Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

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PORK CHOPS HORTENSE

March 19, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Back when I was a young man, a hundred years ago, I stared collecting recipes. Up to that time my purview had been Caribbean cooking. Then I started expanding my palate and repertoire. On of the earliest recipes I collected was the one given below. The dish is called Pork Chops Hortense, and who first created it, I have no idea. If someone out there knows the provenance of this recipe, please let me know so that I can give credit to the appropriate party. Enough to say that it’s a delicious recipe that livens up the lowly pork chop and brings it to new heights.

Let me state that this can be  served with any grain,  pasta or, even, couscous. I served it over yellow rice, and it was perfect. Want to try it with brown rice, wild rice or other, no problem. It matches well with all, even mashed potatoes.

PORK CHOPS HORTENSE

Ingredients:

4 1-inch loin pork chops
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
3 tablespoons butter
1 tart apple, peeled and chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1 cup beef broth
1/4 teaspoon powdered mustard
3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 tablespoons brandy

Instructions:

  1. Rinse the chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and oregano on both sides.
  2. Heat butter in a large skillet, and sauté the pork chops, apple and onion until pork chops are browned on both sides. Transfer pork chops to a heat-proof platter and place in a 300-degree oven to finish cooking. Leave the apple and onion in skillet and continue to sauté until apple and onion is tender.
  3.  Sprinkle apple and onion with flour and cook about 2 minutes more. Blend in broth and mustard. Bring to a simmer.
  4.  In a food mill, blender or food processor, purée skillet mixture, then return to skillet and heat through to near boiling. Blend in  heavy cream and brandy. Pour mixture over pork chops and serve immediately.                             Yield: 4 servings.

MEMORIES OF CONGEE

March 9, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Back in my wild and misspent youth, one of the most memorable characters I use to hang out with was a beautiful person named Eddie. He was Chinese, and  was the center of a group whom we termed, The Gang of Four. It was Eddie, myself, Larry (another Chinese guy), and Henry, who is Irish.

After work we would all meet at Lucy Jung’s restaurant on Canal Street. Larry was the manager at Lucy Jung’s, and we would keep him company, drinking and carrying on until the restaurant closed. Then we would go bar hopping in Chinatown. This was the era  when Chinatown had numerous watering holes such as the Golden Valley, The Hon Gong, and Winnies. They’re all closed now. The new generation sits behind laptops and tablets, staring at screens in the local Starbuck’s. The camaraderie that we all knew, is now gone.

Anyway, after a night of drinking, at around 3 or 4 a.m. we would end up in a little hole in the wall restaurant on Doyer’s Street, where we would all have a heaping bowl of congee. This would, hopefully, sober us up so that we could all shuffle to work that same morning—and then start up the same ritual the following evening. As the song says, we were young and surely had our way.

Eddie is no longer with us, but the other guys still are; although we all much older now, and somewhat wiser, all happily married,  and with families. But the memories still linger. Especially of congee, and it’s sobering affects.  Congee, also known as jook, is a hearty stew, more like a rice porridge. It’s popular throughout China, Laos, and Thailand. It can be served as a breakfast, lunch, or dinner dish. It’s simple and delicious. All you need is hot broth (or plain water will do), rice and some meat thrown in. The congee we had in Chinatown was made with pork meatballs. But you can prepare it with chicken, beef, or even fish.

The following is Eddie’s recipe for congee (or jook, as he preferred to call it).

CONGEE

Ingredients:

1 pound ground pork
1 tablespoon Bell’s All Natural Seasoning
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch of ground white pepper
1/4 cup finely sliced scallions
1 teaspoon salt (optional)
1 quart chicken broth, or water
1 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch slices
1/2 cup jasmine rice
1 tablespoon fish sauce (can be found in any Asian market)
3 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro
Fried garlic oil (recipe follows below)

Instructions:

  1. Place ground pork in a mixing bowl. Mix in Bell’s seasoning, oregano, white pepper, scallions, and salt, if using. Set aside.
  2.  In a wok or soup pot, combine the broth (or water) and ginger. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat.  Add jasmine rice, cover and lower heat to  a gentle simmer. Cook for 20 minutes. Add the pork in tablespoon-sized meatballs.
  3.  Let the mixture simmer for another 15 minutes. Add the fish sauce, transfer to a large serving bowl. Garnish with cilantro and fried garlic oil, and serve. If you prefer,  can also  serve the congee in small individual bowls, and each person can add garnish as desired. Your choice.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Fried Garlic OiI: In a small fry pan, cook 2 cloves garlic (finely minced), in 2 tablespoons olive oil. When garlic is slightly
browned, remove from heat and add to congee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

CAMARONES CON AJO (Shrimps with Garlic)

March 1, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Back on 110th Street and Lexington Avenue, this was a most popular dish. If you like shrimps and garlic (which Nuyoricans love), this was a favorite. Imagine my amazement, years later, when I discovered that the self-same dish was a traditional tapas plate popular in Spain. There, they call it “Gambas al Ajillo.” Why they call it “gambas,” I have no idea. I do know that it’s a tapas favorite where they include some good bread to soak up the delicious sauce in the dish. In Spanish Harlem, we serve it over rice.

What you have is a traditional garlic shrimp dish which has transcended cultures. In Nuyorican cooking, we also serve this entrée as a sandwich. You put the garlic infused shrimp on a roll or two slices of your favorite bread, and you’re set to go.  I have never seen this done in Spain. Again, it’s a Nuyorican thing. The same way American cooking has transformed Chinese cuisine with such dishes as egg foo young and chop suey, which never existed in China; or Italian coking with pasta primavera, another American invention. Thus, Puerto Ricans a took a tapas dish and put their own mark on it.

CAMARONES CON AJO
(Shrimp with Garlic)

1/4 cup olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
20 large shrimp (about 1 pound), peeled and deveined
1 chili pepper, split with seed removed, and chopped
1 teaspoon brandy
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

  1. heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
  2.  Add garlic and saute until brown, about 2 minutes.
  3.  Add shrimp and chili pepper. Cook for 2 minutes. Turn the shrimp over and cook another 2 minutes. Pour in the brandy and cook an additional  2 minutes. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.                                                                                 Yield:  4 servings.

LEBANESE DELIGHTS

February 22, 2018 / / 5 Comments

One of my interests as of late is Lebanese cooking. Lebanon is a small country on the shores of the Mediterranean, which recently has been at the center of Middle Eastern conflicts because of its borders with Syria and Israel. The first time I heard about Lebanon was in the late 50s in the then popular Danny Thomas show. Thomas was of Lebanese descent, and now and then the show featured the irascible Uncle Tanoose (portrayed by actor Hans Conried), and whose antics were legendary in the program. I knew nothing of Lebanese cooking, but that soon changed. I became enamored of its varied cuisine, especially it’s vegetable  dishes with its stuffings of grape leaves, zucchinis and eggplant.   In terms of taste, health and nutrients, Lebanese cooking is right up there with the best of them.

For today’s rendition we have some simple and delicious Lebanese offerings which should give you an idea of the nature of this cuisine. The recipe is Fried Cauliflower, serve with Sesame Oil Sauce; and  both dishes come from one of my favorite cookbooks, Lebanese Delights, The Art of Lebanese Cuisine by Raymonda Khoury Naaman (Beirut, Lebanon).

So, for a change, enjoy some Middle eastern magic. You won’t be disappointed.

ARNABIT MIKLEH
(Fried Cauliflower)

Ingredients
1 medium cauliflower, cut into florets
2 tbsp vegetable oil for baking, or
1 cup vegetable oil for deep frying

Preparation
Heat 1 cup of oil in a deep frying pan. Fry 4 to 5 florets at a time until they turn golden in color. Drain on a paper towel.

Alternative
Place the florets in a baking pan and pour 2 tbsp of vegetable oil over them. Bake in a 350-degree over until golden in color.

Serves 6
180 calories per serving (fried)
100 calories per serving (baked)

Serve with taratour bittahini (recipe follows)

TARATOUR BITTAHINI
(Sesame Oil Sauce)

Ingredients
1/2 cup tahani (sesame oil)
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 tsp mashed garlic
Cold water if needed
Salt as desired

Preparation
Place the tahini in a bowl and gradually stir in the lemon juice. Add cold water if needed and keep stirring, until the tahini is smooth and creamy. Add the mashed garlic, salt and mix.
Sesame oil sauce can be used on fish, fried cauliflower, fried eggplant, falafel and shawarma.

 

 

 

 

 

 

POACHED FISH FILLETS WITH LEMON-BUTTER SAUCE

February 15, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Of all the seafood dishes out there, the easiest to prepare, to my mind, is poached fish fillets, be it cod, perch, turbot, or any firm fleshed fish. It even works with blue fish fillets. It is the easiest of all creations.

Most cooks I know do make this delicacy, but then they drench it in a rich sauce, be it Béarnaise sauce,  Hollandaise sauce or Bechamel. I prefer this dish with a simple lemon-butter sauce, with just a few key ingredients for flavor: peppercorns, garlic, shallots and parsley. Serve with some steamed veggies, it hits the spot. A good Chablis, Pinot Grigio, or Reisling to accompany it ( or a light red, if you desire), and you have a memorable repast—even for a weeknight dinner.

POACHED FISH FILLETS WITH LEMON-BUTTER SAUCE

Ingredients

2 fish fillets (we use haddock), about  1 3/4 pounds
1 cup milk
1/2 cup water
1 bay leaf
4-6 sprigs parsley, plus 2 tablespoons finely minced parsley
8 whole peppercorns
Salt to taste (optional)
2 whole cloves
4 tablespoons butter
1 garlic clove, finely minced
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
Juice of half a lemon
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Cut fillets crosswise into  4 pieces of equal size.
2. Place fish fillets in one layer in skillet or fry pan. Add milk and water. The fish should be barely covered with the liquid. If necessary, add a little more water. Add bay leaf, parsley sprigs, peppercorns, salt and cloves.
3. Bring to a boil, cover, lower heat and simmer 5-7 minutes. Cooking time will depend on thickness of fish. Cook only until the fish flakes easily with a fork.
4. Heat one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan and add garlic and shallots. Cook briefly, stirring.
5. Remove 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid from the fish and add stir it into the saucepan.
6. Bring to a boil and add the lemon juice. Swirl in the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Remove from heat and add the minced parsley and pepper.
7. Drain the fish and serve hot with the melted lemon-butter sauce poured over the fillets.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BIFTEC AL SARTEN (Skillet Steak)

February 8, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Back on 11/10/17 I posted a dish, Higado al Sarten (Sauteéd Liver).  It was just liver (which I like—but many people do not) sautéed in a skillet. Hence the “al sartén” appellation.  This time, it’s Biftec al Sartén or, simply, Skillet Streak. We loved this dish in our family simply because it was so easy to prepare. It contained the usual steak ingredients;  and the beef was pound with some flour,  and cooked in the skillet along with potatoes and vegetables. What could be easier?

Note that the recipe can use whatever steak meat desired. It could be chuck, or boneless round steak or, what I used this time, sirloin strip steak. If using chuck, the cooking time will be greater, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours for the meat to cook. If using boneless round or strip steak, the time will be less, about 1 hour or so.

The dish does not really need an accompaniment. The veggies and potatoes should be enough for the dish to stand on its own. In fact, in terms of vegetables, you can use whatever you like. If desired, you can substitute the carrot for green beans or peas, frozen or fresh. If using fresh vegetables, apply cooking time 10-15 minutes. For frozen veggies, refer to package directions. This is the archetypical winter dish and, served with a hearty red wine, you have yourself a winner.

BIFTEC AL SARTÉN
(Skillet Steak)

Ingredients

1 pound sirloin strip steak, or boneless beef round steak
1/4 cup all purpose flour
2 tablespoons olive oi
1 large onion, sliced into thin rings
1 cup beef bouillon
1/4 cup catsup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram leaves
4 large potatoes, washed, scrubbed and slice into thin rounds
1 large carrot, peeled and sliced

Instructions

  1. Coat steak pieces with flour; then pound into beef.
  2.  Heat oil in a large skillet, and brown beef. Push beef to one side of pan, and stir-fry onion until tender.
  3.  Add beef bouillon, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, salt, and marjoram. Heat to boiling, reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer until beef is tender. About 1 hour
  4.  30 minutes before beef is done, add carrots and potatoes to skillet. Cover and simmer  until vegetables are tender.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ESCALOPES CON AJO (Scallops with Garlic)

February 1, 2018 / / 0 Comments

 

This is one of those recipes where the wording and translation is a bummer. In our family, we loved scallops, and our favored way of cooking them was simply sautéed with garlic. We called it Escalopes con Ajo. It makes sense, “scallops,” escalopes. Then I discovered that escalopes could be a Spanglish translation. Spanglish was, and is, the argot that Puerto Ricans invented when they came to the mainland back in the 1950s.  To navigate the strange waters in New York, they added Spanish idioms to everyday words. Thus a mop became el mapo, the back yard became la yarda, the grocery bag became el chopping bag, and (I love this one), later on to “rap” (as in rap music or rap dialogue) became to rapiar. It seems the same thing happened to “scallops.” In traditional Spanish, scallops are translated as vieiras. To us Nuyoricans, that word would have seem strange. In confuse the situation even more, there is a popular  scallop stew called callos de hacha. I have no idea  how that came about.

Whatever. The recipe stands on its own for its taste and simplicity in preparation. Now, we get to the scallops thing.  The most common types of scallops are sea scallops and bay scallops. Sea scallops are the ones you most often see on restaurant menus. They are traditionally cooked seared or thinly sliced. Bay scallops are smaller and sweeter. In the recipe given, both types can be used, though bay scallops are preferred. If you can find bay scallops from New England or the Carolinas, then you have it made. Still, given this recipe, whatever type you use, you’ll love the results. As long as you don’t overcook the scallops (they’re done when their usual ivory color turns opaque),  and the garlic will infuse a terrific flavor enhancement

As an accompaniment to this recipe, I’ve included potatoes with rosemary. You can use regular potatoes or red potatoes, your choice. It marries well with the scallop dish. You can cook both dishes at the same time. The game plan is thus: cut the potatoes (don’t peel), place in water and cook. Chop garlic and parsley. Finish off potatoes and quickly cook scallops.  Serve and enjoy.

ESCALOPES CON AJO
(Scallops with garlic)

Ingredients

3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 pound scallops
2 tablespoons bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add garlic and sauté for 30 seconds.
2. Add scallops and stir-fry until they became opaque. Depending on size, this will take 5-7 minutes.
3. Add bread crumbs and cook 30 seconds, stirring constantly.
4. Add parsley and cook 20 seconds. Remove from heat and serve immediately.

POTATOES WITH ROSEMARY

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds potatoes, cut into chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Place potatoes in a pot of water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, about 10-15 minutes, depending on size of chunks.
2. Remove from heat, drain. Add olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper, and toss gently.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

JAMON AL VIDRIANO (Glazed Ham Steak)

January 24, 2018 / / 0 Comments

Go online and you’ll find all kinds of recipes for cooking ham steak. Now, I’m not talking about a ham roast where you bake a canned boned ham; but a ham steak, which is just a slice from a whole piece of ham which is used for roasting. Sometimes, for a weeknight dinner you don’t want a  whole ham.  So, a  smaller ham steak is the better deal and it’s more cost effective.

What I noticed for ham steaks is that most recipes call for brown sugar, vinegar, Dijon mustard and a whole lot of other stuff. And these are all well and good, and delicious. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve used these recipes a lot. But we Puerto Ricans have  a whole different way for cooking ham steaks. Different in the ingredients. The cooking method, by and large, remains the same: roasting or baking. But our ham glaze, which is the universal way of cooking a ham steak, is sweeter, and has more of a kick. We add Puerto Rican rum to it.

This recipe has been in our family for ages. We used our glaze for cooking ham roasts, ham steaks, pork roasts and, yes, even canned ham. It’s always been a hit,  never a miss. If you like ham steaks, this is it. Period.

 

JAMÓN AL VIDRIANO
(Glazed Ham steak)

Ingredients

2 boneless ham steaks (with natural juices) about 2 pounds
1 cup orange juice
1/2 cup Puerto Rican dark rum
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon ground ginger
Few whole cloves (5 or 6 )

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  2. Wash ham steak under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  3.  Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until syrupy, about 30 minutes.
  4.  Place ham in a baking dish, pour glaze over ham steaks, and bake until brown on both sides, about 45 minutes, turning every 15 minutes.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

CHICKEN WITH OLIVES MEXICAN-STYLE

January 19, 2018 / / 0 Comments

This recipe came about because my wife presented me with a bottle of Minervois, a famed wine from the Languedoc-Rousillon wine region in France. The bottle is a blend of 60% Syrah grape and 40% Grenache. This particular wine is delightfully aromatic with a violet-tinged nose of black fruit and spice; and rich with prune and cinnamon flavors. And it’s the perfect wine to serve with, among other dishes, chicken with olives. Thus in this case the dish was made to match the wine.

My version of chicken with olives is normally made Puerto Rican style with the requisite spices: pepper, oregano, garlic, tomato sauce, and sofrito. Then I discovered there’s a Mexican style of chicken with olives. In this version they add chili powder, cumin, and dry sherry. This combination intrigued me: and thus the recipe given below. As with its Puerto Rican counterpart, the recipe is perfect with steamed rice. But you can substitute pasta or a grain such as couscous or quinoa. Whatever suitable side dish you use, the dish is heavenly.

CHICKEN WITH OLIVES MEXICAN-STYLE

1 3-3 ½ pound chicken, cut into serving pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely sliced into rings
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ cup dry sherry
½ teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon oregano, crushed
2 tablespoons flour
2 ½ cups chopped fresh tomatoes or one 17-ounce can Italian peeled tomatoes
20 pitted green Spanish olives

1. Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy skillet and, when it is hot but not smoking, add the chicken pieces skin side down. Cook until golden brown on one side and turn the pieces, Cook until golden on the other side. Transfer to large plate or platter and set aside.
3. To the fat in the skillet, add the onion and cook, stirring until wilted. Stir in the garlic. Add half of the sherry and let it cook until most of the liquid evaporates. Sprinkle with chili powder, cumin, oregano and flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are well blended.
4. Add the tomatoes and stir until thickened. Cook stirring about 10 minutes. Add chicken to skillet and mix, spooning sauce over chicken. Cover tightly and cook over low to moderate heat about 30 minutes or until chicken is tender. Add the olives, stir in the remaining sherry, bring to a boil and serve.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

STEAMED PORK PATTY WITH WATER CHESTNUTS AND DRIED CHINESE MUSHROOMS

January 16, 2018 / / 0 Comments

A while back I came across a book titled Daughters of Heaven—A Memoir with Earthy Recipes by Lesli Li (arcade Publishing, New York). The book reminded me a lot of my own tome, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America, in that it followed the same format: A family saga and coming of age story told through cooking. In my case it was through Puerto Rican culture and Caribbean cooking. In Ms. Li’s fine example, it was told though Chinese culture and its cuisine. It brought to mine that, at heart, we are all the same, and how we cook and use ingredients for our nourishment is paramount.

I enjoyed Ms. Li’s book wholeheartedly. And I still get a kick out of the recipes she posited. One of my favorites is the one given below, Steamed Pork Patty with Water Chestnuts and Dried Chinese Mushrooms. I like steamed patties, always have, be they vegetable, seafood or meat. But this dish struck my fancy in that it’s one large steamed patty filled with flavorful ingredients, and perfect over steamed rice. Think of Shepherd’s Pie if it were steamed rather than baked. A fascinating idea.

Note that for this recipe you’ll need a good sized steamer. It could a bamboo steamer, or a steamer attachment over a wok; or you could place a small metal vegetable steamer (the folding collapsible basket type) inside a large pot, add about 2 inches of water, place a plate with the ingredients atop steamer, cover and steam as you would normally. I use something that I purchased years ago, the Serendipity Pan, which is a 3-piece enamel cookware that works as a wok, steamer and serving platter all in one. Alas, it is no longer sold or made. If you’re lucky enough to find one in a thrift shop or store that sells antique cookware, grab it! Otherwise, go with what you have.

Another thing: the recipe calls for placing the mixture in a loaf pan or baking pan. I discover that it works just as well if you place the pork mixture in a deep plate or platter that fits into the steamer. It gives you the same results. So, go at it, and enjoy!

STEAMED PORK PATTY WITH WATER CHESTNUTS AND DRIED CHINESE MUSHROOMS

1 pound pork butt, trimmed of excess fat and minced fine or 1 pound lean ground pork, minced fine.
4 large dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked in boiling water for 10 minutes, stems discarded, caps minced
10 canned water chestnuts, minced
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar (or honey)
½ teaspoon salt (optional)
1 tablespoon fine julienne of peeled fresh ginger root.

In a bowl stir together the pork, mushrooms, water chestnuts, soy sauce, oil, cornstarch, sugarand salt. Aerate the mixture by fluffing with a fork.

Transfer mixture to a loaf pan or other baking pan that will fit in a steamer, being careful not to pack the mixture down. Sprinkle with the ginger root. Put the pan in a steamer set over boiling water. Steam the pork, covered, for 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.

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