Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: #food

CHICKEN MAYONNAISE

One of the most famous restaurants in American history is Delmonico’s, which gained its fame during the so-called Gilded Age (from about the late 1870s to the late 1890s). At that time, Delmonico’s was and is a place where the rich and the famous came to dine and be seen. By the way, it is still around at its historic location at 56 Beaver Street (at the corner of Beaver and William streets).  During the 1880’s its head chef was Charles Ranhofer, who created several famous dishes. Among these are Lobster Newberg, Eggs benedict and the Delmonico Steak (a thick cut of ribeye). Yet one of the unique dishes in the April 1899 Delmoinico’s menu held by the New York Public Library is ‘Chicken Mayonnaise.’ When you come to think of it, it’s a great combo: chicken breasts lathered with mayo then baked. Nothing could be simpler or more satisfying. A rich, delicious entrée.

The recipe itself is simple enough, but I tweaked it since my purview is Puerto Rican cuisine. I omitted the cheese (either Parmesan or cheddar) that is usually listed in the recipe and instead added sazón (or sasón), an ingredient popular in Puerto Rican and Latino cuisine. Goya products make a pretty good version as does Sa-són Ac’cent and Bodega Badia. It usually comes in 0.17-ounce packets If you don’t have or cannot find sazôn, you can substitute a ¼ teaspoon of turmeric. Also, in some recipes the chicken is pounded with a mallet between two sheets of plastic wrap to flatten them. I do not flatten the chicken breasts. Instead, I slice them in half lengthwise and then bake. Which means you have four servings using two breasts. Or eight servings using four chicken breasts. Your choice, depending on how many people you’re feeding at a given time.

Let me add, for the record, that I came across this historical tidbit from the Winter edition of Repast Magazine, a quarterly publication of the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor (https//culinaryhistoriansannarbor.org). They are a wonderful organization that record almost anything and everything that has to do with fine food.

So, enjoy this recipe. I served it with orzo, a small pasta that resembles a large shape of rice. If you prefer rice, then go with that. Or you can substitute any favorite grain such as quinoa, millet or couscous. Have fun.

MAYONNAISE CHICKEN (Nuyorican version)

Ingredients:

4 (4-oz) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
¼ teaspoon black pepper or to taste
1 packet  sazôn seasoning

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
  2. Rinse chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place them in a lightly greased baking dish (we prefer cast-iron)
  3. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, black pepper and sazón.
  4.  Spread the mayonnaise mixture evenly over the top of each chicken breast.
  5. Bake for 20-30 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a breast reads 165 degrees F.
    Yield: 6-8 servings (see above).

HAMBURGERS WITH PICKLES

 

I’m always on the lookout for a good hamburger recipe and, luckily, I came across a burger preparation I had from years ago. For the record, it was a burger recipe from the old 60-Minute Gourmet column in the New York Times by renown chef Pierre Franay. He called it “A German Touch for Ground Beef.” The recipe is essentially, Hamburger with Pickles. Obviously, this is not a Nuyorican dish. Yet the ingredients and preparation mirror how we make Hamburgesa Criollo, or Creole Burgers. You can find a recipe for Creole Burgers in my first cookbook, Puerto Ruican Cuisine in America (Running Press). So, go at it with this recipe. No fuss, no mess, just add finely chopped dill pickles to the ground beef, and there you have it.

Unique about this dish is that it can served as dinner with a side like say, rice, couscous. potatoes or a favorite vegetable. In this case we used sliced tomatoes as a garnish. Also note that, in the original recipe, it called for corn, peanut or vegetable oil for frying. I used olive oil and the tase was great. Again, you’re choice.

This time around, elevate the humble hamburger to the center a fine meal. It won’t disappoint.

HAMBURGERS WITH PICKLES

1½ pound ground beef
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon corn, peanut or vegetable oil (I used olive oil, see above)
½ finely chopped onions
4 tablespoons breadcrumbs
½ cup finely chopped dill pickles
½ teaspoon finely minced garlic
Salt to taste if desired
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/3 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons finely chopped parley

Instructions:

  1. Put the meat in a mixing bowl.
  2. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a small saucepan of skillet and add half the onions. Cook, stirring, until wilted. Cool briefly.
  3. Add the cooked onions to the meat, Add the breadcrumbs, pickles, garlic, salt and pepper, and blend thoroughly with the hands.
  4. Divide the mixture into four equal portions and shape each into a patty about 1 inch thick.
  5. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet and when it is very hot add the patties. Cook over moderate heat about 5 minutes or until nicely browned on one side. Turn the patties and cook 2 minutes or to the desired degree of doneness on the other side. Transfer the patties to a warm platter. Pour off the fat from the skillet and add the butter. When it is hot and melted add the remaining onions. Cook, stirring, until wilted and add the vinegar, stirring. Cook about 45 seconds and stir in the sour cream. Stir and heat without bringing to the boil. Pour the sauce over the patties. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 

EGGS GOLDENROD

Eggs Goldenrod combines eggs with a basic white sauce. It makes for a delicious breakfast or, better yet, a fabulous brunch.  All you need is hard- boiled eggs; and the sauce takes a few minutes to prepare. Combine it all, and you have a special dish. Classic cuisine at its finest.

EGGS GOLDENROD

Ingredients:

4 hard boiled eggs
4 slices toasted bread
2 cups white sauce
2 medium-to large tomatoes, sliced into garnish pieces (four for each plate)
1/3 cup chopped scallions

Ingredients: (For the Sauce)

4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk

Instructions:

  1. Boil the eggs in water to cover by at least one inch until done. I find that the best way to accomplish this involves bringing the water to a boil, removing from heat, covering the pot and letting the eggs sit in the hot water for 12 minutes. Then drain, rinse eggs under cold running water and peel, which involves cracking the eggs against the pan or a hard surface and peeling so that the shell slides off easily. Some folks still prefer the old=fashioned way to boil eggs. This involves bringing eggs to a boil, cover pot and simmer for 20 minutes to a half hour, then peeling. Go with what works best for you. After eggs are done and peeled, cut in half and remove yolks with a knife or spoon.
  2. While eggs are cooking, make white sauce: Melt butter in a pan or skillet over low heat. Add flour and blend well with a fork or wire whisk. Sitr in milk and, as it cooks, bring slowly to a boiling point, stirring constantly until it forms a smooth sauce.
  3.  Chop whites of eggs very fine and add to the hot white sauce.
  4.  Chop egg yolks very fine.
  5.  Place toast on individual plates. Pour sauce over the toast.
  6. Garnish with the yolks on top, along with tomatoes around toast. Top with scallions and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

MARINATED SKIRT STEAK

This was our Holiday Dinner with friends. We had a juicy 3.5 pound skirt steak that looked more convenient by roasting in the oven This was hefty piece of meat, and we decided to marinate it first, then bake. The marinade recipe we got from Templeton Farm, a local place in East Montpelier Vermont that raises grass-fed beef (templetonfarmvt@gmailcom). The recipe itself is simple enough: Just sear the meat and bake. It was heavenly and paired well with mashed potatoes.

Ler me add that this recipe can also go well with pot roast, or any large piece of beef. You can also do it with individual steaks. As stated many times before, you are only limited by your imagination. So, go beyond it.

MRINATED SKIRT STEAK

Ingredients:

Skirt Steak, about 3.5 pounds (can use boneless chuck or pot roast)
¼cup maple syrup
¼ cup soy sauce
¼cup Worcestershire sauce
¼  cider vinegar
¼cup olive oil (just pour prior to baking in oven)

Instructions:

  1. Marinate meat in a glass container or plastic bag in the refrigerator for several hours or up to 2 days.
  2. Preheat oven to 425 degree F.
  3. While oven is heating, pour olive oil over meat. Place meat in a baking pan or skillet and, over high-medium heat, sear meat on both sides for 2 minutes.
  4. Place in oven and bake. Be aware that skirt steak cooks fast, so flip after 4 minutes, focusing on reaching an internal temperature of 130 degrees F. (for medium rare) using an instant-read thermometer. You can bake it a few minutes longer (about 10-15 minutes total) for medium well or well-done. Do not overcook. Remember, as stated above, skirt steak cooks fast and can get tough if overdone.
  5. Remove from oven and let for 5-10 minutes for juicy results. When serving, slice against the grain,
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

CORDER0 SALTEADO (Stir-Fried lamb or Lamb Stir-Fry)

As you can see in the title above, this recipe is simply, Stir-fried Lamb or Lamb Stir-Fry. The nomenclature I leave up to you. Or you can call it Carne Salteada (Stir-Fried Meat) since you can use beef, pork turkey or chicken instead of ground lamb for the dish. So, why did we use ground lamb? Because that’s what we had on hand. This comes from experience. Back on the block in Spanish Harlem, when times were lean, we had to go with what was available. I figure, given today’s economy and the Mad Man in the White House cutting off all benefits to working folks so he can procure tax cuts for his billionaire friends, you get what I mean by “lean times.”. So, we have to be innovative in terms of our foodstuff.  Enough of my irrational ravings. Just give this one a try. It goes great, as we served it, with rigatoni; but you can substitute rice, couscous or your favorite grain. With a good loaf of crusty bread and a good red wine (or white) you’ll have a banquet.

Note that in this recipe we used a condiment common to Nuyorican cuisine. This is sazón, an ingredient that enhances flavor and gives color to any dish (except dessert). Goya make a good one. But there are other brands out there like Spice Supreme, which makes one they call Sazón Everything, or Badia Sazón Tropical. Whichever you use will be okay. Mainly it’s a mix of coriander and annatto seeds. For the record, annatto seeds come from the achiote tree and are used as both a natural food coloring and a spice. They impart a yellow- orange to red color to foods and have a mild, earthy, and slightly peppery flavor.

CORDERO SALTEADO
(Stir-Fried Lamb)

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound ground lamb
1 medium potato, washed and cut into small bite-sized pieces (do not peel)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon chives
¼ teaspoon herbes de provence
1 packet sasόn
¾ cup water
1 teaspoon cornstarch

Instructions:

  1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet or frypan.
  2. Add ground lambs and stir-fry until lamb is evenly browned and no pink remains, about 6 minutes.
  3. Stir in potato, salt, pepper, chives, herbes de provence and packet of sazón.
  4. Add water mixed with cornstarch. Stir to combine, lower heat and simmer until lamb is done and potato pieces are tender, about 10 minutes more.
    Yield: 4 servings.

PARSNIP STIR-FRY

It’s wintertime here in the northeast, and if you’re seeking vegetables, you have to go with what you’re got. So, I came across parsnips in the local market. For the record, I normally do not cook parsnips. I do know that it’s a comestible you either love or hate. But it’s a winner—if it is done properly.  Like the way we did it, in a sauce.

I decided to stir-fry the bunch of parsnips I got. Parsnips can also be boiled or roasted. But, to me, stir-frying brings out its natural flavor. They become sweet and delicious when prepared this way. And we served them with bucatini, a hardy string pasta. But you can use spaghetti, or tubular pasta like macaroni or penne. Or skip the pasta and use rice, or couscous. Whatever you decide, you can’t go wrong with this marvelous root vegetable. Also, I added raisins to this recipe. That gives parsnips an added dimension that enliven the taste buds.

Note that there are about 4 medium parsnips in a pound. Thus, to be on the safe side, figured two pounds should be enough for a dinner of 4-6 people. Again, use your judgment and common sense. Do not be troubled, the recipe will come out delicious and memorable. Even those who hate parsnips, and by that I mean kids, will come out loving this dish.

PARSNIP STIR-FRY

Ingredients:

2 pounds parsnips (about 8 medium-sized to large parsnips)
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 cup water or broth (either chicken or beef, your choice)
Salt to taste
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ ground coriander
¼  teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon black raisins

Instructions:

  1. Peel parsnips and slice into bite-sized pieces, either rounds or matchsticks, you’re choice. Be aware that rounds will take longer to cook, where matchsticks will be done sooner.
  2. Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in a large fry pan or skillet.
  3. Add Parsnips and garlic, and stir-fry until parsnips are slightly browned, about 2-3 minutes.
  4. Add water or broth, salt, oregano, coriander, turmeric and raisins. Cover, lower heat and simmer until parsnip’s are soft and caramelized, about 5-7 minutes. This is where their juices and sweetness will become apparent. Also, while cooking, you can add a little more water, mixed with cornstarch, if the sauce is too thin.
    Yield: 4-6 servings

 

BÓCOLI CON CURRY (Curried Broccoli)

Recently I had some vegetarian friends over for dinner. Being a meat eater, I asked myself, “What the hell do I do now?” Luckily, I had some broccoli on hand and then I thought, how about how about doing a curry sauce with it? Thus, was born Brócoli con Curry, or Curried Broccoli. Think of it as a new take on Nuyorican cuisine. Let me add that the perfect accompaniment to this dish is rice; but you can substitute couscous, quinoa or pasta, either tubular like penne or string like spaghetti or linguini. The choice is endless. I think you’re gonna like this one.

BRÓCOLI CON CURRY
(Curried Broccoli)

Ingredients:

1 medium to large head of broccoli, about 2 pounds (can use frozen if can’t find fresh)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1½ cups broth or water
1 teaspoon curry powder (or more to taste)

Instructions:

  1. Rinse broccoli under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut into florets.
  2. Heat oil in large skillet or frypan over medium -high heat
  3.  Add onion and garlic and stir-fry until onion is soft and translucent.
  4.  Mix water with curry powder and add to broccoli. Stir to mix, cover, lower heat and cook until broccoli is tender, about 7 minutes.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

SALMON AL VAPOR (Steamed Salmon)

 

Steaming is a great a deficient way to cook food. Following that vein, today we give you Steamed Salmon. And it’s not as difficult as it seems.  If you have a regulate streamer, then it’s a cinch. Same if you have a bamboo steamer, again no problem. This also works well with a wok. But what if you don’t have a steamer or a wok? Then we improvise. Simple, take a big pan or kettle, place an 8-ounce can of tomato sauce in the bottom of it, fill it up with water until it reaches the height of the can, place the salmon fillets on a dish atop the tomato can, bring to boil, cover and cook until the salmon fillets are done.  Salmon fillets usually take 7-10 minutes to cook depending upon the size and thickness the fillets.  Check for doneness. If it flakes easily, then the fillet is done. This dish goes great with boiled rice, couscous, quinoa or your favorite pasta product, such as orzo or penner. We felt adventurous so we paired it with French fries. Again, it’s your show, so use whatever works.

That’s it. Try something new today: Steam rather than frying your fish. It’s a healthier choice I’m told, and just as delicious. Enjoy.

Ingredients:

4 salmon fish fillets, about 6-ounce each
¾ teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons white wine (dry or sweet, your choice)
4 tablespoons butter

Instructions:

  1. Rinse fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  2. Season thoroughly on both sides with garlic powder, salt, pepper and oregano.
  3. Arrange on a plate, drizzle wine over fillets. Place fillets in steamer. Fill steamer with water, bring to a boil, cover and stream 7-10 minutes until fillets are done (they should flake easily with a fork).
    Yield: 4 servings.

Cordera con Achiote (Lamb with Achiote)

This dish is a favorite both back on the Island, and for Nuyoricans on the mainland. The main ingredient is Achiote, or ground annatto seeds.  So, what the hell is Achiote? What’s this annatto business? Well, annatto seeds are small, brick red seeds from the tropical achiote tree used as a natural food coloring and flavoring in Caribbean, Mexican and Filipino cuisine. In our cooking, they impart a yellow to deep orange color and a mild, and peppery flavor to dishes like rice and meat. The seeds can also be ground into a powder or paste. We mixed it with olive oil to enhance food and give it color, as we did it with lamb in this recipe. Paired with rice, potatoes or pasta, or, as we did it, with couscous. it makes for a delicious and memorable meal. 

Nore that for this recipe, 4 lamb chops give you 2 servings. You can double the recipe for 4 servings if desired. Le me add that today achiote can be found in most supermarkets, or specialty stores, either in seeds or ground powder form.

CORDERA CON ACHIOTE
(Lamb with Achiote)

Ingredients:

4 lamb loin or rid chops (1-inch thick)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
¼ teaspoon oregano
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon achiote (or more to taste)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons white wine (dry or sweet, your choice)

Instructions:

  1. Season chops thoroughly on both side with salt, pepper, oregano. garlic powder and achiote.
  2. Hest olive oil in a pan or skillet (we prefer cast iron) over moderate-high heat. Add chops and cook for 3-4 minutes on each side.
  3.  Add butter and, as it melts, spoon it over each of the lamb chops for about 5 minutes.
  4.  Sprinkle wine over chops. Turn heat to high and sizzle chops with the wine until evaporated.
  5.  Remove chops from pan and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

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