Achiote is one of the most popular condiments in Puerto Rican Cuisine. It is simply annatto seeds cooked in olive oil. It’s most common use used is as a coloring, particularly in rice, where the achiote gives the grains that bright orange color so definitive to us rice lovers. It’s other most typical variation is in Bacalao con Achiote, or shredded codfish cooked with the achiote.

Annatto is the pulp of the tropical tree Bixa orellana.  Annatto dye is sued in coloring some cheeses. In the old days, it was used by Caribbean and South American Indians for body paint.

I’ve discovered that achiote can be used in making other dishes, such as the recipe given today, Pollo con Achiote or, simply, Achiote Chicken. If you have achiote already on hand, then the recipe is a snap. If not, a quick recipe for making achiote is given. What’s marvelous about this recipe is that it can be prepared baked, steam, or grilled (this is the season for it). Whichever method is used, the result is a delicious and memorable rendition.

POLLO CAN ACHIOTE
(Achiote Chicken)

Ingredients:

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, about 1½ pounds
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh crushed oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon annatto seeds
½ cup olive oil

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Rinse chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
3.  In a bowl, place chicken. Add olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, oregano, and cumin. Mix to combine. Set chicken aside while preparing achiote.
4.  In a small skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat olive oil. When oil is very hot, add annatto seeds. Turn heat to low and cook the seeds, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. If the flame is kept on high, the seeds may crack and splatter. During cooking, the oil will turn a bright orange-red color. The longer the seeds steep in oil, the deeper the hue.
5.  Remove from heat and let cool. Using a small strainer, pour into a glass jar or container. Cover and refrigerate. It will last in the fridge indefinitely. Or you can freeze it. Again, the shelf time is indefinite. But once it’s thawed, it cannot be re-frozen. Don’t ask me why.
6.  Add 2-3 tablespoons to the chicken (the more you add the greater the color). Place chicken in a baking pan (I prefer cast-iron), and bake 20-30 minutes until tender and chicken has bright orange-red tinge.
   Yield: 4 servings.Steaming: Place chicken in a pot or pan. Add water up to 2 inches in pan. Bring to a boil.  Place  chicken in pan, lower heat and steam 10 minutes or until chicken is tender. A bamboo steamer can also be used, if you have one.Grilling: Prepare grill to medium heat; and grill chicken until brown, about 2 minutes per side. Cover grill, and continue to cook chicken until cooked through, turning and moving to coolest part of grill if necessary to prevent burning, about 25 minutes.

This recipe came about because my wife presented me with a bottle of Minervois, a famed wine from the Languedoc-Rousillon wine region in France. The bottle is a blend of 60% Syrah grape and 40% Grenache. This particular wine is delightfully aromatic with a violet-tinged nose of black fruit and spice; and rich with prune and cinnamon flavors. And it’s the perfect wine to serve with, among other dishes, chicken with olives. Thus in this case the dish was made to match the wine.

My version of chicken with olives is normally made Puerto Rican style with the requisite spices: pepper, oregano, garlic, tomato sauce, and sofrito. Then I discovered there’s a Mexican style of chicken with olives. In this version they add chili powder, cumin, and dry sherry. This combination intrigued me: and thus the recipe given below. As with its Puerto Rican counterpart, the recipe is perfect with steamed rice. But you can substitute pasta or a grain such as couscous or quinoa. Whatever suitable side dish you use, the dish is heavenly.

CHICKEN WITH OLIVES MEXICAN-STYLE

1 3-3 ½ pound chicken, cut into serving pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely sliced into rings
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
¼ cup dry sherry
½ teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon oregano, crushed
2 tablespoons flour
2 ½ cups chopped fresh tomatoes or one 17-ounce can Italian peeled tomatoes
20 pitted green Spanish olives

1. Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Heat olive oil in a large, heavy skillet and, when it is hot but not smoking, add the chicken pieces skin side down. Cook until golden brown on one side and turn the pieces, Cook until golden on the other side. Transfer to large plate or platter and set aside.
3. To the fat in the skillet, add the onion and cook, stirring until wilted. Stir in the garlic. Add half of the sherry and let it cook until most of the liquid evaporates. Sprinkle with chili powder, cumin, oregano and flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are well blended.
4. Add the tomatoes and stir until thickened. Cook stirring about 10 minutes. Add chicken to skillet and mix, spooning sauce over chicken. Cover tightly and cook over low to moderate heat about 30 minutes or until chicken is tender. Add the olives, stir in the remaining sherry, bring to a boil and serve.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

What to do with turkey breasts, specifically skinless turkey breasts? The same thing can be said of chicken breasts. We all know by now that turkey can be a substitute for chicken, especially when one gets tired of chicken all the time. But turkey can add its own dimension and flavor, as with this old-fashioned entrée of turkey cooked with lemon and capers in a yogurt-sour cream sauce.  Nothing fancy. Just good ingredients that can be found in most refrigerators. Served with potatoes, rice, or even pasta, it’s a tasty and filling meal.

1 pound boneless, skinless turkey breast
1/2 cup flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons plain yogurt
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon capers

1. Rinse turkey breasts under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Cut into strips about 1/4-inch thick.
2. Place flour in a plate, and season with salt, pepper. garlic powder and oregano. Dredge the turkey strips in flour.
3. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet or pan until very hot. Add turkey and saute on both sides until browned.
4.  Reduce heat to medium, add wine, yogurt, sour cream, lemon juice and capers. Stir to mix, cooking the turkey strips about 2 minutes more.
   Yield: 4 servings

I’m into Middle eastern Cuisine. The flavors, the ingredients all fascinate me. In some cases it’s as far from Caribbean cooking as one can find. So I’m always on the lookout for something unique within a Middle eastern venue. And that explains the recipe given today. It’s called “Circassian Chicken.” A little history here. The Circasssians are an ethnic group that hails from the Northwest Caucasus. They were incorporated into the Czarist Russian Empire during the 19th century. But most Circassians are Sunni Muslims, and their cooking, I’m told, is very popular throughout the Middle East. They have a very old tradition in which nuts, ground fine, are used to enrich and thicken a sauce that is very prevalent in their cooking, as you will note with this dish.

Ground nuts in cooking? you say. Haven’t done that lately. Well, just try the dish. You’ll be surprised how good it is. Impress your crowd tonight. Tell ’em they’ll be dining on a dish worthy of a Sultan or Caliph.

CIRCASSIAN CHICKEN

1 large roasting chicken, about 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
2 large onions, peeled and quartered
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 cup shelled nuts (almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, or a mixture)
1 cup fine bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoons paprika
Cooked rice (enough for 4 servings)

1. Wash chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place in a large pot or pan, cover with water, add the onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for about an hour or until the chicken is  tender.
3. Drain the chicken, but reserve the stock, keeping the chicken warm.
4. Grind the nuts in a food processor or blender. Place 2 cups reserved chicken stock into a clean pan. Stir in the nuts and bread crumbs. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring, until the mixture has thickened. Add more stock if it becomes too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. In a cup or saucer,  mix the paprika with the oil until it becomes bright red. Add this to the nut/bread mixture and stir to combine.
6. Arrange the rice on a serving platter, top with the chicken and pour the nut sauce over both the chicken and rice.
    Yield: 4 or more servings.

This recipe is a contribution from our beloved Uncle Phillip. In our family, Uncle Phillip was the black sheep, and he was bigger than life. A von vivant, ladies’ man, and raconteur extraordinaire. And also a fabulous cook. Uncle Phillip was a merchant seaman, and he was a cook aboard ship. That’s how he learned about cuisine. He was always on the lookout for unique recipes. Yet, like Puerto Ricans of the old school, he had this thing about Spain. To the Boricuas of his and my parents generation, Spain was the “Mother Country.” Figures since Spain owned Puerto Rico for hundreds of years before the coming of the Americans in 1898. So anything having to do with Spain, was sacrosanct, especially its cuisine. For instance, to this day, the measurement of any restaurant in Puerto Rico is not its paella or pasteles but caldo gallego, a smooth, vigorous soup.

Galicia is a maritime province in Northern Spain, thus the Gallego appellation, as in the chicken dish given below. We assumed that’s where Uncle Phillip picked up the recipe, and it has remained a favorite in our family for ages. What’s interesting about this recipe is that originally it was prepared with bone-in chicken breasts. After the chicken breasts were roasted, the meat was removed from the bone. That’s how Uncle Phillip did it. I’ve discovered that whole, boneless chicken breasts work just as well, are easier to prepare, and are just as tasty.

Here it is. For dinner tonight take a trip to the Iberian peninsula. In our family, the dish was traditionally served over steamed rice. But it can also complement any other grain, potatoes, or even pasta. The dish calls for paprika. I prefer Hungarian paprika which is medium-hot. Uncle Phillip preferred the milder Spanish paprika. Use whatever suits you best. With a good Rioja wine, the dish is heaven.

  POLLO AL GALLEGO
 (Galician Style Chicken)

3 pounds whole chicken breasts
2 teaspoons paprika
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 bay leaf
Pinch of cayenne pepper (about 1/8 teaspoon)
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chicken broth or bouillon
8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Wash chicken breasts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each breast in half lengthwise.
3. Sprinkle chicken with 1/2 teaspoon paprika. Place in a shallow roasting pan and bake approximately 25 minutes or until golden brown.
4. Meanwhile, in a small pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Add garlic and bay leaf. Sauté until garlic turns brown (do not burn). Add remaining paprika, cayenne pepper, flour and salt. Mix well and slowly add chicken bouillon or broth. Bring to a boil, gently stirring to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly. When the sauce is done, remove bay leaf.
5. Arrange breasts on a serving platter and pour sauce over chicken. Garnish with olives, either whole or sliced in half, and serve.
    Yield: 4 or more servings.

I love fried chicken, always have. But there’s always the persistent health concern. The more thorough among us worry about the fat content, even when not using hydrogenated oil. Problem is, I was brought up on chicken cooked in fat, either lard or left-over grease my mother would keep in a jar in the fridge. I know, you’re saying: “Yuk—what would that do to you arteries, not to mention your waistline?” Guess what, it was the best fried chicken I ever tasted. And I yearn for those days. Now, when I fry chicken I use olive oil—but that’s an expensive proposition if one is going to use good quality olive oil every time. And I still hanker for the Crisco.

I’ve discovered another way to cook chicken that is just as tasty and, yes, healthy. That’s oven-fried chicken. What I like about oven-fried chicken is that it comes out just as crispy, tasty and as juicy as my mother’s hallowed larded chicken. It’s become my favorite method of making the legendary dish. In honor of full disclosure, this recipe comes from an old, tattered cookbook of mine from the Rival Home Economics Department, Rival Manufacturing Company, Kansas City, Missouri. I’ve modified the recipe in terms of the seasoning used. Now, I don’t know if the Rival Company is still around, but the recipe lives on in all its glory. Tasty, fried chicken without the fat content. What more could you want?

OVEN-FRIEND CHICKEN

1 broiler/fryer chicken, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds, cut up
2 1/2 cups bread crumbs or crushed potato chips
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon paprika
3/4 cup evaporated milk

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels.
3. Combine bread crumbs or crushed potato chips with the seasonings.
4. Dip chicken pieces in evaporated milk. Roll in seasoning mixture.
3. Place in a baking pan and bake 45 to 60 minutes or until chicken is tender.
   Yield: 4 servings.

 

I like cooking with honey. And I have a friend who has access to a genuine beehive. And once in a while he gives me a batch of pure American honey fresh from the hive. There is nothing comparable for creating a marvelous recipe. One of my favorite is honey roasted chicken. It’s one meal I never tired of. Normally I serve the dish over yellow rice. But this time around I served it with farfalle (bow tie noodles).

HONEY ROASTED CHICKEN

1 3 to 3 1/2 pounds fryer roaster, with giblets 
8 whole black peppercorns
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon fresh chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 lemon, cut into thin rings
1/2 cup honey

1. Preheat oven to 360 degrees F.
2. Wash chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl.
3. Put peppercorns, salt and oregano in a mortar and pound until crushed.
4. Sprinkle the chicken with the olive oil. Rub the chicken, inside and out, with the seasoning. Stuff the cavity with the lemon and garlic cloves. With kitchen string, tie together the lower parts of the drumsticks to enclose the cavity.5. Place chicken, breast side down, in a roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes.
6. Brush the chicken all over with the honey, scatter the neck, gizzard and liver around it; and roast, breast side up, till golden brown and crisp, about 45 minutes (an instant read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thighs should read 165 degrees).
    Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Kung Pao chicken is one of those dishes that has filtered into western cuisine during the last generation or so. When I was a kid and the family would trudge down to the Old Wah Kee restaurant in Chinatown, we would have all the traditional Chinese-American dishes (fried rice, chow mein, egg-drop soup, etc.) We never had Kung Pao chicken. That started popping up in later years, and it caught on because it was spicier that traditional Chinese fare. Kung Pao chicken (or Gong Bao, Kung Po) comes from Sichuan cooking that originated in Sichuan Province in southwest China. Sichuan cooking is noted for its use of Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese coriander and used in Tibetan, Nepelese and Indian cuisine as well. The westernize version of the dish (which includes the recipe given) does not use Sichuan peppercorn since it was illegal to import then into the U.S. from 1968 to 2005. The ban solidified the western version and chili peppers are used instead. Also, in my recipe, I have substituted the sugar used in most versions with honey. My contribution to this venerable dish.

During the infamous Cultural Revolution in China (1966-1976), the dish was renamed “Fast-fried chicken cubes” or “Chicken cubes with seared chilies.” Why? The dish was supposedly named after a Quin Dynasty official, Ding Baozhen, and association with the Quin (1644-1912) was considered subversive or politically incorrect. Again, why? Well, psychotic mass murderer Mao Zedong decided to preserve “true Communist ideology” by purging all “bourgeois” elements and traditional “counter-revolutionary” thought from Chinese society. It set back China socially and economically for decades.  

Ding Baozhen is an interesting character. Not only was he an official of the Quin government; but he had very bad teeth and he couldn’t chew meat that was tough or thick. So his personal chef prepared for him a meal consisting of finely chopped stir-fried chicken with lost of peppercorn in it. And the dish was born.  Let me add that in my version, I serve it over whole wheat pasta rather than the traditional Chinese noodles. It doesn’t hurt to innovate.

KUNG PAO CHICKEN

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, washed and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 large egg whites
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons cornstarch
5 tablespoons peanut oil
3 dried red chilies (or more if you want it spicier)
1 7.25 ounce bottle or can unsalted peanuts or mixed nuts
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh scallions
2  tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
1/3 cup chicken broth (canned is fine)
1/4 cup rice wine or dry sherry
4 tablesppons soy sauce
3 teaspoons honey
2 tablespoons Chinese black rice vinegar (available in most Asian stores)

1. In a medium bowl, mix chicken breasts, egg whites, salt, 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil, and 2 tablespoons of the cornstarch. Set aside.
2. In a small bowl, mix reaming tablespoon corn starch with 1/3 cup water. Set aside
3. Place a large pot or wok over high heat until hot, and add peanut oil. When oil is very hot, add chicken pieces and cook for 3 minutes. Add chilies and stir-fry until slightly blackened. Add peanuts, garlic, scallions and ginger, stirring until lightly browned.
4. Add chicken broth, rice wine, soy sauce, honey, vinegar and remaining tablespoon sesame oil. Mix well to combine, and stir in cornstarch mix. Stir-fry for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and let the mixture sit (uncovered) for about 2 minutes more. Mix again, and serve.
    Yield: 4 or more servings.