We all know about stuffed green peppers and, yes, stuffed eggplant. But what about stuffed tomatoes? Not many are aware of the versatility and deliciousness of a stuffed tomato. Here is a recipe that will get you going on that front. The stuffing includes bread crumbs and grated cheese topped with eggs; and all baked to perfection. The dish can be served as an appetizer or main course. An appetizer would be one serving per individual. A main course would be two servings.

STUFFED TOMATOES WITH EGGS

Ingredients:

4 large tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ onion,  peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
3 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried
Pinch of dried thyme or marjoram
¾ cup bread crumbs
4 eggs at room temperature
½ cup grated cheese

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2.  Heat olive in a pan or skillet and cook onion over medium-high heat until translucent.  Add garlic and cook  2 minutes more.
3.  Cut the top of the tomatoes at the stem end and scoop out the pulp.  Mix about 1/3 of the pulp with the onion, basil and seasonings.
4.  Add the bread crumbs and fill each tomato about half full. Drop an egg into each tomato, cover with grated cheese and arrange the filled tomatoes on a greased baking dish or individual baking dishes.  Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until the eggs are set to a firm softness and the tomatoes are soft but not collapsing.

This is my wife, Holly’s, Fried Green Tomatoes recipe. It’s her family recipe that she had frequently while growing up in Southern Indiana. It’s a hearty, simple no frills version that I’ve gown to love.  The only thing I’ve added is oregano; and I’ve combined olive oil, canola oil and butter for the frying rather than just frying it in Crisco as in the old days. It’s a basic dish of eggs, flour, salt and pepper. That’s it. And that’s another point on which Holly is adamant. In her family, it was always flour that was used for breading, not breadcrumbs or cornmeal or anything else.

The origins of fried green tomatoes have change since I first had it down south during my young manhood. It is now claimed that the dish is not southern in origin.  For example, the dish is mentioned in the International Jewish Cookbook by Florence Kreisler published in 1919. And there is a recipe for it in a 1902 cookbook, 365 Luncheon Dishes, published in Philadelphia. According to Robert A.  Moss, author of The Fried Green Tomato Swindle and Other Southern Culinary Adventures, the only Southern  mention of the recipe that he could find was from a 1944 Alabama newspaper. Southern dish or not,  it’s a great and unique dish. I mean, who would ever think of frying green tomatoes? A lot of folks, it seems.

Ingredients:

3 large green tomatoes, rinsed and wiped dry with paper towels
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup canola oi
3 tablespoons butter

Instructions:

1. Slice tomatoes ½-inch thick. Discard the ends.
2. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl. Pour the flour onto a plate, and season flour with salt, pepper and oregano.
3.  Dredge tomato slices in flour and then dip in egg mixture.
4.  In large skillet, combine olive oil, canola oil and butter. Heat over medium heat. Fry tomatoes in batches. Do not crowd tomatoes and they should not touch each other. Cook until browned on one side, 3-4 minutes. Flip and fry on the other side. Drain on paper towels.
   Yield: 4 servings.

I want to the local farmer’s market and I came across a species of mushroom I’m not familiar with: ouster mushrooms. Pleurotus ostreatus, also known as pearl oyster mushrooms and tree oyster mushrooms are very popular in Chinese, Japaneses and Korean cuisine. But what could I do with these suckers? Then I figured, mushrooms are mushrooms. So why not sauté them in olive oil with herbs and chicken broth? The same as I would do with button mushrooms?  Whether it’s wild mushrooms picked in the forest or  store-bought, the process is the same. And, you know what, it always works out.

The recipe given can work with whatever mushroom type you can get your hands on, whether it’s Shitake, Portobello, Crimini, you name it. Still,  I call it Wild mushroom Sauté. Also, you can serve it as a side dish or an entrée  over rice, couscous or quinoa. I served it over spaghetti.

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
4 cups mushrooms, rinsed, cleaned and sliced
1 tablespoon fresh chopped leaf thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon fresh chopped leaf oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried
½ cup chicken broth
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Heat oil in a medium saucepan or skillet, Add shallot and cook on medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, thyme and oregano. Sauté for 30 seconds.
2.  Add chicken broth. Season with salt and pepper. Lower heat, and simmer for 15 minutes or until mushrooms are softened.
   Yield: 2-3 servings
   

On Labor Day I did what most Americans do—which is heat up the old grill and have a barbecue. So, what else is new? With me, it was that I didn’t go the usual burgers and franks route. I decided this time around to grill portobello burgers. That’s right, portobellos, as in mushrooms. In fact, you could call these mushroom steak burgers.  A while back it was discovered that portobello mushroom have a great texture, like steak or meat, except they’re richer in flavor. So why not portobello burgers? Portobello mushrooms are big and meaty, just like a regular hamburger or steak.  That makes them perfect for the recipe given. It’s  meaty mushrooms marinated in a mix of mustard, vinegar, olive oil and garlic. Then grilled and stuffed with a separate mix of roasted red peppers, black olives and scallions. Add some mayonnaise combined fresh rosemary and you have a dish worthy of the gods (or family and friends). Believe me, meat eaters will love this dish; and so will anyone who wants something new, different and delicious on the grill.

PORTOBELLO  BURGERS

Ingredient:

4 large portobello mushrooms, stems removed
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon mustard (Dijon preferred)
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for scallions and hamburger buns
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
½ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried
½ cup canned or jarred roasted red peppers
½ cup medium pitted black olives, chopped
6 large scallions, bottoms trimmed
4 hamburger buns
4 slices cheese (cheddar or provolone)

Instructions:

1. Wash mushroom caps under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2.  Preheat grill to medium.
3.  In a small bowl, combine the garlic, mustard, vinegar, olive oil, and a hefty pinch of salt and pepper. Brush this marinade on both sides of the mushrooms. Transfer to a zip-lock bag along with the remaining marinade. Marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl combine the mayonnaise and rosemary, then season with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl combine the peppers and olives, and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
4.  Drizzle the scallions with a little bit of olive oil and then grill, turning often until they re charred at the edges and crisp tender, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer them to a cutting board and let cool slightly. Chop the scallions and add them to the bowl with the peppers and olives.
5.  Brush the hamburger buns with a little olive oil. Then grill until slightly toasted on both sides. Set aside.
6.  Grill the mushrooms, gill side down, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn them over and grill on the second side until tender when pierced with a knife or fork, another 3-4 minutes. Spoon a quarter of the olive-pepper mixture evenly on top of each mushroom. Top with a slice of cheese, cover the grill and cook until the cheese melts, 1-2 minutes.
7.  Spread the mayonnaise mixture on each hamburger bun. Top with mushrooms, and serve.
   Yield: 4 servings

Cabbage is what I term one of those funny vegetables. About the only time you’ll see it is when it’s stuffed with whatever meat you like or in sauerkraut.  You’ll seldom see it as a meal in itself or even as side dish.  I know that in Europe, boiled cabbage was a meal as a necessity, since it was cheap. But we’ve come along way from the shtetl (if you don’t know what I’m talking about, rent or stream the movie Fidler on the Roof). Be as it may, the dish given below brings cabbage to the fore. And the lowly vegetable finally gets top billing. It shines as an accompaniment to any main dish course.

Note that when purchasing cabbage, choose a crisp, firm, compact head of cabbage. Avoid any that show even a hint of yellow.

CABBAGE WITH SOUR CREAM AND NUTMEG

Ingredients:

2-pound head green cabbage
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups water
½ pint sour cream
Nutmeg, preferably freshly grated

Instructions:

1. Carefully remove and discard any loose outer eaves. Then cut off stem at the base flush with the bottom of the cabbage. With a large knife, cut the cabbage in half vertically; lay the halves, cut side down, on a chopping board. Cut each halve again in the same manner. Carefully cut away the top of the triangular core, being careful not to cut too deeply (it is imperative that you leave a small amount of core in each quarter to hold the leaves together). Place the quartered cabbage in a large colander and quickly run cold water over the quarters. Let them drain while you prepare the steamer.
2. Pour  2 cup water into a 5-quart pot and add cabbage, arranging them cut side up and sprinkle each quarter lightly with salt. Bring to a boil, cover pot,  lower to moderate heat and steam cabbage for 5 minutes.  Test for doneness you prefer by piercing a cabbage quarter with tip of small sharp knife. Steam the cabbage for another 2-3 minutes (securely recovering the  pot) if your prefer your cabbage less crisp. Ideally, it should not only be to the point where it retains a bit of firmness, but is also a glistening green color
3. With tongs, transfer the cabbage to a heated platter and top each quarter with about 2 tablespoons sour cream. Sprinkle the cream with a few gratings of fresh nutmeg and serve at once.
Yield: 4-6 servings.
Note: If cabbage is not young and tender, steam 7-8 minutes then test for doneness.

In 1940 a little known cookbook came out, Hors d’Oeuvre and Canapés, by the incomparable James Bard. Among its recipes was one for stuffed mushrooms. In 1940 American, stuffed mushrooms were an oddity. To most it must have seemed totally alien. Today, stuffed mushrooms are everywhere.  Yes, we have come along way. Below is my recipe for this venerable dish. I like to serve them with tostones, or deep-fried plantains, as a meal in itself, not just an appetizer. For a good tostones recipe see my post of 10/16/16.

For the recipe given you can used portobello or white button mushrooms. Most recipes call for baby mushrooms for stuffing. I did a combination of portobello and white, and not all were baby mushrooms. So I ended up with some large stuffed mushrooms. It still came out alright.

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
12 mushrooms or more, depending on how many people to feed
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
¼ cup breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
1 tablespoon freshly chopped thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Wash mushrooms under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Remove stems from mushrooms and chop stems. Set aside.
3. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add chopped mushroom stems and cook until most of the moisture is out, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the breadcrumbs to bind them, 3 minutes.  Add wine and let it cook until it almost evaporates. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and let cool slightly
4. In a large bowl, mix together mushroom stem mixture, cream cheese, parsley and thyme. Fill mushroom caps with filling and place in a baking pan or dish. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and bake until mushrooms are soft and tops are golden, about twenty minutes.

Once in a while I have to go back to classical French cooking. I was not trained in French cuisine. I am a gourmand not a gourmet. What I learned from cooking, I did from experience, coming from a Latino culture where good food and drink is paramount. So, I enjoy dabbling in the French cannon with its rich sauces and elegant inspired creations. Within this vein, one of my favorite dishes is eggplant au gratin. I love this eggplant and mushroom combination replete with cream and butter and delicate spices. This is a special dish for a special occasion. Oh, what the hell, for any occasion where you want something out of the ordinary. During this time of pandemic, what better way to affirm the joy of living and eating well.

Note that for this dish, you can use whatever mushroom desired. I use a combination of white button mushrooms and portobello. But I’m sure the dish will go well with shiitaki, crimini, chanterelle, porcini, whatever. I do insist on fresh mushrooms. This time around the canned variety just won’t cut it. I’m not being elitist, just practical.

EGGPLANT AU GRATIN

Ingredients:

1 pound eggplant
Salt to taste
½ pound fresh mushrooms
Juice of ½ lemon
1½ tablespoons flour
½ cup milk
¼ cup heavy cream
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Few drops of Tabasco Sauce
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
3 Tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 425º.
2.  Peel eggplant and cut into 1-inch cubes, more or less. Drop cubes into boiling salted water and cook about 5 minutes or just until done. Drain well.
3.  Meanwhile, slice mushrooms. You should have about 3 cups. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add mushroom slices. Sprinkle with salt and about 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Cook, stirring, until wilted and juices come out. Continue cooking until liquid evaporates. Set aide.
4.  Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in a large saucepan. Add flour, stirring with wire whisk. Add milk and cream, stirring rapidly with whisk. When blended and smooth, add salt and pepper to taste, remaining lemon juice, nutmeg and Tabasco to taste. Stir in mushrooms and eggplant. Stir in egg. Spoon mixture into baking dish (preferably 8X10″ pie plate or cast-iron). Sprinkle with a mixture of bread crumbs and cheese. Dot with tablespoon butter.
5.  Bake for 30-40 minutes, and then brown under broiler for a couple of minutes.
   Yield: 4-6 servings.

This dish is nothing more than lightly boiled spinach seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. But once you taste it, you”ll think it’s manna from heaven. The recipe is from my second cookbook,  The Pharaoh’s Feast (Four Walls Eight Windows). Published in the UK under the title, Feasting with the Ancestors. The title says it all. It’s a compendium of cooking throughout the ages and how it changed our world view. 110 simple recipes starting from the dawn of time to the present. The Arabic section of the book is particularly interesting. While in medieval times, western man was dining on rancid mutton and half cooked vegetables, in  the Persian Empire they were dining on truffles from the Arabian Desert, cakes from Egypt, steamed couscous from Baghdad, and savories cooked with spices from India and China

Throughout this time, one gourmet reigns supreme, al-Baghdadi (the whole name is Muhammad ibn al-Hassan ibn Muhammad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi).  His cookbook, dating from the 13th century, defined Persian cooking.  The problem with al-Baghdadi is that his recipes are, by and large, highly complex in terms of the spices used. There are recipes which include sumac, taro, murri, and coriander juice.  So, it was great to come across this offering which doesn’t go to town with numerous ingredients and cooking techniques.  al-Baghdadi  put this dish under the heading of “relishes.”  It’s simple and delicious. For a vegetarian, this is the best dish you’ll have. And if you’re not a vegetarian,  you”ll savor it just as much.

My friends, eat like your a sultan tonight. The accompaniment to this dish is rice or couscous. I served it with pilaf rice. But whatever side dish you use, this simple spinach dish will be unforgettable.

ISFANAKH MUTAJAN

Ingredients:

2 to 2½ pounds spinach, stems removed, washed, drained, and chopped
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Instructions:

1. Parboil the spinach for 1 to 2 minutes in a large pan of boiling salted water. Drain and squeeze dry.
2.  Stir in the sesame oil, add the garlic, and mix.
3.  Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with the cumin, coriander, and stir to mix.
4.  Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve.
   Yield: 4 servings.