Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: Vermont

Red Flannel Hash

My wife and I normally spend the holidays with friends in Vermont, where it gets COLD. And I mean COLD, like 30 degrees below zero F. at night. You figure that in a climate like this they like good, filling food. And one of the most popular dishes in Vermont, or so the locals tell me, is Red Flannel Hash. Now, I never heard of such fare until I came here. I know about corned beef hash, the great staple for Saint Patrick’s day; and Yankee hash. But, red flannel hash? According to the locals, red flannel hash is a hearty dish that was popular with Vermont farmers in the old days. All it is is corned beef  that is fried along with beets (yes, beets), and then you top the thing with eggs poached in the dish. Why is it called “Red Flannel Hash?” Well, the beets would add the red color. Also, according to legend, farmers would wear red flannel underwear back then to ward off the cold. This, along with  beets, gave it its name. I cannot vouch for the authenticity of this, but locals here swear by it.

RED FLANNEL HASH

1/3 cup butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 cups ground or chopped corned beef
3-4 potatoes (like like red potatoes), diced small (I like them with the skins on)
3 beets, peeled and diced small
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
4-6 large eggs

1. Heat the butter in a a large skillet over medium heat (I prefer cast-iron for this task). Add onion and cook until onion is soft and translucent.
2. Add the corned beef, and cook for about 2-3 minutes. Add the potatoes, beets, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to mix, cover the pan and lower heat to medium-low. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring every few minutes until the beets become tender. As you stir, try to scrape the bottom of the pan so that the browned bits are included. Don’t worry if the potatoes begin to fall apart, that’s okay.
3. When the beets are tender, crack the eggs atop the pan. cover and let the eggs poach until done. Usually it takes about 5 minutes if you like runny eggs, or 7 minutes if you desire a firmer yolk. Remove from heat and serve, scooping onto plates.
     Yield: 4-6

Photo: courtesy of CHOW

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Papaya Preserve (A Glorious Dessert)


Back on the block, when I was coming up in the world, one of our favorite desserts was papaya, especially Dulce de Papaya, or papaya preserve. I love papayas. They are a delicate fruit whose peak season is from June until September. They are great right now. Although today, in most supermarkets, they are available year round. When papayas are green, they taste awful. But when ripe, they are delicious. Still, be aware that if too ripe they’ll dry out. You can discern ripeness by a smooth yellow color and tenderness to the touch. An overripe papaya will start to discolor. So seek out only that fruit which is mellow yet firm and unblemished.

For cooking purposes, a moderately ripe papaya will do. Some cooks say only green ones should be used for making a preserve. The problem with that is that more sugar is needed as a sweetener. I’ve discovered with the recipe given below that you can use sugar or maple syrup (which is my innovation). Since I spend my summers in Vermont, I prefer the maple syrup, which is healthier. Oh, yes, the recipe is from my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group, Running Press).

DULCE DE LECHOSA
   (Papaya Preserve)

3 medium ripe papayas, peeled, seeded, and cut into into 1/2-inch strips
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 quarts water
2 sticks cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground anise seed
1 cup maple syrup (or 2 cups sugar)

1. Place papayas in  saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and let stand 5 minutes.
2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a pot or heavy kettle but not aluminum for it will stain. Add 2 quarts water, cinnamon sticks and anise seed.
3. Bring to a boil and cook on low-to-moderate heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until tender.
4. Add maple syrup and continue cooking, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Note: if using sugar, cook until sugar is thick and syrupy.
3. Remove cinnamon sticks and allow papaya preserve to cool at room temperature.
6. Serve in a dessert bowl or store in glass jar or container in the refrigerator.
    Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of Vegetarian Times

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A Zucchini Summer

I spend my summers in Vermont, where every vegetable garden is overflowing with zucchini. It seems to grow in profusion almost everywhere. But even in my native New York it is a ubiquitous summer staple. But what to do with it? We see it in all kinds of salads, but how to liven it up? Over here they love zucchini. They eat it fresh, fried, steamed, and broiled. In my experimentation I’ve come across novel ways to prepare it. Following are two dishes that highlight zucchini as a summer salad. One is a simple creamy dill salad with lots of fresh dill; and the other entails fried zucchini slices. Either way, it’s a unique way to prepare this summer favorite.

CREAMY DILL ZUCCHINI SALAD
(Note that in this preparation you can have the zucchini, raw as is, for that crunchy texture. Or you can elect to steam the zucchini slices if you like a softer touch. Either way, it’s great.)

2 large zucchini
1 cup  thinly sliced red onion
Salt to taste
1/2 cup dill pickles, quartered and sliced into 1/2-slices
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup sour cream or yogurt
Ground black pepper to taste

1. Wash zucchini and dry with paper towels. Slice zucchini diagonally into thin rounds, and cut larger rounds in half.
2. In a bowl, combine zucchini, onion, salt, pickle slices and dill. Mix in sour cream or yogurt. Season with pepper.
    Yield: 4 servings.

FRIED ZUCCHINI SALAD
(some might regard this as a variation on what is called a scapece salad, where a marinade is used for the zucchini. In this simpler version, the marinade is omitted.)

1/4 cup olive oil (preferably extra virgin)
1 teaspoon honey
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 tablespoons toasted fennel seeds
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Vegetable, canola, or olive oil for frying
3 to 4 medium zucchini, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
1 bunch spinach (about 6 cups)
1/4 cup grated goat cheese such as manchego, or crumbled blue cheese

1. In a small bowl, which together the oil, honey, lemon juice, garlic and fennel seeds. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat (I prefer cast iron), heat about 1/4-inch oil until hot but not smoking. Place zucchini in a single layer, and fry, turning the slices once or twice with a fork. You may have to do this in batches since you do not want to crowd the skillet. Fry until the slices are golden (about 5 minutes). Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towels and set aside.
4. In a large bowl, assemble the spinach. Place zucchini slices on top. Drizzle with the dressing and toss gently. Top with the grated goat cheese or blue cheese.
    Yield: 6 servings. 

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Baked Apples

Vermont in the fall is glorious. We spend our days here in the summer and, sometimes, we come back in the fall to see the foliage with all its vivrant colors. The other thing we note is that there are apples everywhere: apples falling from tress on the roads, in back yards, on dirt paths, you name it. Here in the property where we’re at we also have apple trees. Thus, since the summer, I’ve gotten into the habit of eating apples for snacks and as dessert.

According to the medical journals, apples are good for you.  They are high in antioxidants, that substance that is good for the heart. Apples enhance lung function, help build strong bones and thus prevent osteoporosis, and provide dietary fiber (which is great for those who want to be regular, if you know what I mean). And all that without any fat or sodium.

In Vermont the locals love to make apple pies and apple cider. Those are good, but my favorite apple recipe is simple baked apples. It’s easy, and can be done with any apple variety. In our area, the usual varieties are crab apples and, what I think are red delicious. They are sweet, juicy and crisp. The recipe given is the simplest there is. Just flavor with some syrup (maple or any other syrup such as hazelnut), or plain honey, and bake. The easiest fat-free dessert.

BAKED APPLES

4 apples (any combination or whatever is available), cored, halved, and sliced thinly
5 tablespoons maple syrup or honey
Ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 375 degree.
2. Place apples in a baking dish (I prefer cast-iron).
3. Drizzle syrup or honey on apples; and dust lightly with cinnamon.
4. Bake 30 minutes or until fork tender.
    Yield: 4 servings or more.

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