Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 60 of 83)

Adobo

Adobo, along with sofrito and achiote, is a magic word to those of us whose forbears hail from the Caribbean. It is an indispensable item in our cuisine. At its basic it’s simply a mix of black peppercorns, oregano and garlic. In the old days these ingredients were crushed in a mortar and the mix was rubbed thoroughly into meat, fish or poultry. That’s still the way it’s done by purists (and yours truly). Back on the block, most people just sprinkled the meat with ground pepper, ground garlic, dried oregano and, sometimes, onion powder, then marinated it in olive oil and vinegar. Others, like my Uncle Phillip, preferred fresh lime juice to the vinegar. And there were no strict guidelines. We all did it by eye measurement and repetition.

Since then, I’ve discovered that adobo is not solely a Puerto Rican or Caribbean thing. In the town of Puebla, in Mexico’s central range, they have a version of adobo that is a paste of ancho chiles, garlic, peppercorns and cumin seeds. And they normally use it when cooking pork. This is interesting, since in some Puerto Rican versions of adobo , they may also add cumin seeds. In my family we didn’t add cumin seeds. We just kep it to the basics.

When I was growing up in Spanish Harlem, no one knew about adobo outside my neighborhood. It was well known in the Dominican enclaves on upper Broadway, but that’s as far as it went. As adobo was popularized by assorted gourmands and gourmets, it was, like all else, commercialized. So that today you can find it in a jar in any store. It’s convenient but, if you want the real thing (and not just something with chemicals and preservatives), you can make your own adobo quickly and efficiently. And it’s far more tasty and healthy than the store-bought stuff. The recipe given below is the one we’ve been using in my family for generations. You can go the traditional method and use a mortar and pestle to grind the ingredients, or not. Also note that the ingredients can be doubled or tripled, if you want more. Just store the remainder in an air-tight container away from heat and light or in the fridge.

ADOBO

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper or 8 whole peppercorns, crushed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder or three cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 teaspoon dried or fresh oregano
1/4 teaspoon onion powder (optional)

If using fresh peppercorns and garlic, just combine with other ingredients and crush in a mortar. If not, just combine all ingredients in a bowl. Another variation is to heat the salt and peppercorns in a dry skillet on medium heat until the spices are lightly toasted (about 3 minutes). Then combine with the other ingredients and grind in a blender or spice mill. Some say this renders a more fragrant adobo. In the Rivera family we just mix the ingredients and forego the frying part. Your choice; and enjoy!

Fish Fillets with Lemon and Capers

July 3, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I’m told that one of the first things they teach in cooking school is preparing a dish “meunière” style. I’ve never been to cooking school but its seems we in the Rivera family have been cooking “meunière” style all along. It’s simply dipping fish fillets (or a whole fish) in milk, coating with flour, and frying. A variation of this is meunière with lemon and capers. This is called grenobloise style. My mother had been preparing fish like this for years without knowing of its highfalutin background. In French classical cuisine they use mainly an unflavored oil such as peanut or corn oil for the frying. Given our Latin roots, we in the Rivera clan use olive oil.

What’s great about this dish, whatever you want to call it, is its simplicity. It’s one of the most basic of entrées. Boiled potatoes is the classic accompaniment to this dish, but you can serve it with rice or pasta, or any other preferred grain. With a crusty piece of bread, it’s the best thing around.

FISH FILLETS WITH LEMON AND CAPERS

4 boneless fish fillets, such as haddock, cod, flounder, turbot, ext. (about 1/4 pound each)
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon (plus three-four thin lemon slices for garnish)
6 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup drained capers
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

1. Rinse the fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place the fillets in shallow dish and add the milk. Turn the fish to coat evenly with the milk.
3. Place the flour in another shallow dish and season salt, pepper, and oregano. Dredge each fillet in the flour; and shake to remove excess flour from the fish.
4. Heat the oil in a large skillet (I prefer cast-iron), and cook the fillets over moderate to high heat about 4-5 minutes until golden brown on one side. Turn and cook until golden brown on the other side. As the fish cooks, baste with the oil in the skillet. Total cooking time is about 10-15 minutes.
5. Remove the fillets to a warm serving dish. Sprinkle with the lemon juice.
6. Pour off the oil from the skillet, and wipe the skillet with a kitchen towel or paper towel. Heat the butter in the skillet over medium heat until it starts to brown. Add the capers and cook about 15 seconds. Pour the butter sauce with the capers over the fish fillets. Sprinkle with the parsley. Garnish with the lemon slices, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Char Siu – Style Eggplant

June 26, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In the Rivera clan we love eggplant. And we prepare it in whatever fashion: fried (breaded or not), braised, sauteed, baked, you name it. That said, I’m always seeking novel ways to prepare the vegetable—which led me to char siu– style eggplant.

Char Siu is is a popular way to flavor and cook meat in East Asia. Now, like everything else, there are variations in the way it is prepared. It is mainly a mix of soy sauce, sugar or honey, hoisin sauce and five-spice powder. Some recipes add ouster-flavored sauce and wine to it as well. In Cantonese cooking, char siu literally means “fork burn/roast,” where strips of meat, typically pork, are marinated in the char siu sauce, then skewered with long forks and cooked over a fire. In Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand, the sauce is mixed with rice. In Japan it is called chāshū and likewise is used in cooking meat, bu they omit the sugar and five-spice powder. In Hawaii, it’s used in cooking chicken, wild birds, and even goat meat.

So it came to mind: Why not try it with eggplant? If char siu can be used with meats and rice, why not vegetables? And the result is the dish given below. You can serve it as an appetizer, or side dish, or as an entree with rice, couscous or whatever grain desired. It makes for a great vegetarian meal. Coupled with a bottle of your favorite white wine (or light red, for that matter), you can’t miss on this one.

CHAR SIU -STYLE EGGPLANT

1 medium eggplant
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons oyster-flavored sauce
1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder*
3 tablespoons white wine

1. Wash eggplant under cold running water. Trim off the end and cut eggplant into 1/4-inch slices (do not peel). Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
3. In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, honey, hoisin sauce, oyster-flavored sauce, five-spice powder and wine. Toss eggplant with the mixture and marinate at least 1 hour in the fridge. You can also place eggplant in a large zip-lock bag, add mixture and marinate that way.
4. Remove eggplant from marinade, place in a baking dish (I prefer cast-iron) and bake until tender (about 30).
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Five-spice powder can be obtained in any Asian or Oriental market, or health food store.

Greek Grilled Octopus

June 20, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

We Puerto Ricans love Octopus. The favored way of preparing it is in octopus salad, where the cooked and
sliced octopus is combined with herbs, garlic and onions and served over steamed rice or in sandwiches—that’s right, octopus sandwiches. Don’t knock it till you try it. In the Mediterranean they’ve been preparing octopus for over a thousand years. The following recipe is grilled octopus – Greek style. It’s innovative in that the octopus is cooked in its own liquid with a wine cork added (supposedly to help in the reduction of the liquid).

I like this recipe because it minimizes the cooking time. The problem with octopus is that if it’s cooked too long it becomes rubbery. In my experience it should have minimal boiling, otherwise you’ll be chewing on rubber. This recipe can be prepared on a grill or, my favorite, seared in skillet and then served. Either way gives you a great, tasty dish. Served over steamed white rice, it’s a memorable meal.

GREEK GRILLED OCTOPUS

1 medium to large octopus, beak and ink-sac removed (most octopi are already cleaned when purchasing)
1/3 cup dry red wine
Balsamic or red wine vinegar
Freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Fresh or dried Greek oregano
Olive oil
Salt to taste (preferably sea salt)
Juice from half a lemon

1. Wash octopus under cold running water. Then place (with a wine cork) in a pot over high heat and cover.
2. Allow the octopus to boil for 5-8 minutes. Remove the lid and have a look-see if the liquid has been released. The octopus should be almost covered in liquid.
3. Replace the cover and reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 10 minutes, checking occasionally to see if there’s enough braising liquid. You may add some more water and continue to braise until the octopus is fork-tender.
4. Remove from heat. Add the wine, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and oregano. Allow the octopus to steep until the liquid has cooled or, better still, place in the refrigerator overnight.
5. If you’re grilling the octopus: preheat gas grill to high. You may cut the octopus into pieces now or after it’s been grilled. Take the octopus out of the liquid and place in a bowl, add about 2-3 tablespoons olive oil, a splash of vinegar, oregano and pepper. Salt is optional. Place octopus on a grill and cook about 2-3 minutes on both sides. Remove and place on a serving platter. Drizzle with more olive oil, a squeeze of lemion juice, a good sprinkling of oregano, and a little salt.
6. If you are not grilling and want to prepare it on the kitchen range: take the octopus out of the liquid and place in a bowl. You may cut the octopus into bite-sized pieces at this time. Add 2-3 tablespoons olive oil, a splash of vinegar, oregano, pepper and some sea salt, if needed. Heat a skillet or, preferably, a cast-iron pan, and sear the octopus 2-3 minutes on each side. Remove from skillet and place on a serving platter. Drizzle with more olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, a sprinkle of oregano and sea salt if desired.
Yield: about 4 servings.

Persian Grilled Chicken

June 10, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

One of my favorite cuisine is Middle Eastern. And I’m told this is the favorite way of preparing chicken in Iraq; and it harks back to the Persian Empire. The recipe can be done over hot coals on an outdoor grill or in an oven broiler. I like this recipe because its very similar our method of broiling chicken in Puerto Rican or Nuyorican neighborhoods. The only difference being that we add oregano to the marinade. And Iraquis marinate the chicken overnight, just like we do. Farther afield, in Turkey, they like to flavor the chicken with a little cumin instead of the garlic and lemon in the marinade.

PERSIAN GRILLED CHICKEN

1 3-pound broiler fryer chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces
Juice of 1 lemon
1 small onion, chopped and crushed to extract juices
1-3 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to tatse

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock bag. Add the remaining ingredients. If using a bowl, rub the seasoning thoroughly into the chicken parts. If using a zip-lock bag, make sure the chicken parts are thoroughly coated with the marinade. Refrigerate overnight.
3. If using a grill: place the chicken pieces on an oiled grill (preferably over a charcoal fire) that is very hot and glowing, and no longer smoking. Grill the pieces until golden brown but still pale and tender inside, basting with marinade and turning once.
4. If using oven broiler: broil in a pan (I prefer cast-iron), rack or greased aluminum foil 7 inches from heat source for 30 minutes. Turn once during broiling and baste frequently with the marinade.
Yield: 4 servings.

Home Made Fish Nuggets

June 4, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In recent times our illustrious fast food culture had co-opted fish nuggets. They are now selling like hotcakes in every fast food venue. Problem is, though they may be artificially tasty, they suck in that they are very bad for you health-wise. They are chock full of sugar, chemicals and artificial ingredients. In essence, you are ingesting poison. So why eat this crap when you can make tasty fish nuggets at home? That’s right, home-made fish nuggets at very minimal expense and time. You can also make you own dipping sauce as well. With that in mind here’s a quickie, tasty recipe for crunchy fish nuggets with an appropriate sauce.

The recipe is easy as pie: coat the fish with seasoned milk, then dredge in seasoned bread crumbs; bake and serve with a honey-curried mustard dipping sauce. The whole thing takes about twenty-five minutes to prepare, if that. By the way, you can try the same recipe with chicken fillets and have chicken nuggets. It works just as well.

HOME MADE FISH NUGGETS

1/2 cup milk
Salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/4 pound cod or haddock fillets, cut into 1 by 2-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups breadcrumbs
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon chili powder (or more if you want it really spicy)
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Honey-Curried Mustard Sauce:
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons mustard (preferably coarse-grained)
1/2 teaspoon curry powder (more if you want it really spicy)

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the milk, salt and pepper to taste.
3. In another shallow bowl or pie plate, mix together the breadcrumbs, chili powder, cumin and garlic powder.
4. Immerse the fish nuggets in seasoned milk, turning to coat evenly. Then dredge the nuggets in the breadcrumb mixture, coating all sides evenly.
5. Arrange the fish on a greased baking pan (I prefer cast-iron), baking dish or greased foil paper. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until the breadcrumb coating is golden brown and crisp (the fish should be opaque at the center).
6. Meanwhile, prepare the dipping sauce: in a small bowl, whisk together the honey, mustard, curry powder, salt and pepper to taste.
7. Serve the fish nuggets with the honey-curried mustard sauce.
Yield: 4 servings.

Broiled Lamb Chops – Puerto Rican Style

May 28, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In my family we love lamb, especially lamb chops. And we have the Nuyorican way of cooking it, quick, easy, and no fuss. The only suggestion I have is that, when buying lamb chops, get the best quality, preferably from the leg of the lamb. In terms of seasoning, we use the normal Boricua staples (peppercorns, oregano, etc.) My kitchen colleagues are divided on this. Some claim that lamb chops should be broiled with nothing more than salt, pepper and a little oil. On the other hand I have friends from the Mediterranean basin who sprinkle cumin and coriander on them, rather than strong seasonings. Another acquaintance sprinkles lemon juice on the chops after broiling. They all agree on the time element: 3-4 minutes per side for rare chops; 7-8 minutes for well done.

The recipe below is from my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America, soon to be re-issued by Avalon Press, Running Books, in a new, revised and improved format.

CHULETAS DE CORNERO A LA PARRILLA
(Broiled Lamb Chops)

4 lamb chops, about 1-inch thick
8-10 whole black peppercorns
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil

1. Preheat broiler to high.
2. Wash chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
3. Place peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt in a mortar, and pound until crushed.
4. Rub chops with the seasoning, pressing into the meat with fingers and palm of hand.
5. Arrange chops on a shallow baking pan or, preferably, on a rack with a pan under it. Broil 3 inches from heat source, turning after 3 or 7 minutes depending on preference. Broil second side (3-4 minutes for medium, 5 minutes or more for well done). Serve with potatoes, a tossed salad, or tostones (fried green plantains—for a recipe: see the blog and video from September 9th 2010).
Yield: 4 servings.

Lebanese Duck

May 20, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

I’ve been a fan of Middle Eastern cuisine for a long while. I grew up with typical Caribbean fare; but once my horizons expanded, food from the Middle East, inclusive of Israeli cooking, became among my favorites. This includes dishes from Lebanon. And one of the modern favorites from this land is duck cooked with orange juice. Now, you’re probably thinking of the French duck a l’orange. Some say that this Lebanese dish owes its inspiration to its French counterpart. Or, perhaps the opposite is true. Maybe the French version owes its genesis to the Lebanese version. I honestly don’t know. But I do know that this Lebanese treat is easier to prepare than canard a l’orange, and it is just as tasty.Served with Lebanese style rice, it makes for a great Middle Eastern dinner. Think of it this way, this is your time to impress family and loved ones with a unique repast—the Oooh’s and the Aaah’s will be worth it.

LEBANESE DUCK
(Duck with Orange Juice)

1 duck (about 5-6 pounds)
1 large onion, peeled and cut into thin rings
3-4 tablespoons butter
2 cups orange juice
Salt and black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons finely fresh chopped parsley

1. Wash the duck under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Heat butter over medium heat in a pan large enough to hold the duck, and fry the onion until soft and translucent.
3. Brown the duck in the same fat used to cook the onions, turning it occasionally to brown it all over.
4. Add the orange juice along with the salt and pepper. Cover, lower heat and simmer for about 1 hour. If the liquid starts to dissipate, you may add a ladleful of water from time to time, and turning the duck occasionally.
5. Remove the duck from the pan and let it cool. Cut into serving pieces and return to the pan. Continue to simmer the duck until it is very tender and had fully absorbed the flavor of the orange juice. Serve sprinkled with the parsley.

LEBANESE STYLE RICE

What I discovered is that rice cooked the Lebanese way is very similar to the way we cook rice in our house. Only difference is that we add olive oil instead of butter while the rice is cooking.

2 cups long grain rice
4 cups water (if you prefer a drier type of rice with individual grains then make it 1 1/4 cup water for
each cup of rice).
Salt to taste
4-6 tablespoons butter

1. Place the water, salt and butter in a pot or saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. Add the rice and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. Lower heat, cover tightly and simmer for 20 minutes. Do not disturb, let it simmer until the rice is tender. You know it’s done when little holes appear on the surface of the rice—and never stir while it’s cooking.
3. Turn off heat and allow the rice to rest for another 10 minutes before serving.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Fried Tofu with Sichuan Peppercorn

May 14, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

One of my favorite cuisines is Asian, in all its variations. This began years ago when the family lived in Spanish Harlem. We would trek down to the Hong Fat restaurant in Chinatown. Anybody recall Hong Fat’s? It was on Mott Street for over 30 years. Now it’s long since gone. But those memorable Friday night meals remain with me. It was American-Chinese cooking; and It wasn’t till my palate expanded that I discovered the joys of genuine Chinese cuisine in all its glory (and not just bland Cantonese fare). I also discovered other Asian cooking: Thai, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, etc. Today I experiment with them all.

Along the way I came across Tofu, or bean curd. I’ve been an aficionado of it ever since. The recipe given below is simple friend tofu with a chili-Sichuan peppercorn mix. Sichuan is a style of Chinese cooking noted for its emphasis on spice, specifically peppercorn. You can find Sichuan peppercorn in any Asian market. The recipe also calls for gochu garu, Korean red pepper powder. Also available in most Asian markets. Gochu garu is a Korean national treasure. It is normally used as dip or garnish for poached chicken and steamed vegetables. In this recipe I team it up with the fried tofu. This is a quick endeavor. It takes maybe 5 minutes to prepare the peppercorn mix, and maybe 10 minutes to cook up the tofu. Served with steamed white or brown rice, it can’t be beat So, what to experience something different? Here’s you chance for a unique Asian meal.

Chili-Sichuan Peppercorn Mix
3 tablespoons gocho garu
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn, toasted and ground
3/4 teaspoon white sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons canola or peanut oil
1/2 teaspoon sugar

1. In a small bowl, combine Korean red pepper powder, Sichuan peppercorn, sesame seeds and salt. Put the oil in a small saucepan or skillet and heat over medium-high heat until just smoking.
2. Pour half the oil over chili powder mixture. This will render a foaming action in the mixture. Give it a quick stir with a spoon. Pour in remaining oil, and continue stirring to moisten ingredients. Finally, stir in sugar.
3. Let it cool a few minutes, taste and adjust the flavor with extra salt or sugar if needed. The mixture is now ready to use. You can store remainder in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerate for up to a week.

FRIED TOFU
1 block (14-oz) extra firm tofu, sliced into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup unbleached flour
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil

1. In a small bowl, combine tofu with remaining ingredients except for the olive oil. Toss gently to coat tofu well. Or place ingredients (again, except for olive oil) in a zip-lock bag or covered container and shake well to coat.
2. In a large skillet or fry pan, heat oil over medium-high heat and add the tofu. Cook for 4-6 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden and lightly crispy. Serve with chili-Sichuan peppercorn mix and steamed rice.
Yield: 2 servings.
Note: You can double the recipe to serve 4 or more.

Sautéed Cod with Spinach

May 7, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

One of my favorite seafood is cod fillets. And one of my favored veggies is spinach (I’m like Popeye, I love the stuff). And whenever I get the chance I like to combine the two. It’s a delicious and healthy combo. So here’s my latest creation in that regard. And it has a Asian spin to it since among the ingredients there is soy sauce and ginger. It’s an easy enough recipe: first you whisk up the vinaigrette, then you cook the spinach, roast the fish, and finally serve the mix with the vinaigrette spooned around the spinach. The mild, sweet flavor of the cod is a perfect match for the spinach and dressing.

SAUTÉED COD WITH SPINACH

3 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
1 teaspoon plus 1 small shallot, finely minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 bunches spinach, washed and dried
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon butter
Salt to taste
4 (6-ounce) cod fillets, about 1 1/2-inch thick, rinsed and pat dried with paper towels
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, lime juice, soy sauce, ginger, and 1 teaspoon minced shallot. Whisk to combine, and set aside.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet or fry-pan over high heat. Add spinach, tossing until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, rest of minced shallot and butter. Sauté until soften, about 2-3 minutes. Once spinach is tender (about 5 minutes total) season with salt. Set aside and keep warm.
4. Set a large ovenproof pan over medium heat (I prefer cast-iron for this part). Meanwhile, season cod fillets lightly with salt and pepper. Pour remaining olive oil into the pan, and once oil begins to shimmer, lay fillets, flat-side down, into the hot pan. Once a thick golden crust forms on the underside of the cod (about 5 minutes), transfer pan to the oven and roast until fish turns white all the way through (about 4 minutes).
5. Remove pan from oven. Securing the top of each fillet with your hand or a fork, and the bottom with a spatula, gently flip the fillets. Return pan to the oven and roast 1 minute more.
6. Divide spinach among four plates, and top with spinach and fillets. Whisk vinaigrette once more and spoon it around spinach. Or, if desired, you can place fillets on a large serving bowl (or leave it in the pan), top with spinach and pour vinaigrette over and around it. Its your call whether to serve individually or in separate plates.
Yield: 4 servings.

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