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Frogs’ Legs Provcencale

I know, you’re saying, “Frogs’ legs—what the f . . ..” Yes, kiddies, frog’s legs. That’s the recipe I want you to try. Now, hear me out. I admit, it’s most likely not your usual tidbit, and it’s mostly associated with hoity-toity French cuisine. Yet did you know that frog’s legs is a delicacy of Cantonese cooking, as well as Thai, Vietnamese, Portuguese, Spanish, Greek and Italian cuisine? Not to mention, it’s also popular in the southern regions of the U.S. In Indonesia it’s a national dish in the form of Swikee Kodok Oh, or frog’s legs soup usually served with rice. So, don’t get bummed out. It’s a favorite dish of a lot of people, not just our French brethren. Frog’s legs have a mild, enticing flavor similar to fish. They are also rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids (the good kind), vitamin A and potassium. Figure it this way: the suckers are good for you.

The historical record shows that frogs’ legs were popular in southern China as early as the first century of the Common Era. The Aztecs also had a yen for them. But, ironically, it was the Catholic Church that made them a staple in France. Early on, the church had a prohibition on eating meat on a certain number of days during the year, the most common being Friday. Gluttonous monks in France got around this by qualifying the frog as a fish, and not as a meat item. Naturally, since frogs grew wild during that time, hungry peasants got into the act by dutifully following the monk’s (and the Church’s example) and eating the frogs. And a national dish was born. They became so endemic with French cuisine that the favorite insult toward the French is referring to them as the Frogs.

The dish crossed the Atlantic by way of Louisiana, where the French speaking Cajun folk popularized it in New Orleans. And to this day they still enjoy it either deep-fried, sometimes breaded and sometimes not. Now, don’t get turned-off by it. Check out the recipe. Give it a chance. It might surprise you. Where can you get frog’ legs? Well, at most large supermarkets these days (most often in the seafood section). Barring that, at specialty food stores, and even on-line. They are usually sold frozen and already cleaned. Most Asian markets carry them, sometimes even fresh. For the more adventurous, you cay buy whole bullfrogs that can be cleaned and skinned at home. If you manage to get these, you can trim off the skin as if you were sliding off a glove from the legs. Then soak the legs in cold water for 2 hours before cooking to mellow out the flavor.

For the recipe given, you can use farmed or wild frog legs. Farmed legs tend to have a lighter hue, whereas their wild cousins have a richer, gamier taste. Most frogs’ legs are roughly the size of a small chicken wing. In all cases they should be plump and have a nice pink color.

FROGS’ LEGS PROVENCALE

12 large pairs of 24 small pairs frog’s legs
Cold milk to cover (whole or 2%)
1 can (1lb. 12oz) crushed tomatoes
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
Flour for dredging frogs’ legs
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup vegetable or corn oil
1/2 stick butter
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1. You need to keep the frogs’ legs flat as they cook. This is done by inserting one leg in between the two muscles of the lower part of the other leg.
2. Place the legs in a bowl and add cold milk to barely cover.
3. Place the tomatoes, undrained, in a small saucepan. Stir in the garlic and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
4. Meanwhile, blend the flour with the oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Remove one pair of legs at a time from the milk and dredge in flour, turning to coat well.
5. Heat oil in a large skillet or fry pan, add butter and, when it is quite hot, add the legs. Cook until golden on one side. Turn and cook until golden on the other side.
6. Transfer the legs to a serving dish and arrange them neatly in one layer.
7. Quickly heat the tomato sauce and spoon it over the legs. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve with a crusty loaf of bread.
Yield: 4 servings.

Clams for St. Valentine’s Day

February 6, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

St. Valentines’s day is just around the corner. Guys and gals, this time around instead of going out to some overpriced restaurant, why not cook your honey a sumptuous, extravagant meal featuring clams. Yes, clams. Why? Because clams throughout history have been regarded as an aphrodisiac. In other words, a sex stimulant. So what better way to celebrate the holiday? Casanova, the great lover himself, touted clams as a great aid in his many conquests. And, you know what? It ain’t too far off the mark. In 2005, in a study by Italian and American scientists, it was discovered that amino acids found in bivalves (clams, oysters, mussels, ext.) had the potential to raise sexual harmone levels. The study itself was conducted on a species of Mediterranean mussels that showed these bivalves contained amino D-aspartic acid and N-mythyl-D-aspartic acid that induced sexual harmone production in rats. There have been no follow-up studies to measure the impact on humans, but for all you out there who love shellfish, it’s great news.

To our forebears, even before science got into it, clams were regarded as an aphrodisiac because (as some noted) their plump flesh was likened in appearance to testicles. It stands to reason why someone like Casanova and, many others, would scarf up clams at the dinner table and elsewhere. But more. Let’s put it in serious perspective. A single serving of clams provides more than 100 percent of the daily allowance for iron. They are also a source of protein—which is excellent for sustaining energy. Do the math. But even for those of us who don’t consider clams as appetizing, they are delicious as in the following recipe in which they are prepared in a green sauce. This is a dish that is very popular in Spain. And believe me, you’re beloved will be very impressed and more. Serve the clams and sauce atop plain white rice and you will have a very interesting and, hopefully, entertaining evening on St. Valentine’s Day.

ALMEJAS CON SALSA VERDE
(Clams with Green sauce)

About 24 to30 littleneck clams
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped scallions
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano ( or 1/2 teaspoon fresh)
1/2 cup dry sherry
3/4 cup fresh or canned clam juice
1 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2-3 tablespoonswater
Salt to taste
1/2 cup chopped parsley
Hot cooked rice

1. Have the clams opened at the fish store, or open them by hand with a knife or clam opener. However, open the clams on the half shell, discarding the top shell. Leave the clam attached to the bottom shell. Reserve the clam liquid.
2. Heat the olive oil in a skillet or fry pan (I prefer cast-iron) until it’s very hot. Then add the clams on the half shell and garlic. Cook, stirring over high heat about 30 seconds. Be aware that if you cook them any longer the clams will toughen, and you don’t want that. Add the scallions, pepper, oregano and sherry. Add the clam liquid, clam juice and butter, and bring to a boil.
3. In a cup quickly blend the flour and water and stir it into the clam sauce. Stir until thickened. Add salt to taste. Stir in the parsley and mix.
4. Serve over rice.
Yield: 4 servings.

Sancocho

January 13, 2012 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Now that the weather has gotten a mite chillier (finally), our thoughts turn to warm, hardy comfort foods. Sancocho is such a variety. It is the archetypal Puerto Rican stew. It’s hearty and stick to the ribs fare.Think of the French cassoulet where pork, beans, lamb and sausages are all mixed together in a casserole. In that vein there is Nabiaki Udom which calls for chicken or beef or anything else on hand thrown into one dish. Also the Chinese Congee would come to mind. You get the idea, put everything together in one pot and let it simmer until it’s rich and thick. Sancocho follows along the same lines with an assortment to vegetables which are added to a broth. The vegetables include root plants such as yuca, also known as cassava; yautia (ya-oo-teah), also called tanier or dasheen; and name (nyah-meh), a starchy root.

In Puerto Rican slang, sancochar means to boil ot stew. Thus the sancocho moniker since it is a platter containing pork, chicken and what have you. Sancocho takes time and patience to cook. But it’s worth the effort. The result is an ultimately superior meal in itself.

The recipe below is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books-Thunder’s Mouth Press). The root plants (or bianda) can be found in any Asian or Caribbean market. Cassava is a common product these days, no problem there. If you can’t find yautia, then substitute turnips, and for name, you can use yams.

SANCOCHO

1/2 cup olive oil
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crush
3 aji dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped
6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped
1 pound boneless chuck beef, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 pound pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 medium stewing chicken (about 2 1/2 pounds) washed and cut into serving pieces
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 ears fresh corn, shucked and quartered
1/2 pound yuca, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound yautia, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound name, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 green plantains, peeled and quartered
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 teaspoon salt

1. Heat oil in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add bell pepper, onion, garlic, aji dulce and cilantro. Saute over moderate heat until tender (4-5 minutes).
2. Add beef, pork, chicken, pepper, and oregano. Cook until meat is browned (8-10 minutes).
3. With a slotted spoon, remove chicken parts from pot and set aside.
4. Add corn, yuca, yautia, name, pumpkin and plantains to meat.
5. Add water to cover contents in pot, also add tomato sauce and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
6. Add chicken and continue to cook on low heat until meat is tender (about 2-2 1/2 hours).
7. Uncover pot and remove plantains. Place in a bowl and mash with a potato masher or big spoon. Let cool for a few minutes. Form into small balls with palms of hand. Return to kettle and boil for 1-2 minutes.
8. Serve with a loaf of crusty bread.
Yield: 12 servings.

Ipocras

December 26, 2011 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

During winter and, especially the holiday season, it is customary to drink wine infused with spices, such as mulled wine or “hot wine.” Spiced wine goes back to Roman times and, during the Middle Ages, the most popular drink of all was Ipocras (or Hipocras). This was a mixture of wine, cinnamon, sugar and ginger. In some recipes nutmeg was also added. Ipocras was taken at the end of a meal as a digestive. That means it was beneficial to the internal plumbing. It was a drink of the highest nobility and it was served to Queen Elizabeth I at her coronation.

It was also a drink that defined your station in life. According to a very old cookbook, Forme of Cury (1390), Ipocras made with sugar is destined for the lords. Ipocras made with honey is for the people. Sugar was a very expensive commodity in those days which only the higher classes could afford it. Luckily, today, those of us in the 99 percent can afford sugar as well as honey. So think of drinking Ipocras as a way to get back at the one percenters. Whichever way you look at it, it makes for a great beverage during these cold, chilly days. Hell, it’s a great drink for any season since it can be served at room temperature or slightly chilled.

The recipe given is by one Ruperto de Nola from his cookbook, Libro de Guisados (Book of Stews), the 1529 edition. Ruperto was cook to King Fernando of Naples.

The Middle Ages is not known for its gastronomy. But this drink seems to have gotten a lot of people through those Dark Ages.

IPOCRAS

1 1/2 cups red wine
1 1/2 cups dry wine
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon powdered cloves
1/8 teaspoon powdered ginger
2 tablespoons sugar (or more to taste)

1. Combined all of the ingredients in an enameled or heat-proof glass pot.
2. Bring slowly to a boil.
3. Once it starts boiling, remove from heat. Strain though cheesecloth or a cloth sieve set over a bowl. Serve at room temperature, or slightly cool, in mugs or (if you want to be fancy about it) wine glasses.
Yield: about 2-3 cups

Potato Pancakes

December 3, 2011 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

Potatoes have been with us since the beginning of time. But it was the Spanish conquistadors who brought it to Europe from Peru in the 16th century. Funny thing is that it wasn’t until the 1800s that potatoes gained currency throughout most of Europe and became the common staple we know today. It’s popularity is understandable. It is one of the most versatile of foods. Yet, over time it has become routine. We serve them fried, baked or mashed. Our Jewish brethren, during the Hanukkah festival. make them in the form of latkes, or potato pancakes. But, just like with rye bread, you don’t have to be Jewish to enjoy potato pancakes. They are easy to make; and are a well-deserved change from the usual fries.

One can have potato pancakes for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They make a great side dish with ham, steak or chicken. Or you can enjoy them simply with applesauce or sour cream.

Given below is a basic potato pancake recipe. I’ve learned through experience that it’s convenient to keep them warm in a low oven depending on time constraints. Believe me, once you’ve tasted these suckers, they’ll become a regular event.

BASIC POTATO PANCAKES

4 large russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium red onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup parsley or cilantro leaves
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil for frying (about 2 cups)

1. In a food processor, grate the potatoes, onion, garlic and parsley (or cilantro). Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, scrape into a large bowl. Drain off any excess liquid.
2. Mix in the eggs, salt and pepper. Add enough flour to the mixture to make it thick (about 3-4 tablespoons should do it).
3. Preheat oven to low (about 200 degrees F. or 95 degrees C.).
4. Heat a large heavy skillet or pan (I prefer cast iron) over medium heat. When hot, add oil to generously coat the bottom of the pan (about1/4-inch oil should be sufficient). Drop two or three 1/4-cup batter into hot oil, and flatten to make 1/2-inch thick circles. Fry, turning once, until golden brown (about 4-6 minutes per side). Drain on a plate lined with paper towels, and repeat until all the batter is used. Keep warm in the low oven until serving time.
Yield: 4 servings.

A Mess of Pottage

November 1, 2011 / Oswald Rivera / 1 Comment

The first biblical account of a dish of food affecting human behavior occurs in Genesis 24:29-34, the first book of Moses, where Esau sells his birthright to his younger brother, Jacob, for a “mess of pottage.” What we are talking about here is lentils, that Old World legume that is beloved in the Rivera family. Lentils are akin to liver. You either hate them or love them. And it’s interesting that this is the first food given a biblical reference.This is a big deal by all accounts. Esau was a “cunning hunter; a man of the field; and Jacob was a plain man dwelling in tents.” Except that Jacob was the cunning one since he got his older brother to renounce his heritage for a plate of red lentils. Jacob was the grandson of Abraham, the patriarch of three of the world’s greatest religions. And it was Jacob who gave his people, the Israelites, a national conscience. It could have been Esau—had it not been for those pesky lentils, and the fact that he was starving. So one shrewd brother flimflams the other, and history is changed.

And what was so great about this freakin’ recipe? Actually, not much. No ingredient list is given in the Bible. Esau had come in from the fields and he was famished, simple as that. The story fascinates me and I’ve tried to emulate the recipe as Jacob, or his wife, would have prepared it. Onions, garlic and tomatoes were a staple in Ur, the important city in Mesopotamia (read modern day Iraq) during the fourth and third millenia B.C.E. Genesis 11:31 says that Abraham, originally Abram, migrated from “Ur of the Chaldeans” to the land of Canaan. In Ur they also had spices such as salt and pepper. I’m sure all these provisions were taken on the trek to the land God promised to the Israelites.

The recipe given is quite simple, just enhanced by natural ingredients. It comes from my second cookbook, The Pharaoh’s Feast (which was also published in England under the title Feasting with the Ancestors).

When I make lentils, I use it in conjunction with rice. Gives the old rice and beans combo a new twist. Lentils, like other dried beans, are quick and easy to prepare. They may be sold hold or split into halves, and are good for you, providing a healthy source of cholesterol-lowering fiber. Which means they are good in preventing heart disease. They are also contain B-vitamins and protein, and virtually no fat. A whole cup of cooked lentils provides just 230 calories. Can’t go wrong with these suckers.

A MESS OF POTTAGE

1 cup dried lentils
4 cups water
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced from the stem down into 1/2-inch thick moons
2 clove garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and ground pepper to taste
2 ripe tomatoes, sliced into half-moons

1. Wash lentils under cold running water.
2. In a large pot or casserole (a Dutch oven is good for this), cover the lentils with water. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium skillet and add the onions and garlic. Saute for about 3 minutes or until the onions brown at the edges.
4. Add the onions and garlic to the lentils, plus the salt and pepper. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 45 minutes until the lentils are tender adding, more water if the mixture becomes too thick.
5. Serve garnished with tomatoes.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Baked Apples

October 10, 2011 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Vermont in the fall is glorious. We spend our days here in the summer and, sometimes, we come back in the fall to see the foliage with all its vivrant colors. The other thing we note is that there are apples everywhere: apples falling from tress on the roads, in back yards, on dirt paths, you name it. Here in the property where we’re at we also have apple trees. Thus, since the summer, I’ve gotten into the habit of eating apples for snacks and as dessert.

According to the medical journals, apples are good for you. They are high in antioxidants, that substance that is good for the heart. Apples enhance lung function, help build strong bones and thus prevent osteoporosis, and provide dietary fiber (which is great for those who want to be regular, if you know what I mean). And all that without any fat or sodium.

In Vermont the locals love to make apple pies and apple cider. Those are good, but my favorite apple recipe is simple baked apples. It’s easy, and can be done with any apple variety. In our area, the usual varieties are crab apples and, what I think are red delicious. They are sweet, juicy and crisp. The recipe given is the simplest there is. Just flavor with some syrup (maple or any other syrup such as hazelnut), or plain honey, and bake. The easiest fat-free dessert.

BAKED APPLES

4 apples (any combination or whatever is available), cored, halved, and sliced thinly
5 tablespoons maple syrup or honey
Ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 375 degree.
2. Place apples in a baking dish (I prefer cast-iron).
3. Drizzle syrup or honey on apples; and dust lightly with cinnamon.
4. Bake 30 minutes or until fork tender.
Yield: 4 servings or more.

Rum Punch

September 24, 2011 / Oswald Rivera / 0 Comments

Prior to the American revolution, the drink of choice in the colonies was rum. It fueled the American heart. It’s estimated that the colonists downed 3 3/4 gallons per head per year, and this includes women and children. At his inaugural in 1789, George Washington, the first President of the United States, had a barrel of Barbados rum served at the function. In colonial homes, no social gathering would be complete without a bowl of rum punch.

Today we think of rum mainly as a mixed drink such as in mojitos, daiquiris, or that rite of passage for almost every young person in America, rum and coca-cola. But rum punch at your next party or get-together is not such a bad idea. You can make it as powerful or as weak as desired, and, believe me, it livens up any gathering. Below is given a rum punch recipe from the 18th century. And, yes, it’s as delicious now as it was then. If you want to imitate those crazy Republican tea party folks, put on a tri-corner colonial hat, ruffled shirt and knee britches, and your set to party the old-fashioned way. Oh,yes, the recipe is from my second cookbook, The Pharaoh’s Feast, also published in the United Kingdom under the title, Feasting with the Ancestors.

RUM PUNCH

1 cup pure maple syrup
2 cups lemon or lime juice
1 quart water (you can use sparkling water to give it fizz)
1 bottle (750 ml.) dark rum (I prefer Anejo which is aged over 8 years, but any good dark rum will do)
Ground nutmeg

1.In a punch bowl, mix the maple syrup with the lemon or lime juice. Add water and stir.
2. Add the rum and serve over ice in the punch bowl, with nutmeg sprinkled on top.
Yield: about 20 servings.