Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

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IN MEMORIAM: VINCENT VAN ZANDT

May 11, 2020 / / 2 Comments

In Memoriam:

Vincent Van Zandt

No post on recipes or drink. This is more personal, and more timely.

Vincent Van Zandt was my student. I called him one of My Tigers (the other being Reggie Zephyrin). Vinnie and I went back a long time. I remember when he first entered the Tuesday/Thursday class at Alan Lee’s Chinese Kung-Fu Wu-Su Association. What struck me about Vinnie was how knowledgeable he was about Kung Fu and the martial arts in general. This was someone who had thoroughly researched the topic before he committed to the training. I found this both satisfying and endearing.

When Vinnie joined the school (which we refer to as The Temple), back in the 90s, it was a different scene back then. We were just transitioning to a new outlook and new way of thinking. When I first joined the Temple in 1973, it was a whole different school. As fellow Masters Robert Thomas and Paul Johnson will affirm, it was another universe. Honestly, it was mainly comprised of kids from the ghetto, be it New York or Newark, where we had our Jersey school. We just wanted to learn how to fight, and termed it self-defense. It was a tough bunch. At that time we were not interested in learning the Health/Life aspects of the system; such things as meditation, concentration, breathing exercises for longevity training. We had some exercises, like 8 Silk Weaving, an exercise meant to strengthen the internal organs, but that was about it. Grandmaster Lee did not, as he does now, give extensive Chi-Kung/Qi Gong lessons. Those came later.

Vinnie and his fellows were the vanguard of the new group geared toward a more holistic system. And in this Vinnie excelled. Not only was he a good fighter on the floor who, being a little guy, could still hold his own against anyone. More than that, he was a thinking man’s fighter. Those come only once in a generation. That’s why immediately I focused on him and Reggie, from the same group. Reggie was, and is, the lethal artist. He can be a tiger, or a crane. His movements are fluid and flowing, but when he strikes home you feel it if you are on the receiving end. Vinnie was the one who sought out the weak spots, who compensated brute force for definite pin-point accuracy. And his mind soaked up martial knowledge like a sponge. He would come across some technique in a book, or journal, or some arcane missive or even an old Kung-Fu movie and he would incorporate it into his training, meshing it with our own system.

When Master Lee gave his lectures on the Sunday of each month, you couldn’t miss it when Vinnie would pepper the Grandmaster with some question or theory as to the art. And the Grandmaster would respond diligently, carefully, while we all listened. Later I would ask Vinnie, “Where did you get that?” And he would reply, almost nonchalantly, “Oh, I just came across this old book, and it reminded me of something Mr. Lee had said.” And he was so unassuming in his response. And I would go back and start researching the stuff myself.

That’s what I will miss about Vinnie. That inquisitive mind.

I must also mention that Vinnie was a loner. We knew he worked as a case worker, and he would check out other martial arts venues be it Karate, Kung-Fu or other, but he was not the rah-rah well-met hail fellow type. He could keep his distance. We knew he had a brother and sister. The brother came to our demonstrations a couple of times. I do recall he also came with Vinnie to one of our Temple dinners. I remember him as a true gentlemen, well-informed and polite. We never saw his sister at the Temple, thus I cannot comment on her perspective. But we know she was the one who found Vinnie at his place when he had passed on.

And this is another thing about Vinnie. His humanity. As has been told to us, Vinnie took his job seriously, and to heart. He kept seeing his clients, even at the height of this pandemic, regarding them before himself. He became ill during this time. Whether it was from Covid-19 or something else, we cannot be sure. We do not know. But we know that his supervisor told him go home and rest.  Which he did. Yet it was like Vinnie to consider others before himself. That was the type of man that he was.

We at the school are grieving. Vinnie is the first death the Temple has had at this time.   And from Master Lee on down, we feel it acutely. One death is too many. But when we lose someone of Vinnie’s caliber, it hurts, and it hurts a lot.

To Vinnie’s family we send our deepest condolences. For ourselves, we mourn.

I can only say, Goodbye, my brother, one of my tigers. We shall meet again in the hereafter, and we shall compare notes and techniques again, and laugh when it works, and laugh when it doesn’t.

Till then, you’ll be forever in our thoughts. And you will be with us till the end of time.

Oswald Rivera

SOPA DE HABICHUELAS CON SALCHICHA (BEAN AND SAUSAGE STEW)

May 11, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Due to the Covid-19 virus we have stocked up on beans. By that, I mean the dried variety. The are cheap, still plentiful and a healthy food source. Thus we’re always on the lookout for a creative way to use legumes (fancy name for beans). In this effort, beans and sausage are incorporated into a stew. For the dish I used white Northern beans. But you can also try it with red beans, black beans, chickpeas (garbanzos), black eye peas, and lentils. It s a multi-task recipe. Add a good crusty loaf of bread and some dry red or white wine to wash it down, and you have an unforgettable meal.

For a Nuyorican meal one would use the spicy chorizo sausage so beloved in our culture. But you’re not limited. You can use whatever sausage you prefer, be it sweet Italian sausage, French Andoille, kielbasa, even turkey or  chicken sausage. Holly and I came across a wild mushroom sausage with Italian herbs. It peaked our interest.  And you know what? It came out scrumptious. So if you come across something unique, don’t be afraid to experiment. That’s what cooking’s all about.

Let me add that you can use canned beans, if that’s what you want. The recipe won’t take as long but, honestly, it won’t taste the same; and it’ll be a whole different recipe. If you’re using the carrots, you may have to parboil them before adding them to the cooked sausage, along with  the canned beans (and their liquid). And you may have to add more liquid for the soup content. Lots of luck.

SOPA DE HABICHUELAS CON SALCHICHA
(Bean and Sausage Stew)

Ingredients:

2 table spoons olive oil
1 pound sausage, sliced ¾-inch thick
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 medium carrots, diced
1 onion, peeled and sliced into rings
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 pound dried Great Northern  beans, rinsed and picked through
Salt taste
3 sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
2 large rosemary sprigs or ½ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper or more to taste

Instructions:

1. Heat oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add sausage and brown until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate, and set aside.
2. Add the tomato paste and cumin to the pot. Cook, stirring, until dark golden, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, onion and garlic. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables had softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the beans, 8 cups water, salt, thyme, rosemary and bay leaf. Turn the heat up to high and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to low and simmer gently until the beans are tender, about 2 hours. Stir in the vinegar and pepper. Ladle into warm serving bowls and served drizzle with additional vinegar and olive oil, if desired.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

 

 

 

HERBED PORK CHOPS

May 3, 2020 / / 0 Comments

This is the easiest  pork chop recipe I know. Preparation is quick. It’s the braising/steaming factor that takes time, about 45  minutes. In the interim you can be busy making a side dish such as rice or potatoes, or a vegetable. Once it’s done, you’ll love it. Also, this recipe is healthier, no deep frying or roasting in oil or fats.

I’m sure you can also prepared this dish with lamb chops, if that is your desire. Either way, it’s a winner.

HERBED PORK CHOPS

Ingredients:

4 loin pork chops, about 1-inch thick
1 tablespoon fresh chopped sage or 1 teaspoon dried
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup water
½ cup dry white wine

Instructions:

1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a small cup, saucer plate, or cutting board, mix rosemary, sage, garlic, salt and pepper. Rub the pork chops thoroughly with the mixture.
3. Place the chops in a large greased skillet, add the water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer on medium-low heat until all the water has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Remove the cover and brown chops in their own fat.
4. Add the wine and cook about 1 minute, turning the chops occasionally. The wine should be almost evaporated before serving.
Yield:  servings.

 

 

 

EGGPLANT AU GRATIN

May 2, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Once in a while I have to go back to classical French cooking. I was not trained in French cuisine. I am a gourmand not a gourmet. What I learned from cooking, I did from experience, coming from a Latino culture where good food and drink is paramount. So, I enjoy dabbling in the French cannon with its rich sauces and elegant inspired creations. Within this vein, one of my favorite dishes is eggplant au gratin. I love this eggplant and mushroom combination replete with cream and butter and delicate spices. This is a special dish for a special occasion. Oh, what the hell, for any occasion where you want something out of the ordinary. During this time of pandemic, what better way to affirm the joy of living and eating well.

Note that for this dish, you can use whatever mushroom desired. I use a combination of white button mushrooms and portobello. But I’m sure the dish will go well with shiitaki, crimini, chanterelle, porcini, whatever. I do insist on fresh mushrooms. This time around the canned variety just won’t cut it. I’m not being elitist, just practical.

EGGPLANT AU GRATIN

Ingredients:

1 pound eggplant
Salt to taste
½ pound fresh mushrooms
Juice of ½ lemon
1½ tablespoons flour
½ cup milk
¼ cup heavy cream
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Few drops of Tabasco Sauce
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
3 Tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 425º.
  2.  Peel eggplant and cut into 1-inch cubes, more or less. Drop cubes into boiling salted water and cook about 5 minutes or just until done. Drain well.
  3.  Meanwhile, slice mushrooms. You should have about 3 cups. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add mushroom slices. Sprinkle with salt and about 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Cook, stirring, until wilted and juices come out. Continue cooking until liquid evaporates. Set aide.
  4.  Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in a large saucepan. Add flour, stirring with wire whisk. Add milk and cream, stirring rapidly with whisk. When blended and smooth, add salt and pepper to taste, remaining lemon juice, nutmeg and Tabasco to taste. Stir in mushrooms and eggplant. Stir in egg. Spoon mixture into baking dish (preferably 8X10″ pie plate or cast-iron). Sprinkle with a mixture of bread crumbs and cheese. Dot with tablespoon butter.
  5.  Bake for 30-40 minutes, and then brown under broiler for a couple of minutes.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

ISFANAKH MUTAJAN

April 28, 2020 / / 0 Comments

This dish is nothing more than lightly boiled spinach seasoned with sesame oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. But once you taste it, you”ll think it’s manna from heaven. The recipe is from my second cookbook,  The Pharaoh’s Feast (Four Walls Eight Windows). Published in the UK under the title, Feasting with the Ancestors. The title says it all. It’s a compendium of cooking throughout the ages and how it changed our world view. 110 simple recipes starting from the dawn of time to the present. The Arabic section of the book is particularly interesting. While in medieval times, western man was dining on rancid mutton and half cooked vegetables, in  the Persian Empire they were dining on truffles from the Arabian Desert, cakes from Egypt, steamed couscous from Baghdad, and savories cooked with spices from India and China

Throughout this time, one gourmet reigns supreme, al-Baghdadi (the whole name is Muhammad ibn al-Hassan ibn Muhammad ibn al-Karim al-Katib al-Baghdadi).  His cookbook, dating from the 13th century, defined Persian cooking.  The problem with al-Baghdadi is that his recipes are, by and large, highly complex in terms of the spices used. There are recipes which include sumac, taro, murri, and coriander juice.  So, it was great to come across this offering which doesn’t go to town with numerous ingredients and cooking techniques.  al-Baghdadi  put this dish under the heading of “relishes.”  It’s simple and delicious. For a vegetarian, this is the best dish you’ll have. And if you’re not a vegetarian,  you”ll savor it just as much.

My friends, eat like your a sultan tonight. The accompaniment to this dish is rice or couscous. I served it with pilaf rice. But whatever side dish you use, this simple spinach dish will be unforgettable.

ISFANAKH MUTAJAN

Ingredients:

2 to 2½ pounds spinach, stems removed, washed, drained, and chopped
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Instructions:

  1. Parboil the spinach for 1 to 2 minutes in a large pan of boiling salted water. Drain and squeeze dry.
  2.  Stir in the sesame oil, add the garlic, and mix.
  3.  Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with the cumin, coriander, and stir to mix.
  4.  Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

PASTA E FAGIOLI

April 26, 2020 / / 0 Comments

“When the stars make you drool, just like pasta fazool, that’s amore.”

Pasta e Fagioli, or pasta and beans, is a popular dish in Italian cuisine. And it’s best know to the rest of us as “Pasta Fazool.” It’s origin is Southern Italy, where it started out as a peasant dish, since it is filling and inexpensive. It began, originally, as a hearty soup or stew. In my family, we never made it soupy. It was more of a traditional pasta dish. That’s the way I’ve been eating it  all my life. The version I’m familiar with includes white beans, either cannellini beans (white kidney), Great Northern, or Navy beans. At one time there was a great restaurant in Brooklyn, Fiorentino’s, where they made the dish with lentils. I found that fascinating, and just as good. In all cases, the pasta used is of the small variety such a elbow macaroni or ditalini.  I reckon you could probably do it with larger shapes such as penne or rigatoni. I’ve never seen it done with string pasta but, if you wanna try, go right ahead.

Since the Covid-19 pandemic, we’ve been stocking up on beans, along with everyone else. Mainly it’s been the dried variety since they are cheap and plentiful. So, pasta fazool was a natural for a hearty dinner. Now, in the recipe noted below, we use canned beans since that’s the easiest way to prepare. But if you want to use dried beans, be my guest. Remember they have to be soaked, preferably overnight, drained, boiled, then simmered for an hour or so using the ingredients given.  Add a crusty loaf of bread, a good Chianti wine, and you’re set for a beggar’s (or a rich person’s) feast.

PASTA E FAGIOLI
(Pasta Fazool)

Ingredients:

1 pound elbow macaroni
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 ½ cups (more or less) tomato sauce
2 15.5-oz cans white kidney beans, drained
Fresh basil to taste or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Instructions:

1. Cook elbow macaroni per package instructions.
2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add onion and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until onion is translucent and tender.
3. Add tomato sauce and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes.
4. Add beans, cooked macaroni, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to boil. Remove from heat and serve piping hot. Garnish with Parmesan cheese.
Yield: 6 or more servings.

 

 

BIFTEC CON GARBANZOS (Beefsteak with Chickpeas)

April 25, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Like everyone else, during this time of Covid-19, we have stocked up on beans, both dried and canned. This is inclusive of chickpeas (garbanzos), which is one of the most common staples in Nuyorican cooking.  It amazes me how we never got the idea of mashing the chickpeas and creating something akin to hummus—but that’s another story. The following recipe comes from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Running Press) and the thickener used is cornstarch. I suppose flour could be used though we’ve never tried it that way. For the steak, fillet of beef is recommended, though boneless sirloin or round steak can be substituted. The cooking time will be longer though: 15 to 20 minutes for simmering the meat or until tender.

In our family, when we served his dish, the usual accompaniment was steamed rice. This time around we had some plantains on hand and we made platanos (fried plantains). For a recipe you can go to the post of 10/16/16 (Tostones, Fried Green Plantains). The biftec recipe also calls for achiote, a flavoring that adds an orange-red color to our dishes. For simplicity’s sake, I’ve added a recipe for achiote. If you don’t have the time or inclination to use genuine achiote, then you can substitute 1 teaspoon turmeric.

BIFTEC CON GARBANZOS
(Beefsteak with Chickpeas)

Ingredients:

1 pound fillet of beef, cut into julienne strips
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon achiote (see recipe given)
¼ cup olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and slice in thin rounds
1 teaspoon paprika
1 16-ounce can chickpeas
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon water

Instructions:

1. Sprinkle the beef with garlic, salt, pepper and achiote, and mix until meat is well coated.
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet or frying pan and sauté the meat over high heat for approximately 3 minutes.
3. Reduce heat to medium, add the onion, paprika, chickpeas (with their liquid) and bay leaf. Stir to blend.
4. Add the water mixed with cornstarch and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens (about 3minutes). Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 3 minutes more.
Yield: 4 to 5 servings.

ACHIOTE

1, Ina small skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat ½ cup olive oil or vegetable oil. When the oil is very hot add 1 tablespoon annatto seeds. They can be obtained in most supermarkets in 8-ounce jars. Turn heat to low and cook the seeds, stirring frequently for 5 minutes. If the flame is kept on high, the seeds may crack and splatter. During cooking, the oil will turn a bright orange-red color. The longer the seeds steep in the oil, the deeper the hue.
2. Remove from heat and let cool. Using a small strainer, pour into a glass jar or container. Cover and refrigerate.
Note: My relatives use a lot of achiote. Some of their recipes call for a  whole bottle of vegetable oil (32ounes) and one jar (8-ounes) in annatto seeds. Again, this is for those who use it constantly and fequently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BAKED FISH WITH TOMATOES

April 20, 2020 / / 0 Comments

This recipe works well with fish fillets or fish steaks. Your choice. Even in these trying times, fish fillets and/or fish steaks are still plentiful; and so are tomatoes. For the fillets it can be any firm fleshed white fish, be it haddock, perch, turbot, cod, grouper, bass, tilapia, even tilefish.  Same for fish steaks whether its tuna, snapper, salmon, swordfish or mahi-mahi. So, what are you waiting for? Go at it .

BAKED FISH FILLETS WITH TOMATOES

Ingredients:

2 pounds fish fillets or 4 steaks
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
½ cup chopped Italian parsley
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons butter
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Place onion, parsley and garlic in a baking dish or pan (I prefer cast-iron). Season fish  with salt, pepper and oregano; and place on top of vegetables. Add wine, dot with butter and cover fillets or steaks with tomato slices,
3. Bake for 20 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork. Then place fish under broiler for 3 minutes or until tomato slices are seared. Serve piping hot with bake potatoes and a side of greens.
Yield:  servings.

TURKISH KOFTE

April 18, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I’m a fan of Turkish cuisine. I first discovered it in my young manhood, and I’ve dabbled in it ever since. I especially love  the way our Turkish brethren prepare meatballs. It’s an art all its own. Like most Americans, I grew up on meatballs and spaghetti. But Turkish Kofte gave me a whole new appreciation on the subject. The following recipe I got from a friend years ago. I was entranced by the sauce that comes with it. It’s a lemon and egg sauce. A far cry, and different, from the usual marinara sauce in Italian cooking. And it gives the meatballs a whole new flavor component.

Figure it this way. With the current pandemic you’re most likely to be stuck at home, like most of us, sheltering in place. Now is the time to try something  different. Something that will spark your taste buds. I’m sure, once you’ve had this dish, you’ll never think of meatballs the same way again. It will become part of your repertoire now and in the future.

Let me add that when my friend cooked this dish, he would fry the meatballs in solid white shortening.  Honestly, the shortening gives it a better flavor. But there’s always that bugaboo about health concerns. So I use olive oil or vegetable oil. But, if you want to use Crisco, go right ahead. I can understand. It’s a personal preference. Also, I serve the recipe with rice. Or you can use couscous as an accompaniment if preferred.

TURKISH KOFTE

Ingredients:

1 pound lean ground beef
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup minced flat parsley
¼ cup fresh chopped dill
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup olive oil or vegetable oil
Lemon-Egg Sauce (recipe follows)

Instructions:

1. Place beef in a mixing bowl along with the onion, garlic, cheese, parsley, dill, salt and pepper. Knead mixture with hands for 5 minutes.
2. Form into ovals. Roll in flour, dip into eggs. In a skillet, sauté ovals on all sides in hot oil. Serve with lemon-egg sauce.
Yield: 4 servings.

LEMON AND EGG SAUCE

Ingredients:

4 eggs
6 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cups chicken broth or bouillon

Instructions:

1. In a small saucepan, beat eggs until frothy. Add lemon juice and stir.
2. Place over very low heat. Add broth slowly, stirring constantly. Cook, stirring, 10 to 15 minutes, until thickened. Do no boil.
Yield: 2 cups.

 

 

 

 

 

WALNUT CAULIFLOWER

April 16, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I’ve gotten into a cauliflower jag lately. Maybe it’ the coronavirus. Maybe I’ve just been lucky and found fresh cauliflower at the market. Whatever. It has enhanced my love for this venerable vegetable. When I was a kid I didn’t like it that much. But once I became an adult, a transformation happened. I discovered the wonderful ways that cauliflower can be prepared; and I don’t mean just boiling or steaming. You can make some really scrumptious dishes—like Walnut Cauliflower. That’s right, walnuts. Very healthy in the time of Covid-19. Not to mention, delicious. You can serve it, with its creamy mustard-flavored walnut sauce, as an accompaniment or as a meal in itself. It’ll hit the spot.

WALNUT CAULIFLOWER

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup flour
1½ cups milk
¾ cup light or heavy cream
1 egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2/3 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped and toasted
1 medium-sized cauliflower, cooked until tender and kept hot

Instructions:

1. In a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Remove the pan from the heat and, with a wooden spoon, stir in the flour to make a smooth paste.
2. A little at a time, add the milk and cream, stirring constantly and being careful to avoid lumps. Add the egg, vinegar, sugar and mustard.
3. Return the pan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes or until the sauce is thick and smooth. Do not allow the sauce to come to a boil or the egg will scramble. Stir in the walnuts and cook for 1 more minute, stirring constantly.
4.  Remove the pan from heat. Place cauliflower in a serving dish and pour the sauce over. Serve at once.
Yield: 4-6 servings.

 

 

 

 

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