Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Category: vegetables (page 14 of 14)

Domplines – Puerto Rican Dumplings

Almost every culture has dumplings as a staple. Usually, the dumplings are stuffed with some savory ingredient or other. In our culture we have domplines (pronounced “dom-plee-ness), which are our version of dumplings, except, they are not stuffed. It’s more like deep friend dough, which is a common staple in the Caribbean. Other places have it such as in Indian cuisine where they deep fry the dough and call it poori.

In our family, domplines have been with us forever. I remember my grandmother making them for breakfast with eggs, or at lunch or dinner with codfish. They are deceptively easy to make, and quite tasty. Given below is the basic recipe for domplines. If you want to liven up the recipe even more, you can add one or two minced cloves of garlic to the dough. This will give it an extra tang (if desired).The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group: Running Press).

DOMPLINES (Puerto Rican style dumplings)

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Combine flour, baking powder and butter in a bowl.
2.Add salt to water and add to flour, a bit at a time, while mixing with a wooden spoon until it forms a doughy consistency.
3. Remove this dough to a lightly floured surface and knead continuously with hands until soft.
4. Form kneaded dough into a horseshoe shape and set aside.
5. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil (usually about an inch). Heat until oil is very hot. Break off a small piece of dough and shape into a flat round patty. Drop patty into skillet and stir-fry until golden (about 5 minutes). Repeat until dough is all gone. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.
    Yield: about 20 dumplings
Note: If a little color is desired, you can add 1/2 teaspoon of  ground turmeric to the flour during the first step. This will render truly golden-yellow dumplings.

Buran – Eggplant/Lamb Recipe from the 13th century Arab World

In these perilous times, in this part of the world, what we hear about Islam and Muslims in general is rather negative. And yes, it’s understandable, given the wars we are in. But does anyone realize that, at one time, the tables were turned and while Europe was in the throes of its dark ages, the Islamic world was at the height in terms of science, culture, and government? Not only that, while Medieval western man was dining on rancid meat, in the Arab world, they were dining on savories cooked with spices from China and India and exotic fruit from Central Asia. In the West they subsisted on salted pork, roots plants and fermented ale, if they were lucky. In the Arab world they were using rosewater in their cooking and enjoying truffles from the Arabian Desert.

One of the earliest cookbooks comes from this period. It dates from the 13th century, and its author is a famed gourmet of the time, al-Baghdadi (his whole name is Muhammad ibn al-Hassan Ibn Muhahad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi). His recipes reflect the times: they are full of spices from the East and are replete with frying, mincing, boiling, staining and stewing, usually all in one pot. Al-Baghdadi’s masterworks are lamb recipes. He cooks lamb with rice, with chickpeas, even with noodles. But the recipe given, Buran (my favorite) is simply lamb kabobs  served with friend and mashed eggplant.

So, tonight, imagine you’re in the court of the Caliphs, you’re the prince or princess of Persia and you’re dining on Buran, a gastronomic Arab delight.

BURAN

1 medium eggplant, about 1 1/2 pounds, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch slices
1 pound ground lamb
1/4 cup sesame oil
1/2 cup vegetable oil
Salt to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Cook the eggplant in boiling salted water for 5 to 6 minutes. Drain and let stand at least 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, use wet and oily hands to shape the lamb into small meatballs (about 20 to 30 kabobs). Heat the sesame oil in a large skillet and fry the meatballs over medium-high heat until well browned (about 10 minutes). Cover with water, bring heat to low and simmer until most of the water has evaporated and only some of the oil is left. Set aside and reserve.
3. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet (or use the same skillet from before), and fry the eggplant over medium heat until golden on both sides. The frying may be done in several batches with more oil being added as needed. Place the eggplant in a bowl and mash with a ladle or large spoon. Add salt, coriander, yogurt, garlic, and mix well.
4. Transfer the eggplant to a serving dish, arrange the meatballs on top, sprinkle with cumin and cinnamon, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Eggplant Parmesan/Provencal

Back in Spanish Harlem, in our family’s repertoire, one of the standby dishes was Eggplant Parmesan. Although we didn’t call it that. We are vociferous eggplant eaters, and the dish was just another version which we knew as eggplant Italian style because we added grated cheese. To us, back then,  any dish that had Parmesan cheese in it was considered Italian; just like any dish that had soy sauce was considered Chinese. It was the innocence of the meat and potato days of yore.

What made our version delectable is that it contained crispy friend eggplant, which we loved. Add a little tomato sauce, grated Parmesan, some good crusty bread and you has a great meal. Later in life, I discovered the French Eggplant Provencal, which was the same damn thing minus the cheese. You just add some capers to it and baked the eggplant instead of frying. Also, to the French, Eggplant Provencal is normally served as an appetizer. Whichever method you use, if you’re an eggplant lover, you’ll savor the meal. And, even if you don’t like eggplant, you just might change your mind.

EGGPLANT PARMESAN

1 medium-sized eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup olive oil or vegetable oil (or more for frying)
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce, heated

1. Blend flour, salt, pepper  and oregano on a plate or piece of wax paper and coat each eggplant slice well with mixture.
2. Heat half of the olive oil in a heavy skillet, and fry as many slices of eggplant as can be accommodated without crowding until crisp and brown on both sides. Transfer slices to a shallow heat-proof platter or pie plate, and keep warm.
3. Add remaining oil to skillet and brown rest of eggplant slices. Sprinkle half of browned eggplant in platter with a tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese. Add remaining slices and second tablespoon of cheese.
4. Pour hot sauce over and around eggplant. Sprinkle with remaining cheese, place under a hot broiler from 3 to 4 minutes, and broil briefly until cheese melts and is slightly brown.

EGGPLANT PROVENCAL

1 medium-sized eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
1 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground  black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 cup capers

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Dip eggplant slices in olive oil, and arrange on a flat baking pan or dish (I prefer cast-iron). Bake 10-15 minutes or until tender.
 3. Crush garlic and brown lightly in a little olive oil in a small saucepan. Add tomato sauce and cook until hot. Remove from heat and season with salt, pepper and oregano.
4. Pour sauce over eggplant, sprinkle with capers and serve hot or cold.

For both recipes the yield is about 4 servings.

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Stuffed Plantain Balls

I love plantains, especially green plantain, the type that we prepare in fritters called tostones. But you also have ripe plantains; essentially green plantains that have ripened to a deep, dark yellowish color. Some people prefer the ripe plantain since they give a sweeter flavor. In my family we prefer tostones. Although once in a while we cook ripe plantains with eggs for breakfast; or in a traditional dish called pinon (pronounced peen-yon) , a layered casserole of ripe plantains, beef and kidney beans.

Another of our favorite uses of ripe plantains is cheese-stuffed plantain balls. Think of it as fallafel balls but with cheese inside and a luscious, sweet exterior. Believe me, once you’ve had these plantain balls, you’ll be hooked. They can be served as an appetizer or as a main entree accompanied by rice—a perfect vegan dish.

CHEESE-STUFFED PLANTAIN BALLS

6 ripe plantains, unpeeled and cut in half widthwise
8 cups water
Salt to taste
1/4 cup butter
2 tablespoons cornstarch plus cornstarch for shaping balls
1/2 pound cheddar cheese, shredded
Oil for deep frying (vegetable oil, corn oil, canola oil, olive oil, etc.)

1. Drop the plantain halves into boiling salted water and cover. Cook rapidly for 20 minutes. Drain. Peel the plantains and mush the pulp. Add the butter and 2 tablespoons cornstarch and mix well. Let cool enough to handle.
2. To shape the balls, coat the palms of the hands with cornstarch. Pick up about 1 tablespoon of the pulp (or 1 teaspoon, depending on the size desired) and flatten slightly between the palms. Add a portion of the cheese and mold the plantain around it, shaping the whole into a ball. Repeat until all the balls are formed. Be aware that you can make the balls as large or as small as you desire. In the Rivera family we like big plantain balls. Other folk may prefer smaller variations similar to Swedish-type meatballs.
3. Heat the oil for deep frying. Drop the balls into the oil and cook until golden. Remove and drain on paper towels.
    Yield: 8 to 12 balls, depending on size.

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Pumpkin Gratin


Halloween is upon us yet again. And the jack-o-lanterns are out. Anybody ever consider cooking those suckers? I would not recommend it. The traditional pumpkin used as a jack-o-lantern motif makes for a flavorless, insipid dish. That’s why they are used for decorations. In my culture, pumpkin are prized as bianda or cooked root plants that we use to enhance a meal. Traditionally, our favorite pumpkin dish is very simple: slice a piece of pumpkin, peel, remove seeds, and boil until tender. Then serve with olive oil and vinegar.

But I’ve experimented with pumpkin dishes and found that they make a great gratin. A gratin (pronounced grah-tan) comes from French cooking. It is a dish prepared with a brown crust. My pumpkin gratin is quick and easy to make, and it’s tasty to boot. Again, use small available commercial pumpkin, not the Halloween type or, better yet, you can use winter squash or butternut squash.

So, here goes Le gratin de Courge, as our French brethren would say. It makes a fabulous side dish or accompaniment to any meal.

PUMPKIN GRATIN

2 to 2 1/2 pound pumpkin, butternut, or other winter squash, halved, seeded, peeled, and cut
into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup flour
1/3 cup olive oil
8 garlic cloves (yes, 8), finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano (or pinch dried)

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
2. Toss the pumpkin or squash cubes in the flour until they are evenly coated.
3. Generously oil the bottom and sides of an ovenproof casserole, Dutch oven, or cast-iron pan (you will have some oil left over). Fill the casserole with the pumpkin or squash. Then scatter the garlic and parsley over it, and season with salt, pepper, and oregano. Sprinkle the remaining oil over the pumpkin or squash.
4. Place in oven and bake for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until the top has formed a rich dark crust. Note that it’s not necessary to add water during cooking since the pumpkin or squash produces enough liquid on its own.
Yield: 4 servings.

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Colcannon for Saint Paddy’s Day


Saint Patrick’s Day is here again. According to legend, Saint Patrick drove all the snakes out of Ireland. My father use to say use that, after hoisting a few drinks, all the snakes came back. Be it as it may, it’s time for festivity, joy, green beer, green hats and all that goes with this glorious holiday, at least on this side of the pond.

The traditional dish for Saint Paddy’s day is, of course, corned beef and cabbage. However, there is another Irish treat that I myself am partial to: Colcannon. This is a country dish that’s right up there with Irish stew and Irish soda bread; and it can be served on Saint Paddy’s day or any other day of the year. It’s a homey, delicious dish. Some would call it mashed potatoes plus. But that doesn’t do it justice. It’s far tastier and richer than ordinary mash potatoes. It goes great with a few rashes of Irish bacon or a few slices of smoked ham. Add a pint, and you’re in heaven.

COLCANNON

8 large mealy potatoes
8 small white onions, peeled
3 scallions, washed and trimmed
1 cup half and half milk
1 1/2 cups boiled, chopped Savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons melted butter
Pinch of grated or ground nutmeg
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Boil potatoes, peel and mash. Place in a large bowl and set aside.
2. Put the half and half in a small pan or skillet. Add onions and scallions and cook over medium-low heat until tender. Strain, reserving liquid. Mince onions and scallions.
3. Add the onions, scallions, and the half and half liquid to the potatoes. Mix well and whip until fluffy. Add more half and half milk if needed. Stir in all other ingredients and blend well.
Yield: 6 servings.

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Prized Eggplant


Eggplant is one of those things that you love or hate. Either you like it or you don’t. I’m in the former category. I love eggplant; mainly for its versatility. It can be boiled, fried, baked, grilled, whatever. Most people just dip it in bread creams or flour and fry it, using egg yolks as a binder. One of the easiest way to prepare it, I’ve discovered, is to layer slices of eggplant and tomatoes in a casserole. Then pour sour cream over the layers and bake. Easy, quick and delish.

But my all time favorite eggplant dish is the one listed below. This recipe was given to me 100 years ago by an old friend. Where she got it from I don’t know. It could have been a family recipe, maybe not. All I know is that it’s the most delicious eggplant preparation I’ve ever taste. It can be served an an appetizer or an entree as is. Or you can serve it with rice. It’s Moroccan so I assume it’s got a long pedigree, and it uses items such as cilantro and cumin. And it’s a great vegetarian dish for all you vegans out there.

MOROCCAN EGGPLANT

2 eggplants (approximately 1 pound each)
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 small piece of fresh ginger (about 1-inch long), minced
1 teaspoon fresh hot pepper, minced
5 cups tightly packed cilantro leaves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste
2 lemons, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Prick the eggplant several times with a fork, and rub the skin of each thoroughly with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
2. Bake on oven rack for about 1 hour, or until soft. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
3. Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, process 3 tablespoons of olive oil with garlic, ginger, and hot pepper until smooth. Continue processing while adding cilantro leaves, lemon juice,cumin, salt, and the remaining olive oil. Process until smooth.
4. With a pairing knife, peel the skin from each eggplant, starting from the stem end and pulling the skin downward, leaving the stem attached. Starting just below the stem and moving down, slice peeled eggplant lengthwise into three strips. (Keep attached to stem.) Lay eggplants on a platter and slightly fan out the three sections. Spoon cilantro sauce over fleshy part of eggplant. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Yield: 4 servings.

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Mushrooms Make You Feel…Good


I am a mushroom lover. Have been since I was a kid. There’s something about their earthy flavor that just grabs me. Mushrooms have been around since antiquity. Depending on your source, there are anywhere from 10,000 to 38,000 types of mushrooms. Only about 3,000 are edible.

The ancient Chinese, Greeks and Romans loved mushrooms. Sometimes with fatal consequences. As was the case with the Roman Emperor Claudius. In Ancient Rome, when an emperor died they would automatically declare him a god and put him in their pantheon of deities. Well, old Claudius, at a banquet was fed some poisonous mushrooms. The minute he tasted them he knew something was up. So he rose and addressed the assembled audience, declaring, “I think I am becoming a god”—and keeled over.
As you can tell, some varieties can be deadly: such as the famous “toadstools of the amanita genus, commonly known as amanita phalloides or “death cap.” Other varieties can be used for medicinal purposes, inclusive of the reishi, which is highly prized in Chinese medicine. And some can give you a trip, literally, such as the psilocybin mushrooms, which are hallucinogenic. Of course, these are illegal.

But we know mushrooms mainly for their dining pleasure. Today, apart from the white button mushrooms of my youth, there are numerous gourmet types such as enoki, crimini, porcini (often used in soups and sauces), oyster mushrooms (known to reduce cholesterol), chantarelle, shitaki, portobello, and , of course, the ultimate fungi, truffles—which can cost you anywhere from $130 to $390 per pound for black truffles, and $1350 to $2700 per pound for the white variety.

The best way to cook mushrooms, I’ve discovered, is the old Roman method: sliced and sauteed in olive oil with slivers of garlic. But for you adventurous types, below is a perfect dish for summer: portobello mushroom sandwiches.

And, no, you don’t need truffles for this. But be aware that you’ll need large portobello mushroom caps. Done right, they taste like a steak.

BASIC PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM SANDWICH

2 large portobello mushrooms, washed, cleaned and stemmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 slices (about 1 ounce each) mozzarella or Swiss cheese
2 bagels or sesame seed buns, toasted
Oregano to taste

1. In a medium skillet heat the olive oil.
2. Add portobellos, stem face down, and cook for approximately two minutes. Note that the cooking time will vary depending on size or thickness of mushrooms.
3. Turn mushrooms over, add slices of cheese on top, and cook 2 minutes more or until cheese melts.
4. Sprinkle with oregano and serve on toasted bagel or bun.
Yield: 2 servings.

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The Plantain Wars

In my first posting I included a recipe for fried plantains, or tostones. Actually, it was my first recipe on this blog. Other recipes have followed. As noted, in my other avocation, I teach martial arts at the Chinese Kung-Fu Wu-Su Association (www.kingfu-wusu.com). Well, one of my fellows at the association, 2nd Degree Instructor Tyree Grant, and a rising star within the Association, commented to me yesterday on the recipe. He wasn’t too enthused about it. Not that it wasn’t a good recipe, only that he had expected a recipe on sweet plantains, to which he and his family are partial. And this brought up one of the age-old arguments that has befuddled Caribbean cuisine. Think of other controversies regarding food: like the argument over creamy peanut butter as opposed to chunky style (I prefer the chunky version); or white rice over brown rice which is supposedly more nutritious (I still prefer white rice simply because I was brought up with it); or home fries vs. french fries (I prefer home fries); or even whether red wine should always be served with meat. I have found delicious reds (gamay, bardolino, valpolicella, etc.) that go well with fish. So there.
It all depends on individual preference. No one is right, and no one is wrong. I, myself, prefer green plantains in the tostones mold. In my family, when I was growing up in Spanish Harlem, we only had sweet plantains for breakfast, with eggs, sausages and ham. Green plantains were served for lunch and dinner. In the Caribbean islands, from my experience, that is still the norm. I cannot speak for Central and Latin America, although I know plantains are also prepared in their cuisine.
See, this is the way it goes. A plantain is a tropical perennial herb (Musa paradisiaca) which renders an edible, bananalike fruit. But it is not a banana. The plantain (Platano in Spanish) comes out in its raw state as a bright green color. As it ripens it turns yellowish; and when it’s really ripe and on the verge of rotting, it becomes a dark, almost black in texture. Aficionados of ripe plantains like it because it’s sweet. Fried green plantains don’t have a sweet taste. I cannot explain the flavor; simply that it’s an acquired taste. But once you had a tostone, with a little salt and a drizzle of olive oil, you’ll come back for more. That’s guaranteed. On my last trip to Puerto Rico I noticed that some restaurants started serving tostones with french dressing. What’s that all about? It’s like in France where they serve french fries with mayonnaise. I guess the more adventurous culinary cultures, with time, modify almost any dish.
Let me state that plantains today can be found most anywhere. Most supermarkets do carry them. I have found plantains even in the north country of Vermont. Traditionally, any Hispanic or ethnic market carries them.
Anyway, for all you iconoclasts (I love them $20 words) below is a recipe for sweet ripe plantains (Platanos Amarillos). It’s simple, no-nonsense, and tasty (if you like sweet stuff). So, Tyree, my brother-in-training, here’s the recipe I promised to you and to all those who savor platanos. And just to show that I can be magnanimous (another $20 word) and hold no grudges, I’ve included two ways of making ripe plantains. One involves boiling for the more health conscious; and the other is the traditional fried method.

PLANTANOS AMARILLOS (Sweet Ripe Plantains)

Method I:
3 ripe plantains

1. Take 3 ripe plantains and cut in half crosswise at a slant.
2. Boil in water (combined with 1 tablespoon salt) until tender (about 4-5 minutes).
3. Drain and let cool. Cut a slit along the length of the halves and peel. Cut into diagonal slices 1 to 2 inches thick and serve.
Yield: 12 to 15 pieces.

Method II:
3 ripe plantains
Vegetable oil for frying (can use extra virgin olive oil, if desired)

1. Peel 3 ripe plantains. Cut into diagonal slices about 1/2-inch thick and 3 inches long.
2. Deep-fry in hot oil until slightly browned and tender (about 3-4 minutes). Drain on paper towels.
Yield: 12-18 pieces.

Friends, that’s it for now. So, until the next time, hang by your thumbs and write if you get work (with credits to Bob and Ray).

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