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Persian Meat Loaf

November 13, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Meat Loaf in Persia? Yes, Persian culinary history has a form of meatloaf. They call it Kofta Bil Sania. It actually translates to something like “Ground Meat Loaf in a Tray.” Now, in the Rivera clan, we’re meatloaf fanatics. My mother made the best meatloaf ever. She made it Puerto Rican style. It wasn’t anything like the Quaker Oats recipe in the back of the box. Her meat loaf (or butifarrón, as she called it) had crushed peppercorns, lots of garlic, onions, green bell peppers sweet chili peppers (aji dulce), plus the usual eggs, tomato sauce and cracker crumbs. It was heavenly.

Still, I’m always on the lookout for some good recipe of this famed dish, if only to compare it to my mom’s masterpiece. When I came across this Persian recipe, I was intrigued. It contained spices I didn’t usually associate with meatloaf: such things as cinnamon, allspice, cumin. A totally different flavor concept. I’m told this recipe is still very popular in modern day Iraq and other point in the Middle East. I would say this recipe predates the American version of meatloaf probably by centuries. Persian cuisine has a colorful and storied history. During the Middle Ages, when western man was dining on rancid mutton and stale ale, the Persian Caliphate was enjoying exotic fruits from Central Asia, cooking with spices from India and China and using such ingredients as truffles and rosewater in their cooking. Kofta Bil Sania harks back to that time.

PERSIAN MEAT LOAF
(Kofta Bil Sania)

1 pounds ground lamb (can substitute beef, veal, chicken or turkey, if desired)
1 medium onion, peeled and grated
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon ground allspice
butter (for greasing baking pan or dish), and about 2 tablespoons cut into small shavings
3 tablespoons tomato paste
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. In a bowl, combine the meat with the onion and garlic. Add salt, pepper, and allspice, mixing spices thoroughly into the meat.
3. Spread the meat mixture onto an buttered baking dish (I prefer cast-iron), and flattened the meat with a hand or wooden spoon. The meat should be 3/4 to 1-inch thick. Top with butter shavings. Place in oven and bake until the surface of the meat is browned, about 40 minutes. It will give off a nice, roasted aroma.
4. Meanwhile, mix the tomato paste with the water, and pour over the meat. Continue baking for about 10 minutes more, or until the sauce has been absorbed and the meat is cooked thoroughly.
5. Invert the meatloaf onto a serving dish. Garnish with parsley and serve cut into wedges like a cake.
Yield: 4 servings
Note: I’m told that another variation is to flavor the meat with 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, or 1 teaspoon each of ground cumin and coriander. Feel free to experiment.

Codfish – Portuguese Style

November 5, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I have some Portuguese friends who informed me of this recipe. They state this is the way codfish is normally prepared in Portugal. As a Puerto Rican, I am a fan of codfish. Also, the icing on the cake is that it calls for eggplant, another of our favorite foods. The recipe is easy, nutritious, and delicious. Who could ask for more?

I’m told that this dish is usually served with rice. If not rice, then baked or steamed potatoes will do.

CODFISH – PORTUGUESE STYLE

1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium eggplant, peeled and sliced into rounds about 1/4-inch thick
3 onions, peeled and sliced into rings
2-3 pounds codfish fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon paprika
4 tomatoes,sliced into rings
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons butter

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. In a large skillet or frying pan, heat the oil and cook the eggplant slices and onions until the eggplant begins to brown and onions are clear and translucent. If you don’t have a large frying pan, you can cook the onions and eggplant separately and get the same results (depending upon the amount of vegetable used, you may need more oil).
3. In a baking dish (I prefer cast iron), spread the eggplant, and then layer the onions rings over the eggplant.
3. Rub the fish fillets with salt, pepper, and paprika. Place the fish over the onion rings. Cover with the tomatoes and garlic. Pour the wine and lemon juice over fish and vegetables. Top with butter.
4. Bake for 1/2 hour or until the fish is tender.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

Rice with Cheese and Creamed Eggs

October 29, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In our culture, rice comprises a main component. It’s not only just a side dish. In most cases it constitutes a major part of the meal whether it’s something like Arroz con Pollo (rice and chicken) or Asopao (a hefty stew), or fragrant yellow rice. When my horizons expanded, I discovered there were other methods of preparing rice—such as Italian Risotto, or Indian cumin rice, or Chinese fried rice (by the way, an American invention). The Risotto, combining Arborio rice with broth and grated cheese fascinated me. And I began experimenting, and I came up with this beauty—a simple rice with cheese and a sauce of creamed eggs. In this case, the sauce is simplicity itself: Take a can of cream soup (I like cream of mushroom) and combine it with eggs and the rice. For the cheese, you can use any cheese desired. It could be grated Parmesan, or Swiss, Gruyere, Gouda, Romano, Monterey Jack, etc. For this recipe, I used Cheddar. Whatever cheese ingredient used, you get a hearty, rich, delicious and inexpensive meal, great by itself or served with fish, seafood or meat.

In this dish, the rice is mixed with saffron, to give it that unique taste and color so revered in our cooking. If you don’t have (or can’t afford saffron) then turmeric will give the same glow and coloring. This is something acquired from Indian cuisine. It gives the dish that added oomph. As an added treat, the rice can be served in a ring mold. If you don’t have a mold, take any round pan or pot (with enough space to hold the rice), rinse the pan under cold running water, and stuff it with the cooked rice. Let it sit a couple of minutes. Then unmold, tapping the top of the pan gently, on a plate. Pour the sauce atop the rice, and you got a highfalutin continental dish.

RICE WITH CHEESE AND CREAMED EGGS

1 1/2 cups rice
2 cups water
Salt to taste
1/4 teaspoon saffron or turmeric
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 cups grated Cheddar cheese (or any variety desired)
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings
1 can (10 3/4 oz.) cream of mushroom soup
3 tablespoons water
1/2 cup diced canned pimentos
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
6 hard-cooked eggs, quartered

1. In a 2-quart saucepan or pot, bring the water to a boil. Add rice, saffron and olive oil. Mix well, cover, reduce heat to a simmer and cook until tender and all the liquid has been absorbed (20 minutes to 1/2 hour).
2. Stir in cheese. Cover, and let sit for 10 minutes.
3. While rice is cooking, melt butter in a skillet or fry pan. Add onion and saute until soft and translucent. Stir in mushroom soup, water, pimentos, and parsley.
4. Add eggs and heat briefly.
5. Layer rice/cheese mixture into a ring mold (or individual custard cups) packing tightly with a spoon. Unmold rice ring on a serving plate. Spoon egg sauce over rice, or over individual rice molds.
Yield: 6 servings.

Breaded Pork Chops – PR Style

Breaded pork chops (Chuletas Empanadas) are a family favorite in my neck of the woods. In the Nuyorican method, we have two ways of making them. One quicky method is to apply the breading and then bake slowly in a medium oven (350°). The other way is listed in the recipe given below. Here, lean pork chops are required, about 1/2-inch thick. They are lightly pounded, breaded and cooked in oil. In the Puerto Rican manner, the herbs used are crushed in a mortar. You can buy a mortar and pestle almost anywhere these days. It can be wood (my preference), aluminum or cast iron. It is an essential tool in Caribbean cooking. We usually served breaded pork chops with yellow rice or a salad.

An added note: This recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunders Mouth Press – Avalon Books), which is currently going into its third printing. If you’re interested in other such recipes, by the book, make me happy.

CHULETAS EMPANADAS

(Breaded Pork Chops)

8 pork chops, 1/2-inch thick (about 1 1/2 pounds)

9-10 whole black peppercorns

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tablespoons fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon vinegar

2 eggs lightly beaten

2 cups bread crumbs

Vegetable oil for frying

1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.

2. In a mortar, crush peppercorn, garlic, oregano and salt. Add olive oil and vinegar, and mix.

3. Place chops between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound lightly with a mallet or a heavy cleaver.

4. Rub seasoning into the pork chops.

5. Dip each chop in the beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs, pressing crumbs into both side with heel of hand.

6. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan and cook until golden brown (about 4-5 minutes per side). Drain on absorbent paper towels.

Yield: 4 servings.

Tostones with Broiled Lamb Chops

October 9, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Tostones are fried green plantains. Its probably the most popular side dish in Puerto Rican cuisine. It’s also popular in Dominican and Cuban cooking. In our family we have tostones frequently, which reflects our cultural norm. Go to any Caribbean restaurant, and tostones will be on the menu.This is not the first time we’ve featured fried green plantains on this blog. It was one of the first recipes we noted when I began this journey (see post of 9/9/10).

For tostones, you need green (not ripe plantains). Yes, ripe plantains can also be prepared, but that’s another story. Green plantains (platanos) can be found in most supermarkets these days, If not, any Caribbean or Asian market will usually carry them. This time around I’ve paired tostones with another favorite, broiled lamb chops. A light red wine, like a Gamay, Bardolino or Beaujolais, will complement the meat very well. If not, then a good robust beer or ale will will do (not that light beer stuff that taste like water).

TOSTONES WITH BROILED LAMB CHOPS

3 green plantains
4 cups water
2 tablespoons salt
Vegetable oil for frying
4 lamb chops, about 1-inch thick
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon turmeric
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Butter
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Juice of 1/2 lemon

1. Remove skin from the plantains. This is done by cutting tips at both ends; then cut a slit along the length of the plantain and peel off. To facilitate easier handling, some cooks dip plantains in hot water and then remove the skin. Once plantains are peeled, cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick. Reserve peels: typically, the unbroken skin of the plantain is used for flattening the tostones.
2. Combine water and salt in a bowl and soak plantain slices for 30 minutes. Drain well.
3. While plantains are soaking, in a bowl combine the olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, oregano and turmeric. Add the lamb chops and marinate for at least 1 hour. Or you can place the lamb chops in a large zip-lock bag, add the ingredients, and marinate that way in the fridge.
4. Broil the lamb chops in a very hot preheated broiler. Brown on both sides, cooking a total of 10 minutes for rare, 15 for medium, 20 minutes for well done.
5. While lamb chops are broiling, fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat oil until very hot (373 degrees F.). Deep fry plantains for 5 to 6 minutes over medium heat until golden yellow.
6. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
7. Place a plantain slice between two plantain peels, envelope fashion, and pound flat with the palm of the hand. Repeat until all slices are pressed. Return plantain slices to skillet and cook until golden brown (about 4-5 minutes longer). Drain on absorbent paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt. Three plantains will render about 12-15 tostones.
8. Transfer lamb chops to a warm platter, and place a pat of butter on each chop. Sprinkle with lemon juice and parsley. Serve with tostones.
Yield: 4 servings.

Super Grains: Amaranth with Roast Chicken (Pollo Al Horno)

September 27, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Today we discuss the second of our super grains. The first was Pearl Barley (see post of 09/20/14). This one is on amaranth (or amaranthus), an ancient grain that was cultivated in Mexico, Guatemala and Peru. Nowadays it’s cultivated as a leaf vegetable in Indonesia, Malaysia, The Philippines, India and East Africa. But outside of such tropical countries it was virtually unknown until recently. At one time it was the main grain consumed by the Aztecs prior to the Spanish conquest. After that conquest, the cultivation of the amaranth seed was outlawed. And it wasn’t until the 1970s that it was revived in Mexico as a popular snack mixed with chocolate or puffed rice.

First of all, apart from being tasty, amaranth is good for you. It’s a good source of protein, and is rich in amino acids, vitamin A,C, thiamine, calcium and iron. It makes a great side dish or even a main course. In Greece it is served as a popular dish called vlita (or vleeta), where it’s mixed with olive oil and lemon juice and eaten as a salad. Amaranth is very easy to cook. And in this recipe I’ve combine it with a Puerto Rican favorite, Pollo Al Horno (Roast Chicken). Most recipes for amaranth call for measurements of 1 cup of the grain to 1 1/2 to 3 cups water or chicken broth. For those who want a more porridge-like consistency, they may use more water. I like amaranth tender but drier, so my measurement is 1 1/2 cup amaranth to 3 cups water. Again, it’s an individual choice. Either way, the recipe is great. You won’t be disappointed.

AMARANTH WITH ROAST CHICKEN
(POLLO AL HORNO)

1 3 to 3 1/4 pounds roasting chicken, cut into generous bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3 cups chicken brioth or water
1 cupo amarnath

1. Wash chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl.
2. In a small bowl or cup, mix olive oil, salt, pepper, oregano, tarragon and crushed garlic. Pour over chicken, rubbing seasoning thoroughly into the skin. Cover bowl and let stand 15 minutes or, better still, overnight. You can also place the chicken in a large zip-lock bag and marinate that way.
3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Remove chicken from marinade and place in a shallow roasting pan. Turn once during roasting, and bake until golden brown and juices are no longer pink, about 30 minutes.
4. While chicken is cooking, bring water to a rolling boil in a heavy saucepan or pot. Add amaranth, cover, lower heat, and simmer until grain is tender and all the water has been absorbed, 20-25 minutes. You can serve the chicken over the amaranth or on the side
Yield: 4 servings.

Super Grains: Barley with Picadillo

September 20, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Due to my beloved wife’s influence, we have been eating a lot of grains lately. Nutritionists will tell you that a diet in whole grains is beneficial to good health and well being. When I was growing up back on the block, the only grain we were familiar with was rice, which is endemic to Puerto Rican cuisine both as an entrée or side dish. The only other grain we had was oats, which we ate for breakfast in the form of oatmeal. Now, since we are more aware, I’ve discovered what I call super-grains. In the next three blog postings I will discuss three of these.

We start with one of the oldest grains around—barley. In this case, pearl barley. That is, barley where the bran (the fibrous outer hull) has been removed, mainly because this makes it cook faster, and is nuttier in taste than hulled barley. I’ve come to love pearl barley, and not only as a side dish. Barley is one of the oldest cultivated grains. There are biblical references to it in Deuteronomy (8:8) where it is one of the crops that is abundant in the Land of Canaan promised to Moses by God. In Ancient Rome it was a main food for gladiators, so much so that they became known as “barley eaters.” It is also a fermentabel component for making beer. In fact, barley beer was one of the first alcoholic beverages developed by humans. Add to that, barley is high in protein, vitamins (such as niacin, riboflavin, and vitamin C) and minerals like calcium and iron.

The recipe below ties pearl barley with a favorite in Nuyorican cooking, picadillo (pronounced “pee-cah-dee-yoh”). I’ve tweaked the recipe by adding heavy cream to the sauce for a richer consistency.

PEARL BARLEY WITH PICADILLO

1 1/2 cups pearl barley
3 1/4 cups water or chicken broth
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound ground beef, pork, turnkey or chicken
1 medium onion. peeled and sliced into rings
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup tomato sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 teaspoons sofrito (see note below*)
1/2 cup heavy cream

1. Place barley, water or broth in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 1/4 hours.
2. While barley is cooking, prepare the picadillo: heat olive in a large skillet or saucepan. Add beef and cook on high heat until meat loses its red color.
3. Add onion and saute over medium heat until onion is transparent and meat is brown (about 3 minutes). Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes more.
4. Add tomato sauce, oregano, salt, pepper, and sofrito. Stir to combine, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
5. Stir in heavy cream, cover, and cook 2 minutes more. Traditionally, picadillo is served over the grain, or you can serve it on the side.
Yield: 4 servings.
*Note: Sofrito is a seasoning which is described in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America. If you don’t have sofrito, you can substitute 1 packet sasón accent, or 1 teaspoon turmeric.

Pork Chops Supreme

September 4, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I got this recipe out of a cookbook which I acquired years ago. It was an old cookbook from 1968: Quick and Easy Dishes – Favorite Recipes of Home Economics Teachers. Remember “Home Economics?” Is it taught in the schools anymore? Anyway, this recipe caught my eye. It was simple enough: pork chops, salt, pepper, onion and tomato. I modified it in that I added cheese, olive oil, oregano garlic, and parsley. You could say I’ve made them Nuyorican Supreme Pork Chops.

PORK CHOPS SUPREME

4 pork chops, about 1 inch thick
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely mince
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 slices tomato
4 slices cheese, preferably a goat cheese like Manchego (but you can substitute Pecorino, Romano, Parmesan,
or other)
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Wash chops under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels.
3. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper.
4. Rub the seasoning into the meat.
5. Place chops in a baking pan or dish. Top with a tomato slice. Add enough water to cover bottom of pan. Place in oven and bake for one hour.
6. Top each chop with slice of cheese. Transfer to broiler part of oven and broil 1-2 minutes until cheese melts.
7. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Grilled Marinated Mint and Mustard Lamb

August 25, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

It’s the waning days of summer, but we’re still grilling. One of my favorites is grilled lamb; which is a change from the usual barbecue steaks, hotdogs and burgers. But how to do it? Lamb offers so many possibilities. One of them is marinated lamb. My favorite method to grill lamb is just to prepare it highly seasoned with salt, pepper, oregano, and olive oil. However, recently I came across a recipe where the marinade consists of fresh mint and mustard. I love mint, and I love mustard. I was in heaven. As with any marinade, it’s best to marinate the lamb at least for four hours or, preferably, overnight. The rest is a snap—grill until done.

GRILLED MARINATED MINT AND MUSTARD LAMB

1 red onion, peeled and chopped
1 bunch mint leaves (reserve 1/4 cup finely chopped leaves)
2 tablespoons dry or regular mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
1 4-5 pound leg of lamb, trimmed, but with a thin layer of fat kept on (I know, it’s fat but, guess what,
that’s what gives it the flavor. get over it.)
1/2 stick butter
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Puree the onion, mint leaves and mustard in a food processor. While the processor is running, add oil in a slow and steady stream.
2. Place lamb in a large zip-lock bag and pour in the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight, turning the bag from time to time to distribute the marinade.
3. On the day of grilling, combine the butter, garlic, chopped mint, salt and pepper in a small saucepan or skillet. Warm over low flame until the butter melts. Set aside.
3. One hour before grilling, let the lamb sit at room temperature. If using charcoal briquettes, prepare an intense fire on half of the grill. If using a gas grill, heat to high.
4. Remove lamb from the marinade and place on the hot portion of the grill. Cook until browned (6-8 minutes). Turn and cook for 5-7 minutes more.
5. Move the lamb to the cool side of the grill and brush with the butter-mint mixture. Cover the grill and cook until the internal temperature reads 125 to 130 degrees (for medium rare). This usually takes 24 to 30 minutes more, turning and basting with the butter-mint mixture occasionally.
6. When done, place on a warm serving platter and let sit for 15 minutes before serving.
Yield: 8-10 servings.

Camarones en Escabeche – Pickled Shrimp

August 17, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Pickled shrimp, marinated shrimp, take your pick. In our culture it’s all the same. Escabeche refers to placing cooked (or partially cooked) seafood into a marinade. That’s where the pickling comes in. In Criollo (Puerto Rican cuisine) we pickle fish, usually swordfish or kingfish steaks, and shrimp. In terms of fish steaks, we cook them first in olive oil, and then marinate them. Shrimp follow the same pattern in that we first boil them lightly and then proceed with the marinade.

A basic Criollo marinade consists of olive oil, red onions, garlic, pimento stuffed Spanish olives, oregano, cilantro, and fresh lime juice. We mix it in a bowl, add the par-boiled shrimp and let the thing sit overnight, and that’s it.. In Spain, they do it differently, and that’s the recipe given below. They omit the Spanish olives, oregano, cilantro, and lime juice. In a way, it’s a simpler recipe. The only other difference is that bay leaves, garlic and peppercorns are simmer first, then added to the marinade ingredients. In all cases, par-boiling, followed by marinating gives the shrimp their tender-firm texture. We serve pickled shrimp with steamed rice. That’s the favorite accompaniment. With a bottle of sauvignon blanc or soave, it can’t be beat.

CAMARONES EN ESCABECHE
(Pickled Shrimp)

1 small red onion, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced cosswise
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
2 bay leaves
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined (you can leave the tail intact, if desired)

1. In a shallow bowl, mix together the onion, vinegar, oregano, and salt. Set aside.
2. In a small saucepan or skillet, simmer on low the olive oil, bay leaves, garlic and pepper for 10 minutes. Then set aside until ready to use.
3. In a pan or pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add shrimp and cook on high heat for 2 minutes.
4. Drain and combine in a bowl (or a zip-lock bag) with the onion mixture along with the oil mixture. Mix well.
5. Store covered bowl (or zip-lock bag) in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight. Discard the bay leaves and serve shrimp cold or at room temperature.
Yield: 4 servings.

Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher