Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: Tablespoon (page 3 of 3)

Avocados for Summer

Yesterday In New York, the temperature reached 104 degrees F.—and that was the mean temperature, not the heat index (which was probably 112-114 degrees). Today, we’re told, ain’t going to be much better. With heat like that, the idea of cooking anything is out of the question. Even lighting up the old grill seems onerous. So what better way to fight heat and hunger than with AVOCADOS! Yes, that delicious fruit. That’s right, it’s a fruit, not a vegetable.

In my family we’ve consumed avocados forever. And not only as guacamole. We have it with eggs for breakfast; or in sandwiches for dinner. Mainly we eat it anywhere with a dash of salt and pepper. Avocados are perfect for summer since they need no cooking. Just peeled, remove the pit, slice, drizzle with a little olive oil and salt, and there you have it. But more, avocados and perfect for salads.

Avocados were introduced from Mexico to California in the 19th century, where they proliferated and became an extremely successful cash crop. In fact, Fallbrook, California, claims to be the “Avocado capital of the world.” The most common type of California avocado is the Hass variety, which is found everywhere these days. In my clan we like the Mexican /Guantemalan breeds life the Fuerte or Mexicola. These are bigger, have a smooth green skin and, to my palette, a richer nuttier flavor. But our prefer variety are those from Florida (like the type called Spinks)  which are larger, rounder, with a smoother flavor.

Avocados got their name from Spanish Explorers who couldn’t pronounce the Aztec word for it: “ahuacatl” or “testicle” (because of its pear shape appearance). The Spanish mispronounced it as “aguacate.”

Below are 3 quickie  avocado salad recipes, all from my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books: Thunders Mouth Press). Now, the main question: how can you tell when an avocado is ripe? Simple. It’s outer skin will yield to gentle thumb or finger pressure. Eat ripe avocados right away. If they are green and hard, store in a cool place a day or two before using. If you want it to ripen faster, put the avocado in a brown paper bag.

1) GAZPACHO DE AGUACATE:  In a bowl, combine 1 large ripe tomato, diced; 1 medium cucumber, diced; 1/2 medium green bell pepper, seeded and diced; 1 small onion, finely sliced; 2 cloves garlic, minced; 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley; 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or 1/2 teaspoon dried; 3 tablespoons olive oil; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1/4 teaspoon oregano;  salt and ground black pepper to taste. Mix well and let stand in the refrigerator for15 minutes. Take 3 fully ripened avocados,  cut in halve; and place an avocado half on a salad plate with a bed of crisp lettuce leaves. Fill each avocado half with the vegetable mixture and serve. 6 servings.

2) ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y HONGO: In a mixing bowl, combine 3 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 2 cloves minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Add  1/2 pound fresh mushrooms,  washed and thinly sliced. Mix well. Cut an avocado in half; and cut each half into 1-inch cubes. Add to mushrooms and blend gently. Serve immediately. 4 servings.

3) ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y JUEYES: In a bowl, combine 1 pound fresh lump crabmeat, 1 cup mayonaise, juice of 1/2 lemon, 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion,1 minced clove garlic, 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Mix lightly. Cut 2 ripe avocados into slender wedges and squeeze juice of  remaining 1/2 lemon over the avocado to prevent discoloration. Place crabmeat in the center of a serving platter. Arrange avocado wedges along with slices of 2 medium tomatoes, alternately, around the crabmeat. Sprinkle avocado and tomatoes with salt; garnish with a few parsley springs and serve.4 servings.

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Grilled Whole Fish

Almost mid-summer, and the grill nuts are proliferating. But how about something unique and different besides the usual steak, hot dogs and franks? I know, some of you adventurous types have even taking to grilling lamb and pork chops. But how about a whole fish? Huh? What you say? Yes, barbecuing a whole fish. In Greece this is a very common procedure. It ain’t that hard, kiddies. And the ingenuity and combination of flavors will leave your guests wanting for more.

Any firm fleshed fish will do, bass, striped bass, flounder, rockfish, blue fish, monk fish, or fresh water trout. Have the fishmonger (or fish guy) clean and gut the fish, but with the head kept intact.

In terms of the grill, make sure it’s well oiled. Soak a paper towel with canola or vegetable oil, then wipe the grill with it before cooking the fish.  This will prevent the burning or sticking of fish to the grill. Also, while grilling, some recommend sprinkling lemon juice over the fish to keep it moist.

So, guys, try grilling something out of the ordinary. Take that leap forward and expand your horizons. Become a real connoisseur of the grill. Besides, fish is brain food. Can’t go wrong with that.

GRILLED WHOLE FISH

1 cup diced ripe tomatoes
1/2 cup diced chopped fresh basil leaves
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
Ground black pepper to taste
Salt to taste
1 large whole fish or 2 smaller ones, 2 to 3 pound total
1 small lemon, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1 bay leaf

1. In a bowl, combine tomatoes, basil, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, garlic powder and oregano. Season to taste with black pepper. Let it sit at room temperature while you prepare the fish.
2. Preheat grill to medium high. Do not use high heat while cooking. High heat will burn the fish on the outside, while leaving the center uncooked.
3. With a sharp knife make 3 or 4 diagonal slashes on each side of the fish. This helps the fish cook evenly. Sprinkle salt liberally over the fish.  Rub the fish in and out with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Now, here we have a difference of opinion. Some experts state that no other seasoning should be added since other seasonings, like pepper, will burn on  the grill, and give the fish a bitter taste. Other experts  state that seasoning the fish with additional  pepper, oregano and other spices will enhance the taste. This is your call. If you want it well seasoned, go with it. If not, save the seasonings for the end.
5. Stuff the inside of the fish with lemon slices, garlic, and bay leaf.
4. Place and cook the fish on the grill about 10 minutes. Rule of thumb is fish should cook 8-10 minutes per inch of thickness. Turn and cook the other side 8-10 minutes. It’s best, when turning, to gently flip the fish over with 2 spatulas or one long one.
5. Fish is cooked when exterior is crisp and meat will flake easily with a fork. Carefully lift off the grill and set on a platter.
6. Serve fish topped with the tomato-basil mixture.
    Yield: 4 servings.

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Boricua Trukey


Last year at about this time I posted The Puerto Rican Thanksgiving Turkey. Our version of the holiday bird. I noted that we spice it differently and make it more flavorful so that it tastes like roasted pork, or pernil, the main holiday staple back on the island in the days of yore.

Here it is again, turkey a la criolla (creole style). A note on the term “Boricua.” A Boricua (bo-ree-kuah) is an inhabitant of the island of Borinquen, the native Taino Indian name for Puerto Rico. Hence a Boricua is a native born Puerto Rican. However, these days we take the term to mean anyone of Puerto Rican descent, whether they were born on the island or not.

PAVO RELLENO A LA CRIOLLA
(Stuffed Roast Turkey)

1 8 1/2-pound dressed-weight turkey
5 cloves garlic, peeled
6 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
4 teaspoons salt
1 cup olive oil
4 tablespoons paprika
1/4 cup vinegar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2-pounds lean ground beef
1 packet sason accent (Goya makes a good one with coriander and annatto)
1/2 cup stuffed Spanish olives
4 tablespoons capers
1/2 cup tomato sauce

1. Rinse and wash turkey, inside and out, and wipe dry. Do the same with the heart, liver and gizzard, and then chop innards coarsely. This will be combined with the ground beef when preparing the stuffing.
2. Pound together the garlic, peppercorns, oregano and 3 teaspoons salt in a mortar. Add 1/2 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons paprika, vinegar and combine. Rub the turkey with the seasoning inside and out—what my mother calls “adobar el pavo” (seasoning the beast). This should be done a day ahead (the turkey should be left overnight, in a covered pot, in the refrigerator). This will allow it to absorb the flavors.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or skillet. Add the ground beef and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the meat loses its color. Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in the sason accent, olives, capers, tomato sauce and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to complete cooking the stuffing.
4. Remove from heat and let cool. Stuff the turkey loosely about three quarters full. Truss the turkey (sew or skewer together the neck and bind the legs.)
5. Place the turkey in a roasting pan breast side down. To insure a golden brown exterior combine the remaining 2 tablespoons paprika with the remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the entire turkey with this mixture and roast in a slow to moderate oven (325 degrees F.) for 3 1/2 hours. To brown bird, raise temperature to 350 degrees during the last 25 minutes of cooking. This is an excellent way of cooking if in doubt as to the tenderness of the meat. Some people prefer covering the turkey with aluminum foil while roasting, and removing this during the last 25-30 minutes of cooking time to brown the skin. I find that frequent basting during cooking gets the same results.
Baking theories abound. There is the old traditionalist view that allows 1 1/2 hours for the first pound and then 25 minutes per pound up to 7 pounds and 20 minutes per pound after that. Thus a 5 pound bird would take 3 hours and 10 minutes, a 7 pounder would take 4 hours and 10 minutes, and a 10 pound bird 5 hours and 10 minutes. But in my view, there’s no set rule. Some birds take more time to roast, some less. In the Rivera family we go by general common sense: figure a 7 to 8 pounder takes 3 1/2 to 4 hours to cook; a 10 pounder maybe 4 1/2 hours, and a 12 pound turkey maybe 5-5 1/2 hours. Rule of thumb: turkey is done when drumstick and thigh move easily.
6. For gravy: remove turkey from roasting pan and keep warm. Drain drippings from roasting pan into a sauce pan. Skim off fat but retain 1/4 cup of the drippings. Add 2 cups water or 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 1/2 cups water to pan drippings. Bring to a boil over high heat while stirring in the 1/4 cup fat. Lower heat and thicken slightly with a little cornstarch and water combined. If you want to reduce the grease content, mix 3 teaspoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of water. Add this to the strained pan drippings and heat, thereby omitting the remaining fat content.
Yield: 6 to 7 servings.
Note: serve with a light Valpolicella wine, lightly chilled; a full-bodied red such as a Zinfandel or Rioja; a white Burgundy with a full and flowery bouquet; or even a good-bodied ale.

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