Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 16 of 83)

SPICED RUBBED STEAK CARRIBEAN STYLE

Yes, we Nuyoricans like our food with a bit of spice. It goes back to our heritage on the island of Puerto Rico, and which continued with the vast migration to the mainland.  Back in Spanish Harlem (East Harlem these days) we would spice up our steaks with whatever was available in the kitchen cupboard; and we had enough spices on hand to make a go of it. Like this spiced rubbed steak that you can whip up in 15 minutes. The spice rub gives the meat a sweet and sour flavor whether the steak is grilled, broiled or sautéed.  This dish can be done with 4 individual steak servings using porterhouse or club steaks. You can also cook up 2 pounds of  other meat such as bottom round  ribeye or (if times are lean)  chuck steak, and then cut into serving pieces. Lastly, if you want it really spicy you can add cayenne pepper. As noted, this is optional.

We normally do steak in a cast iron skillet;. but some prefer a nonstick skillet. Go with what’s best for you. Traditionally this meal is served with rice.  You can also add a side vegetable, if desired   Buen apetito.

SPICED RUBBED STEAK CARIBBEAN STYLE

Ingredients:

4 porterhouse or club steak (8 ounces per steak, about ½-inch thick)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt an pepper to taste
½ teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon cayenned (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil

Instructions:

  1. Wash steak under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  2. In a small bowl, combine spice ingredients and rubbed the mixture over the entire surface of the steaks.
  3. Heat oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add steaks and cook 5-6 minutes on each side or until cooked to desired degree of doneness. Transfer meat to a carving board and let it rest 5 minutes before serving.
    Yield: 4 servings.

POLLO CON HABICHUELAS (Chicken and Beans)

 

In our culture we love chicken and we love beans. So why not combine them together in a one pot meal, as we did back on the block with Pollo con Habichuelas. Just mix the ingredients, season, cook, and you have a marvelous one dish entrée.

In our family we use dried beans when preparing this dish. It will not work with canned beans, which are already precooked. You would have to prepare the chicken and beans separately, and then combine—which negates the idea of a one dish meal. Also, since it’s dried beans we’re dealing with, that means they need to be soaked for at least 8 hours or, preferably, overnight. This makes it easier to cook, and reduces the gas produced when the food is being digested.  There is a quick presoak method I’ve seen online: In a large pot, add 6 cups of water for each pound (2 cups) of dry beans. Heat to boiling; boil for 2–3 minutes. Remove from heat, cover and soak for at least 1 hour. Full disclosure, I’ve never tried this method; so I can’t vouch whether it works or not. Proceed as you think best.

Note that we use white beans in this recipe, which cuts down on the cooking time (about 1 hour). It takes longer to cook other beans. For instance, black beans take 60 to 90 minutes, kidney beans, navy beans and pinto beans take 90 to 120 minutes. With those varieties, since we’re cooking the chicken and beans together, by the time the beans are done, the chicken will be overcooked and dry.

The usual accompaniment to this dish is rice. In out family we like it as is with a crusty loaf of bread. Whichever way you serve it, it makes for a great dinner and the leftovers taste better the next day.

 

POLLO CON HABICHUIELAS

Ingredients:

2 cups white beans
1 2½-3 pound chicken, cut into serving pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon fresh chopped leaf oregano  or 1 teaspoon dried
1 chicken bouillon cube
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 cup black olives, sliced

 

Instructions:

  1. Day before, rinse beans, place in a large pot and add water to cover by 2 inches. Cover pot, and soak overnight. Note that the beans do not need to be refrigerated while soaking. Just leave in the kitchen counter while soaking or atop the stove.
  2. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a bowl, drizzle with olive oil, add salt, pepper, garlic and oregano. Mix to combine. Let stand for 15 minutes so that the spices blend into the chicken pieces.
  3. Drain beans, place in large pot, add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and add chicken, bouillon cube and turmeric. Stir to mix. Lower heat to gentle simmer, cover and cook until beans are tender, about 1 hour. Add more water, if necessary, during cooking. Add olives, cook 4 minutes more and serve.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

EASTER LAMB DISH

Easter is upon us once more, and it brings back memories of the Easter meals back on the block. In Spanish Harlem it was either pernil (roast pork shoulder) or lamb. In my family, we preferred lamb (we had the pernil at Christmas). I didn’t find out about roast Smithfield ham for the holiday (as is popular in some Anglo households) until I left the block and my horizons expanded.

Today, lamb is still our favored dish for this time of year, and I’m always on the lookout for unique ways to prepare it. The recipe given below is Glazed Leg of lamb. The recipe itself is simple enough: we make slits in the lamb and stuff it with slivers of garlic; then we marinated it overnight in a mix of salt, pepper, turmeric and olive oil. When the lamb is roasted, the glaze used is a mix of apple jelly, rosemary and lemon juice. We serve the dish with sweet potatoes (yams). It makes for a great Easter meal or, for anytime you want that special leg of lamb extravaganza.

GLAZED LEG OF LAMB

Ingredients:

Leg of lamb (about 5 pounds)
3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
1 tablespoon turmeric
Salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup apple jelly
½ teaspoon rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 cup butter
¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 pound sweet potatoes, washed, peeled and cut into chunks

Instructions:

  1. Day before cooking, rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers.
  2. In a small bowl, combine turmeric, salt, pepper and olive oil. Brush mixture over entire leg of lamb. Wrap lamb in aluminum foil, place in fridge and marinate overnight.
  3. Next day, preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
  4. Place lamb in a shallow roasting pan and bake 30 to 35 minutes per pound or until a meat thermometer registers 175 degrees for medium doneness.
  5. Meanwhile, combine jelly, rosemary and lemon juice in small saucepan. Brush on lamb during last hour of roasting time.

BAKED YAMS

  1. Combine butter, brown sugar and nutmeg in a small saucepan. Stir and cook over low heat until well blended.
  2. Pour butter mixture over sweet potatoes and arrange around lamb; and continue baking for the last 30 minutes of roasting time. Arrange on a serving platter and serve.
    Yield: 6 or more servings.

QUESILLO BLANCO

This is one of the lesser known desserts in criollo cuisine. It is a type of custard for which there is no English translation. Although queso means ‘cheese’ in Spanish, there is no cheese in this dessert. Why it’s called quesillo I have no idea. There are two types of quesillo: one is made with pineapple juice boiled  with sugar, which is then baked and chilled in a mold. The other is Quesillo Blanco. Or White Quesillo. That is the recipe given below. This version is made with eggs and condensed milk. Whatever it is called, forget the  semantics. It’s a truly delicious dessert that will cap a fine end to any meal.

Note that in the dessert, when baked, the custard will rise in the pan, giving it a sooth, delectable pink/russet color that will entice you with a tasty finish.

Quesillo Blanco

Ingredients:

3 eggs, separated
1 14-ounce can sweetened  condensed  milk
Cinnamon for garnish.

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.
  2.  In separate bowls, beat egg yolks and whites until light and frothy.
  3.  Add yolks to whites and beat well.
  4.  Stir in condemned milk and beat until blended.
  5.  Pour into a 1 quart mold or casserole.
  6.  Fill a baking pan ¾ full with hot water. Place mold in water and bake for 1 hour. The custard will rise in the pan, and is done when a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
  7.  You can serve as it or, if preferred, run a knife along rim of mold or casserole and unmold onto a serving dish. Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve.
    Yield: 4-6 servings.

BAKED GROUND MEAT

I’m told this recipe is of Lebanese origin. The recipe itself intrigued me in that in Nuyorican cuisine, at least in our family,  we would bake ground meat with cheese on top and serve it with bread. Later on, when my palate expanded I discovered Shepheard’s Pie and other ground meat dishes. So I’m always on the lookout for other baked meat specialties. In this rendition, the ground beef is seasoned and formed into meatball shapes and topped with slice onion, potato and tomato.  Le me add. if you want to cut back on your beef intake, you can substitute ground turkey or chicken, and it’ll be just as tasty. This dish is a meal in itself and, with a good crusty loaf of bread, makes for a sumptuous lunch or dinner.

BAKED GROUND MEAT

Ingredients:

1 pound lean ground meat
½ bunch chopped parsley, washed and finely chopped
½ onion, finely chopped
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more to taste
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
½ pound potatoes, thinly sliced (do not peel)
½ pound tomatoes, sliced
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degree F.
  2. In a bowl, combine the ground meat with the chopped parsley and onion. Add salt, pepper and cinnamon. Divide the mixture into a dozen equal parts and roll into balls. Now, you can make the meatballs as large or small as you like.  It could be anywhere from 6 large balls or a dozen small balls. Your choice.
  3.  Gently flatten the balls and place in a greased baking pan or dish (we prefer cast iron). Over each patty, place a slice of onion, a slice of potato and a slice of tomato.  Pour the tomato sauce over the patties, place in oven and bake for about 1 hour or until the patties are well cooked.
    Yield: 4-6 servings

 

BERENJENA RELLENA (Stuffed Eggplant)

This recipe is the Nuyorican way of making stuffed eggplant. Eggplant is a popular vegetable in our culture.. We prepare it fried, stewed, baked, and, as in this dish, stuffed. What makes our dish different is that we stuff it with seafood. Specifically, crabmeat, conch meat or shrimp.  This goes back to life on the island of Puerto Rico, where seafood was a major component of the diet. And it transferred to when we migrated to the mainland. And, we did substitute some changes. In Spanish Harlem, our family, when times were lean, would stuff the eggplant with canned tuna and, you know what, it tasted just as good.

Th recipe itself is simple enough. Just mixed the eggplant pulp with the crabmeat, bread crumbs and seasonings and stuff the eggplant shell. Note that the seasonings include  aji dulce. Think of small chili peppers that are sweet. Aji in Spanish means ‘chili pepper’ and dulce means ‘sweet’ Some may consider this a contradiction in terms but, it is what it is. These peppers are popular in Latin American and Caribbean cuisine and can be found in Latino food markets and, even online.

This dish is not your usual stuffed eggplant recipe as in Mediterranean or Middle Eastern cooking. As stated, this is our Nuyorican version and, as delicious as they come. Enjoy.

BERENJENA RELLENA
(Stuffed Eggplant)

Ingredients:

1 medium eggplant
1/2 cup water
I pound crabmeat (canned is okay)
1 cup breadcrumbs
2 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
3 aji dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped
6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped
2 eggs, well beaten
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons butter

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Cut eggplant in half lengthwise. Scoop our inner pulp but do not pierce outer shell. Save pulp.
3. Pour water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add eggplant pulp and steam, covered, until soft. Drain, remove pulp and mash thoroughly.
4. In a large bowl, combine pulp, crabmeat, breadcrumbs, garlic, salt, pepper, oregano, aji dulce, cilantro and eggs.
5. Brush inside of eggplant shells with olive oil. Stuff shells with crabmeat mixture. Dot each shell with a teaspoon of butter and bake for ½ hour.
Yield: 4 servings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HUEVOS AL HORNO (Baked Eggs)

In our culture, eggs are an every time meal, not just for breakfast or brunch. Back on the block we had them for dinner or whenever times were lean. With that in mind, the recipe given below was especially popular. It’s Huevos al Horno, or baked eggs. The eggs weren’t simply baked, they were served with a white sauce to give it a certain panache. I’ve modified the sauce by adding turmeric to it for color and enhanced flavor. Traditionally, baked eggs was served over rice or with tostones (friend green plantains) or crusty bread. Yes, it’ s thrifty meal but, done right, it becomes a banquet.

I would suggest, for this recipe, while the eggs are being boiled, prepare the white sauce and place it on low heat in the back burner while cooking the eggs. That way the sauce will be ready when the eggs are baked. Or you can prepare the sauce earlier in the day and have it ready. Whatever works for you best.

HUEVOS AL HORNO
(Baked Eggs)

Ingredients:

8 hard boiled eggs
3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 tablespoons butter
½ cup finely chopped onion
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
½ chopped bell pepper (green, red or yellow)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 cups basic white sauce (see below)
¼ cup grated Parmesan or cheddar cheese

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
  2.  Slice hard boiled eggs in half lengthwise and reserve yolks. Set the hollow whites aside.
  3.  In a small bowl, mix eggs and cream. Set aside.
  4. Heat butter in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion, garlic and pepper. Stir-fry until tender (2-3 minutes).
  5. Add eggs, salt and pepper and sauté briefly.
  6.  Stuff the hollow egg whites with the egg mixture. Arrange eggs in a baking dish.
  7.  Spoon white sauce over eggs and sprinkle with cheese.
  8.  Bake for 20 minutes, and serve.
    Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

BASIC WHITE SAUCE

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
1½ cups milk
½ teaspoon ground turmeric

Instructions:

  1. Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Blend in salt and pepper.
  2.  Gradually add milk, stirring over medium heat until sauce thickens and comes to a boil.
  3.  Stir in turmeric and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
    Yield: About 2 cups

 

NUMIDIAN CHICKEN

NUMIDIAN CHICKEN

As a self described historian, I’m fascinated by foods from bygone eras. I love checking out old, ancient cookbooks. One of my favorites is attributed to Apicius, a Roman gourmet who lived in the 1st century CE and who’s tome, De re culinaria or De re coquinaria  (On the Subject of Cooking) is one of the earliest cookbooks known to humanity. In it, Apicius notes the dishes enjoyed by the Roman elite during the reign of Emperor Tiberius.

The recipe given, Numidian Chicken (with modifications), is one of Apicius’ entries. Numidia was located in what is today Algeria; and had been a Roman province since 46 BCE. Obviously, Apicius considered their cooking on par with Roman cuisine since he included this recipe in his cookbook. Full disclosure: the recipe does contain ingredients that are hard to find. One of them is lazar root. an ingredient which is now extinct. The other is liquamen, a fish sauce that was used to salt dishes. To create liquamen today, even in a modern kitchen, is a long involved process that includes using fish blood. The only substitute I found online is simply mixing 1 teaspoon salt with 2 ounces white wine. I went with that. If you want it less, you can reduce the salt content to ½ or ¼ teaspoon.

The recipe itself is simple enough. It involves par-boiling a chicken (cut up), then roasting it. The final step is preparing an aromatic sauce with various ingredients and seasonings that are still available today. In Apicius’ time the idea was to pound the ingredients and seasonings. That is, crushing them (I guess in a giant mortar) then cooking to make a sauce that was poured over the chicken. It is not as complex as you think. For instance, instead of pounding the ingredients, I blend them in a food processor. One of the benefits of 21st century living. It just takes patience, and you have a meal a Roman Patrician would savor. Except, you are the Roman gourmand.

The dish goes good with rice, couscous, quinoa or farro. You can add a modern Italian bent to it and serve it over pasta. In our clan, we like it as is with a good crusty loaf of bread. With a fine wine, Italian or otherwise, you have a meal that Caesar and his contemporaries would find delicious—and so will you. Toga is optional.

Ingredients:

1 fryer chicken, 2½ to 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup dried dates
1 tablespoon pine nuts
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon salt mixed with 2 ounces white wine
2 tablespoons olive oil

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
  2.  Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
  3.  Place chicken in a pan or pot with water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 2 minutes.
  4.  Remove from water and place in an oven proof dish (we prefer cast iron), sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon of pepper, and bake 45-50 minutes or until tender.
  5.  Meanwhile, place dates, pine nuts, cumin, remaining pepper, coriander seed, vinegar, honey, salt-wine mixture and olive oil in a food processor. Blend and mix well. Transfer to a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. If sauce is too thick, add 1-2 tablespoons of white wine to thin it. Or, if too thin, you can add a bit of starch mixed with water. Here, it’s a judgment call. I find that when I heat the sauce, it comes out on the thick side. Pour over chicken and serve, either in the oven proof dish or a serving platter.
    Yield: 4 servings.

BAKED MUSHROOMS

When I’m looking for an exceptional mushroom dish, I always go to Baked Mushrooms. It’s not the normal way to prepare the fame fungi. Yes, mushrooms are an organism belonging to the fungi kingdom.  That being said, my favorite recipe for baked mushroom is the French classic: Champignons au Four. It is simply a mix of mushrooms, salt pork (also known as fatback), parsley and scallions. Let me add that, if you’re not partial to salt pork, you can always substitute bacon but, it will not render the same flavor or texture. Proceed as you think best.  Our usual accompaniment to this dish is plain boiled rice; but you can serve it with your preferred grain or even pasta. This time around we paired it with couscous, and it was marvelous.

As to the mushrooms, the recipe calls for small  white mushrooms. We tried it with small Portobello, and it came out just as good. Keep in mind it has to be small, whole mushroom. If you want to use large mushroom, sliced or cut up, you’re welcomed to try. if you want to experiment, go right ahead.

I’ve had this recipe for years hidden away in one of my desk drawers. How I got it, I can’t recall. It does serve its purpose when I want an out of the ordinary mushroom dish. It makes for a great vegetarian meal that everyone, vegetarian or not, will love.

BAKED MUSHROOM

Ingredients:

1 pound small mushrooms, washed and patted dry with paper towels
¼ pound salt pork, rinsed, diced, blanched in boiling water for 5 minters and drained
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Pinch of ground nutmeg
8 sprigs parsley, main stems removed
2 tablespoons olive oil

Instructions:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 Degree F.
  2. Mix the mushrooms, salt pork, butter, chopped parsley, scallions, salt and pepper together. Put the mixture into an ovenproof dish (we prefer cast iron). Place in oven and cook for 30 to 40 minutes or until mushrooms, salt pork and scallions are lightly browned.
  3.  Just before serving, fry the parsley sprigs in the oil and use them to garnish the dish.
    Yield: 3-4 servings.

 

RELLENOS DE HARINA DE MAIZ (Stuffed Cornmeal balls)

This one of those dishes where Puerto Ricans on the mainland U. S. took a native dish and changed it to suit their needs. On the island, this dish was prepared as pastelillos or meat pies. This entails the use of plantains leaves.  A portion of cornmeal filling in placed on a leaf, which is then folded to give the meat pie its shape. The meat pie is then carefully removed from the plantain leaf and deep-fried, hopefully retaining its form. Nuyorican’s find this time consuming We’ve developed our own way of doing things. We shape the cornmeal mixture with the hands, or by using two spoons. Then we fry it.

Even with the Nuyorican method, this dish that takes time. This is not a quicky meal  and, in our culture, it is served as an appetizer or a meal in itself.  But the time it takes to make it is well worth the effort. Note that beef is used to stuff the cornmeal balls. If preferred, you can substitute ground chicken or turkey. I know some folks, on the high end, who stuff it with veal. Use whatever suits your taste.

This recipe calls for sofrito, that popular flavoring indigenous to criollo cooking. In Puerto Rican cuisine, sofrito is the standout. Think of garam masala in Indian cuisine or kimchi in Korean  cooking. Sofrito serves the same purpose. Today you can find processed sofrito in specialty food stores or most supermarket and, honestly, it’s chemicalized crap. Your best bet is to make some at home. We have a recipe for it on my post of 11/08/10.  If you can’t find the right ingredients in your area, here’s a quick recipe that will do in a pinch. It’s not the genuine stuff, but it’ll be close. In a blender or food processor, blend 1 tablespoon fresh chopped cilantro; 2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley; 1 medium chopped green pepper; 1 clove garlic; 1 coarsely chopped medium onion; 3 sweet chili peppers (not the hit kind). This will make about ¾ cup . You can double or triple the recipe if desired. It should be stored in a closed tight jar in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 day, or in the freezer compartment indefinitely.

RELLENOS DE HARINA DE MAIZ
(Stuffed Cornmeal Balls)

Ingredients:

1 cup water
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups yellow cornmeal
½ cup flour
¾ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons sofrito  (see above)
1 cup lean ground beef (about ¼ pound)
2 tablespoons tomato sauce
½ teaspoon capers
Vegetable oil for frying

Instructions:

  1. Boil water in a small saucepan and add the salt and butter.
  2.  Combine cornmeal and flour in a bowl. Add the boiling water, mixing well to form a soft dough. Set aside and let stand for 30 minutes.
  3.  Meanwhile heat olive oil in a skillet or cast iron pan. Add sofrito and ground beef. Sauté over medium heat until meat loses its red color.
  4.  Stir in tomato sauce and capers. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
  5.  For the final step, some folks like to shape the cornmeal using two spoons.  That is, scooping out a spoonful of cornmeal mix, and smoothing out the mixture so  that it’s level with the spoon. Then placing  a teaspoon of beef filling atop the cornmeal. Lastly,  covering filling with a tablespoon filled level with the cornmeal mix, and shaping the whole cornmeal ball into an oval. While doing this, always remember to keep your hands lightly wet.. Some cooks prefer to shape the cornmeal balls by hand. Use whatever technique works best for you.
  6.  Deep fry in hot oil until golden.
    Yield: About 8 stuffed cornmeal balls.
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