Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

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Sukiyaki – The Perfect Party Dish

January 19, 2010 / / 0 Comments


Back when I was a young man there was a hit song: “Sukiyaki,” sung in Japanese by a crooner named Kyu Sakamoto. As far as I know it was the only Japanese language song to top the charts in the U.S. It wasn’t until years later when I was in Japan that I discovered the dish, sukiyaki. This gem is a popular one-pot meal in Japan, and is the perfect winter dish. It is a dish cooked in the nabemono (Japanese Hot Pot) style; and normally consists of thin slices of beef slowly cooked or simmered in a pan or skillet with other ingredients such as vegetables, to which soy sauce, sugar and mirin (Japanese rice wine) can be added. A vegetarian version can be made with tofu.

The origins of sukiyaki are murky. Meat, especially game and poultry has been cooked in Japan since time immemorial. Farmers use to cook the meat (yaki) by grilling it outside on a spade or plow share (suki). Hence, the literal meaning, sukiyaki. In the 16th century Portuguese traders brought beef with them, and the Japanese started preparing sukiyaki with beef.

Today sukiyaki is popular world-wide, and can be found in many restaurant menus. It is the perfect party dish since it can be cooked at table with the ingredients already set individually or in a large plate. You cook the ingredients as you go. You don’t have to cook in the kitchen, as noted in the recipe below. And remember that sukiyaki is a communal thing. It cannot wait for the guests. Before cooking begins, have your guests comfortable and seated, nibbling on appetizers, and the hot rice served at the beginning.

SUKIYAKI

1 1/2 pounds beef tenderloin or flank steak
1 pound rice (it could be short grain, such as Nishiki, or medium or long grain)
1/2 pound transparent or silver noodles
6 scallions, washed and cut into thin slices (minus the root end)
8-10 white mushrooms, cut through the stem and crown so that it resembles a “T” shape.
1/2 pound fresh spinach, washed and torn into bite-size pieces
1 pound canned bamboo shoots, drained
1/2 pound bean sprouts, drained if canned. If fresh, blanch, then rinse and drain.
2 tablespoons peanut oil

Sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup rice wine (mirin) or dry sherry
2 teaspoons sugar

1. Put the meat in the freezer for about 1/2 hour to firm it enough so that it can be sliced into paper thin slices. If the slices are longer than 4 inches, halve them. Arrange meat slices on a round platter, slightly overlapping, cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate.
2. Cook rice according to package directions. Set aside and keep it warm.
3. Place noodles in a bowl. Cover with boiling water, and soak for 20 minutes. Drain, and repeat procedure. Drain again and place in bowl.
4. Here you have a choice. You can either arrange all the vegetable on a large platter. Or you can put the onions and scallions in one bowl, each divided into one-half of the bowl; and the mushrooms, spinach, bamboo shoots, and bean sprouts into their own small bowls as well.
5. Prepare sauce: In a small saucepan bring soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, and sugar to a boil. Pour into a sauce dish.
6. Place wok (on top of a burner) or an electric frying pan in the middle of the table. Spoon rice into 4 individual bowls. Arrange all ingredients around the wok or fry pan. Heat oil in the wok or pan over high heat. Add one-fourth of meat slices and brown quickly on both sides. Sprinkle some of the sauce mixture over the meat, and push aside. Add one-fourth of each of the vegetables and noodles and stir-fry for approximately 3 minutes.
7. Each guest is given part of the cooked meal and starts eating while the second portion is being prepared. Each guest can add more sauce according to taste.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: Traditional sukiyaki in Japan includes a bowl of raw beaten eggs. Each guest dips the cooked vegetables into the eggs before eating. I have a problem with raw eggs in any venue, even with cooked vegetables. If you want to include eggs, an alternative is to cook the eggs with the ingredients and then serve.

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Comfort Food – Kugel

January 8, 2010 / / 0 Comments


Kugel is a dish that was introduced to me by my close and dear friend, Paul Goldstein. When I was a young man, we were roommates and shared a place together in the upper Bronx. I had just returned from Vietnam and, admittedly, my interests were in good drink, chasing the ladies, and having fun. Paul, on the other hand, apart from his many talents, was a good cook. See, Paul is the archetypical Renaissance man: he is a sculptor, writer, artist—and a damn good carpenter to boot. One of our culinary mainstays during those days was kugel.

For those unfamiliar with it, kugel is a Jewish casserole that may be served as a side dish or a dessert. The word itself comes from the German. It means “ball” or “round.” The dish was given this name because of the small round pot in which it was cooked. As noted, it is of Eastern European Ashkenazi origin. It is normally eaten on the Jewish Sabbath, as well as other Jewish holidays.

Kugels began about 800 years ago; and they were made from bread and flour. Today the base ingredient for kugel may include potatoes, noodles, or matzo flour. There are fruit kugels, vegetable kugels, and even (I’m told) Rice Crispy kugel (no lie). So herein is Paul Goldstein’s kugel, which is based on his aunt’s original recipe (with modifications). Whip it up tonight (or whenever you wish), and have a great time. Note that the dish can be served hot or cold, by itself, or with apple sauce or sour cream. You can even try it with vanilla ice cream.

PAUL GODLSTEIN’S KUGEL

8 ounces egg noodles
2 eggs
2 golden delicious apples, peeled and cut into large pieces
1 pear, peeled and cut into large pieces
1/3 cup raisins
cinnamon (to taste—lots of it)
Margarine or butter

1. Cook egg noodles according to package directions, drain and put back into the pot or pan.
2. Add apples, raisins, eggs, and cinnamon.
3. Heavily apply either the margarine or butter to a large cast-iron frying pan, making sure the sides are well covered with the margarine. Pour noodle mixture into pan and press down with hand and fingers.
4. Cook on medium heat until bottom is either blackened or slightly burned. Turn the kugel over into a plate, grease the pan again and slip the kugel back into the pan. Cook until other side is done. Usually the pan is covered while the second side is cooking.
Yield: about 6 servings.

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Coconut Rice Pudding for Epiphany

January 5, 2010 / / 0 Comments

We are coming up on January 6th, which is the time where in the Spain, the Caribbean, and Latin America, they celebrate the Epiphany. This commemorates the birth of Jesus Christ and the visitation of the three Magi, or Wise Men from the east. These three royal wise men or kings were Melchior (representing Europe), Gaspar (Arabia) and Balthazar (Africa). They brought gifts, respectively, of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus. The day is Known as El Dia De Los Reyes (the Day of the Kings); and it is also sometimes called EL Dia De Los Reyes Magos (The Day of the Three Royal Magi).

Traditionally, just like at Christmas, children receive gifts to commemorate the day. In Puerto Rico, in the old days, it was customary for kids to fill a box with grass or hay and put it underneath the bed. This was for the camels that the magi rode to Bethlehem, where Jesus was born, following the star that led them there. You left the grass or hay so that the Wise Kings would be generous with their gifts. The custom is similar to kids in the U.S. leaving out milk and cookies for Santa Claus.

In Louisiana, Epiphany is the beginning of the Mardi Gras season, with the revels and parades the citizens of New Orleans are so familiar with.

In our culture, a traditional dish for the holidays, inclusive of Epiphany, is Arroz con Dulce (also known as Arroz con Coco). It’s a coconut based rice pudding. The normal way of preparing it involves using ripe coconuts, extracting the coconut milk, grating and using the coconut shreds to enhance the liquid used for cooking the dish. It’s great but time consuming. If you don’t have coconuts around, it perfectly alright to substitute coconut cream or milk which can be found in almost any supermarket these days. If you want the original recipe, check it out in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group). Otherwise, just follow the condensed recipe given below.

ARROZ CON DULCE (Rice Pudding)

2 cups rice (either long grain or short grain)
2 cups coconut milk
1 5-ounce can evaporated milk
1 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup seedless black raisins
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon butter or margarine
1/2 cup cracker crumbs
1. Place rice in a saucepan with water to cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 5 hours or preferably overnight.
2. Drain rice, place in a pot or saucepan and add 1 cup of coconut milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, cloves, salt, vanilla, raisins, 1 cup sugar, and butter. Cook on moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, for 1/2 hour or until rice is tender.
3. Add second of coconut milk and remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Stir to blend. Cover and simmer on low heat for 5 minutes.
4. Spoon into a round serving platter or pie plate.
5. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and allow to cool at room temperature before serving.
Yield: 10 servings or more.
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Hoppin’ John – A Southern Tradition

December 30, 2009 / / 0 Comments

In my first foray down south, years ago, I discovered a traditional New Year’s ritual: Hoppin’ John (or Hopping John, for all you uppity types). Southern lore has it that Hoppin’ John is the birthright of every southerner. And it’s a double edged sword. See, Hoppin’ John is the dish that everyone south of the Mason-Dixon line must have on New Year’s day. It ensures continual good luck for the coming year. Skip it and you risk damnation and an accursed 365 days to come. If you don’t eat Hoppin’ John on January 1st, well, all bets are off.

I’ve taken this fable to heart. I partake of Hoppin’ John every New Year’s day. What is consists of is black-eyed peas and rice. Some variations have the beans and rice cooked together. I prefer cooking them separately, and serving the black-eyed peas over the rice.

I assume there are as many Hoppin’ John recipes as there are southern cooks. Most call for ham hocks, country ham, bacon, or ham steak added to the peas. I use ham hocks, which gives the dish an earthy flavor. So here follows the Rivera family version of a southern favorite. By the way, how the dish got its name, I have no idea. If anyone out there knows its history, please let me know.

HOPPIN’ JOHN

1 pound dried black-eyed peas
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium ham hocks
1 large onion, sliced into rounds
1 red or green bell pepper (pimento), chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon oregano
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce or 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 chicken bouillon cube
4 cups water
Cooked white rice (3-4 cups)

1. Preparing the peas: initially I would soak them overnight in water, drain, and cook the next day. I’ve discover that a more convenient (and better way) is to cover the peas with water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and boil for 2 minutes. Then remove from heat, cover pan and let stand 1 hour. Finally, drain peas, rinse well, and set aside.
2. While peas are are being done, rinse ham hocks under cold running water, and pat dry. In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat olive oil and sear ham hocks until browned. Add water just to cover ham hocks, bring to a boil, partly cover, lower heat and simmer ham hocks until tender (about 45 minutes).
3. Add peas, onion, pimento, garlic, oregano, bay leaves, salt, hot pepper sauce, bouillon, and water. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat, and simmer until beans are tender (about 45 minutes).
4. Serve over white rice or, if preferred, you can mix the cooked rice and beans together.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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How About Some Kasha Varnishkes?

December 12, 2009 / / 1 Comment

In the last post I included a recipe for latkes, a traditional dish served during Chanukah, to honor the Festival of Lights. Traditionally, my Jewish friends serve latkes with beef brisket. However, it has been my experience and preference that a great dish to serve with brisket is none other than that usual standby, kasha varnishkes.

Kasha is boiled or baked buckwheat. Actually, buckwheat that has been hulled and crushed. It is a side dish (think of rice or pasta) popular in Eastern Europe. It is traditional comfort food. I love kasha varnishkes, by itself, or as an accompaniment to a main meal. And I prefer that popularly known brand, Wolff’s Kasha. So, without further ado, here is my version of kasha varnishkes.

KASHA VARNISHKES

1 cup kasha (medium grain)
1 large egg (or egg white, if preferred), slightly beaten
1/4 cup margarine or olive oil (being Latino, I prefer the latter)
1 large onion, thinly sliced in rounds
2 cups chicken broth or bouillon
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1 cup bow-tie noodles
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. In a small bowl, combine the egg and kasha. Using a wooden spoon or fork, mix well, making sure all the kasha kernels are coated with the egg.
2. Heat oil or margarine in a heavy skillet or frypan, and saute onions until translucent.
3. Stir in kasha mixture, and cook for a couple of minutes. Add broth or bouillon, salt, pepper, and oregano. Bring to a boil, cover tightly and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring a medium-to-large pot of water to a boil. Cook the bow-tie noodles according to package directions. Drain.
5. When kasha is done, stir in cooked noodles. Put skillet or frypan in the broiler and brown under broiler flame (1-2 minutes).
6. Remove from boiler, sprinkle with parsley, and serve with gravy or as is.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: You can also convert this dish into kasha pilaf by omitting the noodles, and sauteing 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms along with the onions. Or you can add 3/4 canned chickpeas, drained, to the broth or bouillon. This is the fancier way of cooking kasha.

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Latkes for Chanukah – Puerto Rican Style

December 7, 2009 / / 0 Comments

One of my favorite Jewish holidays is Chanukah (also known as Hanukkah). It is a time when family and friends come together to commemorate the holiday by lighting a candle on a menorah for each of the eight days of the celebration. Chanukah means “dedication,” and it notes the rededication of the Holy Temple at Jerusalem by Judah Maccabee and his followers in 165 B.C.E. after its desecration by the forces of the Hellenistic King of Syria, Antiochus IV. This character invaded Judea, outlawed the Jewish religion and ordered an alter be erected to the pagan god Zeus, and pigs sacrificed on the alter.

Once the Maccabees ousted the invaders, they discovered there was only enough purified oil for one day. Miraculously, the oil lasted eight days; enough time for more oil to be purified. My father of late memory use to razz his Jewish friends by asking if the Jewish liberators used Goya or Progresso olive oil. That would get a laugh all around. Anyway, in America and Europe, the traditional dish served on Chanukah is latkes, basically, potato fritters. I love latkes, and I have my own variation on it. Call it the Puerto Rican way of doing things. I’ve discovered that if you add some grated carrots to the recipe, it enhances the flavor.

Another note: Judah Maccabee was also known as Yehuda HaMakabi (“Judah the Hammer”). I reckon that today he would have made a good linebacker.

POTATO LATKES (RIVERA FAMILY STYLE)

3 large potatoes
1 small onion, chopped fine
3 eggs
1/4 cup grated carrots
2 tablespoons matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon oregano
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Oil for frying (I use a combination of vegetable oil and olive oil, 1/2 cup or more)

1. Peel the potatoes and grate them into a bowl. You can do it by hand (the traditional method) or by using a food processor. Squeeze out the extra liquid into the sink.
2. Add onion, eggs, carrots, matzo meal, salt, pepper, oregano and parsley. Mix well.
3. In a large heavy skillet (I prefer cast-iron), heat the oil. Using a tablespoon, carefully drop the potato mixture into the hot oil and fry until browned on both sides, turning only once (about 3 minutes per side). Some people prefer to flatten each latkes with a spoon. Use whatever method you desire. The latkes should not only be golden brown but also crispy.
4. Drain on paper towels and serve with applesauce, sour cream or preserves.
Yield: about 2 dozen or more latkes.

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Turkey Leftovers – The Day After

November 29, 2009 / / 0 Comments

Two days since Thanksgiving and we’re still scarfing down the remains of that 15, 20, or 30 pounder. So what do we today? It’s a challenge, trying to come up with something delicious and different with all that leftover meat. Turkey sandwiches on mayo will just get you so far. So, below, are various ways to utilize leftover turkey. One would be surprise how versatile turkey can be. These recipes go on the basis of 2 cups or more of turkey meant for 4 people. Of course, they can be modified for more helpings.

Turkey Curry: saute leftover meat (either strips or cut up) in olive oil or butter. Add 1 cup chicken or beef broth plus 1 tablespoon curry powder (or to taste). Cook until heated. If you desire a thicker sauce, you can mix the curry powder with flour for thickness, add cold water and blend. Stir into the meat mixture and cook until thicken.

Creamed Turkey: Saute one medium onion in oil, add turkey meat, 1 can cream of chicken soup (can also use cream of broccoli or asparagus). Gradually stir in 1 cup milk. Cook for a few minutes, add juice of 1 lemon and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan, mozzarella or cheddar cheese. If you don’t want it to be too cheesy, then add 1 10-ounce pack frozen green beans or peas. Heat until tender. Serve over biscuits, rice or pasta.

Scalloped Turkey: Alternate layers of turkey, cut up, 2 1/2 cups rich gravy, and 1 cup bread or cracker crumbs, in a greased 1 1/2-quart casserole; dot with butter. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes.

Turkey Croquettes: Combine 1 cup thick white sauce, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, turkey meat, and any other spices to taste. Spread on a plate and chill. Shape 1 rounded tablespoon of mixture for each croquette. Roll in bread crumbs, then 1 beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry in hot oil. Or you can brush with olive oil or butter and bake at 400 degrees until done.

Turkey Creole: In a skillet or pan, saute 1 large chopped onion, 1 small chopped green pepper (pimento) in butter or olive oil. Add 1 cup or 1 can tomatoes (drained), 1 can tomato soup, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and a dash of pepper. Bring to a boil. Then simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Serve over rice or couscous.

Florentine Turkey: Cook 1 pound fresh or 1 10-ounce package frozen spinach. Drain well, and chop fine. Transfer to a 1 1/2-quart casserole. Preheat broiler. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan. Add 3 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper to taste, dried oregano to taste, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Gradually add 1 1/2 cups milk, stirring constantly until mixture thickens and comes to a boil. Add 1/2 cup light cream and diced turkey meat. Stir together and pour cream mixture over spinach. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and dot with butter. Broil until lightly browned.

Turkey Tetrazzini: Saute 1 small chopped onion, 1 small green pepper, and 1 clove garlic, finely minced, in butter or olive oil. Add diced turkey and 1 can cream of mushroom soup. Season to taste, stir and cook until heated. If sauce is too thick, can add 1/4 cup water, if desired. Serve over hot cooked noodles.

Sukiyaki: In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup soy sauce, 1/2 cup beef or chicken broth, 1/4 cup beer, 1 teaspoon sugar, and pepper to taste. Heat 3 tablespoons peanut in a medium skillet and brown turkey meat, cut into fine strips. Keep meat to one side of pan. Pour half of soy sauce mixture over meat. Add 2 cups sliced onions, 1 cup sliced bamboo shoots and 1 cup sliced mushrooms. Saute for 3 minutes. Pour remaining soy sauce mixture into skillet; add 1 cup sliced scallions. Cook for 3 minutes. Serve over cooked, hot rice.

Turkey Stroganoff: Mix together 2 tablespoons flour, salt and pepper to taste. Fry one large chopped onion and 1 clove garlic, finely minced, in 2 1/2 tablespoons butter. Add turkey meat cut into strips. Sprinkle flour mixture over meat and browned onions. Add 1/4 cup beef stock, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce and 1 cup sour cream. Mix well and cook until heated. Fry 1 cup mushrooms in butter and add to mixture. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve over fettuccine noodles.

Turkey Stir Fry: Combine 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 3/4 cup chicken broth, 2 tablespoons cornstarch, and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. In a wok or skillet, heat 3 tablespoons peanut oil, and stir fry 1 medium chopped onion and 1 clove garlic, finely minced. Add turkey meat, cut into strips, and stir-fry 2-3 minutes. Add soy sauce mixture and 1/4 cup chopped scallions. Cook until thicken, and serve over rice.

There you have it, leftover heaven. If this doesn’t make work for you, then next year serve ham or pork loin for Thanksgiving.

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The Puerto Rican Thanksgiving Turkey

November 21, 2009 / / 0 Comments

Yes, it’s that time of year again. My favorite holiday: Thanksgiving. Leave it to the American consciousness to create a holiday devoted to feasting and gluttony. I love it. We Puerto Ricans have our own version of the cooked bird. It’s more highly seasoned than its North American counterpart and, in my humble opinion, more flavorful. You see, back in the days of yore, in Puerto Rico, the main staple for the holidays was pernil, or roasted pork shoulder. For health and other reasons, turkey has supplanted the pernil. But, guess what—we spice up the turkey to taste like pork, or a la criolla (creole style). So, here it is, the Puerto Rican Thanksgiving turkey which we normally serve with yellow rice and pigeon peas (gandules). The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (The Perseus Books Group).

 

PAVO RELLENO A LA CRIOLLA
(Stuffed Roast Turkey)
1 81/2 pound pound dressed-weight turkey
5 cloves garlic, peeled
6 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
4 teaspoon salt
1 cup olive oil
4 tablespoons paprika
1/4 cup vinegar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 pound lean ground beef
1 packet sazon accent (Goya makes a good one with coriander and annato)
1/2 cup stuffed pimento stuffed Spanish olives
4 tablespoons capers, drained
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1. Rinse and wash turkey, inside and out, and wipe dry. Do the same with the heart, liver and gizzard, and then chop innards coarsely. This will be combined with the ground beef when preparing the stuffing.
2. Pound together the garlic, peppercorns, oregano and 3 teaspoons of salt in a mortar. Add 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons paprika, vinegar, and combine. Rub the turkey with the seasoning inside and out—what my mother calls “abodar el pavo” (seasoning the beast). This is done a day ahead (the turkey should be left overnight, in a covered pot, in the refrigerator). This will allow it to absorb the flavors.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or kettle. Add the ground beef and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the meat loses its color. Reduce heat to medium low and stir in the sazon, olives, capers, tomato sauce and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, to complete the stuffing.
4. Remove from heat and let cool. Stuff the turkey loosely about three quarters full. Truss the turkey (sew or skewer together the neck and bind the legs).
5. Place turkey in a roasting pan breast side down. To insure a golden brown exterior combine the remaining 2 tablespoons paprika with the remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the entire turkey with this mixture and roast in a slow to moderate over (325 degrees F.) for 3 1/2 hours. To brown bird, raise temperature to 350 degrees during the last 25 minutes of cooking. This is an excellent way of cooking if in doubt as to tenderness of turkey. Some people prefer covering the turkey with aluminum foil while roasting, and removing this during last 20-30 minutes of cooking time to brown the skin. I find that frequent basting during cooking gets the same result.
Baking theories abound. There is the old traditionalist view that allows 1 1/2 hours for the first pound and then 25 minutes per pound up to 7 pounds and 20 minutes per pound after that. Thus, a 5 pound bird would take 3 hours and 20 minutes, a 7 pounder would take 4 hours and 10 minutes, and a 10 pounder 5 hours and 10 minutes. But in my view, there’s no set rule. Some birds take more time to roast, some less. In the Rivera family we go by general common sense: figure a 7 to 8 pounder takes 3 1/2 to 4 hours to cook; a 10 pounder maybe 4 1/2 hrs., and a 12 pound turkey maybe 5-5 1/2 hours. Rule of thumb: turkey is done when drumstick and thigh move easily.
6. For gravy: remove turkey from roasting pan and keep warm. Drain drippings from roasting pan into a sauce pan. Skim off the fat but retain 1/4 cup of the drippings. Add 2 cups water or 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 1/2 cups water to pan drippings. Bring to a boil over high heat while stirring in the 1/4 cup fat. Lower heat and thicken slightly with a little cornstarch and water combined. If you want to reduce the grease content, mix 3 teaspoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water. Add this to the strained pan drippings and heat, thereby omitting the reaming fat content.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

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Mulsum – The Great Aperitif of Olden Times

November 16, 2009 / / 0 Comments

As noted in an earlier blog, I have always been fascinated by ancient Roman cooking. My second cookbook, The Pharaoh’s Feast (Thunder’s Mouth Press) has a whole chapter on this. Roman meals, especially at the time of the Empire, were sumptuous productions for the upper classes. They were ostentatious and sometimes downright weird. Imagine eating dormice, sow’s womb, and peacock’s brain in a sauce. Admittedly, not something for everyone

Yet, in a Roman banquet (and some of the dishes were quite sophisticated), each meal began with a sweet aperitif, mulsum, a mix of wine and honey. Then the successive courses were served and here, early in the dinner, the guests ate without drinking. Then they drank without eating. Wisely, the Romans, like the ancient Greeks before them, normally drank their wine mixed with water.

An ancient gourmand, Apicius, who lived in the time of Emperor Nero, wrote a tome, On Cookery, or De Re Coquinaria. In it he has a recipe for spiced honey wine that calls for peppercorns, mastic (a sort of resin), bay leaf, saffron, and dates. Trying to emulate this recipe would be a daunting undertaking. I prefer to make the mulsum by simply combining the honey and the wine. The recipe follows below; and note that it is best to use pure, unprocessed raw honey, the type sold in health food stores.

MULSUM

1/2 cup honey
1 bottle medium-dry red wine

1. Heat the honey in a small saucepan. Do not boil. Remove from the honey and let it cool.
2. Mix the wine and honey in a ceramic jar or pitcher and serve at cool room temperature. the wine and honey can also be mixed in a bowl and served in a decanter.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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The Alimighty Egg Cream

November 12, 2009 / / 0 Comments

I recall the first time I was down south, and it was when I was in the military, fresh out of boot camp. I stopped by a local soda fountain store in some God-forsaken burg somewhere and asked for an egg cream. The old cracker behind the counter gave me a weird look and said, “Pard’on?” I repeated my request. He stared at me myopically through thick lens glasses and said, “Yuh wan’ an a-i-ggh in yore cream?” I knew then I was in foreign territory, at least where egg creams are concerned.

Egg creams, in the north, and by that I mean the New York metropolitan area, are a rite of passage, a legendary elixir that defies imagination. I’ve had a love affair when egg creams since my early youth. Even in the Spanish Harlem of old, we revered egg creams. It transcended race, creed, nationality. It was, and still is to some of us, the ultimate good time drink—especially in you like chocolate.

Egg cream’s genesis is said to have begun in Brooklyn, N.Y. Yes, the same borough that gave the world Barbra Streisand, Neil Simon, Neil Young and William Bendix, gave us the egg cream, that immutable mix of cold milk (whole, not skim or partially skimmed), chocolate syrup and seltzer. Historians claims that is began in the Jewish community in the 18880s and 1900s. Yet, it does not have an egg. Some authorities state that initially, before World War II, it did contain an egg that was mixed in with whipped cream and chocolate syrup. I cannot say if this is true or not. The consensus behind this theory is that the egg was dropped from the drink because of wartime rationing.

What I do know is that in my part of the world there has been an ongoing discussion, some would say an argument, about what type of chocolate syrup to use. When I was a kid, it was divided into two camps: those who favored the traditional Fox’s U-bet Chocolate Syrup, and those who preferred Hershey’s Chocolate Syrup. In my neighborhood, there were some partisans who used Bosco as the syrup base. I have never tried it with that.

Sadly, egg creams are becoming a nostalgic entity. Back in my youth, there were neighborhood soda fountains all over, and each served egg creams. Today, they are harder to find. My favorite New York egg cream these days comes from Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop, a diner that has been on 5th Avenue and 22nd street since 1929.

At home, I still make my own egg creams. And I still use the traditional small Coca-Cola glass for it. There are many variations to making a genuine New York egg cream, as you will see below. But in all cases it is imperative that you use a long spoon to mix the chocolate and the milk in order to get a foamy white head.

Here’s a traditional recipe. Oh, yes, very important, the classic egg cream should be drunk straight from the glass. I find that I lose something if I drink it through a straw; I just don’t get the taste of the foamy cream.

 

TRADITIONAL EGG CREAM

1/2 cup cold milk
1 cup bottled seltzer or club soda
2 tablespoons chocolate syrup (or more to taste)

Pour the milk in the bottom of a soda glass. Then drop the chocolate down the side of the glass and gently mix it with the milk, using a long-handled spoon. Now pour the seltzer down the center of the glass and stir with the spoon to generate a thick white foamy head. Some variations argue that you should stir the mixture only after everything has been added, being careful not to disturb the foam. And some say, first add some milk, then the syrup, then more milk and the seltzer. And still others claim that it tastes better using whipped cream instead of milk. You are free to experiment to see which one suits your palate.

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