Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Category: pork (page 5 of 7)

MEMORIES OF CONGEE

Back in my wild and misspent youth, one of the most memorable characters I use to hang out with was a beautiful person named Eddie. He was Chinese, and  was the center of a group whom we termed, The Gang of Four. It was Eddie, myself, Larry (another Chinese guy), and Henry, who is Irish.

After work we would all meet at Lucy Jung’s restaurant on Canal Street. Larry was the manager at Lucy Jung’s, and we would keep him company, drinking and carrying on until the restaurant closed. Then we would go bar hopping in Chinatown. This was the era  when Chinatown had numerous watering holes such as the Golden Valley, The Hon Gong, and Winnies. They’re all closed now. The new generation sits behind laptops and tablets, staring at screens in the local Starbuck’s. The camaraderie that we all knew, is now gone.

Anyway, after a night of drinking, at around 3 or 4 a.m. we would end up in a little hole in the wall restaurant on Doyer’s Street, where we would all have a heaping bowl of congee. This would, hopefully, sober us up so that we could all shuffle to work that same morning—and then start up the same ritual the following evening. As the song says, we were young and surely had our way.

Eddie is no longer with us, but the other guys still are; although we all much older now, and somewhat wiser, all happily married,  and with families. But the memories still linger. Especially of congee, and it’s sobering affects.  Congee, also known as jook, is a hearty stew, more like a rice porridge. It’s popular throughout China, Laos, and Thailand. It can be served as a breakfast, lunch, or dinner dish. It’s simple and delicious. All you need is hot broth (or plain water will do), rice and some meat thrown in. The congee we had in Chinatown was made with pork meatballs. But you can prepare it with chicken, beef, or even fish.

The following is Eddie’s recipe for congee (or jook, as he preferred to call it).

CONGEE

Ingredients:

1 pound ground pork
1 tablespoon Bell’s All Natural Seasoning
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of ground white pepper
1/4 cup finely sliced scallions
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
1 quart chicken broth, or water
1 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1/2 cup jasmine rice
1 tablespoon fish sauce (can be found in any Asian market)
3 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro
Fried garlic oil (recipe follows below)

Instructions:

  1. Place ground pork in a mixing bowl. Mix in Bell’s seasoning, oregano, white pepper, scallions, and salt, if using. Set aside.
  2.  In a wok or soup pot, combine the broth (or water) and ginger. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat.  Add jasmine rice, cover and lower heat to  a gentle simmer. Cook for 20 minutes. Add the pork in tablespoon-sized meatballs.
  3.  Let the mixture simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the fish sauce, transfer to a large serving bowl. Garnish with cilantro and fried garlic oil, and serve. If you prefer,  can also  serve the congee in small individual bowls, and each person can add garnish as desired. Your choice.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Fried Garlic OiI: In a small fry pan, cook 2 cloves garlic (finely minced), in 2 tablespoons olive oil. When garlic is slightly
browned, remove from heat and add to congee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

JAMON AL VIDRIANO (Glazed Ham Steak)

Go online and you’ll find all kinds of recipes for cooking ham steak. Now, I’m not talking about a ham roast where you bake a canned boned ham; but a ham steak, which is just a slice from a whole piece of ham which is used for roasting. Sometimes, for a weeknight dinner you don’t want a  whole ham.  So, a  smaller ham steak is the better deal and it’s more cost effective.

What I noticed for ham steaks is that most recipes call for brown sugar, vinegar, Dijon mustard and a whole lot of other stuff. And these are all well and good, and delicious. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve used these recipes a lot. But we Puerto Ricans have  a whole different way for cooking ham steaks. Different in the ingredients. The cooking method, by and large, remains the same: roasting or baking. But our ham glaze, which is the universal way of cooking a ham steak, is sweeter, and has more of a kick. We add Puerto Rican rum to it.

This recipe has been in our family for ages. We used our glaze for cooking ham roasts, ham steaks, pork roasts and, yes, even canned ham. It’s always been a hit,  never a miss. If you like ham steaks, this is it. Period.

 

JAMÓN AL VIDRIANO
(Glazed Ham steak)

Ingredients

2 boneless ham steaks (with natural juices) about 2 pounds
1 cup orange juice
1/2 cup Puerto Rican dark rum
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon ground ginger
Few whole cloves (5 or 6 )

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  2. Wash ham steak under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  3.  Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until syrupy, about 30 minutes.
  4.  Place ham in a baking dish, pour glaze over ham steaks, and bake until brown on both sides, about 45 minutes, turning every 15 minutes.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

STEAMED PORK PATTY WITH WATER CHESTNUTS AND DRIED CHINESE MUSHROOMS

A while back I came across a book titled Daughters of Heaven—A Memoir with Earthy Recipes by Lesli Li (arcade Publishing, New York). The book reminded me a lot of my own tome, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America, in that it followed the same format: A family saga and coming of age story told through cooking. In my case it was through Puerto Rican culture and Caribbean cooking. In Ms. Li’s fine example, it was told though Chinese culture and its cuisine. It brought to mine that, at heart, we are all the same, and how we cook and use ingredients for our nourishment is paramount.

I enjoyed Ms. Li’s book wholeheartedly. And I still get a kick out of the recipes she posited. One of my favorites is the one given below, Steamed Pork Patty with Water Chestnuts and Dried Chinese Mushrooms. I like steamed patties, always have, be they vegetable, seafood or meat. But this dish struck my fancy in that it’s one large steamed patty filled with flavorful ingredients, and perfect over steamed rice. Think of Shepherd’s Pie if it were steamed rather than baked. A fascinating idea.

Note that for this recipe you’ll need a good sized steamer. It could a bamboo steamer, or a steamer attachment over a wok; or you could place a small metal vegetable steamer (the folding collapsible basket type) inside a large pot, add about 2 inches of water, place a plate with the ingredients atop steamer, cover and steam as you would normally. I use something that I purchased years ago, the Serendipity Pan, which is a 3-piece enamel cookware that works as a wok, steamer and serving platter all in one. Alas, it is no longer sold or made. If you’re lucky enough to find one in a thrift shop or store that sells antique cookware, grab it! Otherwise, go with what you have.

Another thing: the recipe calls for placing the mixture in a loaf pan or baking pan. I discover that it works just as well if you place the pork mixture in a deep plate or platter that fits into the steamer. It gives you the same results. So, go at it, and enjoy!

STEAMED PORK PATTY WITH WATER CHESTNUTS AND DRIED CHINESE MUSHROOMS

1 pound pork butt, trimmed of excess fat and minced fine or 1 pound lean ground pork, minced fine.
4 large dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked in boiling water for 10 minutes, stems discarded, caps minced
10 canned water chestnuts, minced
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar (or honey)
½ teaspoon salt (optional)
1 tablespoon fine julienne of peeled fresh ginger root.

In a bowl stir together the pork, mushrooms, water chestnuts, soy sauce, oil, cornstarch, sugarand salt. Aerate the mixture by fluffing with a fork.

Transfer mixture to a loaf pan or other baking pan that will fit in a steamer, being careful not to pack the mixture down. Sprinkle with the ginger root. Put the pan in a steamer set over boiling water. Steam the pork, covered, for 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.

Croquetas – Spanish Croquettes

Croquetas is one of the most popular tapas dish in Spanish cuisine.  They are very common in bistros in Spain, where they are enjoyed as a tidbit with dry sherry. In my family we savored them, but not as tapas appetizers. We made them as big as meatballs, to be served as an entrée.

Croquetas are usually accompnied with aioli, a Mediterranean sauce made with garlic and olive oil. In our version we add mayonnaise.

So, add a little Iberian flare to your dinner. Other than sherry, the dish goes great with any dry white wine, or red, for that matter. In our family, we never stood on ceremony where the wine was concerned—whatever you liked, was okay.

 CROQUETAS

1 package (12-oz) bacon
1 medium onion, chopped
1 red medium apple, chopped
3/4 cup
1/2 stick unsalted butter
3 cups milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 eggs
1 cup flour
1 cup breadcrumbs

Aioli

1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon roasted peppers
Juice of half a lemon
Salt to taste

           1. In a medium skillet, add the bacon and onion and cook over medium heat until the onions are soft and
translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add the apple and cook until it begins to release water, about 4
minutes. Whisk in the butter and cook until melted. Add 3/4 cup flour and cook for about 2 minutes. Add the
milk, a little bit at a time. Cook, whisking constantly, until the flour absorbed, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer
the mixture to a medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the fridge to chill.
2. Meanwhile, make the aioli: in a medium bowl, mix the mayo, roasted peppers and lemon juice. Season  with
salt and pepper.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs. In another medium bowl, add the 1 cup flour. And in a third bowl, add the
breadcrumbs. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator. Using your hands, form into balls.  Again, we like
them big, about 1 1/2 to 2-inch rounds. Dip each ball into the flour, the eggs, and the breadcrumbs.
4. In  a large saucepan add enough vegetable oil to come four inches up the side of the pan. Or you can use any
deep fryer (we use a Fry Daddy). Heat the oil until very hot, add the breaded balls and fry until golden brown,
about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. You may have to do this batches since they are large  croquetas. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer the croquettes to paper towel-lined platter. Continue until all are fried. Serve hot with the aioli.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pork Tenderloin

 Pork tenderloin is perfect when roasted or slow cooked on the stove in a rich sauce. Since it’s still grilling season, I decided to try it that way. My fear was, how do I get juicy tender meat on a grill and not a charred slab with a raw interior? I know friends who have tried grilling pork tenderloin and it doesn’t come out right. On the stove-top that’s no problem, slow cooking will always get you tender meat. I figured the only way this could be accomplished was by using  lower than usual heat, and constant turning of the meat.

Turns out the technique was okay. I got a well-seared meat where the interior was fairly cooked. Now, I use a gas grill. How this will turn out on a charcoal grill, I do not know. Perhaps someone can try it on a charcoal grill and let me know how it comes out. Also, I decided to add a simple spice rub with maple syrup, cumin and coriander. This is optional. You can use whatever seasoning desired, even plain salt and pepper will work. You can also substitute honey for the maple syrup.

This time of year, zucchini is plentiful. Thus, I cooked a bunch of zucchini with the thing. If desired, you can grill whatever veggies come to mind. However, when using potatoes, I’ve discovered it’s best if they’re cut no bigger than half inch rounds.

GRILLED PORK TENDERLOIN

1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon maple syrup or hone
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 pork tenderloins (about 12-16 ounces)
2 medium zucchini, sliced into 1/2-incg round
Olive oil

  1.  In a small bowl combine salt, maple syrup, cumin and coriander.
  2.  Rinse  pork tenderloins and pat dry with paper towels. Rub spice mixture evenly on both tenderloins.
  3.  Turn grill to high, using all burners. Cover, and heat until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high, but turn off other burners.
  4.  Place tenderloins on oiled cooking grate. Cover and cook , turning every 2-3 minutes, until browned on all sides, about 8-9 minutes.
  5.  Brush zucchini  slices with olive oil. Move tenderloin to cooler side of grill. Place zucchini on hotter middle center of grill. Cover and cook until charred and softened, about 5 minutes. Continue turning tenderloins every 2-3 minutes. Once pork registers 140 degrees on instant read thermometer, it’s done. It could be you may have to remove zucchini before pork is done. Once both tenderloins and zucchini reached desired level of doneness, remove from grill. Place zucchini on a plate, and tenderloins on a carving board. Tent pork with aluminum foil and let rest 8 minutes.  Slice about 1/2-inch thick and serve with zucchini (or any other veggie desired)
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

Chuletas A La Parrilla – Grilled Pork Chops

This is the Nuyorican way of grilling pork chops. Grilling season  inspires us in the myriad ways of cooking meat. In this one we use the spices traditional to criollo cooking.  For the recipe given you can use bone-in pork chops or loin pork chops. Both will work well, but grilling time may vary.

For this recipe I decided to add grilled plum tomatoes. A good addition to to the meat, and all topped with a tasty vinaigrette.

CHULETAS A LA PARRILLA
(Grilled Pork Chops)

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon mustard (pref. Dijon)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
4 pork chops, about 2 1/2 pounds, 1-inch thick
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
4 plum tomatoes, halved
2 teaspoons olive oil

  1. Brush grill with vegetable oil. Preheat grill to medium-high.
  2. In a small bowl whisk together the olive oil, mustard, pepper,  and oregano. Stir in the capers and mix well.
  3.  Season pork chops with salt and pepper. Grill until just cooked through, 5-6 minutes per side.
  4. Meanwhile, brush plum tomatoes with olive oil. Grill, cut-side down until charred, about 2minutes. Turn and grill 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate.
  5.  Serve pork chops with tomatoes and topped with vinaigrette.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pork Chops Al Pastor

A dear friend from Florida recently sent me a publication that promotes the American pork industry. The publication, Pork Checkoff Report (Spring 2017), highlighted a recipe, Pork Chops al Pastor with Chipotle Marinade, that garnered my interest. I come from a Hispanic culture that consumes a lot of pork dishes. And, in my family, we favor cooking pork in cast-iron. So the recipe was a perfect follow-up to my last post (Cast-Iron Steak) which sings the praises of cast-iron cooking.The recipe is easy, no fuss, and delicious—the traits I admire most in any dish. Served with Mexican rice and slice avocados, it’s glorious .

For those who have never prepared Mexican rice, it’s very similar to its Caribbean counterpart. A quick preparation would entail: heating 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 cup washed and rinsed long grain rice. Cook the rice, stirring until it puffs up and becomes golden. While rice is cooking, sprinkle with 2 cloves garlic, minced; and 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin. Stir in one small onion, peeled and finely sliced into rings. Cook until the onion is tender. Stir in 1/2 cup tomato sauce and 1 1/2 cups chicken broth. Cover and simmer for 20-25 minutes until rice is done. Remove from heat, fluff with a fork, and serve. That’s it.

Note: the recipe serves two people, but you can double it for four servings (as I did).

PORK CHOPS AL PASTOR WITH CHIPOTLE MARINADE

2 bone in ribeye (rib) pork chops, 3/4 inch
3 tablespoons olive oil

CHIPOTLE MARINADE
1 white onion, halved
2 cups pineapple, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2 inch thick rounds
3 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1 teaspoon oregano, Mexican
1 teaspoon cumin
2 tablespoons canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

FOR CHIPOTLE MARINADE:
Combine all marinade ingredients in a large blender and puree until smooth.

In a large bowl, marinate pork chops with the marinade. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour.

Heat a large suate pan with olive oil to medium heat and saute pork chops unil golden, approximately 10-12 minutes (5-6 inches on each side), and chops reach an internal temeperature between 145 to 160 degrees F. (use a digital thermometer).

Serve with Mexican rice, sliced avocados and charred pineapple. 

Hungryman’s Special Stuffed Chops

I have a friend whose mother passed on; and while he was packing up her possessions, he came across a small, pocket cookbook, more like a pamphlet with, the title, Pork for Two. He gave the book to me, and I found it fascinating. The book, I think is from the 1950s (it has no copyright date). It was published by the National Pork Producers Council (Des Moines, Iowa), and is a compendium of pork dishes popular to that era. It has such gems as “Basic Frozen Pork Mixture” and “Fruit Glazed Butterfly Pork Chops.”   

A recipe from the book that intrigued me is “Hungryman’s Special Stuffed Chops.” Admittedly, I don’t have that much experience with stuffed pork chops. I’ve done stuffed fish, lamb, fowl, even steaks. But never chops. So, I figured, Give it a try. And the end product is delicious. Note that the booklet is geared toward two servings; but the recipe can be doubled, if desired. Also, the ingredients call for double-rib pork chops but, as I discovered, boneless loin chops are just as good. Another thing to note is that it includes canned mushrooms. You can use fresh button mushrooms; it works just as well.

       HUNGRYMAN’S SPECIAL STUFFED CHOPS

2 double-rib pork chops, cut 2-1/2 to 3-inches thick
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 can (3 ounces) chopped mushrooms, drained
1/4 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup herb seasoned stuffing
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth

Cut a pocket in each chop by cutting into center of chop from rib side, parallel to the bone and surface of chop. Sprinkle with rosemary, salt and pepper. In a medium skillet, melt butter. Cook onion in melted butter over moderate heat till onion is tender, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in mushrooms, stuffing, and 2 tablespoons wine. Stuff half the stuffing mixture into each chop. Pour 1/2 cup wine and broth over chops. Bake, covered, in a 350° F. oven till chops are done, about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours. Makes 2 servings.

Mofongo with Chicharron

Mofongo, I love the word. It’s pronounced just like it’s spelled. A popular Caribbean dish but undoubtedly of African origin. Basic mofongo is simply a mixture of crushed plantains with fried pork crackling served with a sauce. In the Puerto Rican version, we prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball which is served in a bowl. More modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish, or meal on its own.
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Pasteles (Part 1)

Pasteles are a singular creation made from common ingredients: root plants stuffed with meat. The meat is usually pork, but it can also be chicken or turkey. At home it’s prepared only on the most special occasions. When I returned home from Vietnam this was the first dish my mother made on honor of my arrival. If you’re traditional you have to use plantain leaves to wrap the thing. If they can’t be found, then wax paper will do. Plantain leaves are abundant in Caribbean and Asian markets. These days they come frozen wrapped in bundles of 12 or more. Believe me, there is a difference between pasteles made with plantain leaves and those wrapped in wax paper. 
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