Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Page 43 of 85

BASIC STEAMED CHICKEN – REDUX

Back on 06/04/10 I did a post on Basic Steamed Chicken. It was a recipe I had utilized for years in terms of preparing a good steamed fowl. That being said, I’m always on the lookout for recipes that may enhance or improve on the original. And that is where this version of steamed chicken comes in. I came across it recently; and I can attest it is far superior to the original recipe. I am not an absolutist in my cooking. If I come across something better, whether it’s given by a friend or other, I own up to it. If it’s an improvement, I’ll say so. It’s a process of growth—even for an old geezer like myself.

This recipe can be done in any steamer contrivance, be it metal or bamboo. Harking to its original method, I utilized a wok in this one. Today, most woks come with a steamer attachment; usually a small rack placed at the bottom of the wok for steaming. If your wok doesn’t have one, they are easy to find in almost any hardware store. Cooking in a wok gives it an Asian pedigree. If you don’t have a steamer then you can use a small 8-ounce can and place it in the bottom of a pot with a cover. Place the chicken in a plate, and atop the can, and follow directions as given for steaming. Enjoy!

For this dish, steamed rice is the usual accompaniment. I served it with brussels sprouts (I had a bunch on hand—as well as the steamed rice).

BASIC STEAMED CHICKEN – REDUX

Ingredients:

1 2½ to 3-pound chicken
5 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon peanut oil
¼ teaspoon sesame oil
1 cup chicken stock or bouillon
3 tablespoons dry sherry
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
1 shallot, peeled and sliced or 2 scallions
2 or 3 slices fresh ginger root (unpeeled)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Parsley for garnish

Instructions:

1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Rub chicken with 3 tablespoons of the soy sauce, peanut oil and sesame oil.
3. In a wok with steamer rack, pour chicken stock, sherry, salt (if using), shallot or scallions, and ginger root. Bring to a boil. Place chicken on top of rack, cover wok tightly and steam 35-40 minutes or until tender. Note that if your wok is not large enough to accommodate the chicken, you can slice chicken in half and then place on wok. Same for a bamboo,  metal steamer or pot.
4. Remove chicken from wok, set aside. Remove steamer rack. Replace chicken in the liquid left in the pot or wok. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce and brown sugar.  Cook chicken over medium heat, turning frequently until bird is evenly colored.  Let cool. Remove chicken from wok and, with a clever or chef’s knife, cut chicken, bone and all, into into 1½-inch sections. Serve hot or cold, garnished with parsley.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

VEAL FRICASSEE

Back in Spanish Harlem, the family did not eat that much veal. Reason being, it was an expensive cut of meat. Thus, veal was a special occasion for us. And when we had it, Ternera en Fricasé was one of our most popular renditions. You can call it veal fricassée. Years later I learned that our version was similar to the French dish called Veal Marengo. In that renowned effort, mushrooms and parsley are combined with the meat to create a sort of veal stew. We do it the Nuyorican way in that we adhere to a simple mix consisting of broth, tomato sauce, onions and pepper strips. If desired, quartered potatoes, capers and olives can be included in the mix. Just increased liquid content accordingly by adding ½ cup water.

Back on the block, the accompaniment to this dish was arroz con gandules,  or rice with pigeon peas (see blog 12/01/14 for a recipe). This time around we used mashed potatoes and,as a side dish, it was perfect.

Let me add that this recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Running Press). It’s still out there, folks.

TERNERA EN FRICASÉ
(Veal Fricassée)

Ingredients:

2 pound boneless shoulder of veal, cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 cup flour
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crush
1 cup beef broth or bouillon
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or ½ teaspoon dried
½ teaspoon fresh chopped thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf

Instructions:

  1. Rinse veal and pat dry with paper towels.
  2.  Season flour with salt and pepper.
  3.  Dredge veal chunks in seasoned flour
  4.  Heat oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven. Sauté onions, bell pepper and garlic over moderate heat for about 4 minutes. Add veal and cook until meat is lightly browned (another 2-3 minutes).
  5.  Add broth, tomato sauce, oregano, thyme a d bay leaf. Stir to combine.
  6.  Cover and simmer, on low heat, for 20-30 minutes or until veal is tender.
    Yield: 4 servings

MISO-GLAZED EGGPLANT SLICES

I will say this unequivocally, this is the best eggplant recipe you’ll come across. And it’s a grill recipe. But, I’m sure you can also prepare it atop the stove  Anyway, it’s mighty big statement to make, and I stand by it. I am a lover of eggplant, and when it’s well rendered, I swoon. This recipe makes it unique in that includes miso, the traditional Japanese seasoning that is made by fermenting soybeans, salt, barely or rice. The mixture comes in a paste that is used enhance soups,tofu and vegetables.

Let me add that there are various types of miso. For this recipe I used sweet white miso (shiro miso), which is the most versatile type. But you can also use red miso (aka miso), which is the saltiest, most pungent variety. And here you only need a little bit; and it goes especially well with eggplant.

This is not a Nuyorican recipe. It’s more Asian in  style it that, apart from miso, it also calls for sesame oil as one of the ingredients. The one thing that I must note is with regard to the eggplant. Again, I’ve had comments on both sides of the divide regarding this. I’ve heard from diehard cooks on my end,  that salting the eggplant prior to cooking, draws out the eggplant’s  bitter liquids, and will make it less likely that the eggplant will absorb oil while it fries. I’ve tried both methods and, honesty, I found no difference in taste. But, if you’re still a partisan of the salting thing (and have the time), then salt eggplant slices liberally, place in a colander in the sink and let sit 20-30 minutes. Then rinse, pat dry, and grill.

Ingredients:

2 medium or 1 large eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices
3 tablespoons corn or canola oil (or more as needed)
1 tablespoon sesame oil
Ground black pepper to taste
½ cup miso
¼ cup honey or maple syrup
¼ cup hot water

Instructions:

1.  Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high and place the rack about 4 inches from the flame.
2. In a cruet or small bowl (or even a cup), combine the corn and sesame oils, and brush the eggplant slices on both sides with the oil mixture. Sprinkle with pepper and brush with more oil. Grill until brown on both sides, about 6-8 minutes total, turning once or twice and brushing with more oil if it looks dry.
3. When the eggplant is almost done, in a small bowl, whisk together the the miso, honey (or maple syrup), and hot water. Then generously brush the eggplant with this mixture. Continue to grill another minute or two. Serve hot or at room temperature, drizzled with any remaining miso sauce.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: I served the eggplant with grilled steak; but grilled pork, lamb, or chicken can also be a good side.

GRILLED GLAZED PORK CHOPS

Sill in the grillin’ mode. Might as well enjoy it while the season lasts. This time it’s Glazed Pork Chops. A common enough entry. But, when one thinks of glazed pork chops, grilled or not, it’s pork chops smothered with orange marmalade. That’s been most of the recipes I’ve seen. Well, it can be done with any glaze, not just orange. Recently I scoured the fridge and discovered I had some leftover red raspberry and wild blueberry jam. Two small, half empty bottles, and still good to use. I mixed them all up and I had a suitable delicious glaze for the chops.

The trick here is that you can use any kind of crushed fruit for a glaze, even cramberry sauce and and sweet mango chutney. You’re only limited by your imagination.

Ingredients:

¼ cup your favorite jam or marmalade, or a mix
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice
1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
4 boneless pork chops, ¾-inch think, about 1 pound.

Instructions:

  1. Preheat a charcoal or gas grill for 6 minutes. For best results, brush the grate with vegetable oil before grilling. Fire should only be moderately hot.
  2.  For the glaze, combine jam or marmalade (or a mix), soy sauce, lemon juice, and ginger. Place chops on grill, and pour glaze over chops. Close lid and cook 6 to 8 minutes or until meat is no loner pink. Remove chops and pour glaze from grill over all.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS

Labor Day has passed. But that doesn’t mean we can’t continue grilling anymore. The weather is still hot in some parts; and the grill can still get some use. Like in this recipe for chicken wings. Normally, we make chicken wings Nuyorican style with the usual condiments: oregano, garlic, salt, pepper, and olive oil, all crushed in a mortar and then used as seasoning.

This recipe has more of an Asian aspect to it: ginger, scallions, honey, along with some white wine for added flavor. So, heat up the ole’ grill and go at it.

GRILLED CHICKEN WINGS

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tables spoons dry white wine (or can use sake, if preferred)
3 tablespoons honey or maple syrup
3 scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1-inch long piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
3 ponds chicken wings

Instructions:

  1.  Wash chicken wings under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  2. In a large dish, mix all ingredients except chicken wings. Now, here you can marinate chicken wings in two ways:  1) Place chicken wings in 2 large zip-lock bags, and add marinade ingredients. Place in refrigerator and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or, preferably, overnight, shaking the the bags occasionally to coat wings.  or 2) Add chicken wings to the dish, turn  to coat,  cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate (turning wings occasionally in marinade). Your choice
  3.  Start a charcoal or gas grill, and preheat. Fire should be moderately hot and rack should be about 6 inches from source of heat. Remove wings from marinade, place on grill and cook for about 10 minutes on each side. Remove from heat and sere immediately.
    Yield: 4 servings or more.

GRILLED STEAKS (Nuyorican Style)

The days are coming to precious few, but summer is still here. And grillin’ is still the norm. With that in mind, below are  two recipes for grilled steak (Biftec a la Parrilla). This is the Nuyorican way of doing it.  And here, a little historical perspective in order.  Prior to the arrival of the Americans in 1898, grilling as we know it, was not prevalent in Puerto Rico. Other Caribbean Islands did have barbacoa, but nothing like our barbecue with the grill and all the other accouterments.  Some state that the Carib Indians did have barbacoa, but it was for cooking human beings in ritual sacrifices. Not an appetizing idea.

Growing up in Spanish Harlem, we had no such thing as barbecue. But with Americanization, and when Boricuas started moving to the suburbs, it became as popular as elsewhere.  My parents and grandparents could not recall anyone doing outdoor grilling when they were growing up. But, once they came to the mainland, it took root.

Naturally, our grilling was, and is, different in that we utilized all the herbs and ingredients native to our cuisine. Thus our dishes come out a little more spicy and, to my mind, the better for it. The two dishes given are convenient that the ingredients used are probably in your cupboard already. Or they can be acquired with ease from the nearest store or greengrocer. The dishes call for 4 steaks, and any good steak variety can be used, be it strip steak, boneless rib-eye, filet mignon or other. They should be from 1 ¼ to 1½ inches thick, and about from 10 to 12 ounces each. The steaks should be grilled 3 to 5 minutes for medium rare (an internal temperature of 135 degrees F.),  5 to 7 minutes for medium (140 degrees F.), 8 to 10 minutes for medium-well (150 degrees F.). Turned once during cooking, and they should be slightly charred for medium-well. Also, transfer to a cutting board, and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.

This is classic barbecue, so the preferred beverage is beer or ale. If you desire a wine, then a fruity Chenin Blanc for a white. If you’ll partial to reds, then a zesty Zinfandel or a silky Pinot Noir. If you can’t make up your mind, then go with the compromise choice of almost everyone, a light vintage rosé.

BIFTEC A LA PARRILLA
(Grilled Steaks)

Method 1:

Brush steaks with olive oil (2 tablespoons). Combine 1 tablespoon ground black pepper; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1 tablespoon dried oregano (or 1 teaspoon dried); 1 tablespoons garlic powder; 1 tablespoon ground cumin; 1 tablespoon brown sugar; ½ teaspoon chili powder (optional). Season steaks with herb mix and grill on medium-high flame.

Method 2:

In a food processor, add ½ cup basil (or parsley or cilantro); 1 tablespoons fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried); 4 cloves garlic; 1 small onion, chopped; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; and ¼ cup olive oil. Chop for 1 minute until everything is finely diced.  Melt 3 tablespoons butter and sauté herb mix for about 2 minutes. Set aside. Season steaks with salt and black pepper to taste. Grill on medium-high until preferred doneness.  Serve steaks topped with the herb mixture.

TUNA BEAN SALAD

Ever since I was a youngster, I’ve always loved canned tuna fish. I can’t recall how many tuna fish sandwiches I’ve had throughout my long life. And always with lots of mayo on it. Unfortunately, my wife has a different view of canned tuna. To her mind (and certain studies do confirm that tuna, canned or otherwise, is among the seafood with the highest mercury content) tuna is verboten. Problem is, I still like tuna.  I may not eat as many tuna steaks as I once did but, occasionally, I still enjoy canned tuna. So, when she’s not watching, I’ll indulge my tuna jones.

And that is the genesis of today’s recipe. It’s a Tuna Bean Salad. Great for the current hot weather we’re having. Easy to prepare, and can be served at room temperature or chilled. It calls for a single can of tuna fish for 4 people; but you can  double it if desired and use 2 cans. Let me state that if you don’t have black beans on hand, you can substitute red kidney beans, white cannellini beans, or garbanzos (chick peas). The dish is served on a bed of greens. I used romaine lettuce, but any crisp salad greens can be utilized.  Some folks even add corn to it. You’re only limited by your imagination. Add a simple vinaigrette dressing, and you’re set. Enjoy!

And, for brother Ray, the perfect wine is a white: either Soave or Sauvignon blanc. Or, since it’s summer, a nice, cold ale.

Ingredients:

TUNA BEAN SALAD

1 (5-oz) can tuna, drained and flaked
1 (15.5-oz) can black beans, drained
1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced
Crisp salad greens

VINAIGRETTE DRESSING

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt to taste

Instructions:

  1. In a bowl, combine tuna, beans, and red pepper.
  2.  In a cruet or small bowl, combine vinaigrette ingredients, and add to tuna-bean salad.
  3.  Place crisp greens on a  platter or salad bowl. Top with tuna-bean salad. Sprinkle with fresh basil, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

ENSALADA DE REMOLACHA (Beet Salad)

Recently a friend gave us a bunch of fresh beets that she had just grown in her garden. So, the question was, What do we do with beets? I guess one could make Borscht. What else? There’s always beet salad.  But you really have to like beets to eat beet salad. Beets, like some foods is an acquire taste. Kids do not like beets. I away s did (I was a weird kid). In the family we had Ensalada de Remolacha or Beet Salad. And we all loved it. It contained onion, tomato, lemon juice,  olive oil, and a little sugar. From the youngest to the oldest, we would scarf it up.The perfect side dish to steak, ham, chicken or lamb.

Kiddies, here it is, the the beet recipe everybody will love—by way of Nuyorican cuisine.

ENSALADA DE REMOLACHA
(Beet Salad)

Ingredients:

1 pound beets, trimmed of leaves
Salt to taste
1 small onion, slice into thin rounds
1 small tomato, about ¼ pound, cored and cut into thin slices
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil

Instructions:

  1. Put the beets in a kettle or saucepan, add water to cover and salt. Bring to  boil and let cook, uncovered, about 30 minutes or until beets are tender. Cooking time will depend on the size and age of the beets.
  2.  Drain the beets, peel them, and place in a bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix gently. Chill until ready to serve. Garnish with basil before serving..
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

LEMON-GARLIC GRILLED FISH FILLETS

With this spell of hot weather, grilling  has come to the fore. Here’s a recipe that is not your usual grilling scene. No steak, no burgers, no hotdogs. Instead we have fish fillets.  For the recipe given we used perch fillets. But any firm-fleshed fillets can be used: haddock, turbot, cod, even red snapper fillets. But not fillet of sole. It’s too fragile for grilling. Also, for those who like a heartier dish, you can also use fish steaks with this recipe. Just be cognizant of the cooking time:. for fish steaks, grill 10 minutes per inch of thickness.

For richer flavor, the fish needs to be marinated in a mixture that combines all the ingredients given. The longer it marinates, the better the flavor. It could be one hour. But we’ve discovered that the best  is three hours or longer.

So, light up the grill, whether charcoal or gas, and enjoy.

LEMON-GARLIC GRILLED FISH FILLETS

Ingredients:

2 pounds fish fillets
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1/4 cup olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons fresh basil, minced
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Lemon wedges

Instructions:

  1. In a covered bowl or large zip-lock bag, combine all ingredients. Mix well. Add fish fillets to the marinade and refrigerate 3 hours. While in marinade, turn fillets several times.
  2. Preheat grill, and brush grill grate with salad oil.  Place fillets on grill, and cook 5-6 minutes, turning once. Fish is done when it it close to the point of flakiness. Remove from grill and serve with lemon wedges.
    Yield: 4-5 servings.

 

 

ONION-GARBANZO SALAD

I like chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans. And I like eggplant. So why not combine the two in a luscious recipe during these dog days of summer? It is the easiest dish to prepare. And you don’t have to mess with a hot stove. However, I’ve discovered that, to get the best out of an onion dish like this one, it’s a good idea to first soak the onion rings in water and ice. This will render crispy onions and a nuanced flavor, but not so over powering it will  negate the other ingredients. With some good crusty bead, this recipe is perfect for hot weather.

And, as my  fellow martial arts brother Ray, would insist, the perfect wine accompaniment would be a Meursault. It’s the top Burgandy white, but somewhat expensive. Otherwise, a good Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, or Soave will do.

ONION-GARBANZO SALAD

Ingredients:

1 large sweet onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings
Ice cubes and water
1 teaspoon salt
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh chopped oregano or ¼ teaspoon dried
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Crisp Romaine leaves
1 green pepper, thinly sliced in rings
1 tomato, cut in slender wedges
1 can (10-oz) garbanzo beans, drained
½ cup black pitted olives, sliced in half
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

Instructions:

  1. Place onion rings in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt, add water to cover with four ice cubes. Let stand 30 minutes.
  2.  In a small bowl or cruet, stir and mix olive oil, vinegar, oregano and pepper.
  3.  Arrange Romaine leaves on a serving platter; and top with green peppers, tomato wedges, garbanzos and olives.
  4.  Drain the onion rings and lay out on paper toweling. Arrange over beans and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Spoon on dressing and serve.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

 

 

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