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Winter Drinks for the Holidays

December 12, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The thermometer dips, Christmas decorations abound, and gift-shopping is the norm. It’s that time of year again. Winter and the holidays are upon us. It’s also a time for warming drinks. Eggnog is the old standby; and in my culture we have coquito. Yet there are other winter drinks that are just as delicious and warm you all over. These beverages have been with us since anyone could remember. They have become winter solstice tradition. I cite three favorites: mulled wine; hot toddy; and hot buttered rum. So, while it’s bitterly cold outside, sit back in your favorite armchair, wrap yourself and your love one in a nice blanket or comforter, and savor one of these beverages.

MULLED WINE

This drink goes back to Ancient Rome, where it was first recorded. So, the idea of heating wine and adding herbs and spices is not new. It was very popular in Victorian England, and it still remains so today. The chintziest recipe I came across is noted in the fabled Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide, which calls it “Mulled Claret;” and has sugar, lemon, bitters, nutmeg and cinnamon placed in a metal mug, along with the wine, and then a heated red hot poker is put in the liquid until boiling. Not many people have access to a red hot poker these days thus my recipe is more conventional.

In a large saucepan, combine one bottle (730 ml) red wine (Cabernet, Zinfandel, Burgundy, Merlot), 1/4 cup honey, 1 cup apple cider, 5 whole cloves, 3 cinnamon sticks, 3 star anise, 1 teaspoon ground ginger or allspice. Bring to a boil and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Stir occasionally to make sure the honey had completely dissolved and the ingredients have been well blended. Pour into mugs and serve. If desired, you can add a thin, round orange slice to each serving. Serves about 4-6.

HOT TODDY

Another oldie. It was once touted as a sure-fire cure for colds and the flu. I don’t know about that, but it’s great for wet and cold weather. Supposedly, the toddy (or “tottie”) is Scottish in origin. The alcohol of choice for a toddy is whiskey; but you can substitute dark rum if desired.

In a 5-ounce glass put one lump or teaspoon of sugar. Add 2 ounces whiskey. Then fill glass with boiling water. Stir and decorate with a lemon slice, and sprinkle with nutmeg on top.

HOT BUTTERED RUM

The drink of hardened sailors in the old days. The drink traces its lineage to the American colonies, where it had been around since the 1650s.

In a mug put one lump or teaspoon of sugar. Add 2 ounces of dark rum, 1/2 teaspoon butter and 4 whole cloves. Add a pinch of nutmeg, fill with boiling water and stir to combine. Another variation is to float the butter on top (after adding the other ingredients), and include a cinnamon stick (which can also be used as a stirrer).

Hunan Cooking: Lamb

In the last few years, Szechuan-style Chinese cooking has caught on on both coasts. To many of us, after years of eating bland Cantonese-style food, Szechuan cooking was a revelation. It has a spicy, hot component because of its use of chili peppers. It should be noted that, initially, chili peppers were not used in Chinese cooking. They had their own milder variety, farago, also called Chinese pepper or Szechuan pepper. Then, when Portuguese and Spanish traders introduced chilies to the region in the 16th century, the cooking became even more peppery. Hunan cooking is part of this culinary tradition; but it is less well known than its Szechuan cousin. It is often lumped with Yunnan in the south as representative of China’s western regional style of cooking. But there are differences. Not only does it feature the subtle uses of hot spices within the food, it also engages hot and sour and sweet and sour flavor combinations.

Like its neighbors, Hunan does employ stewing and stir-frying techniques along with simmering and steaming. But Hunan cooks are fortunate that they have more ingredients and materials to work with and thus can do more and be more innovative with the ingredients prior to cooking. For example, a classic dish such as orange beef not only contains dried orange peel, but the beef is marinated overnight, washed, and marinated again in egg white, wine, and pepper, then cooked twice in a wok with fresh chili, ginger and orange peel. Another classic dish, General Tso’s chicken, has the chicken marinated in a mix of egg, salt, and pepper, and uses a sauce prior to cooking that has garlic, sugar, rice vinegar, rice wine, chili peppers, and scallions. Hunam lamb is not so outlandish or complicated, but it does have that exquisite Hunan taste. Serve with boiled rice.

HUNAN LAMB

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon rice vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
4 small dried hot chili peppers, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh shredded ginger
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
2 stalks scallion, washed and thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 pound boneless lamb meat, sliced into thin strips (can use boneless lamb leg, lamb shoulder, or stew
meat)
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. In a medium bowl whisk together the soy sauce, wine, cornstarch, vinegar, sugar, and water. Reserve
2. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over high heat. Add the chili peppers, ginger, garlic, and scallion, and stir-fry for about half a minute.
3. Add the lamb and stir-fry until the lamb is no longer pink. Add the sauce mixture and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened (1 to 2 minutes). Stir in the sesame oil, remove from heat, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of JING JING – Szechuan & Hunan Gourmet

Eggah – Arabic Egg Cake

November 13, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Most authorities regard eggah as a dish in Arab cuisine that is similar to an omelet or frittata. Some would say it’s like a tortilla. I would say it’s more like an egg cake. In fact, eggah is nothing like an omelet (or omelette). To my mind, an omelet is something light and fluffy. Eggah is nothing like that. It generally has a filling of chicken, meat, vegetables or noodles. And it’s big, about an inch thick or more. You cut it into slices like a cake. And some cooks bake it in a rectangular dish and serve it in squares like Sicilian pizza.

In Arabic culture, eggah can be served as an appetizer, side dish or even an entree. And it can be eaten hot or cold. As noted, it can be cooked in the oven or on top of the stove. If doing the latter, you require a good, heavy frying pan, preferably cast-iron. Also, the dish should be cooked on low heat for the eggs to set. Butter, usually clarified butter, is used to cook the dish. I depart from this in that I prefer extra virgin olive oil. Another fact: in Iraq the dish is called kuku. I don’t know why.

EGGAH WITH CHICKEN AND NOODLES

1 1/2 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, cooked and cubed. Note: you can also used leftover
cooked chicken—as long as it’s been boned
1 pound tagliatelle or fettuccine noodles
4 eggs
3 cardamon pods, cracked (these can be found in any Asian, Indian or Arabic store)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley

1. To cook chicken breasts: just place them in a pot with water to cover, bring to a boil, lower heat and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes; then cube or cut into small pieces.
2. Cook the noodles according to package direction, but only until al dente. Do not overcook. You can add the chicken stock from the chicken breasts used in the water for boiling the noodles. Drain and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the chicken, noodles, cardamom, salt and pepper, and mix well to combine.
4. Heat oil in a large frying pan or heavy skillet. Add the egg mixture and cook over very low heat for about 1/2 hour, or until the mixture sets. Brown the top under the broiler for about 2 minutes.
5. Top with parsley and serve as is in the pan, cutting into slices. Or, if desired, unmold onto a serving dish and serve that way.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Picture: courtesy of Pinterest

Fish Bilbaina Style

November 1, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

This recipe is a contribution from my late Uncle Phillip, von vivant, raconteur and ladies’ man extraordinair. Phillip was the black sheep of our family, mainly because of his lust for life. You could describe him as a lovable rogue; and he was a fabulous cook. According to him, the origin of this recipe is Bilbao, Spain, in the Basque country. Whether they prepare it this way in Bilbao, I do not know. But Uncle Phillip always stated they did.

Like most of his generation, Uncle Phillip had this thing about Spain and its culture. To a lot of older folk on the island of Puerto Rico, Spain is still regarded as the “mother country.” In fact, La Borinqueña,” the unofficial island anthem, has a phrase in it about the “Spanish motherland.” To us New York bred Puerto Ricans, or Nuyoricans, these sentiments are rather quaint. I have never been to Bilboa. Im sure I’d feel more at home in Lancaster, PA than in Bilboa any day. But I doubt I could find a genuine recipe for Bilbaina style fish in Lancaster, PA, or most parts of the U.S. for that matter.

Let me add that the recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). There are more like it in that tome. Enjoy.

PEZ A LA BILBAINA
(Fish Bilbaina Style)

1 2-1/2 to 3 pound striped bass, cleaned and scale but with head and tail still attached (can substitute
any other firm fleshed fish)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and black ground pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 370 degrees F.
2. Wash fish, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels.
3. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on both sides of fish.
4. Heat olive oil in a frying pan or skillet and lightly brown fish over moderate heat on both sides.
5. Remove fish to a baking dish large enough to hold it comfortably. Top fish with onions. Then layer with tomatoes, and finally with the green pepper strips.
6. Pour tomato sauce over the fish, and sprinkle with minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
7. Bake uncovered, for about 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.
Yield: 4 servings.

Caption: courtesy of ian brodie

Rice Cake, Glazed and Ornamented

October 23, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Marie Antoine Careme is regarded as the leader of what is called la grande cuisine Francaise. That is, the classic French style of cooking heavy on sauces, heavy on creams, heavy on decoration, heavy on everything. Careme had an impressive resume. At various times he was chef de cuisine to Czar Alexander I and the Rothschilds. But his recipes are daunting. Most are difficult to emulate, even in a modern kitchen. Case in point are his famous chartreuse dishes such as Chartreuse printuniere (Sping Chartreuse), Chartreuse à la parisienne, en surprise, and Chartruese de perdreaux, which he called “the queen of all entrees.” These were molded dishes using an assortment of vegetables, fowl, wild game, sausages, and a host of other stuff. His Paris Chartreuse even has truffles, pullets, fillets, forcemeat (meat mixture with fat), and lobster tail all baked in a cylindrical mold.

I took one look at these recipe and said, No way. It would take forever to do one of these things. But you have to give credit to the man. His list of classic French dishes is exhaustive. With such works as L’art de la cuisine au dix-neuvième siècle (The Art of the Kitchen at the XIX Century) and Le mâitre d’hôtel francais (The Mâitre d’ of the French Hotel) he not only discussed garnishes and accessories, but also took on such topics as the provisioning and organization of the kitchen. All that said, I did manage to find one recipe which I can identify with. And which under the circumstances, is not that difficult to make. So, kiddies, here’s your chance to create something on the grande mode of classical cuisine. This will surely impress family and friends. You’ll become the Julia Child of your set. The recipe is Rice Cake Glazed and Ornamented. I give it exactly as noted by Monsieur Careme.

RICE CAKE, GLAZED AND ORNAMENTED

Put 8 ounces of rice, boiled as usual, with the addition of a clove of vanilla, in a semi-globular mold, buttered; then turn it on a dish, and when cold, mask it all over with transparent apricot-marmalade. Decorate the top and the sides, according to your fancy, with pistachios, angelica, currants, verjus grapes, and preserved cherries. Serve it up, either hot or cold.

Yield: about 4 servings

Note: Verjus grapes are unripe, green grapes. You can substitute seedless green grapes if convenient.

Caption: courtesy of exclassics

Duxelles

October 18, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

So you’re asking, What the hell are duxelles? Simple: think of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter with shallots and wine. They’re cousins to stuffed mushrooms. Some describe them as a mushroom confit. Okay, what’s a confit? Confit is a term for various foods that are coked in oil or sugar and preserved. Often they are sealed and stored for future use. The term originated in the Middle Ages when fruits were cooked and preserved in sugar. Duxelles can be cooked and stored in this way as well.

All this mishigas can be ascribed to one Pierre Francois de la Verenne. He is recognized as the first great French chef of the modern era. He was the first to codify the Franco-Italian cuisine that had evolved into la grande cuisine Francaise or classic French cooking. His cookbook, Le Cuisinier Francois, was published in 1650, and is regarded as a landmark in the history of European cuisine. He was the first to describe stuffed mushrooms and (you guessed it) duxelles. Don’t let the fancy French moniker scare you. Duxelles are very easy to make, and they are delicious when added to sauces and vegetable. They also make great fillings for omelets, fish or meat dishes.

DUXELLES

1 stick butter
2 pounds fresh mushrooms, washed, drained, and finely chopped (stems and caps included)
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 tablespoons dry sherry or Marsala wine
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. In a medium saucepan or skillet, melt the butter over low heat (being careful not to burn it). Add mushrooms and shallots, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until the mushrooms give up most of their liquid. Add more butter as needed.
2. Add dry sherry and cook about 5 minutes longer until the mushrooms are black in color. You want the mushrooms to be somewhat dry but not bone dry. Season with salt and pepper. You can serve as is or store in a tight jar or container. They’ll be good for 1-2 weeks in the fridge.
Yield: About 4 cups.

Note: Italians make duxelles as little differently. If you prefer the Italian style, add 1 teaspoon of lemon juice to the shallots and mushrooms and cook 4-5 minutes over moderate heat. Add 3 ounces of diced boiled ham, cook 5 minutes more, add 1/4 cup dry Madeira wine or brandy. Stir to mix until heated through.

Caption: courtesy of 500 Tasty Sandwiches

Rice with Crabmeat

October 9, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In our culture we love crabmeat, what we call “jueyes.” In our family, my father’s favorite rice mix was rice with crabmeat. Whether living in Spanish Harlem or Puerto Rico, my father would spend countless hours seeking a restaurant with the best recipe. However, none compared to my mother’s arros con jueyes.

Let me state that, if desired, you can prepare the crabmeat from scratch; and it’s best to use Caribbean crabs. Such a recipe is given in my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America p. 192-193 (Perseus Books – Running Press). But if you’re press for time and don’t want to bother with preparing the thing, you can use canned crabmeat. No one is going to fault you for it.

ARROZ CON JUEYES
(Rice with Crabmeat)

2 cups rice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 ounces lean cured ham or salt pork, rinsed and diced
1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
3 sweet chili peppers (aji dulce), seeded and chopped (found in any Asian or Caribbean market)
1/2 cup tomato sauce
6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives
1 1/2 cups crabmeat
1 packet sasón accent (Goya makes a good one with coriander and annatto)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Water to cover rice

1. Wash rice under cold running water, and drain.
2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and brown ham over moderate heat.
3. Add bell pepper, onions, garlic and sweet chili peppers. Sauté for about 3 minutes.
4. Add tomato sauce, olives, and mix well.
5. Stir in rice, crabmeat and sasón accent.
6. Add water to cover contents in kettle by 1/4 to 1/2 inch above level of rice. Adjust salt and pepper to taste.
7. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed and rice is tender ((about 20 minutes).
8. Uncover and simmer 5 minutes more if drier rice is preferred.
Yield: 6 servings.

Photo: courtesy of ifood.tv

Stuffed Eggs Seville Style

October 4, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

When I was growing up, one of the favorite dishes we had in the family was stuffed eggs (think of deviled eggs). But our method was called stuffed eggs “Seville style.” My Uncle Phillip, of late memory, swore that this was the way they prepared eggs in Seville. I have no historical proof of this. We just took him at his word. We know that Seville (Sevilla – “Seh-Vee-Yah” in Spanish) is a city in Southern Spain. It was under Muslim rule for over 400 years and it could have been the Muslims who introduced this type of dish to the region. Again, this is all conjecture on my part. If somebody out there has more accurate information, please let me know.

The dish itself is very easy to prepare. All you need is eggs, olives, onion, mayo and Worcestershire sauce. That’s it. It’s quick and convenient and will impress family and company. The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). Enjoy.
HUEVOS RELLENOS A LA SEVILLA
(Stuffed Eggs Seville Style)

8 hard boiled eggs
1/2 cup chopped pimento stuffed olives
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1. Slice eggs in half lengthwise and remove yolks. Set the hollow whites aside.
2. In a bowl, combine yolks, olives, onions, mayonnaise, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Mix well.
3. Stuff the hollow egg whites with the egg-yolk mixture.
4. Place in a serving dish the refrigerator and chill.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Photo: courtesy of Real Simple – Life Made Easier

Pimientos Rellenos (Stuffed Peppers)

September 18, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In the Jewish Calendar, this week commemorates the beginning of the holiday known as Sukkot. This is the harvest festival that follows the solemn holiday of Yom Kippur, or the Day of Atonement. Among the traditional foods served on this occasion are stuffed vegetables. It is noted that stuffed foods represent a bountiful harvest. Think of a cornucopia of veggies and fruit. Thus, in celebration, I’m putting out my pimientos rellenos recipe from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group—Running Press). So, my Jewish friends and colleagues, liven up the occasion with stuffed peppers Puerto Rican style. And for those of you who are not Jewish, it’s still a great dish to enjoy anytime.

Let me add that the recipe calls for shredded cheddar cheese on top. You can either omit or add it to the mix.

PIMIENTOS RELLENOS
(Stuffed Peppers)

4 medium green or red bell peppers
6 whole black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar
1 pound lean ground beef
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup dry bread crumbs
2 medium tomatoes, cored and diced
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Slice the top off the peppers. Remove and discard the seeds and white veins.
3. Drop peppers into boiling water to cover and boil for 3 minutes. Remove, drain and set aside.
4. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil and vinegar.
5. In a bowl, combine meat with seasoning.
6. Brown meat in a very hot skillet (no extra oil is necessary).
7. Add onion, bread crumbs, tomatoes and tomato sauce. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes.
8. Stuff the peppers with beef-tomato filling and place in a shallow baking dish. Top with shredded cheese, if desired, and bake 20-25 minutes.
Yield: 4 servings.

photo: courtesy of Andicakes

Kreplach: Jewish Wontons

September 13, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Kreplach (or kreplakh) are meat-filled dumplings often served in a clear soup. They are similar to tortellini or Chinese wontons. That’s why they are also referred to as “Jewish wontons.” They are a traditional pre-fast meal before Yom Kipper, or the Day of Atonement. They are also eaten on Simchat Torah and Purim. Not being very religious, I like to eat them all year round. According to the experts, kreplach may have evolved among Ashkenazi (Eastern European) Jews in Germany during the 14th century, who got the idea about stuffing dumplings from Jews in Venice, who got the idea from stuffed pasta.

Ground meat can used as the filling for kreplach; but in my circle most of my Jewish friends use ground chicken. I have no problems with whatever meat filling may be used. However, in my experience, the key to great tasting kreplach is an onion cooked with the meat, using not oil but schmaltz, rendered chicken fat. I know, you’re rolling your eyes and saying “Chicken Fat!” But, yep, there’s no way getting around it. You can buy schmaltz in any supermarket these days; or you can make your own. I know it’s time consuming, but I prefer to make my own. You can use the same chicken for the meat filling as well as making the schmaltz.

Kreplach, like all good things (think of Puerto Rican pasteles), takes time and patience. Yet the rewards are infinite when you eat the suckers.

KREPLACH

Filling:

3 tablespoons schmaltz (see recipe)
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
3/4 pound ground chicken, cooked
1 egg
Salt and black ground pepper to taste

Dough:

3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons water
2 cups all-purpose flour

Schmaltz:

Take 1 chicken (4-5 pounds), and cut away fatty skin and other fat particles into small pieces. Place pieces in a pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook until water evaporates. Add 1 medium diced onion, and cook on low heat until onions are brown. The fat, or schmaltz, is now done. Let cool and remove onion pieces. Store schmaltz in covered jars. The jars can be frozen or kept in the refrigerator.
Note: You can cook the leftover chicken by boiling or broiling, and use it for the rest of the recipe.

1. In a medium fry-pan or skillet, heat the schmaltz and saute the onion with the ground chicken. Pour off excess fat and let cool slightly. Mix in the egg and salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. For the dough: In a large bowl, beat together the eggs, salt and pepper. Add water and gradually beat in enough flour to form a stiff dough. Using your hands, knead well and quickly. Then divide dough into 2 balls; and cover each ball with a moist towel.
3. Using a rolling pin, roll out one ball of dough very thin, and cut into 6 strips, each about 1 1/2 inches wide. Now cut the pieces into 1 1/2 inches square.
4. Place about 1/2 teaspoon of meat mixture in center of each dough square. Dampen edges and fold over to form a triangle. Press the edges together firmly, using additional flour if necessary to make them stick. Repeat procedure with the second ball of dough.
5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, drop kreplach into boiling water and simmer on low heat for about 15 minutes. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon. You can also drop kreplach into hot soup and cook them that way. Or you can brown them in the oven or a skillet, and serve as a side dish.
Yield: About 50-60 kreplach depending on size.

Photo: courtesy Joy of Kosher

Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher