Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Page 50 of 85

Greek Omelet

I will scarf up anything with eggs in it. I love the suckers: boiled, par-boiled, fried, scrambled, sunny-side up, you name it. One of the favorite is a Greek omelet. Actually, it’s more of a souffled omelet (or omelette). In this case, filled with spinach. So in another universe it could be it could be called “Omelet Florentine.”

This recipe can be a  breakfast, lunch, or, dinner entrée. I discovered long ago that eggs are not solely for the morning. Now, let’s talk about the elephant in the room: cholesterol. Recent studies have questioned the whole cholesterol bit. Supposedly, it’s all in the egg yolks. But egg whites really don’t afford the same taste and texture. In this recipe I use both egg whites and yolks. Through trial and error I found that separating the whites from the yolks, beating them separately and then adding them to the omelet makes an airy, fluffy dish. Even if you’re worried about the cholesterol thing, having eggs once in a while is not going to kill you. As with all things. moderation is the key.

This dish goes great with crusty bread, french fries, or (my favorite), served over rice

GREEK OMELET

3 tablespoon olive oil
1 bag (about 8 ounces) spinach, washed and patted dry
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
2-3 ounces crumbled feta cheese
4 large whole eggs plus 2 egg whites
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
Chopped fresh dill

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the spinach, salt, pepper, and oregano, and  cook, stirring, until the spinach is wilted. Sprinkle with the feta cheese. Set aside and keep warm.
3. In a medium bowl, combine the egg yolks with a pinch of salt, pepper, and the lemon zest. Whisk until the mixture is fluffy, about 3-4 minutes. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold the egg whites into the yolks and stir until they are mixed.
4. Heat the remaining olive oil in the skillet, pour in the egg mixture, and gently spread it out evenly. Place the skillet in the middle shelf in the oven and bake until it’s almost cooked, about 3 minutes. If your skillet is not cast-iron or does not have an oven safe handle, cover the handle with foil wrap while baking.
5. Remove omelet from the oven. Spoon the spinach mixture over half of the omelet. Using a spatula, fold the other half of the omelet over to cover the filling. Return the omelet to the oven and bake another 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the dill, cut into serving pieces and serve immediately.
    Yield: 4 servings.  

Circassian Chicken

I’m into Middle eastern Cuisine. The flavors, the ingredients all fascinate me. In some cases it’s as far from Caribbean cooking as one can find. So I’m always on the lookout for something unique within a Middle eastern venue. And that explains the recipe given today. It’s called “Circassian Chicken.” A little history here. The Circasssians are an ethnic group that hails from the Northwest Caucasus. They were incorporated into the Czarist Russian Empire during the 19th century. But most Circassians are Sunni Muslims, and their cooking, I’m told, is very popular throughout the Middle East. They have a very old tradition in which nuts, ground fine, are used to enrich and thicken a sauce that is very prevalent in their cooking, as you will note with this dish.

Ground nuts in cooking? you say. Haven’t done that lately. Well, just try the dish. You’ll be surprised how good it is. Impress your crowd tonight. Tell ’em they’ll be dining on a dish worthy of a Sultan or Caliph.

CIRCASSIAN CHICKEN

1 large roasting chicken, about 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
2 large onions, peeled and quartered
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 cup shelled nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, or a mixture)
1 cup fine bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoons paprika
Cooked rice (enough for 4 servings)

1. Wash chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place in a large pot or pan, cover with water, add the onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for about an hour or until the chicken is  tender.
3. Drain the chicken, but reserve the stock, keeping the chicken warm.
4. Grind the nuts in a food processor or blender. Place 2 cups reserved chicken stock into a clean pan. Stir in the nuts and bread crumbs. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring, until the mixture has thickened. Add more stock if it becomes too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. In a cup or saucer,  mix the paprika with the oil until it becomes bright red. Add this to the nut/bread mixture and stir to combine.
6. Arrange the rice on a serving platter, top with the chicken and pour the nut sauce over both the chicken and rice.
    Yield: 4 or more servings.

 
    

Quick Shrimp Fixes

One thing you know about this blog is that I love shrimp. Just review the previous posts like Shrimp Aglio e Olio (1/9/15), Shrimp with Garlic (3/21/15), and Shrimp with Cream Sauce (1/2/16) and you get the idea. What I like about shrimp, apart from its texture and taste, is that it’s so easy to cook. Whether you broil it, steam it or stir-fry, the trick is quick cooking, 2-3 minutes over medium heat until its turns pink.

If there’s one drawback about it, is the preparation. That is, removing the shell and deveining. Here’s a secret. You don’t need to devein shrimp, unless you’re a purist (which I ain’t). In some cultures, they eat the shrimp whole, eyes and all. That vein down the back of the shrimp is part of the intestinal tract. Now, before you start thinking about eating intestines, you won’t fall ill from eating it. In Chinese restaurants, I’ve never seen anyone remove the vein. It’s all a matter of preference. Also, convenience. With small shrimp, no one even bothers. But even with large shrimp like prawns or jumbo, it could take hours to devein the thing. Fortunately, most suppliers these days offer shrimp that has already been shelled and deveined.

The recipes given can be done quickly and efficiently. The white bean ragout can be served over rice. With the shrimp and vodka, I prefer it over pasta, whatever type you like. But, if you want to serve it with a grain, go right ahead. In terms of cuisine, I discovered long ago, do what suits you best.

SHRIMP AND WHITE BEAN RAGOUT
(Note: I first had this dish in my young manhood, years ago, at one of my favorite watering holes, Ye Olde Tripple Inn at 54th Street between 7th and 8th Avenue. When I saw it on the menu, I told Mike, the owner, “I’ll have the “RAG-OUT.” He corrected me: “Dummy, it’s called “RAGOO.” To which I replied, ‘Okay, I’ll have the ‘RAGU.'” The Tripple Inn is no longer with us, but memories are made of this.)       

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 pound large raw shrimp, 1/4 teaspoon each garlic powder and crumbled dried rosemary, plus salt and pepper to taste. Cook 2 minutes. Add 1 can (15 1/2 ounces) rinsed Great Northern Beans (white beans) and cook 2 minutes until heated through. Serve over rice. 4 servings.

 SHRIMP WITH VODKA

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 small onion, chopped; and 2 cloves garlic, finely minced. Cook, stirring, about 4-5 minutes, until softened. Add 2 tablespoons tomato sauce. Cook for 1-2 minutes. Stir in 1 cup heavy cream. Bring to a boil, add salt and pepper to taste, and let the sauce bubble until it starts to thicken slightly. Add 1 pound large raw shrimp to the sauce plus 2 tablespoons vodka. Cook, stirring, over medium heat  2-3 minutes more. Pour sauce over cooked pasta, either strand, tubular or other. Toss well and serve. 4-6 servings. 

Polynesian Kebobs

This is a recipe that I obtained from an old cookbook I found at the bottom of some desk drawer somewhere. The cookbook, an old softcover, was published by the Rival Manufacturing Company in 1982. The “Rival” brand name is still around and they manufacture small kitchen appliances. Whether they still published the cookbook, Time to Enjoy: A Quick and Creative Recipe Collection, I do not know.

The recipe intrigued me simply because I enjoy kebob (kebab) cooking. That is, broiling or grilling meat and/or veggie on a skewer. The recipe is termed “Polynesian.” I gather because it has pineapple chunks. Somehow, somewhere along the line, adding pineapple to a dish made it Hawaiian or Polynesian. Just as adding soy sauce to a dish makes it “Asian.”

This is a very easy to prepare recipe that calls for Italian salad dressing, the type found in any store or supermarket. If you’re loath to use a processed product that comes in a can or jar, you can make your own. Here’s a quicky method: combine in a salad cruet or quart mason jar with a tight fitting lid, 3/4 cup olive oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 1 finely minced garlic clove or 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder; 1 tablespoon fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried; 1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley or 1 tablespoon dried. If desired, you can add 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, but this is optional. Some like, some don’t. Shake well, and serve. It renders about 1 cup of salad dressing.

Note that in this recipe, I served the kebobs with couscous. But you can serve it over rice or any other grain.

POLYNESIAN KEBOBS

1 pound beef sirloin, cut in 1-inch cubes
1/4 cup Italian dressing
1 can (8 ounces) pineapple chunks
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 zucchini, cut in bite-size chunks

1. In bowl, combine sirloin cubes and salad dressing. Allow to stand a few minutes.
2. Drain pineapple chunks, reserving liquid. In small saucepan, combine liquid, brown sugar, soy sauce and cornstarch; heat until boiling and thickened.
3. On skewers, alternate beef, pineapple and zucchini. Brush with remaining salad dressing marinade.
4. Broil 10 minutes or until beef is cooked, turning skewers half-way through cooking. Serve with sauce.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Lamb Shanks with Apricots

This recipe is probably Arabic in nature. Which means its original providence is Persia, or modern day Iraq. In the seventh century, Muslim armies conquered Persia, and the Arabs moved their capital from Damascus in Syria to Baghdad, the heart of the former Persian empire. And thus began the great change in Arabic cooking. The desert Arabs had subsisted on sheep’s milk, barley, mutton and dates. In contrast, the caliphs of Baghdad enjoyed truffles from the Arabian Desert, cakes from Egypt and couscous from North Africa. Arab cooking underwent a transformation. Now they were dining on spices from India and China, apples from Syria, raisins from Jerusalem. and exotic fruits, such as  apricots, from Central Asia. And this all went into their dishes. This, in turn, was transferred to Spain with their conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Eventually, this was co-opted by the Crusaders, who took it back to Europe, and introduced strange and fascinating new recipes from the Holy Land.

Which leads to the current recipe listed. A round-about historical perspective, I admit, but a damn good meal for any occasion. And one which I know you will enjoy.

LAMB SHANKS WITH APRICOTS

4 lamb shanks
1/2 cup flour
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon garlic powder
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup sliced dried apricots
2 tablespoons honey 
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2  teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
3 tablespoons vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Rinse lamb shanks under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a plate, combine the flour with the salt, pepper, oregano and garlic powder. Dredge the shanks in the flour.
3. Heat olive oil over moderate heat in a large pan or skillet. Add shanks and brown on all sides.
4. Add chicken broth, cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes.
5. Add remaining ingredients, bring to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes. Lower heat, cover and simmer for an additional 30 minutes. or until shanks are tender.
   Yield: 4 servings.  

Lamb Curry

I’m a fan of curries; mainly because I like fragrant and spicy dishes. Coming from a Latino culture, this is a given. The origin of curry dishes is India. It is the Tamil word for “sauce.” Today we think of it more as a seasoned gravy. This is thanks to our British brethren who, during the 18th century, adopted the ides of curry, modified it, and made it an international dish.

Curry also has a history in Pakistan and Thailand. Indian curry is made with a mixture known as masala. This comes from the Hindi word for “spice.” It’s a combination of spices such as garlic, ginger, onions, and chili paste. While Thai curry is made from a paste of chilies, herbs and vegetables. Today, curries are popular world-wide.

Below is my recipe for lamb curry. Let me note that curry is usually served with plain boiled rice. This time around I served it on a bed of tubettini noodles.

LAMB CURRY

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and slice into thin rings
1 clove garlic, finely minced
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb
1 tablespoon garam masala
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
2 tomatoes, rinsed and chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2/3 cup chicken bouillon
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 1/4 cups unflavored yogurt

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet or pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until soft and translucent. Add garlic and cook about 1 minute (do not let garlic brown).
2. Add ginger, lamb, garam masala and chili powder. Cook, stirring, until the lamb is browned.
3. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, bouillon, salt and pepper, and half the yogurt. Cover and simmer over low heat until meat is tender (about 30 minutes). Stir in the remaining yogurt and serve on a bed of pasta or rice.
   Yield: 4 servings.    

Basic White Sauce

It mazes me how many folks have trouble making a basic white sauce. To some it’s the easiest thing in the world. To others it is not. And I concede to the latter viewpoint. What is seemingly the easiest thing to make can turn into a holy mess. Too much flour and it’s lumpy. Too much milk or cream and it’s runny. Where is the happy medium? The French term for a basic white sauce is béchamel. Leave it to the French to fancy up something so simple. However, there are some things worth noting about this preparation. Almost all experts in the know agree on one basic point: when adding milk to the  flour, the milk must be hot. This guarantees a perfectly smooth sauce. So take the time to heat up the milk in an extra pot if you have to. That means warming the milk over low heat until it forms little bubbles.

A basic white sauce, despite its humble origins, can enliven almost any dish. It can turn leftovers into marvelous entrées. Add it to scrambled eggs and you have a whole different meal. It can enhance everything from mac n’ cheese, to potato salad, to lasagna.

This is the Rivera family’s basic white sauce recipe. An old stand-by that’s been with us for generations, most likely through trial and error; and hopefully, will continue to grace our kitchen for generations to come.

BASIC WHITE SAUCE

2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Dash of paprika

1. In a cup or small bowl, make a paste of the flour with 2 tablespoons of the milk.
2. Combine with remaining ingredients in a saucepan.
3. Cook over low heat, stirring continuously, until thickened.
    Yield: 1 cup 

Variations: If desired, you can add 1-2 tablespoons butter to the ingredients in the saucepan for a richer sauce. If you want to make it a cheese sauce, add 1/2 cup of your favorite grated cheese during cooking.

Pot Roast Redux

I’ve always been a fan of the Sunday pot roast dinner. When I was growing up in Spanish Harlem, we called it carne mechada. But it was essentially the same as what you would find in New England, a 3-4 pound roast cooked  in a Dutch oven over moderate heat with potatoes, carrots or whatever. Only difference was that ours was more highly seasoned as per Caribbean taste. Also, due to economics, we usually cooked a boneless chuck roast; and when times were good it would be bottom round beef or eye round. If you’re looking for a traditional carne mechada recipe you can check my post from 02/27/13.

Recently I was looking through old stacks of cookbooks, and I cam across this gem: 250 Ways To Prepare Meat. It was a fifty cent catalogue published by Consolidated Book Publishers in 1971. It had a basic “Beef Pot Roast” recipe that utilized yes, table fat, for browning the meat. That’s how far back this recipe goes. It’s an endearing recipe, and quite delicious. I can imagine many a home in America in those days cooking this classic. Thus below, I give the recipe word-for word, as noted in the original. Only exception is that I took the liberty of adding carrots to the mix. This is probably the way your grandparents prepared the Sunday roast. If you don’t want to use table fat, you can always substitute vegetable, canola, or olive oil.

BEEF POT ROAST

3- to 4-pound beef arm or blade pot roast
1 tablespoon flour
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 onion, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons fat
1/2 water or stock

Combine flour, salt and pepper. Dredge meat with mixture. Brown meat and onion in fat, pour off drippings and add a small amount of water or stock. Cover tightly, simmer 3 to 4 hours or until tender, adding more water if needed. One half hour before done, add potatoes. Serves 6.

Sofrito | Spanish Rice

Sofrito is ubiquitous in Caribbean cooking. One could safely say that Puerto Rican cuisine would be wanting without it. It is an aromatic mix of herbs and spices that is a base for cooking countless criollo dishes. This concept can be found in other cultures as well. One example is the Indian mix called garam masala which is also used as a base flavoring. Or kimchi, the fermented cabbage condiment, so popular in Korean cooking. The word sofrito is a generic term that has no correct English translation. “Frito” in Spanish means fried. Sofrito could be taken to mean stir-fried. Although this would not be entirely accurate. As the recipe shows, sofrito can be whipped up in a few moments’ time in a blender or food processor. And it can be stored in a closed tight jar the refrigerator for three to four days or, in the freezer compartment, indefinitely.
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Alcapurrias De Yuca

Alcapurrias De YucaThe American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language describes cassava as a tropical American plant with a starchy root from which tapioca is derived. To us Latinos from the Caribbean, it’s yuka (yoo-ka). Yuka is most commonly served peeled and boiled with a bit of olive oil sprinkled on top. But it also yields a bitter or sweet starch known as manioc which is used in the making of farina and, of course, tapioca. For those interested in arcane terminology, manioc is a word of Tupian origin, attributed to the Tupis, a group of American Indian tribes living along the coast of Brazil and the Amazon River valley. To explorers from the Old World, this new food was a wonder.

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