Oswald Rivera

Author: Oswald Rivera (page 62 of 83)

Steak Flambé

January 16, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Steak Flambé or, in our jargon, Biftec Flambé was a special dish that my Uncle Phillip, the black sheep in our family, would conjure up. And it could explain some of his success with woman. Uncle Phillip was a ladies’ man extraordinaire; and as such he was a devotee of spectacle. Part of this explains the flambeing, or flaming of food at the table. That and a good bottle of wine would win over any woman’s heart, or so he claimed.So, the next time you want to impress friends, family or your partner, give this recipe a try. Uncle Phillip would approve. It should be noted that a chafing dish or electric skillet can be used when preparing this dish; and it gives pizazz to any occasion.

If you’re flaming at the table, it’s prefer that you have the sauteed onions and seasoned steaks already to go beforehand. Then finish it off at the table. Also, let me add a plug here: this recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). If you want to get more of Uncle Phillip’s recipes or any of the other family gems, check it out.

BIFTEC FLAMBÉ

(Steak Flambé)

4 club steaks (8 ounces per steak), about 1/2-inch thick
1 cup beef broth
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons brandy or dark Puerto Rican rum

1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a small dish, heat 2 tablespoons of broth. Sauté onions on medium heat, until tender (about 3-4 minutes).
3. Add the rest of the broth, but reserve 3 tablespoons. Lower heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt.
5. Using heel of hand, press seasoning onto both sides of club steaks.
6. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons broth in a large skillet. Sauté steaks, over medium-high heat, for about 3 minutes on each side (for rare steaks).
7. Lower heat, pour brandy or rum over the meat. Stand back and touch a lighted match to the liquor.
8. Serve when flame goes out, with sauteed onions spooned over.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Some experts contend it’s a good idea to heat the liquor before lighting in the dish. Uncle Phillip, for his part, just poured in the spirits and set it aflame. Use whatever way suits you.

Photo: Courtesy of The Literate Chef

Red Flannel Hash

My wife and I normally spend the holidays with friends in Vermont, where it gets COLD. And I mean COLD, like 30 degrees below zero F. at night. You figure that in a climate like this they like good, filling food. And one of the most popular dishes in Vermont, or so the locals tell me, is Red Flannel Hash. Now, I never heard of such fare until I came here. I know about corned beef hash, the great staple for Saint Patrick’s day; and Yankee hash. But, red flannel hash? According to the locals, red flannel hash is a hearty dish that was popular with Vermont farmers in the old days. All it is is corned beef that is fried along with beets (yes, beets), and then you top the thing with eggs poached in the dish. Why is it called “Red Flannel Hash?” Well, the beets would add the red color. Also, according to legend, farmers would wear red flannel underwear back then to ward off the cold. This, along with beets, gave it its name. I cannot vouch for the authenticity of this, but locals here swear by it.

RED FLANNEL HASH

1/3 cup butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 cups ground or chopped corned beef
3-4 potatoes (like like red potatoes), diced small (I like them with the skins on)
3 beets, peeled and diced small
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
4-6 large eggs

1. Heat the butter in a a large skillet over medium heat (I prefer cast-iron for this task). Add onion and cook until onion is soft and translucent.
2. Add the corned beef, and cook for about 2-3 minutes. Add the potatoes, beets, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to mix, cover the pan and lower heat to medium-low. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring every few minutes until the beets become tender. As you stir, try to scrape the bottom of the pan so that the browned bits are included. Don’t worry if the potatoes begin to fall apart, that’s okay.
3. When the beets are tender, crack the eggs atop the pan. cover and let the eggs poach until done. Usually it takes about 5 minutes if you like runny eggs, or 7 minutes if you desire a firmer yolk. Remove from heat and serve, scooping onto plates.
Yield: 4-6

Photo: courtesy of CHOW

Puerto Rican Beef Stew

January 3, 2014 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

This weather is tailor made for Carne Guisada, or beef stew Puerto Rican style. Carne guisada is prominent in what we call criollo cooking. That is, traditional Puerto Rican cooking derived from native Caribbean influences. As such, we Nuyoricans (New York Puerto Ricans, whether born or raised in New York City) love the dish; although it has countless variants. I’ve seen recipes where raisins and sweet peas, carrots and even squash are added. My cousin Yvonne used to boil the meat first then add the remaining ingredients. Some cooks add beef bones to the stew. Others cook the potatoes separately. Whatever method is used, the results are uniformly good.

This dish is not the standard beef stew found in the U.S. mainland and other parts of the world. It has more seasoning than the usual salt and pepper. It also includes achiote, that is, annatto seeds cooked in a little olive oil. The oil then acquires a deep red color that is added to the dish. If you don’t have the patience to prepare achiote, you get get a store bought variety in any Asian or Caribbean market (or, for that matter, most supermarkets these days). Or you can substitute sazón accent (Goya products makes a good version). Carne guisada is usually served with rice and tostones (deep fried plantains). Recipes for tostones and achiote can be found in my first cookbook,Puertio Rican Cuisine in America Perseus Books – Running Press).

CARNE GUISADA
(Beef Stew)

2 pounds beef round steak, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/4 cup olive oil or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tomato sauce
1 tablespoon achiote
10-12 pimento stuffed olives
1 tablespoon capers
1 bay lead
1/2 cup water
1 pound Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed

1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels.
2. In a Dutch oven or heavy kettle, heat the oil, add beef chunks, onion, bell pepper, oregano, garlic and stir-fry over moderate heat until meat is brown.
3. Add salt, tomato sauce, achiote, olives, capers and bay leaf. Mix and cook for 5 minutes.
4. Add water, bring to a rapid boil, cover and simmer over low hear for 30 minutes.
5. Add potatoes, stir to combine, and bring to a rapid boil. Cover and simmer for another 30 minutes.
6. Serve over steamed white or yellow rice.
Yield: 5 servings.

Photo: courtesy of YELP – José Enrique: Photos

Western Chili Casserole

December 25, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

If you live in a northern climate, this time of year is perfect for chili. Now, here in the Americas (and I would add, world wide) we all know about chili. Some claim it originated with the early Texas trail drives where some enterprising trail cook served up buffalo meat, or cattle meat, or whatever meat was available and mixed it with chili peppers and onions, fed it to the cowpokes, and the rest is history. But history is more defining than that. Chili peppers were known to the Incas, Aztecs and Mayans long before Europeans settled on the American continent. Chili peppers even show up in the ancient cuisines of China, India and the Arab penninsula. So, chili peppers were here long before the Texas cowpokes got to it. That being said, the dish has been popularized throughout the Southwest and entered the American pantheon.

What we know as “chili” is simply chili con carne, or chili with meat. There are many variations of chili, depending upon the geographic region. Some include beans, and some do not. Some include tomatoes and some do not. Some eat it as is with tortilla chips, and some eat it over rice. President Lyndon Johnson’s favorite chili recipe contained venison rather than beef; and he added tomatoes and onions to it. It was known as “Pedernales River Chili” popular in the Texas Hill country. My favorite chili recipe is a “chili casserole”—which to my southern friends would be akin to blasphemy. But I love the dish. I discovered it long ago in one of my old cookbooks: Quick and Easy Dishes published by the Favorite Recipes Press in 1968. The dish is credited to Charlyene Deck, of Exeter Union High School in Exeter, California. I don’t know is Ms. Deck is still around or not but, as a kid from Spanish Harlem on the other side of the continent, I salute her.

WESTERN CHILI CASSEROLE

1 pound ground beef
1 large onion, chopped
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 15-ounce can Mexican-style chili beans
1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
2 cups corn chips, crushed
1 1/4 cup grated cheddar cheese
Pitted ripe olives

1. Brown meat in skillet; add onion and celery. Cook until tender.
2. Remove excess fat from skillet; add beans, salt and chili powder
3. Place layers of chips on bottom of 2-quart casserole. Alternate layers of chips, cheese and chili mixture, reserving 1/2 cup chips and 1/4 cup cheese for garnish. Sprinkle center with reserved cheese; place reserved chips around edge. Top with ripe pitted olives. Bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees or until heated through.
Yield: 6-8 servings.

Picture: courtesy of Bearcooks Food

Papaya Preserve for the Holidays

December 21, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Back on the block, the favorite dessert for this time of year was, invariably, bread pudding or, as we called it, “Budin.” The rest of the year, our desserts were the usual stuff: tembleque (a coconut based custard) or flan. But, for the holidays, my mother also created a family favorite: Dulce de Lechosa (Papaya Preserve). We weren’t the only ones. Our barrio neighborhood would be redolent with the fragrance of simmered papayas ready to be consumed by all. Neighbors would vie as to who had the best dulce de lechosa in the apartment building. Every time I prepare this regal dish, those memories awaken.

Let me state that papayas are as delicate fruit. When green they taste awful.They are best when ripe. But be aware that if too ripe, they’ll dry out. You can discern ripeness by a smooth yellow color and tenderness to the touch. Overripe papayas will start to discolor. So seek out fruit that is mellow yet firm and unblemished. For cooking purposes, a moderately ripe one will do. Some cooks claim only green papayas should be used for making a preserve. The problem with that is that more sugar or honey is needed. Whether ripe or green, store the preserve in the refrigerator in a glass bowl.

The recipe given is from my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). Though this dessert is common in the holidays, you can serve all year round. It’s that good. Also, some prefer to serve it over ice cream, or with whipped cream on top. In my family we like it as is, with nothing extra to mar it’s great taste.

DULCE DE LECHOSA
(Papaya Preserve)

3 medium ripe papayas, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips.
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 quarts water
2 sticks cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground anise seed
2-3 cups sugar, depending on taste, or 1/2 cup honey (or more to taste)

1. Place papayas in a saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and let stand 5 minutes.
2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a pot or heavy kettle but not aluminum for it will stain. Add 2 quarts water, cinnamon stick and anise seed.
3. Bring to a boil and cook on low-moderate heat, uncovered for 15 minutes or until tender.
4. Add sugar or honey and continue cooking, uncovered, for 20 minutes or until sugar is thick and syrupy.
5. Remove cinnamon sticks and allow papaya to cool at room temperature.
6. Serve in a dessert bowl or store in a glass jar or container.

Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of PK Diet

Winter Drinks for the Holidays

December 12, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The thermometer dips, Christmas decorations abound, and gift-shopping is the norm. It’s that time of year again. Winter and the holidays are upon us. It’s also a time for warming drinks. Eggnog is the old standby; and in my culture we have coquito. Yet there are other winter drinks that are just as delicious and warm you all over. These beverages have been with us since anyone could remember. They have become winter solstice tradition. I cite three favorites: mulled wine; hot toddy; and hot buttered rum. So, while it’s bitterly cold outside, sit back in your favorite armchair, wrap yourself and your love one in a nice blanket or comforter, and savor one of these beverages.

MULLED WINE

This drink goes back to Ancient Rome, where it was first recorded. So, the idea of heating wine and adding herbs and spices is not new. It was very popular in Victorian England, and it still remains so today. The chintziest recipe I came across is noted in the fabled Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide, which calls it “Mulled Claret;” and has sugar, lemon, bitters, nutmeg and cinnamon placed in a metal mug, along with the wine, and then a heated red hot poker is put in the liquid until boiling. Not many people have access to a red hot poker these days thus my recipe is more conventional.

In a large saucepan, combine one bottle (730 ml) red wine (Cabernet, Zinfandel, Burgundy, Merlot), 1/4 cup honey, 1 cup apple cider, 5 whole cloves, 3 cinnamon sticks, 3 star anise, 1 teaspoon ground ginger or allspice. Bring to a boil and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Stir occasionally to make sure the honey had completely dissolved and the ingredients have been well blended. Pour into mugs and serve. If desired, you can add a thin, round orange slice to each serving. Serves about 4-6.

HOT TODDY

Another oldie. It was once touted as a sure-fire cure for colds and the flu. I don’t know about that, but it’s great for wet and cold weather. Supposedly, the toddy (or “tottie”) is Scottish in origin. The alcohol of choice for a toddy is whiskey; but you can substitute dark rum if desired.

In a 5-ounce glass put one lump or teaspoon of sugar. Add 2 ounces whiskey. Then fill glass with boiling water. Stir and decorate with a lemon slice, and sprinkle with nutmeg on top.

HOT BUTTERED RUM

The drink of hardened sailors in the old days. The drink traces its lineage to the American colonies, where it had been around since the 1650s.

In a mug put one lump or teaspoon of sugar. Add 2 ounces of dark rum, 1/2 teaspoon butter and 4 whole cloves. Add a pinch of nutmeg, fill with boiling water and stir to combine. Another variation is to float the butter on top (after adding the other ingredients), and include a cinnamon stick (which can also be used as a stirrer).

Leeks Rule

December 6, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

“Eat, I pray you: will you have some more sauce to your leek? There is not enough leek to swear by.”

—Henry V, Act V. scene 1

Going by the above quote, it seems even Shakespeare had a thing about leeks. Next question is: what the hell are leeks? This is something I asked myself when, in my young manhood, I discovered this edible. Growing up in my family’s modest apartment in the projects, my mother had cooked with garlic, onions and scallions. But never leeks. We didn’t know they existed, although they are included in the onion and garlic family. Today I am an unabashed proponent of the lowly leek.

Leeks have been with us since the beginning of time. It was a staple in Ancient Egypt. Historians note that it was the favorite vegetable of Emperor Nero. He would eat them in soup or in oil. Nero fancied himself a great singing artist, and he believe that leeks would enhance the quality of his singing voice. The Leek (along with the daffodil) is one of the national emblems of Wales. It is said that when the Saxons invaded Wales in the 6^th century, Welshmen wore a leek in their cap to identify them from the invaders least they be mowed down by friendly fire (i.e. arrows) from their own fellows. That being said, leeks taste great. They have a unique pungent flavor yet are milder and sweeter than an onion. I’m sure Welsh warriors loved dining on them as much as I do.

Below are given two easy recipes using this fabulous ingredient. Note that leeks have to be completely washed and cleaned, and you have to get at the dirt within the stalks. Once they’re cleaned, everything else is a snap.

CORNISH GAME HENS WITH LEEKS

Take 3 Cornish game hens (1 to 1 ½ pounds), split in half and coat with about 2 tablespoons of olive brushed over the birds. Season liberally with ground black pepper and oregano, and salt to taste. Tuck 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves beneath the breast skin of each hen half. Take seven large leeks, white part sliced thin, and place the strips of leeks across the game hens. Place in a baking pan large enough to hold the hens. Top each hen piece with a pat of butter, and drizzle with a couple of splashes of dry white wine. Bake in a preheated 375 degree F. oven for 1 hour.

FISH FILLETS WITH LEEKS

Bake or steam four large fish fillets or 4 fish steaks seasoned with salt and black ground pepper. While the fish is cooking, take 6-7 large leaks and slice them lengthwise. Then a in a frying pan or skillet, sauté them in 2 tablespoons butter combined with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Mix in 6 sprigs fresh thyme and 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil. Transfer the cooked leeks with the herbs to a serving platter, place the fish atop the leeks, and serve.

Puerto Rican Turkey Stuffing

November 26, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

Every year I post my Puerto Rican Thanksgiving Turkey recipe; or what I term the “Boricua” Turkey. To recap: a Boricua (boh-ree-kuah) is a native born Puerto Rican. However, these days it could mean anyone of Puerto Rican descent whether they were born on the island or not. That being said, I’m going to depart from tradition this time around. I always post the recipe, and it is delicious since we season it up the turkey so that it tastes like pork, which was at one time the traditional dish for the holidays—until the pork was supplanted by the turkey just like they do on the mainland. Our holiday bird is more flavorful than its North American counterpart. That’s all well and good, but I’ve gotten complaints that I never post the stuffing, as it is noted in my cookbook. Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). So, here it is, our family’s traditional Puerto Rican stuffing for the Boricua turkey. Our recipe includes rum (to give it that Boricua taste). Note that the rum is boiled away in the cooking and only the flavor remains. One of the components that makes this stuffing unique.

RELLENO PARA PAVO
(Turkey Stuffing)

2 tablespoon olive oil
2 pounds lean ground beef or 1 1/2 pounds bulk pork sausage (for a spicier variation, Spanish chorizo can
be used), coarsely chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 pound mushrooms, washed and chopped
1 medium apple, peeled and chopped
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Poultry seasoning to taste (optional)
1 cup seeded raisins, soaked in 1/2 cup warm water for 10 minutes
1 cup walnuts, chopped
8 cups bread crumbs
1/2 cup white Puerto Rican rum
1/2 cup chicken bouillon or broth

1. In a large skillet or kettle, heat olive oil and cook meat, stirring frequently until it loses its red color. If using sausage, it should be cooked until browned. Drain but reserve fat.
2. Add onions, mushrooms and apple. Season to taste with salt, pepper and poultry seasoning (if using), and sauté until apples are slightly softened. It may be necessary to add some of the reserve fat to keep mixture from sticking. Add drained raisins, walnuts and bread crumbs. Cook for about 3 minutes. Stir in white rum, chicken bouillon or broth and sauté for about 5 minutes more.
3. Remove from heat. When cool, stuff turkey about three-quarters full, and follow roasting instructions.
Yield: about 10 cups.

Note: Any extra stuffing can be placed in a covered glass casserole and baked along with the turkey for the last 45 minutes of cooking. Or it can be saved for later use and heated up with the leftovers. (I recommend baking at 350 degrees F. for 30 minutes).

Picture: courtesy of Fashion Belief

Hunan Cooking: Lamb

November 21, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

In the last few years, Szechuan-style Chinese cooking has caught on on both coasts. To many of us, after years of eating bland Cantonese-style food, Szechuan cooking was a revelation. It has a spicy, hot component because of its use of chili peppers. It should be noted that, initially, chili peppers were not used in Chinese cooking. They had their own milder variety, farago, also called Chinese pepper or Szechuan pepper. Then, when Portuguese and Spanish traders introduced chilies to the region in the 16th century, the cooking became even more peppery. Hunan cooking is part of this culinary tradition; but it is less well known than its Szechuan cousin. It is often lumped with Yunnan in the south as representative of China’s western regional style of cooking. But there are differences. Not only does it feature the subtle uses of hot spices within the food, it also engages hot and sour and sweet and sour flavor combinations.

Like its neighbors, Hunan does employ stewing and stir-frying techniques along with simmering and steaming. But Hunan cooks are fortunate that they have more ingredients and materials to work with and thus can do more and be more innovative with the ingredients prior to cooking. For example, a classic dish such as orange beef not only contains dried orange peel, but the beef is marinated overnight, washed, and marinated again in egg white, wine, and pepper, then cooked twice in a wok with fresh chili, ginger and orange peel. Another classic dish, General Tso’s chicken, has the chicken marinated in a mix of egg, salt, and pepper, and uses a sauce prior to cooking that has garlic, sugar, rice vinegar, rice wine, chili peppers, and scallions. Hunam lamb is not so outlandish or complicated, but it does have that exquisite Hunan taste. Serve with boiled rice.

HUNAN LAMB

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon rice vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
4 small dried hot chili peppers, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh shredded ginger
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
2 stalks scallion, washed and thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 pound boneless lamb meat, sliced into thin strips (can use boneless lamb leg, lamb shoulder, or stew
meat)
1 teaspoon sesame oil

1. In a medium bowl whisk together the soy sauce, wine, cornstarch, vinegar, sugar, and water. Reserve
2. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over high heat. Add the chili peppers, ginger, garlic, and scallion, and stir-fry for about half a minute.
3. Add the lamb and stir-fry until the lamb is no longer pink. Add the sauce mixture and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened (1 to 2 minutes). Stir in the sesame oil, remove from heat, and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of JING JING – Szechuan & Hunan Gourmet

Eggah – Arabic Egg Cake

November 13, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Most authorities regard eggah as a dish in Arab cuisine that is similar to an omelet or frittata. Some would say it’s like a tortilla. I would say it’s more like an egg cake. In fact, eggah is nothing like an omelet (or omelette). To my mind, an omelet is something light and fluffy. Eggah is nothing like that. It generally has a filling of chicken, meat, vegetables or noodles. And it’s big, about an inch thick or more. You cut it into slices like a cake. And some cooks bake it in a rectangular dish and serve it in squares like Sicilian pizza.

In Arabic culture, eggah can be served as an appetizer, side dish or even an entree. And it can be eaten hot or cold. As noted, it can be cooked in the oven or on top of the stove. If doing the latter, you require a good, heavy frying pan, preferably cast-iron. Also, the dish should be cooked on low heat for the eggs to set. Butter, usually clarified butter, is used to cook the dish. I depart from this in that I prefer extra virgin olive oil. Another fact: in Iraq the dish is called kuku. I don’t know why.

EGGAH WITH CHICKEN AND NOODLES

1 1/2 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, cooked and cubed. Note: you can also used leftover
cooked chicken—as long as it’s been boned
1 pound tagliatelle or fettuccine noodles
4 eggs
3 cardamon pods, cracked (these can be found in any Asian, Indian or Arabic store)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup fresh chopped parsley

1. To cook chicken breasts: just place them in a pot with water to cover, bring to a boil, lower heat and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes; then cube or cut into small pieces.
2. Cook the noodles according to package direction, but only until al dente. Do not overcook. You can add the chicken stock from the chicken breasts used in the water for boiling the noodles. Drain and set aside.
3. In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the chicken, noodles, cardamom, salt and pepper, and mix well to combine.
4. Heat oil in a large frying pan or heavy skillet. Add the egg mixture and cook over very low heat for about 1/2 hour, or until the mixture sets. Brown the top under the broiler for about 2 minutes.
5. Top with parsley and serve as is in the pan, cutting into slices. Or, if desired, unmold onto a serving dish and serve that way.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Picture: courtesy of Pinterest

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