Mofongo, I love the word. It’s pronounced just like it’s spelled. A popular Caribbean dish but undoubtedly of African origin. Basic mofongo is simply a mixture of crushed plantains with fried pork crackling served with a sauce. In the Puerto Rican version, we prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball which is served in a bowl. More modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish, or meal on its own.
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Oswald Rivera
Author, Warrior, and Teacher
Category: all (page 51 of 77)
I do not know what salmorejo means. Neither does anyone else in my family. My Uncle Carlos surmised that it was a word native to Puerto Rico that can be roughly translated as a “salad.” Perhaps. There are many crab salmorejo recipes. In some instances, sweet chili and capers are added. Our version is simple and no nonsense. The only liberty I’ve taken is in adding a little white wine. May not be exactly criollo*, but it supplies a bit of dash.
This dish came along, like many others through experimentation and the process of experimentation doesn’t have to stop here. Fresh parsley can be substituted for the cilantro, if you want a less defined taste. Some folks prefer fresh lemon juice in place of the vinegar. Again, let your palate be your guide. Traditionally, we serve fish steaks with root plants (bianda) or boiled green bananas (guineos).
This dish came along, like many others through experimentation and the process of experimentation doesn’t have to stop here. Fresh parsley can be substituted for the cilantro, if you want a less defined taste. Some folks prefer fresh lemon juice in place of the vinegar. Again, let your palate be your guide. Traditionally, we serve fish steaks with root plants (bianda) or boiled green bananas (guineos).
Pasteles are a singular creation made from common ingredients: root plants stuffed with meat. The meat is usually pork, but it can also be chicken or turkey. At home it’s prepared only on the most special occasions. When I returned home from Vietnam this was the first dish my mother made on honor of my arrival. If you’re traditional you have to use plantain leaves to wrap the thing. If they can’t be found, then wax paper will do. Plantain leaves are abundant in Caribbean and Asian markets. These days they come frozen wrapped in bundles of 12 or more. Believe me, there is a difference between pasteles made with plantain leaves and those wrapped in wax paper.
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Pasteles are a singular creation made from common ingredients: root plants stuffed with meat. The meat is usually pork, but it can also be chicken or turkey. At home it’s prepared only on the most special occasions. When I returned home from Vietnam this was the first dish my mother made on honor of my arrival. If you’re traditional you have to use plantain leaves to wrap the thing. If they can’t be found, then wax paper will do. Plantain leaves are abundant in Caribbean and Asian markets. These days they come frozen wrapped in bundles of 12 or more. Believe me, there is a difference between pasteles made with plantain leaves and those wrapped in wax paper.
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The archetypical Puerto Rican side dish. It’s served at breakfast with eggs and ham, at lunch, or with the evening meal whatever the entrée. It’s just plantains, sliced, and deep fried. In Puerto Rican cooking, we fry the slices twice after pressing then to form the patties. In other parts of the Caribbean, notably Jamaica, the slices are deep-fried just once. They are not pounded and re-fried. I have tried tostones this way, but it just doesn’t come out the same. Those who follow our method can acquire what is called a tostonera in any Latino market. This consists of two pieces of wood or plastic that hinge over to enclose and flatten the plantain slices. Here, again, I defer to tradition. I’ve tried these newfangled contraptions and fond them wanting. Nothing beats the plantain peels and the flat of the hand for forming genuine tostones.
This recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Hachete Books). It could be considered the Puerto Rican version of Osso Buco. Only difference is that Osso Buco is braised lamb shanks. We use regular lamb shanks; then the shanks are browned and simmered. The usual first step in Osso Buco is to dust the shanks with flour and then brown. The final step is the same: slow cooking until done. Now, no one says you can’t braise the lamb in flour, as in the Italian version. My mother would cook them both ways. Just that it’s easier in the Caribbean version.
The dish is normally served with yellow rice and pigeon peas (arroz con gandules – see post of 12/01/14 for a pretty good recipe). This time around I served it with the old standby, mashed potatoes.
MUSLO CORNERO A LA CARIBE
(Lamb Shanks Caribbean Style)
4 lamb shanks (about 3 1/2 pounds)
Juice of 1 whole lemon
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tablespoons fresh chopped oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro
2 bay leaves
1, Rinse lamb shanks and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper
3. Heat olive oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add lamb shanks and brown evenly over moderate-low heat.
4. Add tomatoes sauce, onion, garlic, oregano, cilantro, and bay leaves.
5. Cover and simmer on low heat until tender (1 hour). Remove bay leaves and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.
Pancetta is a pork product very popular in Italy. In some circles it’s called Italian bacon. Along with prosciutto, it’s very common in the Italian kitchen. It is made from pork meat that is salt cured and spiced with lots of black pepper. In a the supermarket or deli it comes in a tight roll (arrotolata), or already cubed. It can even be found sliced paper thin.
If you can’t find pancetta, bacon can be substituted—but it won’t taste the same. Also, with bacon, it’s best to blanch it first in boiling water since it reduces its smoky flavor (pancetta is not a smoked product). That being said, the recipe given below can be done with almost any pasta but it’s usually served with spaghetti or linguini. Once in a while, if I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll use perciatelli, my favorite string pasta. Why? It’s thick, like a phone cable—and I love what my Uncle Phillip in pre-PC days would call a “manly pasta.”
One additional thing I must say, since we’re talking about pasta: remember in the old days when it came in one pound boxes? More and more it’s now 12 ounces. When did this crap start? Ronzoni, bless their heart, still comes in one pound boxes. Barilla does not (it’s 13.25 ounces). Everyone else, these days, is 12 ounces. Pretty soon it’ll be 9 ounces, then 8 . . . you get the idea. Someday a family of four will have to buy two boxes of spaghetti or whatever to get fed. If you’re lucky enough to find a place that sells fresh pasta, you can still get it by the pound—and even if it’s more expensive, it’s a better deal. The corporate structure (no surprise!) is out to gyp us.
I pound tomatoes (preferably plum tomatoes)
10-8 ounces pancetta or lean bacon, sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 pound fresh or dried spaghetti or linguini (if you can find a 1-pound box)
5 fresh marjoram sprigs, minced, or 1/4 teaspoon dried
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup fresh shredded basil
Freshly grated Pecorino or Romano cheese
1. Wash tomatoes under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Chop coarsely.
2. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add pancetta and stir-fry over low heat until fat is rendered.
3. Stir in onion and cook gently for 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook 2-3 minutes more.
4. Add tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered for about 10 minutes, stirring well. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package instructions.
5. Stir the marjoram into the sauce. Remove from heat. Drain the pasta into a serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss well. Sprinkle with shredded basil, and serve, passing around the Pecorino or Romano cheese.
Yield: 4 servings.
I didn’t discover this concept of ragout (pronounced “ragoo”) until my early manhood. I went to a restaurant on the west side of Manhattan and asked what is this “rag-out” thing. My friends corrected me as to the pronunciation, and we ordered the thing. Subsequently, I learned that “ragout” comes from the French verb ragoûter, which roughly translates “to stimulate the appetite.” It’s mainly a seasoned, thick stew of meat, poultry or fish which may or may not contain vegetables. To confuse you more, ragu, also derived from ragout, is a popular dish in Italy’s Bologna region and is served with pasta. It’s main ingredients are ground beef and tomatoes, with some onions, carrots and wine wine thrown in.
The dish given below is a traditional ragout made with fish fillets and mushrooms. In the recipe I use perch fillets. But you can substitute cod, haddock, turbot, or any light firm-fleshed fillets. For the mushrooms, I use the oyster variety; but you can use cremini, shiitake, chanterelle, or a mix of mushrooms. Now, some people may add cream to their ragout. I’m told by a diehard, utterly traditional chef that never may you add cream to the ragout. It is “sacrilege, sacré bleu!” I’m not fascistic in my cooking, so, if you want to add cream, or anything else you think will improve the flavor, go right ahead. The subject of good cuisine is to constantly experiment. That’s the real joy of cooking. Also, and this will drive the traditionalists nuts, this is my Latino version of the dish. Muchas gracias.
FISH FILLETS WITH MUSHROOM RAGOUT
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound oyster mushrooms, washed and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 small shallot, sliced thinly
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped dill
4 6-ounce fish fillets
Salt and black ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup hot water
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet or fry pan (I prefer cast-iron). Add mushrooms and sauté until tender, about 4-5 minutes.
2. Add garlic, shallot, and 1 tablespoon butter. Cook until garlic and shallot are softened, about 1 minute.
3. Add chicken stock, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until reduced by half and slightly viscous, about 4-5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and cook another 30 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in dill. Cover, and keep warm.
4. Wash fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, and oregano, patting seasonings into the fish.
Place fish in a roasting pan. Add water and 1 tablespoon butter. Bake until fish is tender, about 10 minutes.
5. Place fillets in a serving dish, spoon mushroom ragout over fish, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.
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