The Holiday Season, whether Christmas, Hanukkak or Zwanza, is a time for sweets. Plum pudding, jelly doughnuts, sweet potato pie, are some of the traditional weight gainers during this time. With that in mind, let me offer another sweet that is not that well known outside of a certain region. What I’m talking about is sugar cream pie, a dish almost exclusive to Indiana. I don’t know anywhere else where it’s so popular.
The origins of sugar cream pie can be traced to Indiana’s Amish community in the 1850s. Other sources credit the Shaker community for its invention. The Shakers were a religious sect that migrated from England to America in the 18th century. They were an interesting lot. Their actual name was “The United Society of Believers in Christ‘s Second Coming.” So why were they called the “Shakers?” Apparently this came about due to their fervor during their religious communal meetings where they would sing, shout and dance, twitching and shaking all over the place. Apart from this shaking business, they are remembered for the quality of their craftsmanship, especially in the style know as “Shaker furniture,” which today because of its workmanship and quality is rather expensive to acquire.
The Shakers believed in frugality and good, honest labor. They also believed in celibacy—which became a sticking point since they couldn’t reproduce themselves. According to The Independent, a publication in the United Kingdom, as of December 2009 there were only three members left in the continental U.S. But, as with their Amish brethren (who don’t believe in celibacy) they left us such a delight as sugar cream pie. Both groups believed in good, hearty, healthy food. But that does not preclude their sweet tooth as exemplified by this dessert.
SUGAR CREAM PIE
Hanukkah (or Chanukah) celebrates the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days during the re-dedication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem following the Jewish victory over pagan Syrian-Greeks in 165 B.C.E. Legend has it that the victors had only enough oil for one day but, miraculously, it lasted eight days. The Jewish Menorah commemorates this. My father, who held all religious symbols suspect, would often quip as to what kind of oil they were using: was it Progresso olive oil or Goya? Be it as it may, since oil is the cornerstone of the holiday, fried foods are often served during this time, the most popular being latkas, or potato pancakes. But one of my favorite treats at Hanukkah is sufganiyot, or jelly-filled doughnuts.
Jelly-filled doughnuts has an interesting history. They are variously called Berliners by German and paczki by Poles. No one really knows where or how they originated. Although some trace it to a 1485 cookbook, Kuchenmeisterei (Mastery of the Kitchen), which gives a recipe consisting of jam sandwiched between two rounds of yeast dough bread and deep-fried in lard. Then, sometime later, someone got the idea of injecting jelly into deep-fried doughnuts. In the upper Midwest jelly doughnuts are called “jam busters, and are extremely popular. If you’re fan of any kind of doughnut, these suckers are delicious.
JELLY DOUGHNUTS
2 envelopes (1/4 ounce each) active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
1 cup warm milk
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting baking sheets or surface
A Puerto Rican Holiday Drink similar to Eggnog, or egg nog.
Available in my book: Page 255. https://www.amazon.com/Puerto-Rican-Cuisine-America-Nuyorican/dp/1568582447
My uncle Phillip, of late memory, had a lady friend, Margie Jones, who made the best sweet potato pie I ever tasted. When I was a youngster, we would trot over to her place in Harlem and feast on this delicacy. Uncle Phillip, who was a lady’s man extraordinaire, apparently appreciated the many attributes Miss Jones brought to the table, including her delicious pie. At the time I didn’t know that it was a traditional southern dish. I knew I just loved the dessert.
By now most of us are, as the saying goes, “tomatoed-out.” In the dark days of winter we dream of fresh, succulent vine-ripened tomatoes. By late August, we’ve just about had our fill. I mean, how many tomato salads or stuffed tomatoes can you have? Well, kiddies, the season will last until October. And, yes, there are still many innovative ways to use this vegetable. Below are given some ingenious ways to use tomatoes. So, in the middle of a frosty February, you can again begin to dream of the fresh juicy crop come June .
RAW TOMATO SAUCE
That’s right, a raw sauce where the tomatoes don’t have to be cooked. Simple: In a bowl, combine 1 pound chopped tomatoes or 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved; 1/2 cup diced mozzarella cheese; 1/3 cup chopped black olives; 1/4 cup olive oil; 1 teaspoon capers; 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar and 2 garlic cloves, minced. Stir in 1/4 cup fresh chopped basil, 1 teaspoon oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Let the bowl stand for 1/2 hour to allow the flavors to combine. Toss with you favorite hot pasta. 4 servings.
TOMATO WITH BASIL AND MOZZARELLA
The all time favorite, and the easiest thing to prepare: Wash and slice off the tops and bottoms of 1 pound tomatoes, and cut the tomatoes into about 3 slices each. Slice 1/2 pound mozzarella very thinly; wash and dry 10-12 large basil leaves (more if the leaves are small). On a salad plate, arrange the mozzarella and basil on the tomato slices, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with some oregano and pepper. 4-3 servings.
TOMATO GRATIN
A fancy-fied tomato dish to impress your guests: Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Cut 2 large beefsteak tomatoes into 1/2-inch slices. Arrange the slices, slightly overlapping, in an oiled 9-inch gratin dish or shallow casserole. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons finely chopped basil, and 1 teaspoon oregano. Cook 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced, in a small pan or skillet over moderate heat, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle over the tomatoes, and bake in the middle of oven until bread crumbs are golden, about 15 minutes. 4 servings.
TOMATO-FETA PITA SANDWICHES
In a large bowl, combine 1/4 cup olive oil and 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon oregano, and salt and pepper to taste; 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved; 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced; 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped; 1/3 cup black olives, halved; 1 small red onion, chopped; and 1/2 cup fresh chopped parsley. Mix together, then stir in 1 cup crumbled feta cheese. Take 4 (8-inch) diameter pita bread, cut in halve and stuff with the tomato mixture. 4 servings.
HOMEMADE KETCHUP
That’s right, homemade ketchup. Believe me, much better than the stuff you get at the grocers, and much healthier. Store bought ketchup is all processed sugar and salt. Ca-ca. And the homemade brand is so easy to make: In a food processor, puree and blend 1/3 cup water; 3 small tomatoes, chopped; 2 tablespoons white vinegar; 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves; 1/4 teaspoon pepper; 1/3 cup honey; 1 tablespoon maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon cornstarch. That’s it. You’ll never use the store-bought stuff again.
Aioli is said to have originated in the Provence region of Southern France. It’s a traditional sauce composed of garlic, olive oil and egg. Yet there are many variations. Catalonia, in the northeastern part of the Iberian Peninsula, makes a version that uses olive oil and salt, pounded in a mortar until smooth, but minus the egg. The call it allioli. In Malta, they add crushed tomato to the mix. In other variations, mustard may be added, or even pears. Most people likened aioli to mayonnaise, because of its smooth, creamy texture. But it’s nothing like mayo, it’s distinctively garlicky.
Some of us may have experienced aioli as a spread on sandwiches or as a side for fries. It’s more versatile that that. You can drizzle it on salads, or as a dipping sauce for seafood, meat and vegetables. It’s good on cold roasts, and perfect as a tasty addition when a teaspoon or two is added to fish soups. You can toss some spaghetti or linguine with aioli sauce and top with Parmesan cheese for a rich pasta dish.
Aioli is a popular summer dish when fresh vegetables and juicy garlic are all over the place. That being said, as a creamy condiment it’s good any time of the year. And it is quite easy to make at home. You can bypass the traditional mortar and pestle by using a bender or food processor. Saves a lot of time and mess. The only caveat is the question of using a raw egg. If you are concerned about this, then an egg substitute can be used in place of the raw egg.
AIOLI
Note: all ingredients must be at room temperature
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1/4 teaspoon salt, or more to taste (preferably sea salt)
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper to taste
1. Place garlic and salt in a blender or food processor, and pulse for about 2-3 seconds.
2. Add lemon juice and egg. Pulse the mixture in intervals until it well combined. Do not blend the mixture more than necessary.
3. Turn on the food processor again, and slowly add the oil, a few drops at a time. After about 1/3 of the oil has been added, add remaining oil in a slow steady stream. If the mixture is too thick, you can add a little water and blend in into the mixture until desired consistency.
4. Season with pepper and serve.
Yield: approximately 1 1/2 cups.
Note: picture courtesy of Anne Cusack/LAT
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