Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: Wine tasting descriptors

Food with Wine

February 15, 2013 / / 0 Comments

One of the things that drive most people batty is this idea of pairing food with wine. And it can get ridiculous sometimes. There are tomes out there that try to inculcate us as to what “specific” wine goes with what food. What goes with duck a l’orange or a burger or, even pickles. When this topic comes up, I always recall one of my father’s saying: “drink whatever damn wine you want  for dinner.” I know, this is heresy with some of the more pretentious types. Yet, really, who is to say what proper wine goes with what you eat? I know, the usual canard is: white wine with fish; and red wine with meat. But, guess what, I like red wine with fish—and who is to say I’m wrong?

Of course, the concept can be taken to extremes on both accounts. My mother, bless her soul, loved to drink Manischewitz sherry with everything.That was her thing. During my youth, I had friends who, during the Jewish Seder, would drink Mogen David Heavy Malaga Red. Now, if you like Mogen David, and I do, that’s okay but, after a while, the sweetish stickiness of the wine gets to you. Luckily, like most Seders in those days, the wine was cut with seltzer water. Thank goodness today we have good, genuine Kosher table wines appropriate to the occasion. It’s a matter of common sense. Most people are not going to have a dessert wine with the entrée. That doesn’t mean you have to carry a wine bible with you everytime you go out to eat. Most of us, when we go out dining, we usually differ to the maitre d’ or, in fancier establishments, the sommelier (you know, the guy with the wine key who selects the wines). I have never gone wrong with differing to those in the know. That’ their job, That’s what they’re paid for. However, let’s say, someone invites you to dinner. You may know what the person is going to cook; but what wine to bring? To be safe, just in case, you may decide to bring a red and a white.

There are occasions when you may have to decide what wine will go with your meal and, lets be honest, most of us are not sommeliers, or had the luxury of taking a wine course. I’ve discovered, through trial and error, that there are wines which are appropriate with almost any category of food. For instance, light reds like a Barbera (dry, mellow, and full-bodied), a Gamay  (think of a light, vibrant Beaujolais) or Pinot Noir (a dry, pleasant Burgandy). They pair well with whatever is on your plate. They are not the heavy hitters like a Bordeaux, a Montepulciano, or a full-bodied Zinfandel. The ones I mentioned are mainly red quaffing wines that won’t overpower the meal or put anyone off. As for whites, you can never go wrong with a Chenin Blanc (medium-dry, soft and fruity), Sauvignon Blanc (medium-bodied, crisp and fresh; in California it is also known as Fume Blanc), or Soave (medium-dry, very refreshing). These go good with almost anything—seafood, pasta, even pork. If that doesn’t work, and you have a crowd that can’t make up it’s mind, go with the compromiser—rosé or better, still, champagne. But, whatever you do, go with your taste buds. If you like it, you got it made—no matter what anyone else says. This is America, not the Ritz.

caption: courtesy of Mail Online

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The Joys of Garlic

September 12, 2012 / / 0 Comments

Let me say it up front. I am a serious, confirmed garlic-lover. Where people hold up their noses and scowl when garlic is mentioned, I embrace the bulb with the passion of a devout believer. I come from  a culture where garlic is king. Count Dracula would have a hard time attacking us. Garlic (Latin name: Allium sativum) is a member of the onion family. It has been used throughout recorded history for both medicinal and culinary purposes. It is native to central Asia and has been around for 5,000 years. The ancient Egyptians were the first to cultivate it and it played an important role in their culture. The builders of the ancient pyramids were said to eat garlic to enhance their endurance and strength. Roman emperors were particularly fond of garlic. They used it an an antidote to poisons—something very popular at the time if you wanted to get rid of the top dog in the empire. The Spanish conquistadors used it as a preservative.

Garlic has great medicinal properties. It promotes the well being of heart function and helps maintain healthy blood circulation. One of its great health benefits is that it enhances the body’s immune cell activity. It helps regulate the body’s defenses against allergies; and helps loosen plaque from arterial walls. It also aids in regulating blood sugar levels. Not only that, it helps regulate the body’s blood pressure. So, if you have problems with high or low blood pressure, garlic can help to equalize it. The reason is that garlic contains the compound allicin, which not only lowers blood pressure, but also assists in regulating proper weight control. Garlic also reduces the risk of heart attacks and strokes. Studies have shown that two or three cloves a day have cut the risk of subsequent hearty attacks in half of heart patients. But most important of all, garlic contains germanium, an anti-cancer agent. Garlic had more of it than any other herb. Think of garlic as an anti-cancer food. All taken together, one can say that garlic is a powerful perfect natural antibiotic. As such it is effective against many bacteria, fungi and viruses. Back in the Middle Ages it was though to ward off the plague.

All the medicinal benefits aside, garlic is a wonderful seasoning. It adds aroma, taste and nutrition to foods. There is nothing better to give a dish that extra “oomph.” Yet for maximum flavor and nutritional benefits, always buy fresh garlic. Avoid garlic flakes, garlic powder and garlic paste. They ain’t as good culinarilly or otherwise.  Buy garlic that is plumb and has an unbroken skin. Then simply squeeze the bulb between your fingers to check that it feels firm and is not damp. Avoid garlic that is soft, shriveled, moldy, or that has begun to sprout. Always store garlic in an uncovered or loosely covered container in a cool dark place. These days you can purchase  garlic storage pots made of clay or marvel. They are perfect for this function. It’s not necessary to refrigerate garlic. And freezing raw garlic will reduce its flavor and change its texture.

The following is one of my favorite garlic recipes. It call for twelve cloves—that’s right: 12 cloves. Its an easy chicken dish for all us garlic fanatics out there.

CHICKEN WITH GARLIC SAUCE

1 broiler fryer chicken (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), cut up into serving-size pieces
1/3 cup olive oil
12 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced finely
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup chicken broth

1. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a medium-size skillet or frying pan (I prefer cast iron). Add chicken pieces and stir-fry until brown on all sides.
2. Add garlic and cook for about 3 minutes more. Add sesame oil, soy sauce and chicken broth.
3. Cook 5 minutes more, then lower flame to low simmer, cover, and cook 10 minutes more. Serve with steamed rice, pasta, or crusty bread.
    Yield: 4 servings. 

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A Zucchini Summer

August 2, 2012 / / 0 Comments

I spend my summers in Vermont, where every vegetable garden is overflowing with zucchini. It seems to grow in profusion almost everywhere. But even in my native New York it is a ubiquitous summer staple. But what to do with it? We see it in all kinds of salads, but how to liven it up? Over here they love zucchini. They eat it fresh, fried, steamed, and broiled. In my experimentation I’ve come across novel ways to prepare it. Following are two dishes that highlight zucchini as a summer salad. One is a simple creamy dill salad with lots of fresh dill; and the other entails fried zucchini slices. Either way, it’s a unique way to prepare this summer favorite.

CREAMY DILL ZUCCHINI SALAD
(Note that in this preparation you can have the zucchini, raw as is, for that crunchy texture. Or you can elect to steam the zucchini slices if you like a softer touch. Either way, it’s great.)

2 large zucchini
1 cup  thinly sliced red onion
Salt to taste
1/2 cup dill pickles, quartered and sliced into 1/2-slices
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup sour cream or yogurt
Ground black pepper to taste

1. Wash zucchini and dry with paper towels. Slice zucchini diagonally into thin rounds, and cut larger rounds in half.
2. In a bowl, combine zucchini, onion, salt, pickle slices and dill. Mix in sour cream or yogurt. Season with pepper.
    Yield: 4 servings.

FRIED ZUCCHINI SALAD
(some might regard this as a variation on what is called a scapece salad, where a marinade is used for the zucchini. In this simpler version, the marinade is omitted.)

1/4 cup olive oil (preferably extra virgin)
1 teaspoon honey
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 tablespoons toasted fennel seeds
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Vegetable, canola, or olive oil for frying
3 to 4 medium zucchini, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
1 bunch spinach (about 6 cups)
1/4 cup grated goat cheese such as manchego, or crumbled blue cheese

1. In a small bowl, which together the oil, honey, lemon juice, garlic and fennel seeds. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat (I prefer cast iron), heat about 1/4-inch oil until hot but not smoking. Place zucchini in a single layer, and fry, turning the slices once or twice with a fork. You may have to do this in batches since you do not want to crowd the skillet. Fry until the slices are golden (about 5 minutes). Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towels and set aside.
4. In a large bowl, assemble the spinach. Place zucchini slices on top. Drizzle with the dressing and toss gently. Top with the grated goat cheese or blue cheese.
    Yield: 6 servings. 

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Wok Cooking – Part I

May 31, 2010 / / 0 Comments


The wok is one of the oldest cooking utensils known to humankind. The Chinese have used it for centuries. Here in the West it’s gained prominence in the last generation, with more and more people applying it to their cuisine. The uses of a wok are almost limitless. It can be used as a steamer, or double broiler. It’s also good for making sauces and soups, for stewing, sauteing, smoking foods, and even baking (like egg-cake baked in a wok). But it’s most popular use is for stir-frying.

A wok is nothing more than a deeply-dished basin made of metal. Its components could be steel, aluminum, or cast-iron. These days they are even made of ceramic. I prefer the cast-iron version. Problem is, they are hard to find. You may have to go on the web or via a catalog place to get one. Once you acquire a wok, if it’s made of metal, it has to be seasoned. This ensures the wok is in prime working order. The procedure is simple enough. First, wash the wok with hot water and soap to remove the special anti-rust coating. Rinse and dry with a clean towel or paper towels. Rub the inside surface with a thick film of peanut, corn, or soybean oil. Heat the wok over low heat for about 3 to 5 minutes until the oil steams. Turn off the heat and allow the wok to cool. Wipe away excess oil with paper towels, and your wok is now ready to use. After cooking, the wok should not be washed with soap or detergent. Just rinse it with hot water and, if need be, scrub it with a plastic (not metal) pad or you can purchase special bristle scrubbing brushes sold in Chinatown or most Asian stores. Wipe wok thoroughly dry and apply a light coat of vegetable oil to keep the wok from rusting.

As to using a wok in your kitchen, in the old days woks came with a round adapter ring. You put the wok on top of the ring to balance the round surface of the wok. This made woks work well with a gas range. It did not work that well with an electric one. Today there are woks made with a flat base so that you don’t need the adapter ring. Also, the adapter ring has a tendency of leaving a burn mark on the surface of the range after constant use. That’s why I prefer using a wok without the adapter ring.

Most woks come with a spatula (wok chan) and a long spoon (siu hok), for ease of cooking. It goes without saying, you’ll also need a sharp knife or, better yet, a sharp heavy cleaver for cutting, slicing and chopping. A good chopping block is another necessity. These can be made of treated plastic or wood. There is an argument about this. Old timers still prefer the heavy wooden chopping block that can be found in stores in various sizes and shapes. Some claim the non-wooden chopping boards are best since they minimize the danger of bacteria build-up (even after cleaning with chlorine bleach). What type of cutting board or block you use? That’s something you’re going to have to decide for yourself.

Below is the easiest stir-fry recipe I know. Served over steamed rice, it makes a great vegetarian dish. But be aware that you can cook fish, meat, poultry, whatever, in a wok. Usually the ingredients are cut in such a way that all the pieces will be of uniform size; and the food which takes the longest time to cook will be put in the wok first. Another thing, most Chinese dishes call for soy sauce, of which there are two types: light and dark. Light soy sauce has more of the aroma of soybeans and is best used in soups, with white meat and cold dishes. Dark soy sauce has a stronger flavor and more sugar and is best in fried dishes and stews.

STIR-FRIED TOMATOES, ONIONS AND GREEN PEPPERS

3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 large onion cut into 1/8-inch thick slices
2 green peppers, diced into 1-inch squares
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
2 large tomatoes, each cut into eight wedges
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. Blend the cornstarch in water.
2. Add soy sauce and mix. Have it ready beforehand. Chinese stir-frying goes very quick.
3. Preheat wok over high heat. Do not heat the oil in the wok before adding food, otherwise the food will stick to the wok.
4. Add peanut oil and heat over medium flame.
5. Add onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
6. Add peppers and garlic and continue cooking for 2 minutes.
7. Stir in tomatoes. Add the cornstarch-soy mix, and stir to to thicken (about 1-2 minutes).
8. Remove from heat, and add sesame oil. The function of sesame oil is to give the food a pleasant aroma. If it is included too soon, the aroma is lost. In general, it should be added before the food is served.
Yield: 4 servings
Note: If you want a more Asian flavor, add 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger root to the vegetables while cooking; and garnish the finished dish with chopped scallions.

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Cooking with Wine – Part I

March 8, 2010 / / 0 Comments


Humanity has been cooking with wine since the inception of the grape. And not only wine but spirits in general. There are aficionados who cook with brandy, rum, whisky, you name it. Almost every culture that has spirituous liquors, cooks with them. Yet a lot of us have never cooked with wine, or even thought of it. Adding wine to your cuisine is like adding any other ingredient, herb or spice. Wine gives body and life to many dishes. And if you’re concerned about the alcohol, no need to be. Even a teetotaler can use spirits in their cooking. The alcohol content evaporates when subjected to heat and only the flavoring remains.

There are many variations to wine cooking, ranging from using it as a marinade, or to produce a sauce, or even a poaching liquid. In this post I will focus on using wine at its basic: as an item which will combine with other ingredients to produce a lush blend of flavors and aromas. We’re not talking about flambeing or flaming a piece of meat or fruit in order to get the taste, although that’s also part of it. I’m talking about simple dishes that can be enhanced with a bit of the grape.

When most of us think of cooking with wine, or spirits in general, we immediately imagine those classic dishes such as boeuf bourguignon (beef cooked in Burgundy wine) or duck simmered in port. A lot of us cringe because it seems like such a bother. Here’s a secret: it can be simple, and still be flavorful and delicious. Like the recipe given below. Nothing fancy, nothing time consuming. Just your basic lamb chops cooked in wine and herbs. The dish can also be done with pork chops or chicken breasts.

A final word: I know there are cooking wines out there on the grocer’s shelf. Skip it. If you’re going to cook with wine, use the wine you’re going to drink with dinner. If you think it’s a rare vintage, then buy something comparable at a lesser price and use that. The whole reason that cooking wines came about was to prevent the hired cooks from drinking the wines. So wines were salted and made unpalatable, and used for cooking. You’re cooking for yourself and friends. You’re not a hired cook. Enjoy your labors.

LAMB CHOPS WITH WINE AND HERBS

4 lamb chops, about 1/2 pound each and about 1 1/2 inches thick
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup wine, either dry red or dry white
1 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup basil leaves, washed and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Sprinkle the chops with salt and pepper on both sides.
2. Use a heavy fry pan or skillet (I prefer cast iron) large enough to hold the chops in one layer. Heat oil and butter until foaming. Add chops and cook until tender (about 4 minutes per side). Remove from pan and keep warm.
2. Discard fat from pan and add wine. Scrape the bottom to release browned or cooked pieces clinging to the pan. Quickly boil wine over high heat until half of the wine has evaporated.
3. Add thyme, basil, and garlic. Saute for a minute or so. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the chops to the pan and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove to a serving platter and sprinkle with the parsley.
Yield: 4 servings (or 2 servings for big eaters)

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