoa, or even orzo pasta can work just as well.

So, whatcha waiting for? Go for it and amaze everyone at the table. You can lie and tell them it’s a complex, classical cuisine recipe that took hours to prepare just for them. Oh, yes, it goes perfect with a Riesling. I prefer the German or Alsatian Rieslings that still have a hint of sweetness. California and Australian Rieslings have a dryer flavor.

FISH AND SPINACH ROLL-UPS

Ingredients:

4 fresh fish fillets
2  10-ounce packages frozen leaf spinach
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ cup butter or margarine, softened
Juice of ½ a lemon

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Wash fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
3. Cook frozen spinach, along with garlic (following package directions), drain, and chop coarsely. Spread fillets evenly with spinach, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roll up like jellyrolls and place, seam side down, in a grease shallow baking pan (I prefer cast-iron).
4. In a small bowl, mix butter and lemon juice, and brush heavily over fish. Place in oven and bake 20-25 minutes or until fish flakes easily. Serve fish rolls on a a bed of wild rice or favorite grain.
4 servings.

We had promised a close friend a salmon dinner. So, I thought, we could just bake or broil the salmon, in this case, fillets, in butter. But, why not give it that extra oomph with a ginger-mustard sauce? This is a recipe that I came across years ago, and I can’t remember where. But it does liven up the mild, nuanced flavor of salmon without overwhelming it.

In the recipe given, fish fillets are the normal ingredient. When I did it, I used two a whole, wild  sockeye salmon fillets that weighed about a one pound each. You can go that route, or for four servings, you can use four boneless salmon fillets It depends on what’s available in your store. The recipe is unique in that the salmon is not baked or broiled, but poached in water resplendent with dill and other herbs. Then you prepare a ginger/mustard sauce, and serve it with the salmon. Nothing could simpler, or more delicious.

POACHED SALMON WITH GINGER-MUSTARD SAUCE

Ingredients:

4 boneless salmon fillets with skin (about 6 ounces each)
10 large sprigs fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
6 whole cloves
8 whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons  white vinegar
Ginger/mustard sauce (see recipe below)

Instructions:

1. Place salmon fillets in a saucepan with water to cover. Add dill, bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, and vinegar. Bring water to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes. The center of the fillets can be underdone. Some like it this way. If not, then cook 2 minutes longer.
2.  Drain and serve with the ginger-mustard sauce.
   Yield: 4 servings.

GINGER-MUSTARD SAUCE

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoon tarragon vinegar (or 2 tbsp, vinegar mixed with ¼ tsp. tarragon)
¼ cup diced canned pimentos
Ground black pepper to taste
½ cup olive oil

Instructions:

1. In a bowl, mix mustard,  ginger, shallots, garlic, vinegar, pimentos and pepper.  Blend well with a wire whisk.
2.  Add olive oil, whisking rapidly until well blended.
   Yield: ¾ cup