When I was a kid I remember these old movies where the British upper classes would sit down for tea in some opulent parlor and have watercress sandwiches with their Earl Grey or Darjeeling. And I would ask myself “What the hell are watercress sandwiches?” In fact, “What’s a watercress?” It wasn’t until later on that I discovered the watercress plant to be a singular edible experience. Watercress is a perennial plant native to Europe and Asia; and is one of the oldest leaf vegetables consumed by the human family. So it’s been around for a while.  And it’s good for you. King Xerxes of ancient Persia fed it to his soldiers to improve their vigor. It was used by the English navy as a remedy for scurvy. It has a peppery, tangy flavor and is chock full of vitamin C, calcium and iron. It is also mentioned in the Talmud as an agent for stopping bleeding when mixed with vinegar, Not only that, a study conducted at the University of Southampton found that it may inhibit the growth of breast cancer.

Watercress sandwiches aside, it’s prevalent in soups and salads. But you can use it as a puree for roasts. And other ways in sandwiches as well: substitute watercress for the iceberg lettuce; add it to burgers with onions; top your grilled cheese with it—the possibilities are endless. The recipe given below is an easy way to use watercress: just a simple watercress-avocado salad with some olives thrown in.

WATERCRESS-AVOCADO SALAD

1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 bunches watercress, tough stems removed, chopped
1/2 cup parsley, chopped
1 avocado, peeled and cut into chunks
6-8 black pitted olives, halved

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. You can also use a jar or cruet: add ingredients and shake.
2. In a large bowl, add the watercress and parsley. Toss together with the dressing. Gently mix in the avocado and olives. Add more salt or pepper, if desired.
    Yield: 4 servings.

photo: courtesy of STALLS – Buckland Apple Day

One of the more esoteric forms of bianda, or root plants, that we use is our cooking are chayotes. So what are they? Well, a chayote is a pear-shaped tropical fruit whose flavor is akin to that of a cucumber. It is normally light green in color. It has a large pit and edible flesh and skin, though in Puerto Rican cooking we normally peeled the things before eating. It’s mild flavor lends itself to a variety of dishes. Even though it’s categorized as a fruit, we use it as a vegetable, that’s why it’s included in our root plant pantheon. The chayote has a variety of names depending upon the place and region. They are known as christophene or christophine, mirliton or merleton, Guatila, Centinerja, Pipinola, pear squash, guisquil, Cidra, chucha, choko, and even cho-cho. Chayotes, according to the experts, are either native to Mexico or Central America. Though it’s assume the word itself is a Spanish derivative of the Aztec word chayohtli (pronounced chah-yoh-tleel). And they are very popular throughout Latin America and the Caribbean.

In our cuisine, we prepare them peeled, boiled until tender, cut into chunks, and  serve with olive oil and vinegar. We also serve them in salads, as in the dish noted below, ensalada de tomate y chayote (tomato-chayote salad).

Where can you get these things? They are available in any Caribbean markets and most Asian markets. Better stocked fruit markets will also carry them. Most Americans don’t know about chayotes, and that’s a shame. They are great as appetizers, as a side dish for seafood, fowl or meat, and (as shown) in salads. Once you taste them, they will become a part of your repertoire. And, the recipe given below is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America.

ENSALADA DE TOMATE Y CHAYOTE
            (Tomato-Chayote Salad)

3 medium-sized chayotes, peeled and cut in half lengthwise
1 bunch watercress
2 cups cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1/4 cup ripe pitted olives, sliced in half

 Dressing:
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Place chayotes in a pot or saucepan with water to cover by one inch. Cook in boiling water until fork tender (5-7 minutes).
2. Drain, remove seeds and cut into bite-sized chunks.
3. Cut off and discards the tough stems of the watercress. Rinse under cold water and spin or pat dry.
4. In a bowl, combine chayotes, tomatoes, watercress and olives.
5. Combine dressing ingredients in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over salads. Toss and serve.
    Yield: 6 servings.

photo: courtesy of Specialty Produce

While I was doing research for my second cookbook (title: The Pharaoh’s Feast in the U.S.; and Feasting with the Ancestors in the UK), I came across some fascinating facts about ancient cooking. For instance, the ancient Romans had a dish that consisted of stuffed door mice That’s right, as in a mouse. The Babylonians loved wild pigeons. And the Egyptians of the dynastic era enjoyed figs, dates, and pomegranates, not only as desserts but throughout the meal. More enticing, they loved vegetables; especially strong tasting vegetables such as garlic and onions.  These, along with other vegetables, were often served as a salad with an oil and vinegar dressing. Thus, I came up with a simple green salad using vegetables ancient Egyptians may have enjoyed.

Let me add, my green salad for the ages is perfect as a summer dish for these hot, humid days. Add a crusty loaf of bread and a cold beer (the ancient Egyptians loved beer), and you have it made.

GREEN SALAD
(From Dynastic Egypt)

1 small bunch celery (about 3/4 pound)*
3 large ripe tomatoes, sliced into half-moons
2 medium-sized cucumbers, washed, scrubbed, and slice
1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil (extra-virgin is best)
Juice of half a lemon
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1. Wash celery under cold running water. Remove the root ends and leafy tops and cut the ribs into 1/2-inch pieces. Place in a bowl or on a platter.
2. Add the tomatoes, cucumbers, and onion. Toss to mix.
3. In a cup, combine the vinegar and olive oil. Add the lemon  juice, salt, and pepper. Stir and pour on the salad. Sprinkle with cumin and serve.
    Yield: 5 to 5 servings.

*Green beans can be substituted for the celery. In this case, take 1/2 pound of green beans, trimmed and broken into bite-sized pieces, and cook or steam until crisp-tender. Drain and rinse in cold water, mix with other ingredients, and add the dressing.

Photo: Courtesy of FineDiningLOVERS

 The hot, hazy, lazy days of summer call for salads. It’s only natural. Who wants to spend hours or even minutes slaving over a hot kitchen (even with air conditioning) when the humidity and temperature outside are sucky? The salad given below is called (giving a nod to the weather) a “tropical salad.” Why is is tropical? Simple; it contains fresh mangoes—and a splash or rum for vigor.

I like ripe fresh mangoes. I enjoy them as a snack, a dessert, and my favorite concoction: chunks of mango in a round champagne glass with sparkling champagne poured over the mango. It’s a scrumptious, sexy way to start the or end the evening. The recipe given does not contain champagne. It’s a typical salad for a hot summer day, and it’s from my second cookbook,  The Pharaoh’s Feast (Four Walls Eight Windows); also published in the UK as Feasting with the Ancestors (Sutton Publishing).

TROPICAL SALAD

1/2 bunch watercress
2 ounces fresh mango, peeled and cut julienne style into strips
2 ounces red onion, peeled and julienned into strips
2 ounces cucumber, peeled and julienned into strips
1 scallion, diced
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
4 tablespoons olive oil
Splash of  white rum
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fresh chopped mint

1. Rinse the watercress under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place in a salad bowl and add the remaining ingredients, tossing all together.
    Yield: 2 servings.

Photo: courtesy of Drizzle Oils