Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Category: poultry (page 6 of 7)

Pollo con Limón – Lemon Chicken

This is a recipe that we in the Rivera clan discovered later on. The Nuyorican way of cooking chicken is by baking, roasting, frying, and stewing. But with lemons? Most likely it was our foolish, wonderful, wise Uncle Phillip, the black sheep of the family who, introduced us to this method of cooking chicken. He was a merchant seaman, and a world traveler. So, somewhere along the he discovered this gem. It is not native to the Puerto Rican repertoire. That being, said, it’s an easy, quick and delicious way to prepare chicken breasts. Served with steamed vegetables or rice, it can’t be beat.

Pollo con Limón
(Lemon Chicken)

2 lemons
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon dried or fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon marjoram
2 cups chicken broth

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Wash lemons and slice into thin rounds.
3. Wash chicken breasts and pat dry with paper towels.
4. Place half the lemon slices on the bottom of a baking dish or pan.
5. Arrange chicken in baking dish and top with lemons.
6. Sprinkle with pepper, oregano, garlic powder, and marjoram.
7. Pour broth over chicken, and top with remaining lemons.
8. Bake for 40 minutes or until tender.
    Yield: 4 servings.
    

Nuyorican Chicken Wings

What better way to celebrate the dawning of a new year than by going back to homey comfort food? By that, I mean dishes that remain all-time favorites. Among these I include chicken wings. I know, we have all kinds of variations: Buffalo chicken wings, breaded chicken wings, broiled chicken wings . . . and the list goes on. We Nuyoricans have our own way of cooking. At least we do in the Rivera family; and it goes back to using tried and true methods and ingredients. You could say it’s baked chicken wings—but with that Puerto Rican élan (I know, it’s one of those fancy-dan words I discovered during my travels in Europe).

In our recipe, it calls for using a mortar to crush the seasoning ingredients. A mortar and pestle (at one time considered exotic) is a utensil that now can be found in most food outlets. If not, any Latino/Hispanic or Asian market will carry the item. Other than that, the recipe is no-nonsense, easy to prepare and delicious. Normally we serve it with yellow rice and/or tostones (fried green plantains—see entry of 9/9/10 for a quick recipe). If preferred, you can serve it with chicken gravy and mashed potatoes. Chicken wings, in whatever manner, is a dish that will never go out of style.

NUYORICAN CHICKEN WINGS

10 chicken wings
3 cloves garlic, peeled
12 whole peppercorns
Salt to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 cup olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Rinse chicken wings under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels, place in a bowl, and set aside.
3. Put the garlic, peppercorns, salt and oregano into a mortar and pound until crushed. Add this mix to the chicken and toss to combine thoroughly with the chicken wings. If desired, you can use another variation—which is to place chicken wings with seasoning in a large zip-lock bag and shake to combine. Use whatever method seems best.
4. Place chicken wings in a shallow roasting pan (I prefer cast iron) and bake for 1 hour or until crisp and cooked through.
    Yield: 2-3 servings. If you want more, you can double the recipe for 4+ servings.

Super Grains: Amaranth with Roast Chicken (Pollo Al Horno)

Today we discuss the second of our super grains. The first was Pearl Barley (see post of  09/20/14). This one is on amaranth (or amaranthus), an ancient grain that was cultivated in Mexico, Guatemala and Peru. Nowadays it’s cultivated as a leaf vegetable in Indonesia, Malaysia, The Philippines, India and East Africa. But outside of such tropical countries it was virtually unknown until recently. At one time it was the main grain consumed by the Aztecs prior to the Spanish conquest. After that conquest, the cultivation of the amaranth seed was outlawed. And it wasn’t until the 1970s that it was revived in Mexico as a popular snack mixed with chocolate or puffed rice.

First of all, apart from being tasty, amaranth is good for you. It’s a good source of protein, and is rich in amino acids, vitamin A,C, thiamine, calcium and iron. It makes a great side dish or even a main course. In Greece it is served as a popular dish called vlita (or vleeta), where it’s mixed with olive oil and lemon juice and eaten as a salad. Amaranth is very easy to cook. And in this recipe I’ve combine it with a Puerto Rican favorite, Pollo Al Horno (Roast Chicken). Most recipes for amaranth call for measurements of 1 cup of the grain to 1 1/2 to 3 cups water or chicken broth. For those who want a more porridge-like consistency, they may use more water. I like amaranth tender but drier, so my measurement is 1 1/2 cup amaranth to 3 cups water. Again, it’s an individual choice. Either way, the recipe is great. You won’t be disappointed.

                                              AMARANTH WITH ROAST CHICKEN
                                                             (POLLO AL HORNO)

1 3 to 3 1/4 pounds roasting chicken, cut into generous bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3 cups chicken brioth or water
1 cupo amarnath

1. Wash chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl.
2. In a small bowl or cup, mix olive oil, salt, pepper, oregano, tarragon  and crushed garlic. Pour over chicken, rubbing seasoning thoroughly into the skin. Cover bowl and let stand 15 minutes or, better still, overnight. You can also place the chicken in a large zip-lock bag and marinate that way.
3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Remove chicken from marinade and place in a shallow roasting pan. Turn once during roasting, and bake until golden brown and juices are no longer pink, about 30 minutes. 
4. While chicken is cooking, bring water to a rolling boil in a heavy saucepan or pot. Add amaranth, cover, lower heat, and simmer until grain is tender and all the water has been absorbed, 20-25 minutes. You can serve the chicken over the amaranth or on the side
    Yield: 4 servings.

Persian Grilled Chicken

One of my favorite cuisine is Middle Eastern. And I’m told this is the favorite way of preparing chicken in Iraq; and it harks back to the Persian Empire. The recipe can be done over hot coals on an outdoor grill or in an oven broiler. I like this recipe because its very similar our method of broiling chicken in Puerto Rican or Nuyorican neighborhoods. The only difference being that we add oregano to the marinade. And Iraquis marinate the chicken overnight, just like we do. Farther afield, in Turkey, they like to flavor the chicken with a little cumin instead of the garlic and lemon in the marinade.

PERSIAN GRILLED CHICKEN

1 3-pound broiler fryer chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces
Juice of 1 lemon
1 small onion, chopped and crushed to extract juices
1-3 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to tatse

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in a bowl or large zip-lock bag. Add the remaining ingredients. If using a bowl, rub the seasoning thoroughly into the chicken parts. If using a zip-lock bag, make sure the chicken parts are thoroughly coated with the marinade. Refrigerate overnight.
3. If using a grill: place the chicken pieces on an oiled grill (preferably over a charcoal fire) that is very hot and glowing, and no longer smoking. Grill the pieces until golden brown but still pale and tender inside, basting with marinade and turning once.
4. If using oven broiler: broil in a pan (I prefer cast-iron), rack or greased aluminum foil 7 inches from heat source for 30 minutes. Turn once during broiling and baste frequently with the marinade.
    Yield: 4 servings.

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Chicken and Dumplings – PR Style

Chicken and dumplings is one of the ultimate comfort foods. It’s great any time of the season, and it warms the heart and stomach. In Puerto Rican cuisine we have domplines (dumplings—pronounced dom-plee-ness) and pollo frito (fried chicken), and it’s a great combination. In our tribe, the person who made the best dumplings was my grandmother, Adelaida, known to all as Doña Lala. She would make domplines for breakfast with ham and eggs, or for dinner with the fried chicken. She had it down to a science and could whip up a batch of dumplings in minutes. The domplines recipe given below is her magic creation. The fried chicken recipe is my mom’s—and she cooked it too ways. The first variation was simply marinated chicken pieces which are floured and then deep-fried. That’s the second recipe noted. She also had another variation in which the chicken is cooked in  its own marinade combined with chicken bouillon or broth, lending a more heady flavor. It you want that recipe, then get my cookbook Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books – Running Press) where both versions are highlighted along with a host of other Nuyorican wonders. 

         DOMPLINES
(Puerto Rican Dumplings)

4 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons shortening
1 cup lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Combine flour, baking powder and shortening in a glass bowl.
2. Add salt to water and add to flour, a bit at a time, while mixing with a wooden spoon until it forms a doughy consistency.
3. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead continuously with hands until soft.
4. Form kneaded dough into a horseshoe shape and set aside.
5. Fill a cast-iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat until oil is very hot. Break off a small piece of dough and shape into a round patty. Dip patty into skillet and stir-fry until golden (about 5 minutes). Repeat until dough is all gone. Remove and drain on adsorbent paper towels.
    Yield: About 20 dumplings.
Note: If a little color is desired, 4 or 5 tablespoons of achiote (annatto seeds cooked in olive oil—again, recipe in cookbook) can be added to the flour during the first step. This will reder truly golden-yellow dumplings.

POLLO FRITO
(Fried Chicken)

1 fryer chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, cut into generous bite-sized pieces
2 cloves garlic, crushed or 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon onion powder (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
Vegetable oil for frying
1 cup flour

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold, running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in a bowl and rub with crushed garlic. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano and onion powder. Rub seasoning well into chicken pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and vinegar. Mix to combine. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes. If you really want strong flavors, refrigerate overnight.

3. Heat a generous amount of oil (1″ to 1 1/2″ deep) to medium temperature (about 340°) in a heavy bottomed pot, large skillet or deep fryer.
4. Remove chicken from marinade and dust lightly with flour. Use your hands to toss and coat each piece thorougly.
5. Add chicken pieces to hot oil, a few at a time and deep-fry until golden brown and crisp (3 to 5 minutes),  turning the individual pieces as they cook. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. Serve piping hot with the domplines.
    Yield: 4 servings.
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Limonia

I came across this recipe while I was researching my second cookbook, The Pharaoh’s Feast, also published in the United Kingdom as Feasting with the Ancestors (Sutton Publishing). In this tome I traced the history of cooking from prehistoric times to the present. This particular recipe comes from a fourteenth century anonymous manuscript containing two different recipe sections, known respectively as Book A and Book B. The actual book title was Anonymous Southerner (Anonimo Meridionale), because the author used southern Italian expressions, especially from Naples. Limonia is from Book A, which contains 164 recipes.

Limonia was a popular dish in medieval and Renaissance Italy. Different recipe collections term it lumonia, limonia, or limonea. It may have made its way to Europe via the Arab world. Arab texts as far back as the thirteenth century have recipes for laymuwiya, which are very similar to the one given here. According to the Anonymous Southerner, to make Limonia, all one has to do is brown chicken lard together with chopped onions and almonds. Stir in more pork lard and spices, and cook. Add lemon juice when it’s done, and serve. This sounds very much like modern day chicken piccata, although I’ve never heard of almonds being added to it. In the original recipe, lard would give it the flavor. These days, olive oil is a healthier alternative. I like this dish served over steamed white or brown rice.

LIMONIA

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 pounds boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes
Juice of one small lemon
1/4 cup blanched almonds*
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken cubes and cook until lightly browned. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for a minute or two.
2. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the lemon juice and almonds. Stir well to dissolve brown particles in the bottom of the pan. Add butter, blending it well into the sauce.
3. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
    Yield: 4 servings.

    *To blanch almonds, simply drop the shelled almonds (with their brown skin) into boiling water to cover. Boil exactly one minute. Drain. Press the almonds between your fingers until the almonds slip out of their skins, and pat dry.

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Roasted Turkey Breast

In the Rivera family, roasted turkey breast was one of those special occasion dishes. Mainly we had a whole turkey during the Thanksgiving holiday. Turkey breast was that optional treat instead of the Sunday beef or pork roast. We liked it because our family rendition came out moist and juicy; and the whole thing could be done in about an hour or so depending on the size. Figure it this way: a small turkey breast weighing 3 to 4 pounds requires, on average, 1 to 1 1/2 hours cooking time. A larger breast weighing 6 to 7 pounds cooks in 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. In all cases, after roasting, always allow the breast to sit 15 to 20 minutes so that the juices have time to be absorbed throughout the meat. So, surprise the family or your significant other for that special dinner. You’ll get deserved applause.

ROASTED BONELESS TURKEY BREAST

1 4-5 pound turkey breast, skin on
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 lemon
3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 cup red wine or brandy
2-3 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Rinse the turkey breast under cold running water. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place the turkey breast on a plate and spear all over with a fork. Drizzle with the olive oil and rub thoroughly with the salt, pepper, oregano and garlic powder.  Pat the seasonings well into the skin. Place the breast in a plastic zip-lock bag; and skirt with the juice from the lemon. Shake the bag until the breast is thoroughly coated with the marinade.
3. Place the turkey breast in the refrigerator and let it marinate overnight.
4. Next day, preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Place the breast on a roasting pan (I prefer cast-iron). Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
5. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the breast, and remove the breast from the oven when the temperature reaches 155 degrees. Cover the breast with aluminum foil and allow to rest for 10 minutes. During this time the internal temperature of the meat will continue to rise approximately 5 to 6 degrees higher. Increasing the temperature over 170 degrees will probably result in a dry and tough turkey breast—and you don’t want that.
6. While the turkey breast is resting, you can make the gravy: put the roasting pan over one of the range burners on medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan juices, stirring for a few minutes. Add the red wine or brandy, and scrape the pan to lift bits that are stuck to the bottom. Cook for a minute or so to burn off the alcohol content. Pour in the chicken broth, stirring constantly. Bring to a simmer, add the butter and stir until thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Slice the turkey breast on the diagonal and serve with the gravy.
    Yield: 6-8 servings.

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Pollo Frito – Puerto Rican Fried Chicken

Everyone loves fried chicken (at least almost everyone). It’s one of the few dishes that if you have kids in the house, won’t create any problems in terms of picky eaters. We Puerto Ricans have our own unique take on fried chicken. Our version is fairly simple, but it’s more seasoned compared to other recipes. We also have plain fried chicken where you can skip the flour and cook the chicken in butter or olive oil instead of vegetable oil. The recipe given here is the classic floured chicken which is ubiquitous (I love those $20 words) in the fried chicken universe. Paired with mashed potatoes, some green veggies, and a good bottle of wine, you can’t go wrong.

Let me get in a plug here. This recipe is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books – Running Press). Actually, in that book I give two versions of  Puerto Rican fried chicken: one is with plain flour (as in the recipe below) and the second version is cooking the chicken in its marinade combined with bouillon or broth, lending to a more heady flavor. Want that recipe—buy the book.

POLLO FRITO
(Fried Chicken)

1 fryer chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, cut into generous bite-sized pieces
2 cloves garlic, crushed or 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon onion powder (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
Vegetable oil for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour

1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Place chicken in a bowl and rub with crushed garlic. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano and onion powder. Rub seasoning well into chicken pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and vinegar. Mix to combine. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes. It you really want strong flavors, refrigerate overnight.
3. Heat a generous amount of oil (1-inch to 1 1/2-inch deep) to medium temperature (about 340 degrees F.) in a heavy-bottomed pot, large skillet or deep fryer.
4. Remove chicken from marinade and dust lightly with flour. Use your hands to toss and coat each piece thoroughly.
5. Add chicken pieces to hot oil, a few at a time and deep-fry until golden brown and crisp (3 to 5 minutes). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. Serve piping hot.
    Yield: 4 servings.

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Kreplach: Jewish Wontons


Kreplach (or kreplakh) are meat-filled dumplings often served in a clear soup. They are similar to tortellini or Chinese wontons. That’s why they are also referred to as “Jewish wontons.” They are a traditional pre-fast meal before Yom Kipper, or the Day of Atonement. They are also eaten on Simchat Torah and Purim. Not being very religious, I like to eat them all year round. According to the experts, kreplach may have evolved among Ashkenazi (Eastern European) Jews in Germany during the 14th century, who got the idea about stuffing dumplings from Jews in Venice, who got the idea from stuffed pasta.

Ground meat can used as the filling for kreplach; but in my circle most of my Jewish friends use ground chicken. I have no problems with whatever meat filling may be used. However, in my experience, the key to great tasting kreplach is an onion cooked with the meat, using not oil but schmaltz, rendered chicken fat.  I know, you’re rolling your eyes and saying “Chicken Fat!”  But, yep, there’s no way getting around it. You can buy schmaltz in any supermarket these days; or you can make your own. I know it’s time consuming, but I prefer to make my own. You can use the same chicken for the meat filling as well as making the schmaltz.

Kreplach, like all good things (think of Puerto Rican pasteles), takes time and patience. Yet the rewards are infinite when you eat the suckers. 

KREPLACH

Filling:

3 tablespoons schmaltz (see recipe)
1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
3/4 pound ground chicken, cooked
1 egg
Salt and black ground pepper to taste

Dough:

3 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons water
2 cups all-purpose flour

Schmaltz:

Take 1 chicken (4-5 pounds), and cut away fatty skin and other fat particles into small pieces. Place pieces in a pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook until water evaporates. Add 1 medium diced onion, and cook on low heat until onions are brown. The fat, or schmaltz, is now done. Let cool and remove onion pieces. Store schmaltz in covered jars. The jars can be frozen or kept in the refrigerator.
       Note: You can cook the leftover chicken by boiling or broiling, and use it for the rest of the recipe.

1. In a medium fry-pan or skillet, heat the schmaltz and saute the onion with the ground chicken. Pour off excess fat and let cool slightly. Mix in the egg and salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. For the dough: In a large bowl, beat together the eggs, salt and pepper. Add  water and gradually beat in enough flour to form a stiff dough. Using your hands, knead well and quickly. Then divide dough into 2 balls; and cover each ball with a moist towel.
3. Using a rolling pin, roll out one ball of dough very thin, and cut into 6 strips, each about 1 1/2 inches wide. Now cut the pieces into 1 1/2 inches square.
4. Place about 1/2 teaspoon of meat mixture in center of each dough square. Dampen edges and fold over to form a triangle. Press the edges together firmly, using additional flour if necessary to make them stick. Repeat procedure with the second ball of dough.
5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, drop kreplach into boiling water and simmer on low heat for about 15 minutes. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon. You can also drop kreplach into hot soup and cook them that way. Or you can brown them in the oven or a skillet, and serve as a side dish.
    Yield: About 50-60 kreplach depending on  size.

Photo: courtesy Joy of Kosher

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Southern Fried Chicken

Almost every country has a fried chicken dish. But, in America, it’s southern fried chicken that takes the crown. First of all, why does it have to be southern and why is it called so? For this you have to go to the Scots. They liked frying their chicken rather than boiling and baking the bird like their English counterparts. When the Scots settled in the American south they brought this style of cooking with them. African-American slaves quickly adapted the method to plantation life since they were often allowed to raise their own chickens. This contributed to the dish becoming a traditional southern favorite. Let us note that it did not become popular in the North until well into the 19th century. Today it is ubiquitous all over the U.S. My mother would make her own version of it in our Spanish Harlem neighborhood. And  that is the recipe given below. With an ice cold beer or a bottle of pinot noir, nothing could be better.
SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN

 

1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into pieces
4 cups water
3 teaspoons salt
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon paprika
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
2 eggs
3 cups light cream or half-and-half
2 cups vegetable oil
1. Wash chicken pieces; then soak chicken in water and salt for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator.
2. In a large shallow dish, mix together the flour, salt, paprika, oregano, garlic powder, and pepper. In a separate bowl, mix eggs and cream.
3. Dredge chicken pieces in cream mixture, then in the seasoned flour until well coated.
4. Heat the oil in a large heavy frying pan or skillet (I prefer cast iron) until it’s at least 360 degrees F.
Place the chicken in the pan, trying not to crowd the pieces. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Check the chicken. When it’s golden brown, turn pieces, cover and cook for the next 5 minutes.
5. Remove cover and cook uncovered, turning occasionally, until cooked through (about another 20 minutes). Watch carefully to make sure the pieces don’t get too dark. If it’s frying too fast, reduce heat slightly. The key to this is to cover the pieces at the beginning to start the cooking process inside the chicken. Then uncover during the last part of the cooking time to get a nice and crispy golden brown finish.
     Yield: 4 servings.
 
NOTE:  These days, some prefer to place the seasoned flour inside a gallon ziplock bag, then coat the chicken in the bag a few pieces at a time. Use whatever method suits best or is more convenient.
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