desserts – Page 2 – Oswald Rivera

Category: desserts (page 2 of 3)

Zabaglione

July 30, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Martino Rossi, nee Martino da Como, nee Martino de Rubeis, nee Giovanni Rosselli, was also known as Maestro Martino (Martino the master), presumably because of his cooking prowess as shown in his four manuscripts known as Libro de Arte Coquinaria. This is an extremely important book in the history of cuisine. It was the first cookbook that had somewhat precise recipes and was well organized. It was printed in Latin in 1475, then in Italian, French, and English; and it was a popular treatise well into the 1700s.

In his magnum opus, Martino Rossi describes a dessert comprised of eggs yolks, sugar,cinnamon, and sweetish wine. He calls it Zabaglione (roughly translated: eggnog). Today, Zabaglione is one of Italy’s most famous desserts. Rossi says that Zabaglione should be served when “it soils the spoon.” (translation: when it is so thick it sticks to the spoon). Modern Zabaglione is made just prior to serving, usually in a copper sauce pot, and should be served immediately after it has thickened.

ZABAGLIONE

6 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup marsala wine
1 tablespoon white wine

1. Mix all of the ingredients in the top of a double boiler. Cook over boiling water, beating the mixture constantly until it warms and thickens.
2. Remove from heat and continue beating until the mixture is fluffy. Serve in a serving bowl or individual cups or glasses. The Zabaglione, though thickened, should be soft, smooth, and light. One may have to add more or less sugar and/or wine depending on the consistency desired, some prefer it heavier, some prefer it lighter.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: In some quarters, modern day Zabaglione is served over Italian macaroons (amaretti). Simply crumble the macaroons in the bottom of a serving bowl and pour the Zabaglione on top.

Photo: courtesy of StockFood/Paul Poplis Photography, Inc.

Scones—Blueberry Friday!

If you’ve ever had a typical English breakfast, then you know what scones are. Think of an English breakfast biscuit, but on the sweet side. I like scones, especially when I discovered that on the Star Trek series, Deep Space Nine, it was the favorite breakfast dish of Dr. Bashir, one of the main characters on the show. Scones are a dense, rich pastry of Scottish origin, where it has been served since 1513. In Scotland it evolved as a quick bread that made its way to English tables to accompany tea. They come in several versions including soda scones (made with baking soda), potato scones, or griddle scones (which are cooked on a griddle). Some say the word “scone” comes from the ancient capital of Scotland (Scone, Scotland), where ancient Scottish monarchs were crowned.

My Seattle friend, Paul Goldstein, has a sweet tooth for scones. And this is his recipe. Now, scones come in various shapes: triangles, rounds and squares, with round being the most popular these days. They are sweet since the often contain such fruit as raspberries, cranberries, raisins. etc. Although this recipe calls for blueberry scones, you can use whatever flavored scones you like. Also, you can bake your own scones, but Paul goes the easier route—just buy them at the store or supermarket. An 18-ounce pack will yield you six scones. This is a very easy recipe to make that you can enjoy either for breakfast or as a quick dessert. Either way you can’t go wrong.

BLUEBERRY FRIDAY SCONES

2 blueberry scones
1 pint vanilla ice cream (preferably French vanilla)
1 pint blueberries, or more if desired
Whipped cream

1. Cut the scones in half. Spoon ice cream about 1/2-inch thick over each scone.
2. Place blueberries around the outside of the scones and then top with a generous amount of whipped cream. That’s it.
Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of Bulldog Baked Goods

Papaya Preserve (A Glorious Dessert)

June 11, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Back on the block, when I was coming up in the world, one of our favorite desserts was papaya, especially Dulce de Papaya, or papaya preserve. I love papayas. They are a delicate fruit whose peak season is from June until September. They are great right now. Although today, in most supermarkets, they are available year round. When papayas are green, they taste awful. But when ripe, they are delicious. Still, be aware that if too ripe they’ll dry out. You can discern ripeness by a smooth yellow color and tenderness to the touch. An overripe papaya will start to discolor. So seek out only that fruit which is mellow yet firm and unblemished.

For cooking purposes, a moderately ripe papaya will do. Some cooks say only green ones should be used for making a preserve. The problem with that is that more sugar is needed as a sweetener. I’ve discovered with the recipe given below that you can use sugar or maple syrup (which is my innovation). Since I spend my summers in Vermont, I prefer the maple syrup, which is healthier. Oh, yes, the recipe is from my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group, Running Press).

DULCE DE LECHOSA
(Papaya Preserve)

3 medium ripe papayas, peeled, seeded, and cut into into 1/2-inch strips
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 quarts water
2 sticks cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground anise seed
1 cup maple syrup (or 2 cups sugar)

1. Place papayas in saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and let stand 5 minutes.
2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a pot or heavy kettle but not aluminum for it will stain. Add 2 quarts water, cinnamon sticks and anise seed.
3. Bring to a boil and cook on low-to-moderate heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until tender.
4. Add maple syrup and continue cooking, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Note: if using sugar, cook until sugar is thick and syrupy.
3. Remove cinnamon sticks and allow papaya preserve to cool at room temperature.
6. Serve in a dessert bowl or store in glass jar or container in the refrigerator.
Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: courtesy of Vegetarian Times

Margarita Pie

May 6, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The margarita cocktail, which some believe was the precursor of the margarita pit (MexGrocer.com)

(photo: courtesy of MexGrocer.com)

How about an adult pie? What? Something like a margarita pie. I’m sure we’ve all heard of the margarita cocktail. It’s become an American favorite: a concoction of tequila mixed with Cointreau or similar orange-flavored liqueur, lime or lemon juice, with the glass often rimmed with salt. Well, there’s an edible version very popular in the western U.S. and the plain states—and that’s the margarita pie.

The origins of this dessert are unknown. Enough to say that this is not a dessert for kids. But if you want to liven up your next bash, and there are no teetotalers around, this is a fabulous dessert.

MARGARITA PIE

1 ¼ cup finely crushed pretzels

¼ cup white sugar

½ cup melted butter

2 limes, zested and juiced

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

4 tablespoons gold tequila

2 tablespoons triple sec or orange-flavored liqueur

1 cup whipped heavy cream

Orange rind twists, for garnish

Mint leaves, for garnish

1. In a medium bowl, combine the pretzels, sugar and butter. Mix well. Press mixture into a buttered 9-inch pie plate. Chill for 1 hour.

2. In a large bowl, combine lime juice, lime zest, condensed milk, tequila, and triple sec. Fold in whipped cream.

3. Pour into cold pie crust and freeze for 4 hours until firm or chill for 2 hours in the refrigerator until firm.

4. Garnish with orange twists and mint leaves, and serve.

Yield: 6 servings or more.

Churros for Cinco de Mayo

April 29, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Cinco de Mayo is coming up. That is, the fifth of May holiday that is celebrated in Mexico, and now is popular in the United States. In the U.S. the holiday is a misnomer in a way. They regard it as Mexican Independence Day, something similar to our Fourth of July. In actuality, Cinco de Mayo celebrates the Battle of Puebla in Mexico wherein the French invaded Mexico (they saw an opportunity while the U.S. was busy fighting a Civil War), and 6,500 Frenchmen cam up against 4,000 Mexicans. A bloody battle ensued, and the Mexican army won. And what began as a local celebration in Puebla, is now celebrated in most other Mexican states as well.

In the fiesta of Cinco de Mayo, traditional foods such as guacamole, tamales, and tacos are enjoyed. But, how about something different for this coming Cinco de Mayo fest? Something delicious and sweet. I’m talking about churros. Basically, it’s a deep fried pastry dough also know as a Spanish doughnut. It was developed centuries ago by Spanish goat herders since it could be cooked quick and easy over an open fire. With the Spanish conquest of the Americas it wasn’t long before the dish made its way up to the Southwest, where it came be known as a Spanish cruller. I like churros; always have. It’s one of the best meals ever, either as a dessert or other.

CHURROS

1 cup water

½ cup butter or margarine

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

3 eggs

Vegetable oil

¼ cup brown sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. In a 3-quart saucepan, heat water, butter and salt over medium heat until it comes to a rolling boil. Add flour and stir over low heat until mixture forms into a ball, about 1 minute.

2. Remove from heat, add eggs and beat until smooth.

3. In a dip fryer or frying pan heat 1 ½ inches of oil to 360 degrees F.

4. Spoon pastry mixture into a decorator’s pastry tube fitted with a large star tip. Squeeze 4-inch strips of dough into the hot oil and fry, 3 or 4 strips at a time, until golden brown, turning once, about 2 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels.

5. On a plate, mix cinnamon and sugar, and roll crullers in sugar mixture, and serve.

Yield: about 2 dozen crullers.

caption: courtesy of POSTRES de la Cipota

Irish Soda Bread

March 14, 2013 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Saint Patrick’s day is just around the corner—which means green beer, corned beef and cabbage, and Irish soda bread. The green beer you can keep. I tried it once and got sick as a dog. Corned beef and cabbage I like. But it’s Irish soda bread I love. I can eat a whole loaf by itself just with butter. It’s particular consistency and taste is delightful. So imagine my chagrin when I found out the Irish didn’t invent Irish soda bread. Baking soda, which is used as leavening agent instead of yeast, has been around for centuries. In fact, if anyone can be credited with inventing “Irish” soda bread it is Native American Indians, who used soda ash or “pearl ash” to leaven their bread. The chemical compound, bicarbonate of soda, wasn’t used in Ireland before the 1840s. So how did the Irish come to claim this bread as their own? And this, like most things, comes down to economics. Hard wheat flour, the kind used today by almost everyone, requires yeast so that the bread can rise and then be baked. Back then, as in most poor countries, the Irish had access to only soft wheat flour, which doesn’t do well with yeast but is great for quick breads such as Irish soda bread. Another factor was that most Irish homes did not have ovens, they had open hearths, thus the breads were baked on griddles or big iron pots over open flames. This meant the Irish remained with soft wheat flour and soda bread, while Britain and the Americas stayed with hard wheat flour and yeast.

Mush has changed since the bad old days. And today Irish soda bread is an international favorite not only in Ireland here but also here the U.S., and elsewhere. Another tidbit: why, in some parts of Ireland, do they still cut a cross on top of the bread with a knife? Ostensibly this is to ward off the devil and keep evil spirits away from the home. Whether you buy this or not is immaterial—the bread does warm the tummy.

Here is my own recipe for Irish soda bread. I got it years ago from someone, I can’t remember who (most probably during a bash in some pub on St. Paddy’s Day); but it’s a favorite with family and friends, Irish or otherwise.

IRISH SODA BREAD

4 cups flour (and more as needed)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 stick butter
2 cups buttermilk
1 cup raisins

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and sugar. Cut in the butter. Make a well in the center and add the buttermilk. Mix lightly and quickly to make a wet dough. Fold in the raisins.
3. Turn out on a floured board, and add a little more flour as needed. Knead ten times or more.
4. Shape into a 7 or 8-inch loaf pan which has been lightly greased (with Crisco shortening). With a knife, cut a cross on top of the bread. Place in oven and bake for 45 minutes or until golden. The bread is done when a knife stuck in the middle, comes out clean. Turn the loaf out onto a cooling rack and let it cool briefly before slicing.
Yield: Makes one loaf (4 servings or more).

Sugar Cream Pie

December 18, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

The Holiday Season, whether Christmas, Hanukkak or Zwanza, is a time for sweets. Plum pudding, jelly doughnuts, sweet potato pie, are some of the traditional weight gainers during this time. With that in mind, let me offer another sweet that is not that well known outside of a certain region. What I’m talking about is sugar cream pie, a dish almost exclusive to Indiana. I don’t know anywhere else where it’s so popular.

The origins of sugar cream pie can be traced to Indiana’s Amish community in the 1850s. Other sources credit the Shaker community for its invention. The Shakers were a religious sect that migrated from England to America in the 18th century. They were an interesting lot. Their actual name was “The United Society of Believers in Christ‘s Second Coming.” So why were they called the “Shakers?” Apparently this came about due to their fervor during their religious communal meetings where they would sing, shout and dance, twitching and shaking all over the place. Apart from this shaking business, they are remembered for the quality of their craftsmanship, especially in the style know as “Shaker furniture,” which today because of its workmanship and quality is rather expensive to acquire.

The Shakers believed in frugality and good, honest labor. They also believed in celibacy—which became a sticking point since they couldn’t reproduce themselves. According to The Independent, a publication in the United Kingdom, as of December 2009 there were only three members left in the continental U.S. But, as with their Amish brethren (who don’t believe in celibacy) they left us such a delight as sugar cream pie. Both groups believed in good, hearty, healthy food. But that does not preclude their sweet tooth as exemplified by this dessert.

SUGAR CREAM PIE

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup lightly packed brown sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon butter

8-inch unbaked pie shell

1. In a medium bowl, mix together flour, sugar, salt, and nutmeg.

2. Gradually add cream, vanilla, and butter; and stir until smooth.

3. Pour into pie shell and bake 35 minutes at 450 degrees F., or 1 ½ hours at 350 degrees. Remove from oven and let cool at room temperature before serving.

Yield: 6-8 servings.

Photo: Courtesy of Food Frenzy

Jelly Doughnuts

December 5, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Hanukkah (or Chanukah) celebrates the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days during the re-dedication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem following the Jewish victory over pagan Syrian-Greeks in 165 B.C.E. Legend has it that the victors had only enough oil for one day but, miraculously, it lasted eight days. The Jewish Menorah commemorates this. My father, who held all religious symbols suspect, would often quip as to what kind of oil they were using: was it Progresso olive oil or Goya? Be it as it may, since oil is the cornerstone of the holiday, fried foods are often served during this time, the most popular being latkas, or potato pancakes. But one of my favorite treats at Hanukkah is sufganiyot, or jelly-filled doughnuts.

Jelly-filled doughnuts has an interesting history. They are variously called Berliners by German and paczki by Poles. No one really knows where or how they originated. Although some trace it to a 1485 cookbook, Kuchenmeisterei (Mastery of the Kitchen), which gives a recipe consisting of jam sandwiched between two rounds of yeast dough bread and deep-fried in lard. Then, sometime later, someone got the idea of injecting jelly into deep-fried doughnuts. In the upper Midwest jelly doughnuts are called “jam busters, and are extremely popular. If you’re fan of any kind of doughnut, these suckers are delicious.

JELLY DOUGHNUTS

2 envelopes (1/4 ounce each) active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
1 cup warm milk
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting baking sheets or surface

1/3 cup butter, softened

5 cups vegetable or canola oil for frying, plus more for coating a bowl

1 (13 1/2 ounce jar) strawberry jelly, fruit jelly or jam

Powdered sugar (as much as needed)

1. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water and let stand for about 5 minutes or until foamy.

2. In a large bowl, combine yeast mixture, milk, sugar, vanilla, salt, and flour. mix ingredients until smooth and soft but not sticky. If using a mixer, mix on low speed for a few minutes until a shaggy dough forms. Add butter, increase speed to medium, and mix until dough is smooth.

3. Grease another large bowel with oil. Form the dough into a ball. Place dough in the bowl, turning to coat with oil. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel. Set aside in a warm spot and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

4. Lightly flour a baking sheet or surface (a large wooden square block is perfect for this). Turn the dough onto the floured surface and, using a rolling pin, roll out until about 1/2-inch thick. Using a lightly floured 2-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible (should have 25 or more). Place on a lightly floured sheet or surface, spacing them apart. Again, loosely cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel, and let rise until doubled in size, about 20-30 minutes.

5. Heat oil in a deep fryer, large skillet or large pot to 350 degrees F. Using a flat spatula, carefully slide the dough rounds into hot oil and, working in batches to avoid overcrowding, fry until they rise to the surface, then turn over and fry until puffy and golden brown (2-3 minutes). Drain on paper towels.

6. When doughnuts have cooled, using a paring knife, cut a small slit in the side of the doughnut and fill this center with jelly (about 1 tablespoon), using a pastry injector, syringe, piping bag, or small spoon. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

Yield: 25 or more jelly doughnuts.

Caption: courtesy of petemonico.com

Sweet Potato Pie

October 22, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

My uncle Phillip, of late memory, had a lady friend, Margie Jones, who made the best sweet potato pie I ever tasted. When I was a youngster, we would trot over to her place in Harlem and feast on this delicacy. Uncle Phillip, who was a lady’s man extraordinaire, apparently appreciated the many attributes Miss Jones brought to the table, including her delicious pie. At the time I didn’t know that it was a traditional southern dish. I knew I just loved the dessert.

2-3 sweet potatoes, about 1 pound

½ cup butter, softened

½ cup milk

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

3 eggs

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup whipped cream.

1. Boil sweet potatoes whole in their skin for 40-50 minutes, or until done and tender. Run cold water over the potatoes and when cool, remove skin.

2. Place in a medium bowl and break apart with a fork. Add butter and mix well. Stir in sugar, milk, eggs, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and vanilla. Combine and mix well until mixture is smooth. Pour filling into pie crust.

3. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 55-60 minutes, or knife inserted in center comes out clean. Pie will puff up like a soufflé, and then will sink down as it cools. Serve garnished with whipped cream.

Yield: 6 servings or more.

Photo: courtesy of photobucket

Bananas with Coconut Cream

June 29, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

For every dinner, dessert is the crowning achievement. But ice cream, pie, and the usual fruit gets tiresome after a while. Here is a recipe that will wake everybody up. Its centerpiece is bananas. Yes, bananas. It’s the easiest thing to prepare, and it’s bound to impress your significant other or anybody else for that matter. Strikingly simple to make and scrumptious. Guys and gals, no fancy gimmicks here, Just sautee the bananas and serve with peach slices. Now, if you wan to exaggerate a bit, you can say how you slaved over the stove just to come up with this fancy-dan dessert. And who’s to know? At the end of the meal, your family and friends will sing your praises.

The recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books – Thunder’s Mouth Press). And it’s an example of how we dress up a basic fruit and make it glorious.

GUINEOS CON CREMA DE COCO
(Bananas with Coconut Cream)

2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 ripe bananas, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise
1 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 cup cream of coconut
Fresh peach halves

1. Melt butter in a large pan or skillet
2. Add bananas and saute briefly until well coated
3. Sprinkle with lime juice.
4. Remove bananas to serving dish and spoon cream of coconut over them.
5. Garnish with peach halves and serve.
Yield: 4 or more servings.

Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher