This recipe is probably Arabic in nature. Which means its original providence is Persia, or modern day Iraq. In the seventh century, Muslim armies conquered Persia, and the Arabs moved their capital from Damascus in Syria to Baghdad, the heart of the former Persian empire. And thus began the great change in Arabic cooking. The desert Arabs had subsisted on sheep’s milk, barley, mutton and dates. In contrast, the caliphs of Baghdad enjoyed truffles from the Arabian Desert, cakes from Egypt and couscous from North Africa. Arab cooking underwent a transformation. Now they were dining on spices from India and China, apples from Syria, raisins from Jerusalem. and exotic fruits, such as apricots, from Central Asia. And this all went into their dishes. This, in turn, was transferred to Spain with their conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Eventually, this was co-opted by the Crusaders, who took it back to Europe, and introduced strange and fascinating new recipes from the Holy Land.
Which leads to the current recipe listed. A round-about historical perspective, I admit, but a damn good meal for any occasion. And one which I know you will enjoy.
LAMB SHANKS WITH APRICOTS
4 lamb shanks
1/2 cup flour
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon garlic powder
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup sliced dried apricots
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
3 tablespoons vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1. Rinse lamb shanks under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a plate, combine the flour with the salt, pepper, oregano and garlic powder. Dredge the shanks in the flour.
3. Heat olive oil over moderate heat in a large pan or skillet. Add shanks and brown on all sides.
4. Add chicken broth, cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes.
5. Add remaining ingredients, bring to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes. Lower heat, cover and simmer for an additional 30 minutes. or until shanks are tender.
Yield: 4 servings.
Sofrito is ubiquitous in Caribbean cooking. One could safely say that Puerto Rican cuisine would be wanting without it. It is an aromatic mix of herbs and spices that is a base for cooking countless criollo dishes. This concept can be found in other cultures as well. One example is the Indian mix called garam masala which is also used as a base flavoring. Or kimchi, the fermented cabbage condiment, so popular in Korean cooking. The word sofrito is a generic term that has no correct English translation. “Frito” in Spanish means fried. Sofrito could be taken to mean stir-fried. Although this would not be entirely accurate. As the recipe shows, sofrito can be whipped up in a few moments’ time in a blender or food processor. And it can be stored in a closed tight jar the refrigerator for three to four days or, in the freezer compartment, indefinitely.
The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language describes cassava as a tropical American plant with a starchy root from which tapioca is derived. To us Latinos from the Caribbean, it’s yuka (yoo-ka). Yuka is most commonly served peeled and boiled with a bit of olive oil sprinkled on top. But it also yields a bitter or sweet starch known as manioc which is used in the making of farina and, of course, tapioca. For those interested in arcane terminology, manioc is a word of Tupian origin, attributed to the Tupis, a group of American Indian tribes living along the coast of Brazil and the Amazon River valley. To explorers from the Old World, this new food was a wonder.
Coquito is what my folks called Puerto Rican moonshine. And they were not too far off the mark. Coquito is a made at home in the traditional way, mainly for special gatherings. Some people liken coquito to potent homemade eggnog. And it can be very strong, or very mild, depending on how much rum you put into it.
Mofongo, I love the word. It’s pronounced just like it’s spelled. A popular Caribbean dish but undoubtedly of African origin. Basic mofongo is simply a mixture of crushed plantains with fried pork crackling served with a sauce. In the Puerto Rican version, we prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball which is served in a bowl. More modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish, or meal on its own.
I do not know what salmorejo means. Neither does anyone else in my family. My Uncle Carlos surmised that it was a word native to Puerto Rico that can be roughly translated as a “salad.” Perhaps. There are many crab salmorejo recipes. In some instances, sweet chili and capers are added. Our version is simple and no nonsense. The only liberty I’ve taken is in adding a little white wine. May not be exactly criollo*, but it supplies a bit of dash.
This dish came along, like many others through experimentation and the process of experimentation doesn’t have to stop here. Fresh parsley can be substituted for the cilantro, if you want a less defined taste. Some folks prefer fresh lemon juice in place of the vinegar. Again, let your palate be your guide. Traditionally, we serve fish steaks with root plants (bianda) or boiled green bananas (guineos).