Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Category: all (page 57 of 77)

Avocado-Crabmeat Salad

Summer is upon us, and it’s salad time again. In our family, the favorite salad ingredient (apart from lettuce and tomatoes) is the avocado. A good, ripe avocado to us is a measure of heaven. And we prefer the big smooth ones rather than the small, pitted pear shape kinds. Think of Haas avocados. Nothing wrong with them, but being Nuyorican, we prefer the Caribbean variety.

In the old days, before we all became more knowledgeable of things culinary, the basic Puerto Rican salad was lettuce, tomato and avocado slices drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. Or we would have the avocado separately as a side dish in itself. Party salads and such were the province of San Juan debutante society. Today, in our household, we have a salad repertoire that is vast and various, ranging from from hot and cold to pasta and buffet salads. But we still hark back to the avocado as a mainstay. The recipe given below exemplifies that ideal. It’s Ensalada de Aguacate y Juevjes or avocado-crabmeat salad. It can be served as a meal in itself with a crusty loaf of  bread, or as a salad course. Take you pick. By the way, if you’re interested in more ingenious avocado offerings, you can always pick up my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Running Press, Perseus Books). It’s chock-full of avocado inspired salads.

ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y JUEYES

1 pound fresh lump crabmeat or 4 6-ounce cans crabmeat, drained
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1 lemon, cut in half
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
2 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 fully ripened avocados
2 medium ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into slender wedges
Extra salt for sprinkling
Parsley sprigs for garnish

1. If fresh, pick over crabmeat to remove any shell or cartilage.
2. In a bowl, combine crabmeat, mayonnaise, juice of 1/2 lemon, onion, garlic, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper. Mix lightly.
3. Cut each avocado in half, peel and remove the pit. Cut each half into 6 or 8 wedges. Squeeze remaining lemon half over the avocado to prevent discoloration.
4. Place crabmeat in the center of a serving platter. Arrange avocado and tomato wedges alternately around the crabmeat. Sprinkle wedges lightly with salt.
5. Garnish with parsley sprigs and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings. 

Cooking with Paprika

Paprika is a spice that I love. I use it often and in countless recipes. I love its flavor and color. And I discovered it has many uses, and not just as a spice. If you want to make a quick, spicy, tangy pilaf rice, add some paprika to the rice while cooking. It will impart a deep color (depending upon how much you use) and a unique taste to the rice. My experience has been that, in American cookery, you won’t find paprika used that often. And that’s sad. Because once you start experimenting with it, it will intrigue you. That being said, I find that most of the prepackage, processed American paprika sold in supermarkets is kind of mild. To my palette, pure Hungarian paprika is best. If you can’t find that, then go for Spanish paprika (pimentón), it’s just as good.

Paprika is actually a powder which is made by grinding the pods of various kinds of peppers known as capsicum annuum. The pepper varieties range from bell peppers (mild) to chili peppers (hot). And it is the fourth most consumed spice in the world. Its the national spice of Hungary (think of Hungarian goulash). There are different grades of Hungarian pepper; but the favorite variety (specially in the U.S.) is édesnemes, or “noble sweet,” which is slightly pungent and a bright red color.

Dishes which highlight this great spice include such stalwarts as deviled eggs, and the famous chicken paprikash. The dish I give below is chicken with a paprika sauce. Its tasty, innovative, and delicate. So, go out, get some chicken breasts, some paprika, and go to town. You won’t be disappointed.

CHICKEN WITH PAPRIKA SAUCE

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, about 1 1/2 pounds, halved
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium to large sweet red pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into strips about 1/4-inch wide
1 small onion, peeled and cut into thin rings
2 teaspoons paprika (more or less to taste)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
Fresh chopped parsley for garnish (about 2 tablespoons)

1. Rub  chicken breasts with pepper.
2. Heat oil in a large frying pan or skillet. Add the breasts and cook about 1 1/2 minutes. Turn and cook 1 1/2 minutes on the other side.
3. Scatter the red pepper strips and onion over the chicken. Then sprinkle with the paprika.
4. Cook over low heat, uncovered, for 4 minutes.
5. Add vinegar, chicken broth, and cream. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook an additional 8 minutes.
6. Remove to serving platter, sprinkle with parsley and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.  

Nuyorican Rack of Lamb

This is what my father, of late memory, would call a “highfalutin dish.” And I can understand that view. It seems, mention rack of lamb and you get immediate pictures of people in some fancy-dan restaurant with waiters fluttering about with a maītre d’ snapping his fingers and pointing at tables. Fact is, rack of lamb is very easy to cook. Granted, it’s a mite more expensive cut but, for that special occasion, it’s well worth it. And my version is, naturally, Nuyorican style. Yes, we do have rack of lamb, with the usual seasonings native to our cuisine (plus a dash or rum). Think of it as an island treat.

In the old days, cooking rack of lamb was a pain because you had to prepare the rack of lamb by getting a whole rack, cutting all of the surface fat from the meat and bone, removing the long chine bone, hacking off the ends of the ribs, and leaving about one and one-half inches of the ribs intact while separating the rest from the loin of meat. This was difficult and time consuming. Today you can buy a rack of lamb with bones “frenched” (as they say) with blade and chine bone removed. All you have to do is wash the lamb under cold running water, dry with paper towel, season and cook.

Rack of lamb can be prepared in one of two ways: you can cook atop the oven by searing the meat on each side, and then simmering in some liquid on low heat, or roasted in the oven. Some chefs sear and then roast. I go for the traditional roasting method: just coat with bread crumbs and seasonings, and roast to desired doneness. Nothing could be simpler. Given my Puerto Rican background, I serve the dish with pilaf or saffron rice; but you can also serve it with baked or puréed potatoes and/or broiled tomatoes. Hell, you can serve it with french fries, if you want. In my culture we don’t stand on ritual, just taste and satisfaction.

RACK OF LAMB – NUYORICAN STYLE

1 well-trimmed rack of lamb (1 to 1 1/2 pounds), bones frenched (blade and chine bones removed)
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley
3 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 tablespoon dark or white rum (dark rum gives more pronounced flavor)

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. In a bowl, combine the bread crumbs, parsley, garlic, oregano and pepper.
3. Rub the rack of lamb with butter.
4. Coat the rack of lamb with bread crumb mixture, pressing evenly over the meat on both sides.
5. Place in a baking dish large enough to hold the rack in one layer, sprinkle with the rum; and roast, meat side up, for 10 minutes.
6. Reduce temperature to 400 degrees. Roast for 15-20 minutes more. Check for doneness (around 135 degrees for medium rare). Let lamb stand 10 minutes before serving.
    Yield: 3-4 servings.

 

Empanadillas – Stuffed Meat Pies

Empanadillas are a delicacy popular in Nuyorican cooking. Basically, it’s a stuffed meat pie. Cubans have their own version of it, and they call it empanadas. We also have empanadas. But our version differs from the empanadillas in that the ingredients are traditionally wrapped in plantain leaves and then the stuffed empanada is baked in a medium oven. The most famous use of plantain leaves in our culture is in the preparation of pasteles (for a step-by-step recipe, see my video of 12/4/10). For pasteles, if plantain leaves are not available, we wrap them in waxed paper. With empanadas, you can use aluminum foil which works just as well.

Empanadillas need no plantain leaves or waxed paper. It’s a very straight forward recipe, and depending on the filling, empanadillas can be made large, medium, or small size. It’s just a matter of preference. The following recipe will make about 10 empanadillas, depending on size.

The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books, Running Press) which has gone into its 3rd printing.

EMPANADILLAS
(Stuffed Meat Pies)

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound lean ground beef
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
4 cups flour
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water mixed with 1/4 teaspoon sugar
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add beef, bell pepper, onion, garlic, salt and ground pepper. Sauté over high heat, stirring constantly, until meat loses its red color.
2. Reduce heat  to low, stir in tomato sauce and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine 3 cups flour, 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, baking soda, sugar and salted water. Sift through the hands until the flour is moistened and a soft dough is formed.
4. Roll dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently.
5. Break off a small piece of dough and flatten into a patty. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough into a circle 6-7 inches in diameter. Fill center with a tablespoon of beef filling, and fold circle in half. Using a small plate as a guide, trim off excess dough to get a perfect half moon shape. Seal edges by pressing all the way round with the tines of a fork. Repeat until ingredients are used up, dusting the surface and empanadillas with flour, as needed, to prevent sticking.
6. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden (about 3-4 minutes). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.

Cooking with Garlic Oil

In my family, we loved garlic. It’s in our DNA. My mother, my aunt, my uncles would use mounds of it when cooking. As I’ve stated before, vampires would have a hard time with us. Looking back on it now, it’s odd that we used garlic in conjunction with olive oil, but always as separate ingredients in a dish. We never combined the two as one spice. The Italian norm of dipping bread into olive oil combined with strips of garlic and using that instead of butter, never occurred to us. It wasn’t native to our cooking. When I traveled to Italy in the 1980s and discovered garlic oil, another innovation to me, and I was in heaven. I’ve used garlic oil in whatever variation ever since.

And it’s so easy to combine these two staples. You can use it in vinaigrettes, dressings, marinades, you name it. Add to that, it is the simplest thing to make.

Given below is my standard basic recipe for garlic oil, followed by a couple of quick recipes for this wonder weapon of cooking. The recipes yield 4 servings.

GARLIC OIL

Cloves from 1 head garlic, peeled and crushed
1 cup olive oil (either regular for a more piquant taste, or extra virgin for a more subtle taste)

1. In a medium pot or pan, add garlic and olive oil.
2. Cook over medium-low heat until bubbles start to form around garlic, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low simmer and cook until garlic begins to brown, about 10 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and let cool at room temperature for 45 minutes. Use as needed; and store the rest in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
MAKES 1 CUP

Recipes:

FISH MARINATED IN GARLIC OIL

In a large zip-lock plastic bag, combine 2 pounds fresh fish fillets (any fish); 1/2 cup garlic oil with cloves; 2 lemons cut into thin rounds; salt and ground back pepper to taste; and 1 teaspoon dried oregano (or 2 teaspoons fresh). Shake to coat fish, and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. 10 minutes before serving, preheat broiler. Broil fish until done. If the fillet is very thick, it may need to be turned over one time.

CHICKEN MARINATED IN GARLIC OIL

In a large zip-lock plastic bag, combine garlic oil with cloves; 2 lemons cut into thin rounds; 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley; and 1 whole chicken (3-3 1/2 pounds), washed and cut into 8-10 pieces. Shake to coat chicken, and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. Or you can refrigerate overnight for a more pronounced flavor. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place chicken with marinade in a roasting pan. Season with salt and ground black pepper to taste, and bake until skin is golden and chicken is cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes.   

Chicken with Prunes

I know, you’re saying, “Chicken with prunes—what?” Yeah, chicken with prunes. Prunes do not generally come up in American cooking. If at all, it’s in prune juice—which supposedly makes one regular. In Jewish cooking you sometimes have them as a filling for Hamantashen, a popular sweet during the festival of Purim. In the TV series, Star Trek, prune juice was the favorite drink of  Lieutenant Worf, the Klingon crew member who considered it  to be a “warrior’s drink.”

Prunes, however, are very popular in Middle Eastern cuisine. And it goes back a long way. In the Kitab al Wusla il al Habib, a medieval Arabic cookbook, there is a dish of chicken cooked with prunes. And today, in Morocco, a similar dish, Tagine with Prunes, is very popular.

I recently  had some prunes on hand and decided to give this combination a try. And it came out very tasty. Scoff all you will. Once you prepare this dish, you won’t be disappointed.

CHICKEN WITH PRUNES

1 3-pound chicken, skinned and cut into serving pieces
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into rings
1/4 teaspoon powdered saffron
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano (or 1/4 teaspoon dried)
Salt to taste
1 pound prunes, soaked overnight

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken and onion in a large pot, heavy kettle or Dutch oven.
3. Sprinkle with saffron, ginger, oregano and salt. Cover chicken with water, bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer gently, covered, until chicken is tender and the stock is reduced (20-30 minutes).
4. Add prunes and continue cooking with the pan uncovered until the prunes are soft and the sauce is considerably reduced (about 1/2 hour longer).
5. Serve the chicken covered with the sauce over steamed rice or couscous.
    Yield: 4 servings.

The Rap Against Merlot – Why?

Recently at a local wine shop, while perusing for some favorites, I came across a Merlot that was on sale. By sale, I mean, an actual SALE. Bottles were going for $4.99. I said, What? $4.99? This must be some mistake—and who would buy this stuff?  Probably it’s a Chateau East River Plonk 2015 that’s as tasteful as urine. I reasoned the owner of the store just wanted to get rid of the leftover Merlot in his cellar. After all, who drinks Merlot these days?

That is true. “Mer—lot” (as the guys back on the block once called it) has gotten a bad rap lately. And to which I must admit I had fallen victim to. In my circle, high or low, most acquaintances do not drink that much Merlot anymore. It may have to do with changing tastes, fashion, new lifestyles, whatever. It wasn’t always so. Back in the, seventies, eighties, and even into the nineties, Merlot, I recall, was a popular wine to drink. Along with Chardonnay, it was the go-to varietal most people cotton to whether at a party or a restaurant. Then, as suddenly, it fell out of favor. People (and  by that, I mean mainly Americans) began discovering Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and, most recently, Malbec. Merlot became the also-ran. “Sophisticates” began spurn it. To be honest, it didn’t help that winemakers (mainly from California), impress by the initial demand for Merlot, began flooding the market with wine of inferior quality. But the final nail in the coffin came with the release in 2004 of the movie Sideways. It it, wine snob Miles Raymond, played by Paul Giamatti, in one of the movie’s key scenes, goes into a diatribe on Merlot: “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I’m not drinking any fucking Merlot!” I have to admit, I stopped drinking Merlot after that.

Now, here I was faced by this $4.99 ogre. I said to myself, This must suck a big one if they’re selling it for five bucks. Then I noticed that it came from Chile, not California. It was a Carta Vieja 2013 Merlot from the Loncomilla Valley—which is one of central Chile’s great viticultural regions. It has some of the better vineyards around and makes great quality wines. I figured, How bad can this wine be? As I discovered later, it happens to be the second most popular wine from the Loncomilla. I decided to buy it. If nothing else, I could use it as a cooking wine. Imagine my surprise when I tasted it. The wine had flavors of plum and raspberries. It was full and balanced, and expressive on the palate with notes of vanilla and caramel. Wow! Not bad for an East River plonk.

I began to rethink my conception of Merlot. If a cheapo could be this good, imagine what a higher premium Merlot could be like?—even from California. I started out seeking various offerings. And  again, was pleasantly surprise at Merlot’s pedigree. I began with Chile again, with the Los Rosales Chapel Vineyard Reserve 2010 Merlot from one of the oldest estates in Chile. A fabulous wine, silky and smooth with a spicy aroma and fruit-filled finish. Then on to the Patriots 2009 Merlot from Chile’s Maipo Valley, floral with fruit aromas and a velvety taste that goes great with a juicy steak. Then on to California with a Pinegrove 2010 Merlot from Sonoma: aromas of plum and dark cherries and flavors of fine fruit, cinnamon and vanilla. Also from the same county, Sonoma Vineyards 2010 Merlot: full-bodied, smooth, strong and rich. I also discovered that Washington State has great Merlot’s—like the Bergevin Lane Entwined 2011 offering: rich with ripe cherry and plum flavors, and lots of oak which gives it a floral spice. Finally, from Argentina (where Malbec is king), the Schroeder Estate 2012 from the Patagonia region. It’s smooth and easy on the tongue with aromas of anise and fresh mint. The taste, as with any great Merlot, is soft and silky with hints of dark berry. It is considered one of the top two or three Merlots from anywhere in the world.

Listen, I’m not asking to go out and buy top of the line stuff. It’s not needed. A good, reputable wine merchant will guide you to a moderately priced Merlot that will make you rethink your view of this choice wine. Forget about the “sophisticates” with their noses in the air. Give Merlot another try. Who knows, you might be lucky enough to come across a $4.99 bargain and your world may change yet again.

Salud! 

Black Sea Cucumber – Odessa Style

Once in a while I get a hankering for a vegetarian meal. Then I usually stir-fry greens: broccoli, spinach, green beans—the usual suspects. I add onion and garlic, and my favorite Nuyorican spices: oregano, pepper, recao, etc. and serve it over rice or some such grain. Recently, I deviated from my norm. I whipped up Black Sea Cucumbers, Odessa Style. I acquired this recipe years ago—and I can’t recall from where. I’ve never been to the Black Sea region, or Odessa, which is in the Ukraine. I have no conception of their cuisine, but the recipe is termed “Odessa” style. Thus I assume it is a Ukrainian or Russian variant. Now, there is something known as the Black Sea Cucumber, or Lollyfish, which is a species of marine invertebrate. But this has no relation whatsoever to the vegetable cucumber. So, how this dish, which uses average cucumbers, came to be called Black Sea Cucumber – Odessa Style, I have no idea. If somebody out there knows the origins of this dish, let me know.

The recipe is fairly easy to prepare. And it can be served as an appetizer. But, as noted, I serve over it rice, couscous, or pasta. It makes a great veggie meal. If you want to follow in the Odessa vein, forgo the wine and serve it with a good chilled vodka. Make believe you’re one of the Romanovs, vacationing in the Black Sea and dining on this dish—before the Revolution, of course.

BLACK SEA CUCUMBER – ODESSA STYLE

8 average cucumbers
1 large onion, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup mushrooms, washed and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 1/2 cups beef broth or stock
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
Salt to taste (preferably sea salt)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon caraway seed (optional)

1. Peel and slice the cucumbers. Place them in a pan or pot with cold, salted water to cover. Let stand 1 hour to firm them up.
2. In a large pan or skillet, heat the butter. Add the onion, mushrooms and garlic, and saute until the vegetables are lightly browned.
3. Drain cucumbers and add them to the onion pan.
4. In a medium bowl, combine the beef broth, tablespoon butter and flour; and thicken slightly, working into a smooth roux. Add to the pan, and simmer over low heat until the cucumbers are tender (about 4-5 minutes).
5. Season with salt and cayenne; and add the sour cream. Increase heat and bring gently to a boil. Add a sprinkling of caraway seed, if desired, and serve.
    Yield: 6 servings.  

Nuyorican Shrimp with Garlic

In my family, back on the block, when we had shrimp, it was cooked either of two way: Camarones con Cebolla (shrimp with onion) or Camarones con Ajo (shrimp with garlic). Of these two dishes, my favorite was camarones con ajo. I love garlic. So did my father. Vampires would have a hard time getting close to us. And whatever leftover shrimp there was, we would have the next day in sandwiches.

I’ve discovered that in Spain, shrimp in garlic sauce is a popular dish in Galicia. That was probably the origin of our Puerto Rican shrimp dish—which became Nuyorican when the family got to new York. In our version we always added a hot pickled pepper, either red or green. And we usually bought the Goya brand which came in 6-ounce jars. The peppers were pickled in vinegar and we would sprinkle the vinegar on any dish to add a bit more spice. My mother thought we were nuts, but my father and I loved the added kick.

This recipe is fairly simple to make. It’s a quick, no fuss deal. Naturally, in my family, we served it over steamed rice; but any grain will do, even couscous or pasta. I’ve even served it over kasha (buckwheat groats)—though my Jewish friends would think this strange since kasha is a staple of Eastern European cuisine. But then, as my father would say, “I’m Puerto Rican, I don’t have to make sense.”

CAMARONES CON AJO
   (Shrimp with Garlic)

2 pounds medium-to-large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 hot pepper (red or green), either pickled (as noted above) or dried, whole
2 tablespoon dry white wine or chicken broth
Minced parsley for garnish

1. Warm the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and pepper.
2. When the garlic begins to color, raise the heat to medium high and add the shrimp. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side, turning once, or until the shrimp are pink.
3. Add the wine or chicken broth, remove the pepper, garnish with parsley and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Red Snapper Meunière

I’m always on the lookout for easy ways to cook fish, especially fish fillets And one the most convenient, economical ways is what is called “Meunière” style. This is a classic method where the fish is dusted with flour, then sauteed in butter until crisp and golden. The whole thing is finished with brown butter, a sprinkle of parsley, and garnished with lemon. “Meunière” translates as “miller’s wife.”  Presumable, in the old days, a miller’s wife would dredge the fish in flour before cooking it. This type of cooking usually applies to mild flavored fish such as halibut and sole. But it also works with any lean fish such as cod, haddock, and tilapia.

Recently I tried this dish with a more firm flavored fish, red snapper. And it came out pretty good. If figures since one can cook a whole fish, normally trout, and you get that famous combination: trout meunière. Red snapper has a more pronounced flavor, and it goes will with the flour and brown butter. Served with boiled potatoes and/or grilled tomatoes, and you got a winner.

RED SNAPPER MEUNIÈRE

4 red snapper fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup olive oil, vegetable or peanut oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
6 thin slices lemon, for garnish
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Rinse the fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano, and garlic powder.
3. Place fish in a dish large enough to hold in one layer. Pour milk over fillets.
4. Dredge fillets on both sides with the flour. Shake off any excess.
5. Heat oil in a large skillet and add the fillets. Brown nicely on medium-low heat on one side about five minutes and turn. Continue cooking until fish is cooked through (about 5-8 minutes).
6. Transfer the fillets to a serving dish, and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Garnish with the lemon slices.
7. Quickly wipe the skillet clean with paper towels. Add the butter and cook, swirling it around, until it has a hazelnut brown color (what is known as a beurre noisette). Pour this over the fish. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

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